i didn't put them on FTP did so i don't know how hard it is to install. i just wanna see some dyno #'s

 

As far as I am concerned R3DN3CK ... with the way you and others did such a great job with this thread I'd say you got the right to start any other type of thread you damn well please. I don't think any of them will be anything but a big benefit for a whole lot of gearheads like us for years and years to come.

THANKS !!!

 

craigslist link:
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/1640820147.html

this is what he wrote me when i asked about the engine:

This motor was removed at 70,000 miles droped a valve " ford claims due to aftermarket oil filter" lol... So it comes complete with both heads and cams but #3 cylender valve broke and piston has a hole in it but cyl walls are fine. So this motor needs one piston and head repair or one driver side head, all else is good.

2004 5.4 3 valve.i asked if he would take $200 for all of it so we will see what he says. even if he wants $400-$500, yall think its a deal? just get a new piston and stainless valve and be done.... is there a problem with it being a truck engine? right now i have a 4.6 2 valve so none of my mustang stuff will work. will my ecu be able to handle this engine or am i looking for a f150 ecu? pros vs. cons lol....

 

steer clear IMO. 3v is a different animal. You'll need to add cam phaser lockouts and a cable-actuated throttle body + adapter plate and there's still NO INTAKE AVAILABLE FOR 3V.

If you're only using it for the block, then it's down to the motor mount difference which I'm not really at all familiar with. I'd stick with a 03 or earlier block and 2v heads. 3v just isnt' there yet.

 

logan motorsports make a kit so u can use a 03/04 tb and the phase locks arent expensive and i dont need an intake if i just use the intake that is on there along with the heads and cams. i will still get 300hp and 365tq even running on my stock ecu. so i dont really see a reason not to go 3v just for the fact of getting higher flowing heads... or am i wrong. wonder what the power curve looks like since its a truck engine.

just wondering on a side not. since i have a 99 gt engine right now that is a windsor, will my heads and intake bolt up to a romeo block? if not i have to look for a <01 block then correct?

 

i could be wrong with this since im not super up to date with the 3 valves. i bet the heads and cams are the same as the 4.6 3 valve...just like the 2 valves are. i would also think the truck intake would not be the best just like they arent for the 2 valve...do they have adapter places for the 3 valve?

 

Ford Motorsport offers a 3-V upgrade package in their catalog for the 4.6 that I think includes hotter cams, heads, and an improved intake manifold. The intake is plastic and I HATE plastic intakes.

I think C & L now offers an aluminum 3-V performance intake for the 4.6, but of course you'd have to fab some adapter plates for the 5.4 to use it. I don't know if anyone offers the plates yet or not.

Thanks to this thread; we all know that adapter plates will get you going they are usually NOT the same performers as a proper intake manifold designed specifically for the 5.4 engine.

Other than the above information I don't know much to add that might help you regarding the 3-V engine.

 

no its not the same performers but there is no aftermarket 5.4 3 valve intake manifold...but u gotta do what u gotta do.

if adapter plates were made someone could probably make some money off of them.

 

the truck intake for 3v has shown itself to be a less than stellar performer.

I would expect a proper intake before adapter plates. Since it's basically just the runner outlets and a couple minor other details the new intake the MHS is helping develop could possibly quite easily be adapted. That'd actually use the 3v head flow properly too.

and yes, windsor heads bolt right up to romeo blocks. otherwise, yeah, there's little reason not to do 3v if you're prepared to live with the lack of intake options, limited cam options (for the time being), and insane potential. I'd like to see c&l's 3v intake on some adapter plates to see how the design works on the bigger inch motor. They could just widen it and have a workable entry level 3v intake for 5.4's.

 

Don't buy that. I have a considerably better deal for you, will expand later when I have more time...

 

bought a 78mm BBK TB/Plenum and a set of 3.5" CAI piping and got a set of CPR billet fuel rails. Still need some 30lbs injectors and an alternator pulley.

Just waiting for HPS to get the next shipment of intakes in and it'll be running again.

 

Have time now... I have an '05 3v with 27k miles on it and a spun bearing. Haven't finished lifting it out yet, but odds are very good you could get by with just putting fresh bearings in it. Already has Livernois VCT lockouts installed. Also has the cam trigger wheels and timing modified for 2v computer use (theres about ~10 degrees of difference between 2v and 3v trigger location). The intake has the IMRC butterflies removed, and it has the Logan header adapter plates installed so 2v headers will bolt up. I'm planning on putting it up for $500 after I get it out. I also have a fuel system with billet rails, regulator, and lines with brackets made up to bolt onto the 3v intake. It has fittings that mate with the stock feed/return lines. Its set up right now for my F150 to come in on the drivers side, but the pieces could easily be reconfigured if necessary. $300 for fuel system. The intake opening for the t.b. is an excellent match for a Mustang plenum, it would be pretty simple to make a plate to adapt the bolt patterns and just use a Mustang plenum pointed sideways so things like the throttle cable will fall right into place.

Here's a pic with a Mustang plenum on top pointed forward (was considering using a Mustang plenum in my truck)....

http://www.f150online.com/forums/mem...ull-engine.jpg

Pic of the engine and fuel system....

http://www.f150online.com/forums/mem...l-system-1.jpg

In regards to all the intake talk, no, of course the 3v 5.4 stock intake isn't a performance piece. It is, however, significantly better than a stock 5.4 2v intake. My 2v had a hp peak around 4350 rpm if I remember correctly and falls off fast. A 3v 5.4 peaks over 5000 and doesn't lose much above that. Just doing a direct swap with the same supporting mods I was expecting to see around ~70rwhp more at 5800 with a 3v over my old 2v that had mildly ported heads (both running a stock truck intake). Cams? There are at least 20 grinds available and I talked to Ed Curtis at one time about some custom grinds that would have been $600. Cams are not an issue.

 

that looks like one hell of a deal!

 

it is.

Got my fuel rails. They're not what I thought... turns out they're all -8 and not -6 like i thought. Good thing I have the adapter fitting.

EDIT: Otherwise, CPR fuel rails are beautiful so far.

 

im hoping to have your old ones soon...cant wait to see those bad boys.

 

They should arrive today or tomorrow. Betting tomorrow.

 

Ok, I'm new here cause I am usually on another board, but the 5.4 info here is astounding. Ive got a few questions.

First off, I have a '99 GT car that spun a rod bearing, therefore I am replacing the motor. I bought a '99 5.4L with 82k miles, which after checking it when it came in I found that it is unfortunately a non-PI motor, but it is something I will have to work with. I'm in the process of preparing the 4.6 to be yanked out and swapped. Ive read this thread pretty religiously, as well as the 5.4 write up thread, but I still have some more unanswered questions.

First off, am I going to need a starter for a 5.4? Also will my flywheel and clutch on my 4.6 (both are in good shape) work on my 5.4?

Second, I was pretty disappointed to see the NPI motor, but some research seems to show that its not that much of a difference. Should i be concerned about being disappointed? Personally I'd be happy if the 5.4 ran just the slightest bit better than my 4.6 (9.0 1/8th mile ride). I bought it more for a cool replacement engine than I did for an upgrade overall. The spun rod bearing kind of caught me off guard so I kind of had to pull all this money outta my *** lol. Luckily i got the engine (listed as a 99, which it is but has a late 98 date on it) through a friend that owns a shop and had it shipped here for right at 1000. When I discovered it was nonPI I called and quoted them the prices of materials necessary for me to swap on my PI heads and they were kind enough to reimburse me 400 bucks, so I dont have much in this low mileage motor, thankfully.

Last question. For curiosity's sake, Has anyone had any experience running it with the truck intake? I know its not the best intake available for our use by any means but I would just like some real world experience with it. I'm all about performance as well, but if I can use the truck intake to get it back on the road sooner for now, I may do that, because I still have to buy a tuner... ugh. On top of that I gotta admit the truck intake would look kinda cool in a mustang, the way it comes up and the throttlebody faces forward.

THANKS!!!

 

No. Your 4.6 starter bolts right up.

Maybe. If your existing crank is 8 bolt it'll all bolt up, otherwise you'll need an 8 bolt flywheel for your clutch size. I'm betting you'll be ok. AFAIK most 99-00 cars have 8-bolt. If not, you can get a new flywheel for <100 bucks. I got one for 50 bones from D&D transmissions.

NPI is far from optimal. You need PI heads on that motor to let it breathe properly. Do the head swap. It's not hard and it'll pay off HUGE on the top and bottom ends of the tach.

That's plenty to do a top notch head swap. Pull the heads off your 4.6 and they'll bolt right up. Use stock ford MLS HG's and pop for a set of ARP head bolts or studs if you ever plan to pop the top again.

The issue is a total *** lack of hood clearance, fuel rails (your engine is returnless, the 5.4 rails are return style) and truck-y power curve. Honestly if you can't swing either the wait or the expense of the HPS intake (700 bucks and you're gunna wait about a month) just yet, then get some used intake adapter plates and use your stock mustang intake.

Definitely get a handheld tuner. Call up Rick at Amazon Racing for a tune (125 bones). He did my baseline tune and it was really good.

 

Ok, thanks for the help. I was just curious on the truck intake. Getting intake adapters isnt a problem. The problem with the headswap right now is that the cost of the tuner alone is going to kill me, and I really dont want to deal with the cost and trouble of a headswap at the moment. I figure with the PI intake mani then I should be ok with the performance til the extra coin comes available down the road. Altho they are known to be weaker cars, 94-98 Stangs dealt with NPI heads so I can handle them for the time being.

If my '86 5.0 car wasnt begging for change too I'd have my '99 together a lot faster!

 

the issue with the heads is the gross port mismatch. Adapter plates only make it worse since there's a minor mismatch there too.

You have a set of free PI heads, or I betcha you can find some for 50 bucks near you. Don't make us get all medieval on you. The head gaskets are the expensive part at about 100 bucks. Stock ford head bolts are cheap compared to ARP studs/bolts. You have the heads so buy the gaskets and bolts and as long as you're using the stock cams and stock injectors and your stock maf then your ECU will run the motor just fine till you can bang up the extra bread for the tuner. At least you'll have it done so you don't bone yourself.

If you absolutely positively have to deal with the NPI heads, then use the intake that came with the NPI motor, and you may have to stretch your fuel rail crossover and chop a hole in your hood and there may be issues with the throttle cable length, and various vacuum lines. It'll stack up the costs because the mustang wasn't ever intended to use that intake setup. That's what makes the lightning supercharger such a bitch (I just went through that)

I'm not trying to be a negative nancy but I don't want you getting a surprise and being boned because of it. Keep them questions coming and we'll do what we can to be helpful.

 

Yea, I heard about the port mismatch issue with non PI heads to the PI intake adapters.

I just really didnt want to have to dig into the heads and timing chain on this thing. Never worked on a mod motor before, little intimidated by it til I get it apart and see how it all ticks.

I appreciate the quick answers. you've been a big help already!

Here's the '99 awating some progress.

 

welcome to the fun VegasGT. nice looking car there. please please please do the pi heads. not only would you have the bigger engine but a compression bump as well.

don't be intimidated. if u run into trouble you will get help here. i have never put on a blower before and i am sure mine is a bitch compared to a vortech or something but any time i am stuck and have a question the guys are here to help.

 

is that your own place with the lift in the pic. if so i am stupid jealous and if not...then i am just stupid.

 

Haha thanks, I am more than likely gna tackle the headswap.

And that garage is my uncles, my garage is geared more toward paint and body. My uncle just put that lift in a few months ago. Its a VERY nice place to work. Figured the pony car would be right at home!

 

Hey red and any other L swappers. I tried to start my car last night after the L swap. It acts like it isn't getting enough fuel. It stumbles but WILL not do anything more. I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet but will tonight. If i hit it with a little ether, it will fire for a second and then die. Then back to the stumble. I forgot about the programming with the SCT (42#ers in it). I tried to adjust the settings and the SCT I have will only go up to 30#ers. I set it to the L MAF and 30 #ers. IT seems like it should start with those settings. Yeah, it will probably run like crap but..........Not sure what to do about the injector size setting. Can a custom program fix this?? Not sure what to do and I need to getting it running ASAP! Help!

 

When I fired mine without the blower spinning (vacuum mode) I was moving from an 80mm stock maf to a 90mm L maf and from 30's to 42's. It barely started and then when it did ran up to 4000 rpm and then died right away.

A custom program will definitely fix it if it's just a tuning issue and there's no mechanical/electrical issue backing it. Call up Rick at Amazon Racing and have him zip you one out. You'll have it within hours and it'll run right off the top.

Do me a favor, check your fuel pressure. If you don't have any, treat that issue. Make sure you have the ground from the driver side rear of the engine harness attached to something. Make sure your crank position sensor is plugged in. Make sure the cam position sensor is plugged in. Make sure the MAF is plugged in and that you have solid connections on all the wire extensions. I'll just assume that it was a running 5.4 before you put the blower (don't remember) on to eliminate some related but deeper possible issues. Make sure that you didn't trip the fuel shutoff either. post pic of engine bay, a good pic so I can take a look.

Oh, and the heads and timing on these is not hard. The chains are stupid easy, everything that matters is keyed and a little dab of paint here and there during the teardown process makes it a snap to reassemble. Besides, you should inspect and if needed replace the timing chain guides, arms and tensioners. NOW is the time to know how those are doing.

 

Thanks red. i was hoping to find out a location for a mail order tune. I have the part number 3000. Can I do it with that?? It is the older version but is capable of custom tunes so I think (hope) it'll work. The connections are all good and it was a running 5.4 before. I have fuel pump, not sure if it is enough pressure tho. I installed a cobra dual pump in the GT tank. I will chak pressure tonight. It DOES run (if you wanna call it that) on ether so I have crank sig and CMP sig etc. etc. I'll have to get that tune either way. Thanks. I'll try to get a pic asap.

 

The twin cobra pumps may be the issue... if you don't have big enough wire or if the FPDM is tired and just not pushing enough current to maintain pressure through 2 pumps. In any case, between me and you we'll sauce this thing out pretty quick.

I'd have to look into the how of getting custom tunes on a 3000 series, if you can connect via USB and just load one on it, then that's no problem. It may require you to send your handheld to him which would suck but at least it'd work.

 

red, the FPDM for GT and Cobra is the same part number. It shouldn't draw much at idle and it worked great before, so I highly doubt that is the problem. The cobra pumps were used, so I guess I can't say for sure they are good. i was told they were, of course. Got it off of svt performance. I hope the tune is the only issue. I'll get ahold of Rich today and find out what to do. I'll reset it to stock tonight and bring it to work tomorrow and get ready for the download. I'll also check the KOEO and cranking fuel pressure tonight and LYK. Thanks

 

Red, THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!! Rick called me back. NICE guy!! What a breath of fresh air to talk to someone who is NICE and actually cares!! Talked to hm for about 15 mins. Tune is getting emailed tomorrow!!! LOVIN IT!!!!!!!