i thought the 2 top bolts were a pain in the ***... or arent they???...

 

With some patience and a lot of extensions it isn'T

 

When pulling the engine, you will want to remove the intake manifold anyway to be able to hook up the chains. When you do that, the upper two bolts on the trans bellhousing are easily accessible. I actually use those two points to attach my chains for pulling the engine out.

 

Ive got a p/p kit coming i dont plan on porting but what can i polish? and can i just remove the nubs by intake valves? and ive heard somewhere u can polish on intake runners of heads except for the floor where the injector sprays true or no?

thanks guys

 

You NEVER polish the intake. It is imperative that you have the right roughness not only to help keep the fuel atomized but also to produce an adequate boundary layer to reduce friction. However, you DO want to polish the combustion chamber and exhaust port to prevent carbon build-up and to help keep the heat in.

 

fine... bassman beat me to it.

 

ok thanks guys big help polish chamber polish exhaust dont touch intake ;> good to go thanks now about those nubs by intake valves no word on those ;> sad part...gota take springs back out rofl cause i got ahead of myself and started putting them in rofl. what do you guys recommend for a compressor ive got a offset jaw works great for disassembly absolutely horrible for reassembly lol or how do you put your keepers in its took me 4 hrs to do 12 valve springs....putting them with my fingers and allen wrenches as pushing tools cause my hands are a lil to big for the retarded ford engineered close to cam holder area heh designer must have some small *** hands

 

Valve spring tool
Here is a pic of the tool I used. This is made special by OTC Tools for the 4.6l-5.4l Modular heads.

If you are going to be working on modular heads, this tool is a must have. Also look for some head stands. Though not needed to use this tool , but makes the job eaisier.

 

ok. thought that might be the case. thats why i was asking earlier what all to removed from the motor beforehand. anything else???

 

oh damn never saw onea those dealership might have one on hand i can borrow? small town everyone knows everyone so im sure i could borrow if they have one

and quicksilver just remove intake...all trans bolts if taking out seperate ;> all wiring and motor mounts radiator hell get jiggy wit it might as well pull the whole front cowl off make it really damn easy lol

 

probably a good idea. keep em coming guys.

 

Thank you very much for posting this information.

 

so im going up to alpena tommorow to work on my 5.4. is there anything i can do to the engine to make it run better? my dad was saying things like drilling channels for oil to run through or something.....at least for his engine. are there anything small tricks that are like that on the 5.4?

 

nope... leave it alone. Do the cooling mod on the rear of the intake and other than that, there's not much optimizing to be done.

 

Cooling MOD ... hhmmmmmm ... Sounds like a great idea. Can you post the link to the part of the thread(s) where that has been previously discussed ... (or simply explain what that MOD is) ???

Unfortunately I missed that post in this thread.

THANKS !!!

 

Well I finally read through this entire thread (took me a few weeks), and decided that I am going to do the 5.4 2v swap. I already swapped out my engine once a few years ago here in my garage, so I pretty much have the tools and an idea of what it is going to take. However, I'm sure I will still have many questions for you guys that have already done the 5.4 swap. First off, I have a '96 GT and have come across a complete '97 Expedition motor for $300. What do you guys think? From what I gather, there shouldn’t be a problem with this years motor, right? I know it doesn’t have the PI heads, but I will be purchasing aftermarket ones anyways. Thanks in advance for your guys’ opinion.

 

itll also have a forged crank already ;>

 

Just make sure it is a 5.4 and not a 4.6, since they came with both. But yeah other than heads, a '97 is fine. It's got the timing cover you'll need and a forged crank.

 

cooling mod is basically tapping a line from the passenger side rear of the intake and running it to the driver side rear. The net effect is to enhance cooling of the rearmost cylinders on the driver side.

Horse: it'll do just right. Swap some better heads on it and have fun. The standard admonishment to consider building the bottom end at this point would seem appropriate. There's nothing like knowing your pistons and rods can handle whatever nutty thing you're about to throw at them.

 

new pics.

Started porting the lower manifold for a match to the heads. My heads match the gasket but you can see that the lower does not. Mc-Fix0rnated that.



Makes for a good lump of shavings left over. Good for making firecrackers later.


Set the whole thing in the valley a bit at a time to do some test fitting and figure out how to re-route basically every single hose and tube under the hood. Also found out my braided line is missing. Grrrr..
Anyway, here's some teasers. I have the pulley bridge on now too (not shown) but that's just for mock-up as well. It's all coming off tomorrow again.

 

Hey guys I'm new to the forum my name is ben im from central ca and i have a 98 gt I've read almost all of this thread I've also read some of your other posts r3d anyway I've had my 5.4 for a while but am just now getting ready to install it (my 4.6l blew a spark plug out of the head) anyway I have 99 5.4 rebuilt by ford with only about 4k on it I got a smokin deal from a guy who's grandson rolled the van it was in shortly after it was installed I got the motor tranny and wiring harness complete for 400 bucks. I have ported and polished pi heads comp cams 278s c&l upper plenum accufab 75 mm tb c&l intake 42 lb injectors lightning maf pp adapter plates ported to match high volume oil pump bassani x pipe flowmaster super 40's spec 11" flywheel fidanza clutch 3.73 s and a nitrous kit that i havent decided if I'm gonna install I'm gonna degree the cams sometime this week and drop the motor in do you guys have any advice for me I'd really appreciate the input I'm familiar with modular motors but this will be my first 5.4 swap you guys have been a big part in making the decision to do this swap so I will all your advise into consideration thanksin advance guys

 

Also I forgot to mention I have a sct x cal 3 and dyno time ready as well my tuner is gonna put a base tune in so I can drive around meanwhile the gears get broken in once that's done we'll strap her to the dyno and see what she does any guesses?

 

Oh and one more thing the adaptor plates are actually from MMR but I think pro pods makes them for them

 

That looks good. LUV IT !!!

 

I'd say get the 97 engine out of the Explorer !!! If nothing else, you can always resell the parts to somebody on here or on E-bay. Sounds like a real cool deal for $300.00. I say get EVERY part off the donor vehicle that you can, even if at first it seems like you wont need them.

I'd say go for the swap; having already accomplished an engine change on the same car you're miles ahead of lots of other folks that are chomping at the bit to do the same thing.

 

degree the cams or risk losing out on 30hp you could just as easily have. I think if you retard them a few degrees you'll pick up some top end. Your tall gears and that setup will make for a nicer ride.

If your flywheel is 8 bolt then you're in good shape. If not you'll have to replace it with an 8 bolt. I have a new replacement friction surface for your flywheel if you need one. Never used it on my swap.

Get every part you can for the engine and tranny. I would seriously SERIOUSLY consider dropping the adapter plates on ebay and grabbing up a HPS intake. It's gunna be worth easily 20hp over over a PI intake on adapter plates and it'll make getting a good street tune on the car TONS easier.

Glad to have you with us!

 

Does anyone have a set of FRPP shortys they would be willing to sell?

 

The motor i picked up also has the pullies on it still... Do i still need to swap mine 4.6 pullies over or use whats on it???

 

hey guys, just joined this forum, interested in doing the 5.4 swap in my mustang.I bought a 5.4 Triton engine with less than 2000 miles. my problem right now is the intake, since the heads are NPI,i have several ideas, either the reichard racing or the mmr adapter plates with the hps pi to npi adapters, or is that too many adapters? haha.I could also go with the hps pi to npi adapters with the 5.4 hps hardball'r right?

My other question is, can i bolt the 5.4 to a t56 from an 03 cobra? and can i bolt that up to a 97 mustang gt? thanks for all your help, im kinda lost on which way to go right now. oh, and the t56 is because i dont want to shred my current trans mission

 

Why not just swap to PI heads? And yes it will bolt up fine to your car and to the T56, with the appropriate clutch.