^^^^^SOOOO sexy! I'll kill for a set of those. Anybody need anyone dead? Those are the fee.

 

Dremel tool

I just took one of the brackets off and sat it on the boss and ground it down until I could get the screws in.

 

I had to modify the hold down brackets a little that came with the first set of rails, otherwise any rail made for a 99-04 gt should come with correct bracketry.

On the update side, I got a new methanol tank for the beast. Didn't like the plastic gas can. Got a proper RCI 1 gallon tank with a proper locking cap and filler foam. Gotta make brackets but that's cool and easy to do.


That should make the interior look a LOT more professional and take care of a nagging safety concern about the tank being in the cabin. The top actually has 2 -6AN inputs, one has a rollover valve built in. I'll just cap the other or run a clear line between it and one of the bottom outlets to give me a fill level indicator.

 

hi red. i have an 03 cobra and would love to install an aluminum 5.4 but keep my eaton or maybe even go twin screw. could i do it and keep my hood or even use the yak cobra r hood?

 

An Aluminum 5.4 block will be expen$$ive! The only one availlable right now is the block from the FordGT, and it is a dry sump setup. You would have to get it modified for an internal sump. The only other possibility is to wait until the 2011 Shelby's become available. They will be using an AL block. I would not expect those to come cheap either. As far as keeping your Eaton, it can be done... with adapter plates as an intermediary. Just remember you will also have to upgrade all the internals of the 5.4 just like they are in your 4.6...

IMHO it is not worth the effort. The S/C '03 & '04 Cobras are a real potent combination as they are, and respond real well to mods. I'd suggest upgrading to a KB twin screw before I'd ever look at putting a 5.4 in that car. That short block has been proven very strong and the internals are good for 8-900 hp.

 

Depending on if you need the car as a DD and can't have it down for long here's my suggestion:

Grab a navi front cover and take your pulley bridge and verify that it'll bolt up. If not you're stuck and would have to do a centrifugal or turbo or nitrous motor (note a NA 5.4 4v is pretty damned fast already). I'm fairly certain that the front cover will bolt up but not 100%. Once you've got that sealed up you can proceed to grabbing a built short block (MMR, or whoever). Call up Maximum Motorsports and ask for their K-member spacers, I'd do 1/2". .75" is available but changes other things that aren't always easy to deal with. You'll probably need a 00'R or 2.5" cowl hood. The termy hood is really tight to begin with and I don't think it'll clear. Use your stock oil pan and pump and pickup tube. Dipstick routing will be a little bit of a bitch. Bend it. Headers are available from FTP afaik. Check with myillwillinc on that. You'll need intake adapter plates for a 4v from Reichard racing or GT500 heads and the supercharger setup from that (which BTW negates the pulley bridge entirely). In the case of using GT500 components, you'll do better to get a complete motor with blower and then have the rods upgraded to H-beams or better I beams. GT500 rods are spindly as hell.

As for aluminum, like we've covered extremely expensive. The block is 3500 bucks plus machining for aluminum. The iron block is only going to be 20lbs heavier than your existing one. If you've got the bucks, it's actually pretty easy but at that point I'd do an MMR 5.3L stroker (built on a BIG BORE aluminum block from FRPP) and you're done under a stock hood with a stock height block. The built stroker short block is 8 grand from MMR. Worth it when you consider the costs of the other ways.

Actually... for a 5.4 terminator, the MMR 5.3L stroker is the only way I'd go. It's like having a 4.6 with the personality of a 5.4 and the stomp-*** of a terminator. **** yeah... got me excited for a second.

 

or instead of the 3500 for an aluminum block spend 2900 on the mmr 5.8 mod block. think of the hell fast capabilities you'd have......

 

I used auto trans. Worked great.

 

i thought ford racing made an aluminum 5.4 that is machined and thus would fit mustangs. i also thought that the iron 5.4 was like 239lbs and the iron 4.6 in the 160 to 170 range. the aluminum 5.4 is 110. so its lighter just as strong and isnt maxed out like a bored 4.6. i woulnt mind getting a big bore aluminum 5.8 . but all in all, thanks for the reply. you guys are pioners when it comes to the modular 5.4

 

i just like the idea of not having to put an engine to the edge to attain my goals. putting 600 lbs of torque in a 4.6 is putting that engine and supercharger to it limits while in a 5.4 its just getting started and at less boost to boot.

 

5.3 MMR stroker or an iron 5.4. I'd do the 5.3 if you got the dough but if not, I'd probably stroke your existing setup to a 5.0... it'll really be quite a lot gruntier no matter what with more displacement.

 

I'm sure the answer is yes.. But I must ask first.. 8 bolt flex plate from any year truck outta work for my 5.4 2002 f250 to marry up to my auto trans in my 98.. correct?
Is there any difference in years? Weight etc..

 

not sure but as far as trucks are concerned I'm pretty sure they all used the same flexplate and TC. the TC mating is going to be the hitch in all probability.

 

For your auto tranny.. what did you use for a flex plate?

 

The flexplate on my van 5.4 had a larger bolt pattern than my Mustang and needed to be swapped.

 

Interesting ... The same was I make sense of swapping a 5.4 in too.

 

Updates:

I STARTED THE CAR! 4 times. The tune on it is for 30# injectors and there are 42's on it so it goes to about 4K rpm right off the bat and I only ran it for a couple seconds each time. Needless to say it's terribly loud and sounds so ****** good. no fuel system leaks, only a couple minor leaks in the intercooler lines. Got the intercooler pump pumping away. The leaks prevented the pump from priming properly but after I fixed those it went all gangbusters. The methanol system is tuned to come on at 30% throttle and 20% pump speed and the curve is set so it goes on full by 70% throttle.

new methanol tank installed. Need a few fittings to change from the old tank side SAE fittings that the kit came with to stainless steel AN fittings.


Cleaned up the wiring more. This is just about the final level. I'm going to try and get the rear seat delete put in today.


A little wider view of the back seat area. the rear seat delete needs to be cut to clear the battery box and the methanol kit controls.


general back seat-ness


and the engine looking all engine-y. **** it's a strong motor. You can see my cobalt ss in the background.

 

very nice! so hows it sound with the longtubes? they are next on my list

 

check my web page.. there's vids there. Audio is shitty but you'll get the idea. Longtubes sound awesome especially compared to the shorties. Lots more grumble and quite a bit louder. My turndowns are causing quite a lot of resonance against the ground while idling but when the car's moving it sounds like an explosion coming at you.

www.54stangs.com

Just put the last order into summit. Got 4 gallons of boost juice, blower belt and some fittings I need to finish the new methanol tank install. All I have left to do is the fuel pump which I'm not really looking forward to.

Russel... favor payback time.

 

question looking to know what scalars to play with to get my 5.4 running better. It is real rough on idle almost like it is skipping and it seems to be running rich. I have a tweecer but i dont want to do the wrong thing and mess it all up any help would be great

 

PM'd. FWIW, the injector delay and perhaps a little bit more timing in the borderline table should help that from what I'm reading and remembering. I haven't tuned a car in a while so I had to read up on it from my SCT materials. Good thing I kept the book.

 

I used my stock one. I found out when I went to put it together that the bolt pattern for the torque converter was different. I found out after looking at it a while that the other patterns are there, they're just not drilled out full size. I used a step bit and enlarged the existing holes to the proper size. Worked perfect.

 

heres my progress done with the forged motor parts!! waiting on my heads to come in from modular head shop.in the process of sending my supercharger off to get polished then sending it to steigmeier for a stage 5 port polish job then im done with the forged beast,time to work on my return style fuel system

 

damn that pile of parts brings me back a couple years. Good stuff. My latest parts shipment should be here tonight. Saved up a bunch of summit thank-you-credits and got 100 bucks of stuff for 40.

I'll have all that crap installed this weekend and start working up a base tune for it. I still need to put the IC pump in a bracket though.

the12fast, can you shoot me a pic of your pump bracket if you have a pic handy?

 

.

 

R3D, I used a 2 1/2" exhaust band type clamp and a piece of aluminum angle to fabricate mine. I put a piece of foam tape around the body of the pump to isolate noise and it turned out pretty nice. I'll see if I can locate the pic. Nope, can't find it. Maybe I can take another.

 

heres what i came up with only 5 bucks



and here a pic of the factory ic pump bracket,i swapped a 2003 cobra motor in my friends 03 gt and he bought the factory bracket,think it was 35 bucks but mine is mounted in the same area




but between my lightning swap and swapping the 03 cobra motor swap i have plenty of pics of just about anything pertaining to either swap so if any pics would be helpful just let me know

 

Ignore the rust! LOL

 

The above pic is with the camera facing up towards bottom of the right headlight. The inner fender is broken on the front so it allowed better access for the pic. I think I have less than $10 and less than 1/2 hr fab time in this. I drilled the angle to accept the bolts from the clamp, then used self tappers to attach the angle to the framerail. Then it is just a matter of bolting up.

 

Killer... thanks guys.