i dropped a 225 in-tank pump and 39lbs injectors with the adapters for the old motor and untuned it was rich and happy.

 

Ok. Where would I pick up the blanks from?

 

heres something interesting when it comes to a intake manifold. yes i know the hps is out but still kinda interesting.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/cobra...1%7C240%3A1318

 

Yeah. I came across that listing earlier today.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if the 3 major Cam companies offer billet blanks (Crane, Comp, and Crower). Also, I would look into those three since they do have cams that aren't listed but may do well for your combo (for example, Crower says they got proprietary grinds available if you give them a call).

 

Alright. I'll have to take a look.

 

BTW.. Another dumb question: What's the difference between 2v and 3v valve covers? I've seen a lot of powdercoated VC's available on eBay for 3v engines, but none for 2v's..

 

I got mine through Fox Lake, from Bullet Racing cams, $750

2v's and 3v's use different valve covers, and stock 2v's are plastic so no-go on power coating. There are a couple aftermarket companies but way too expensive, in my opinion.

 

Ah. I don't have the car yet, so I had no idea they were plastic. So the blanks by themselves were $750?? If that's the case, then I'll take the power loss and stick with a set of off the shelf cams.

 

No thats for a set of cams ground to your specs, well close, with whatever lobe profiles they have that are close to what you want.

 

Ah. Well if if Mr. Na does it, it would be free (which would be sweet .) So for the moment I'm just looking for the blanks themselves.

 

If I'm not mistaken, he just means telling you what cam specs to get..
So you'll still need someone to actually grind the cam.

 

LOL. You're probably right My bad.

 

yup
You can get custom grinds from Comp for about $100 more than what the off-the-shelf cams cost. You can tell them the specs or you can let them spec the cams for ya.

 

Even more money to spend

 

you should know by now that HP costs money in logarithmic proportion to how much power you actually want. Custom or off the shelf... you'll be doing a lot better than stock.

 

Ok. So with a custom grind for the 5.6 as close to ideal as possible, to you think I will be able to break 300rwhp? I know the shorties are a limiting factor, but they'll have to do for now.

 

yeah... you should be able to get there if everything else is in place.

 

I think you mean "exponential" ... sure, the limit as x-> infinity for log(x)= infinty, but it takes forever to get there. I'd say the cost/hp is more like x^1.5(or more). sorry thats the engineer in me.

anyway, i started my car yesterday. 5.4dohc with turbo cams and no turbos... yet. built for 800hp and a price tag of 25k.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sr19c3OeQVg

 

no... I meant log but I like the 1.5 exponent better now so i'll go with yours.

lookin good btw. Like seeing that 4v tall deck in there. Is that a sullivan on top of it?

 

so, how much diffrence will turbo cams make over comp stage 3? i know one is made fo turbo and one isn't. but would it be enough of a diff to sell the stage 3's and go with mmr turbo grinds?

 

the turbo grind cams on a n/a setup (I'm told) will cost me about 20 hp. its a relativly mild cam shaft (compaired to stage 3) with extra exaust duration, and about equally shared lift. mine came from SHM, i have an appointment for the dyno tune on Jan5th so i'll have some numbers then.
http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/...m_profiles.pdf


interesting note for mod engine fans out there. Dont know if its already been discussed here, but this could save a lot of time and headache for some. The camshaft timing chain sprokets have been replaced (for 2v & 4v) with a single piece with 2 sprokets on it. This new sprocket is fatter and no longer works with the old reluctor wheel (cam shaft position sensor sprocket) that ford will give you. You need the a different reluctor wheel ford part number: XW1Z-12A227-AC, i didnt ask what that fits but its significantly different. everyone here probably reused the timing stuff, but i replaced all mine and ran into this problem. Hope it helps!

 

damn near ran into it... good tip with the part number.

the big overlap on your 278's will probably cost you some power but you never know. I'll run a sim when I get back into the office. I'd bet the turbo cams will be worth the cost. Besides.. you can sell your 278's for a good nug of scrilla to help cover the cost.

 

since they are brand new with an hour of idle i'm sure i could get 450 for them. hint hint fellow builders....


as for the one piece sprocket, i cracked a timing cover since it is thicker. i was tightning down the cover and didn't notice it was hitting and it cracked. so i went back to the factory ones to fix it.

 

haha, my reluctor wheel was left off, and the harmonic balancer was drove into the timing cover, and it wasnt caught until after enough turnover to prime the oil pump.... ooops

 

How about plotting hp vs. money on a log scale? Fair trade?

 

Wonder how well those stage 3's would work with 8-10 lbs of procharger boost hmmmmm

 

lots better than they'd do with a turbo in all probability. Turbos are very sensitive to cam timing and long overlaps. A little shorter overlap would probably be better on a blower motor but still the increased duration and lift are going to help a bunch over stock cams.

 

purple=cost of HP (naturally aspirated)
red=cost of HP (power adder)
green=hp (cubic inches [assumes overall flow capacity in line with CID and HP peak @ >=5250rpm])
axis(y)=cost x $10000
axis(x)=HPx100

 

well i don't really want to pull cams out again. but if anyone here wants to make a offer i'll consider pulling them one more to go with turbo cams.....