View Poll Results: What are your 5.4L swap plans?
Voters: 220. You may not vote on this poll
Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine.
#6991
what all have you done so far?
#6993
you can't really... you can tell what casting it is though by the casting number on it which will tell you during what year-year span it was produced.
You can also tell little things like head design as those changed. PI heads are on 00'+ trucks and 99+ cars, other than that you can look for thick parting lines on the crank to see if it's a 97-98. Otherwise, it's pretty hard to tell without the truck it came out of.
You can also tell little things like head design as those changed. PI heads are on 00'+ trucks and 99+ cars, other than that you can look for thick parting lines on the crank to see if it's a 97-98. Otherwise, it's pretty hard to tell without the truck it came out of.
#6994
asfar as the sullivan intake on the navi, ive conteplated this but the sullivan is useful for high revving motors or high boost applications. ive heard on mulitple accounts that the stock rotating assembly should not really go over 6k, so i was gonna do the same thing as johnnysvt and down the road add a blower.
Last edited by modular2valve; 05-23-2009 at 12:37 PM. Reason: correction on spelling
#6995
Not as of yet. still gathering parts. I have the HPS 5.4 intake, i'm waiting on the Trick Flow 38CC heads to come in. I got an E-mail From Chirs at Modular Depot telling me the Trick Flow is going to ship the heads out on June 15th. So give it a week from that and I should see them about June 25th. after that it's pay down the credit card, then buy the rods, Flat top pistions, (want to run 11:1) get the crank shot pin and polished, have the motor blanced, bored .030 over, custom grind cam...and all the other little stuff I don't feel like listing. needless to say I've only scratched the top of this project seening how the motor isn't the only thing but dropping in a TKO 5 speed aswell.....but i'm still shooting for 12's N/A in a Crown vic.
#6996
asfar as the sullivan intake on the navi, ive conteplated this but the sullivan is useful for high revving motors or high boost applications. ive heard on mulitple accounts that the stock rotating assembly should not really go over 6k, so i was gonna do the same thing as johnnysvt and down the road add a blower.
#6997
ive got my intake pulled off and everything disconnected from the 4.6 its ready to come out, its just a matter of getting time and a buddy the help me guide it out. the only thing i need now are the 5.4 primary chains,btw does anybody have any? also i still need to pull my driveshaft off. i cant break the bolts loose on it. how and what have you guys been using to get yours off with? i cant use a socket without a swivel and i have broken two of those already. any tricks?
#6999
GOOD JOB !!!
remember all you guys that are fixated on numbers:
HP is not a real number. TQ is a real number.
HP is sorta a normalized expression of how much air is moving into and out of the engine. Not necessarily how efficiently it does it nor at what point in the RPM range it does it best.
TQ is a real value. It's a measure of the FORCE being applied to turn the wheel.
Average tq production will tell you how "strong" an engine is over its whole rev range with a very easy to compare value that means something in the real world. It's most easy to discuss tq values that occur before 5250 rpm because people are stuck in HP numbers which are only good for bragging rights.
HP is not a real number. TQ is a real number.
HP is sorta a normalized expression of how much air is moving into and out of the engine. Not necessarily how efficiently it does it nor at what point in the RPM range it does it best.
TQ is a real value. It's a measure of the FORCE being applied to turn the wheel.
Average tq production will tell you how "strong" an engine is over its whole rev range with a very easy to compare value that means something in the real world. It's most easy to discuss tq values that occur before 5250 rpm because people are stuck in HP numbers which are only good for bragging rights.
#7000
ive got my intake pulled off and everything disconnected from the 4.6 its ready to come out, its just a matter of getting time and a buddy the help me guide it out. the only thing i need now are the 5.4 primary chains,btw does anybody have any? also i still need to pull my driveshaft off. i cant break the bolts loose on it. how and what have you guys been using to get yours off with? i cant use a socket without a swivel and i have broken two of those already. any tricks?
#7001
Use Heat on the Steel Flange Nuts
You don't have to get them visibly red-hot but a significant amount of heat that once you set the torch aside you can turn the nut with a wrench EASILY to loosen them while hot. What this does is it both burns-off the Loctitie and expands the nut itself making it easier to loosen it's grip on the threaded end of the bolt.
CAUTION ... BE CAREFUL NOT TO TORCH THE REAR PINION SEAL AND/OR OTHER SIMILIAR RUBBER AND/OR NON-METALLIC PARTS PARTS WHEN DOING THIS !!!!
I hope this helps you out.
#7002
great advice. One of the things I learned at Oil Changers years back was that if it don't want to get loose, then tighten it just a hair and then it'll back off easier. We had to use that method on Toyota diff plugs all the time. You use this method where you can't use heat for one reason or another. BE CAREFUL. This method can and does break off bolts and break tools if you're not paying attention. I have a crack in my eye socket where a 1/2" drive breaker bar broke because I was not being careful.
An impact gun is of course the best method but not always available.
Here's some pics of the L blower... got it painted a little. Playing with color scheme right now... trying to find a good set of colors. LMK what you think.
An impact gun is of course the best method but not always available.
Here's some pics of the L blower... got it painted a little. Playing with color scheme right now... trying to find a good set of colors. LMK what you think.
#7003
but really you shouldnt have any problems. you may need to extend a couple wires on yours since you dont have the 4v harness already in place as i do but its nothing major im sure.
#7007
NICE JOB & COLORS, IMO
great advice. One of the things I learned at Oil Changers years back was that if it don't want to get loose, then tighten it just a hair and then it'll back off easier. We had to use that method on Toyota diff plugs all the time. You use this method where you can't use heat for one reason or another. BE CAREFUL. This method can and does break off bolts and break tools if you're not paying attention. I have a crack in my eye socket where a 1/2" drive breaker bar broke because I was not being careful.
An impact gun is of course the best method but not always available.
Here's some pics of the L blower... got it painted a little. Playing with color scheme right now... trying to find a good set of colors. LMK what you think.
An impact gun is of course the best method but not always available.
Here's some pics of the L blower... got it painted a little. Playing with color scheme right now... trying to find a good set of colors. LMK what you think.
KEEP GOING --- PRESS ON !!!
#7008
Holy chit r3d.. That blower looks great . I say stick with that paint job, as long as other elements of your engine bay will tie into it. BTW, how are you going to handle the hood clearance issue? Cowl, or cut?
#7009
its pretty much been a straight forward swap for me so far. since im not switching to 4v all im doing is changing out the bottom end. the only thing i need for the 5.4 were to have my intake widened, get a 5.4 dohc timing cover, 5.4 primary chains, put my oil pan on the engine, and then the only other thing that needs to be modified is the exhaust. the h-pipe specifically. the passenger side flange needs to have a couple inches added to it iirc. im not even gonna mess with that im just gonna take it to an exhaust shop and tell them to make it work lol. o also when you put your 4.6 pan on the 5.4 youll need to beat the baffles down to clear the crank throw.
but really you shouldnt have any problems. you may need to extend a couple wires on yours since you dont have the 4v harness already in place as i do but its nothing major im sure.
but really you shouldnt have any problems. you may need to extend a couple wires on yours since you dont have the 4v harness already in place as i do but its nothing major im sure.
#7010
u can modify the gt harness to work actually, thats what im doing. im also am retaining my coil packs rather than going c.o.p's so that saves alot of work.
Last edited by modular2valve; 05-24-2009 at 10:03 PM.
#7011
exactly what do u do for both of these things? id guess iac need extended...
#7012
Update:
Looks like I will be sitting out for a bit....Pulled the driver's head and saw nothing but carnage...At least 3 valve snapped, all pistons on that side show evidence of contact, god knows how the other side looks....
Open for suggestions on what needs to be done...
Looks like I will be sitting out for a bit....Pulled the driver's head and saw nothing but carnage...At least 3 valve snapped, all pistons on that side show evidence of contact, god knows how the other side looks....
Open for suggestions on what needs to be done...
#7013
if the contact isn't to bad you can still use the pistons. when i did my first PI swap i put the cams 180 off and they hit the valves hard on startup. they had a couple deep dents but worked fine for a couple years.
#7015
HPS intake has been pulled off and will ship to the new owner later this week. Have to find a box that'll hold it.
Need to do a little touch up work on the blower paint but it's coming together really nicely.
I need to source a few parts... if anyone can help please let me know:
Lightning Alternator
42lbs injectors (have 30's to trade or sell)
intercooler reservoir tank
intercooler pump
water/air FMIC
Need to do a little touch up work on the blower paint but it's coming together really nicely.
I need to source a few parts... if anyone can help please let me know:
Lightning Alternator
42lbs injectors (have 30's to trade or sell)
intercooler reservoir tank
intercooler pump
water/air FMIC
#7017
well r3d i would say your best bet for the water pump is the auto zone or some place like that. tried hunting it down in the forum classifieds but not much luck. i am just gonna get a electric one.
the 42's should be easy to find in the classifieds. i may know someone that has a set but he is offshore for another month and i am sure you could find some by then.
they have the intercooler pump on ebay but it does not comes with the lines etc.
when it comes to the FMIC i bought one for a 03 cobra but the hard to find part is the brackets that hold it. to buy the brackets from ford is like 300 (guesstimate been a lil whie since i looked) dollars and you never find a set used anywhere...you may have to get a lil creative with that one.
did you get some gaskets for the blower yet? if so where are they from?
just curious....what you doing for a fuel system since the lightning engines are return style? i still need to figure that one out.
what type of blue paint is that on the blower....i like it
the 42's should be easy to find in the classifieds. i may know someone that has a set but he is offshore for another month and i am sure you could find some by then.
they have the intercooler pump on ebay but it does not comes with the lines etc.
when it comes to the FMIC i bought one for a 03 cobra but the hard to find part is the brackets that hold it. to buy the brackets from ford is like 300 (guesstimate been a lil whie since i looked) dollars and you never find a set used anywhere...you may have to get a lil creative with that one.
did you get some gaskets for the blower yet? if so where are they from?
just curious....what you doing for a fuel system since the lightning engines are return style? i still need to figure that one out.
what type of blue paint is that on the blower....i like it