killer.

 

updated pic of my engine bay.

 

looks good everybody is making good progress.

i just got my heads back from being cleaned and checked over now gettin ready to go put them on and the motor will be complete except for timing stuff.

one of the last problems that i have is the timing cover. my tensioner doesnt fit right and i dont have all the pullies that the cover has bosses for. i know i dont need them though. i know theres a couple guys on here that have done navi swaps i was wondering if you had pics of the front of the engine and how you routed your belt and what size belt to use

 

looking sweet will, so whats up with the 4 valve intake on the 2 valve? who does that work? never seen that one before

 

just talked to terry over at street lethal and he didnt sound very optimistic towards the 00 cobra r hood fitting. he said he used a 4" cowl hood on his. from what he told me its gonna be the front of the engine that will pose the problem moreso than the back.

 

im planning on a 5.4 2v build and r3d told me to upgrade the rods, bearings and pistons for the swap. which should i go with? this will be a daily driver and will not add FI for a very long time lol. basically keeping it n/a. im looking for a lot more torque than what the 4.6 can give me .

 

rods from The Mustang Depot, best buy in the biz.

pistons, TMD has good deals on those too. Look for 2618 aluminum. If you're not going to see boost or nitrous for a long time then don't bother upgrading the pistons if the cylinder bores don't need cut. If you're going to do a small overbore (.020 is nice) then go ahead and pop for the upgrade to forged slugs.

bearings: Federal Mogul/Speed Pro offer H-series bearings, Clevite-77 has H-series bearings as well. Either are a good choice.

 

the12fast4u - it's a lightning lower and a cobra upper with a adapter mating them......

 

how do i know if i need an overbore? which of those bearings are cheaper lol.

 

thats badass very nice

 

here is a list of what im pretty sure i need so far, please add, take away or make suggestions as far as brands and where do get them:

97-04 f150 or expedition block
HPS intake manifold
upgraded rods
upgraded pistons
upgraded bearings
all new gaskets
cobra brake system
upgraded fuel pump
ARP bolts
windage tray
timing cover
BBK 78mm intake combo
upgraded injectors

thanks for the help so far guys

 

sounds like you got it covered pretty much. you will also need to 5.4 timing chains, the 4.6 primary chains are too short.

update on mine: engine is complete and ready to drop in minus timing chains. im scared to put them on yet as i am unsure which way the timing marks on each of the sprockets go and what link of the chain goes on what mark. i dont plan on degreeing the cams just timing it as asked above. thanks in advance for all the help this is the only thing stopping me from having a running car. pics would really help out also

 

what about fuel lines and such? is there a lot of rerouting lines or what?

 

no, there's hardly any rerouting at all. your stocker system might fit, some have some havent. you can either 1) put longer pieces inbetween the rails or 2) upgrade the rails and go with some aftermarket hose.

 

how much hp and tq would say a 99 f150 stock engine, hps intake and my pi heads from the stang make?

 

Hey guys new here! I've been reading for a couple of weeks and finally read through the whole thread! I have been waiting to try the 5.4 swap ever since the 5.0 mag article came out. Think I'm ready for the swap. I've got a 99 Gt with 189,000 miles and motor got too hot when plastic intake cracked/radiator leaked. I just need to decide what I want to do, find a 5.4 or 4.6 to just drop in for now or forged rebuild.

Myillwillinc, I've been looking at your intake setup which is great! You think the 03 Cobra blower top end setup will work with lightning lower intake? I have not researched the dementions but, I would think an adapter plate like yours would need to be fabricated.

 

99 f-150 motor is gona have NPI heads so it will have a bump in compression from like 9.0 to 9.6:1 and with cams should put down 310=320hp 320-350tq and almost keeps its peak tq till redline if you can flow the air beleive me mines untunned with stage 2 cams nothing else and adapter plates and PI intake and it runs alot harder then the 4.6 ever thought of running.


guy with timing chains if you have a total of 3 discolored links on each chain the end with 2 discolored should go like this with the timing marks on cogs [link]^tooth[link] and on the bottom 1 discolored link should go [^] with the ^ being the tooth i dont have my stage 2 cms cams degreed and no problems im sure someone will have a picture with what im describing

i got my whole timing kit minus the cam sprockets for 200$ from rock auto and it had 3 total black links that is how i set my timing

 

If you are going to tackle the rebuild yourself, wait on "upgrading the pistons" although I do recomend getting "new" pistons, just not "upgrading them". The stock pistons are just fine for any level of N/A. Look for a set of NEW stock pistons. DSS always has a set for sale on ebay and they include all the rings, pins, and locks!! Usually for about $100! Stock PI.
Maybe you want more compression? Look for stock "flat top" Cobra/Mach 1 pistons.
And if you are going to bore the engine and want more compression, their are usually sellers with "Speed Pro" oversized pistons on ebay, selling cheap. I picked up a set of flat top .020" over for $80 with the rings and pin locks.!
Coast High Performance sells piston for the 5.4l to get the absoltute highest compression,
check them out!
The windage MAY BE a good idea if you were to make your car a drag racing SCIENCE project. If you are on the cheap, then leave it out to save money.

UPGRADE the bearings! For sure!
UPGRADE the rods! For sure! R3dneck knows a great place for the rods!

ARP hardware is nice! But really not needed for a stock N/A rebuild.

 

liljojo4711

Hey welcome to the board!

 

Here's a joke!

remember when all the BIG 4.6l guys were saying that the 5.4L was a waste.
And how they would always state that the "piston speeds" was to much!


HAHAHAHAHAHAH LOL
Dummies!

 

as for H series bearings there about 156 bucks and worth every penny on summite for clevite-77

 

This is a deal for a stock N/A or very low boost overbore rebuild of .040". I would not recomend an overbore of .040" on the '97-'01 5.4l blocks, but would be ok for the NVH '02-up blocks.
This kit includes rings and pistons! Not a bad deal! Mostly because not alot of people are buying an overbore piston for the 300,000 mile modular engines. Most would just go .010" over. But for the guy looking for N/A "stock compression" HP, I would go with these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...Q5fAccessories

 

I have to sell my set of billet rails since I can't properly adapt them to the lightning setup without a big PITA. JoeyMD is right... some stock lines have fit. If they don't all you have to do is cut off the stock crossover line and buy a bit of fuel hose and a couple clamps to finish the job there. Should not be an issue. You can have my billet rails and a crossover hose that'll fit for 120 shipped. It'll even come with the fitting to connect to your stock fuel supply line.

looking at 250-280rwhp 330-365rwtq. Probably toward the higher sides of those.

03 cobra blower won't work if you want the intercooler to work which it REALLY should on a roots blower. The L blower and the Termy blower are just too different and the intercooler setups are also very different. L blowers are fuggin near free lately though. I'm trying to find a shop willing to fab a low volume run of side inlets for L blowers. Won't stop the hole in the hood but it'll at least look way better. An 03 cobra blower on top of a L midplate&intake would still poke through the hood.

Best advice you could have gotten. www.TheMustangDepot.com is where to go for rods. You can buy the same rods from MMR for 100 bucks more. They have a good deal on Probe pistons too if it's in your budget. Otherwise just use the stock or stock replacement slugs. Your machinist can tell you if you need an overbore.

I seem to recall my plan to do the swap and this thread in particular was initially received with something less than enthusiasm. Thankfully "average power production" means something to some people and the word is out. Lots and lots of new swappers and the more of us there become the easier it is for guys like me, myillwill, Dan and others to get new parts developed and produced to up the ante even more. **** you'd think TFS built their new heads just for us.

I guess all of our combined efforts have paid off.

Welcome to the n00bs. You'll get into the swing of things pretty quick. There are a lot of us in here. Hell you can see most of our cars on youtube.

 

Youtube! I need to post some pics of mine! Maybe when I get it tuned!

The Steen ported NPI heads with PI cams are going to be interesting

 

I'll take those off your hands, kinda wanna get away from said rubber hose and clamps. Happen to have a spare spring-lok fitting too? I need to change it up to return style.

 

oh yeah i remember. everyone said it was a bad idea on all the other forums as well lol.

thanks for all the help. as for bolts, which ones should i get? just stock replacements or what?

R3D --- was about 260hp and 350tq what i can expect with an auto with stock engine, cams and hps intake?

 

Add an 8bolt flywheel if manual...
Windage try not needed but if ur in there and have the extra cash y not
if not going FI upgraded injectors are not needed - but if you want some 24lb mark viii injectors with mark viii 80mm MAF i got them for sale
ARP not needed but nice to have when not FI
timing cover will come with a long block
put new exhaust bolts in...stainless so no rust sticking bolts i used bolts instead of studs with nuts
new passenger side exhaust gasket.
new motor mounts solid or poly solid=more vibration in car
if in cold area put in a new block heater
new timing components chains/guides/tensioners and arms/crank sprocket all these can be had on rockauto.com for 200ish in a cloyes kit
put some cams in to flow more air your choice comp/hi-tech/cushman i personaly went cushman/vt stage 2 n/a cams 600ish bucks
comp beehive springs if you get cams - 200ish
personaly ied put new main bearings in also H series prefered but standard series will work also

 

revised list:

97-04 f150 or expedition
HPS intake manifold
forged i-beam rods
new stock pistons
clevite h rod bearing
king race engine main bearing
all new gaskets
cobra brake system
high flow 255lph fuel pump kit
BBK 78mm intake combo
bullet stage 3 NA cams
comp cams beehive springs
5.4 timing chain kit
stainless exhaust bolts
solid motor mounts

do i need all new bolts or can i reuse the stock bolts?

 

funny thing about the swap is that when i read it in the magazine i knew that was what i wanted. my 4.6 had broke the woodruff key and was sitting for 8 months till i could get a new motor. luck would have it that after reading the article i spoke to a mechanic about it and he had a wrecked 98 f150 with a 80k motor in it. a few(couple dozen) phone calls and emails to dan and the fab shop that made the first set of adapters, i had the last original set heading my way. all the while everyone was saying it wouldn't fit or the computer would not run right, even the ford dealership said it would be a waste since it won't fit in there and the ECU can't run the 5.4 in a 4.6 car. well after it was said and done i cranked her up first time and drove it for a couple hours non stop with no hood on it till i was almost out of gas. the feeling that day was like the first itme girl gives you a hummer and you float around for hours running around telling your buddies all about it. now i have 4 swaps under my belt and countless installs of the engine/trans in my car and hunters car. so i hope everyone on here gets that same feeling i do when they finish thier swap.......





- stopped by FTP earlier, they are shooting for hunters car to make the show/dyno day on sat. his car is on the lift getting the passenger side fitted when i was there.

 

you dont need new exhaust bolts i just recommend it so you dont have rusted ones when it comes time to pull it apart again.