I posted this in my thread on corral too, but I figure you guys will probably be more help.

Trying to piece together my fuel system, decided on a sump with a return line just for the extra room to grow. I'm assuming the walbro 255 LPH inline pump will be plenty to feed my current setup but let me know if I'm wrong, I can always save up and step up to the aeromotive a1000.

Also, can anyone give me an idea of how to setup my return line? I read not to run it back to the sump because of heat issues, so I'm guessing the top of the tank is the best place. I'm thinking I could get a plate made where the original fuel hat went with an AN fitting on it and run my return line to that. I'm still really new to fuel systems so any info I can get would help. Also, I'm guessing I can eliminate the stock wiring stuff for the tank, but still need to use the stock vent lines on the tank.

And with an aftermarket fuel system like this, is there a way to maintain use of the stock fuel gauge? or do I have to figure out some kind of aftermarket gauge?

 

the gauge is fairly easy to deal with. You'll need a level sensor of some sort (check autometer) and that will send a voltage to your gauge. Simple as that. Your stock level sensor will probably do just fine.

Return line, I'd put in the sump. An aviator pump (99+ cars only) would be your best bet and you wouldn't have to change anything or bother with a sumped tank. They're 310LPH IIRC.

Call up Lethal Performance and talk to them about your project. They've got fuel systems nailed for mustangs.

 

Only reason I'm going with the setup I mentioned is because the sump will give me a lot of room to grow. I'm that guy that loves "new" power, but the newness wears off quick. I know in 2 years I'll be swapping for some dished pistons, flipping my headers around and this thing is gonna start whistling. The boss260 had a return style fuel system so I feel like that is something necessary if even that detuned thing needs it. It's just a personal preference thing more than anything else though, I love projects and learning more about what makes this thing tick. I want to be able to say I built every part of this powertrain. Also, my stock fuel line is corroded pretty badly, the car sat for 3 years before I bought it in 06, then when the typical manifold crossover issue happened to me last year, it sat for another 3 months, then this current tear down which has left it sitting going on 6 months now. I just feel more comfortable with a full proof fuel system that will give me tons of room to grow in the future when I need it.

That walbro pump is supposed to support up to 600 hp, does that mean before or after nitrous? I feel like I'd be pusing it on the gas if I have to count that as my power. Running out of fuel is the LAST thing I want to do. I also despise the way the tanks are set up on our cars, with the inline pump, I can change them in a matter of 5 minutes as opposed to wresting the gas tank out of the car again and again to change pumps every time I upgrade something to need more fuel.

I've got everything figured out on how to set up the system now though, I was up late with my typical mid week insomnia and did some research. I'm going to run a -10an feed line > filter>pump>filter , -10an line to firewall > y block > -8an lines to back of each fuel rail > - 8an from front of each rail > aeromotive FPR > from bottom of FPR run -8an return line back to tank either on top somehow or at the sump. Will look super clean and probably take me 2 hours tops to run the lines and have more room to grow than I'll ever need. With this setup. This is also a fairly inexpensive setup, when I do all the work myself aside from welding the sump to the tank. I can get the walbro pumps for $114, which is a bit less than the aviator pump, no more than $100 which brings my total just over what the aviator pump would be. New lines have to be purchased either way, this way I just get better ones than I would have used in the first place. Getting a SS sump and welding it to the tank is going to be the biggest issue. I've seen some sumps that were selling for around $65 but I don't know if they are stainless. I can only imagine it wouldn't cost much to cut some holes in a tanke and weld the sump on.

I may be spending a little more than I need on my fuel system, but you could say that about my entire project so I'm going to do what gives me the best sense of security.

If anyone can point me in the direction of a solid small sump like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-4040/ but in stainless, please post it up.

Sorry about the rambling, but thanks for the listen anyone who was paying attention. Give me some advice on what you may do differently aside from an in tank pump, and if you have any links to sites with fuel components for CHEAP let me know. I'm going to try to get the sump welded up and gas tank reinstalled and get my feed and return lines run so it will be ready when I pick up the pump, filter, fuel rails, and FPR. Just hook them up and run with it.

BTW, R3d did you get that sensor sent to me? I sent you the money.

 

I had to refund that for the moment... I may have to refund your LMAF cost (but you can keep/sell it). The long and short of it appears to be the change from 4 wire to 6 wire. I'm not 100% certain (need you to send pic of the connector and the maf hole without the sensor in it and the sensor probe) but it appears that you're on a 4 wire. We may be able to convert you to 6 wire but I'm not sure. In any case, the 6 wire sensor that I have won't work on 96-01 and IIRC your car falls in there. If not and you are 6 wire and I'm not recalling correctly, then LMK and I'll have the wife send the sensor promptly.

 

Not sure what you want me to send you as far as pics, but I do in fact have the 4 pin connector. I'm pretty sure I can use the 4 to 6 pin adapter like this, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...Q5fAccessories
If that adapter will work, go ahead and send the sensor because it's looking like I would have had to buy one of those no matter what.


Edit: are the 99-01 cobra wiring harnesses set up for the 4 pin maf? I'm going to be running a 4v wiring harness just not sure what I'm going to get it from yet, but if the sensor will plug into a cobra harness, I'd be good to go.

 

Ok random question.

Does anyone know how many different timing covers there are (5.4 F-150 Non-lightning) between 97-00 (or whatever the range is)?

 

Don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty sure they're all the same.

If you're looking for one, I've got one in the garage that came on my 2v longblock but I decided to go 4v so I have no use for it. PM me if you're interested. Here is a pic of it with all the mustang accessories except a/c and p/s.
engine1.jpg?t=1285178466

and another pic of just the cover off the car. You can see it's in good shape.
timingcover.jpg?t=1285178533

and if you don't want it, maybe someone else will see this.

 

jarryd: whole new LMAF with a 6 wire sensor coming for you. send me back whatever you don't use.

EDIT: and that's the exact same front cover I have.

 

Jarryd your right, looked up the PN's last night and they're all the same.

The dude I bought the S/C from had to modify the front cover. I'll post up pics as soon as it gets here, that way we can know how to make the S/C fit without having to modify/make a bracket.

 

Getting ready to start my own conversion.
I have an 02 saleen and plan on dropping in a 5.4 shelby complete motor. I got a screaming deal on the setup and am looking forward to getting started in the next month or so.

I will have alot of questions and hope I can lean on all of you to get this thing done!
The one thing i am worried about right now is the height of the blower. I have the saleen heat extractor hood and DO NOT want to have to get another hood.

 

You're gonna need k-member spacers at a minimum, but most likely a cowl hood. I know mine won't fit under a stock height hood even with the spacers.

 

syclone, post a pic of your hood. We'll sauce this out for you. The shelby motor even with the blower is fairly low slung for what it is. First thing first, measure from the top of the blower on the shelby motor to the top of the water pump or some other easily referenced spot, then post up and I'll measure mine and let you know what kind of clearance difference you're looking at.

 

Got the car back finally. She laid down 369/379 at the tires. The the A/F rich side (12.5's) so there is still some adjusting to do. I having a hesitation when I mash the gas pedal to the floor. It kind of feels like turbo lag. It happens just for a split second and then the car takes off like a bat out of hell.

I have one bank (drives side) that is way different then the other. The computer is subtracting fuel on this side but cant figure out why. Its averaging about -12 different then bank 1.

 

330, could you do me a huge favor and shoot me dyno sheet scan. I wanna show Bob and a couple locals that don't do forums.

 

Yeah, no problem. I'll get on scanned once I get a copy. The guy was going to have my car on the dyno one last time when I went to pick up the car but the day before the computer it was hooked up to broke. As soon as he gets the comp back up and running he'll be emailing me the sheet.

 

killer. Much appreciated.

 

can anyone give me some advice one what to do with my fuel level sensor so I can still use it without the stock pump in place? I'm getting the sump all welded up tomorrow and I'd like to get the tank mounted back up again so I can start on my fuel system.

I'm picking up an aeromotive regulator from someone on corral for $30. WOOT!

edit: Oh yea, R3d I think I'll be able to use that sensor, they make an adapter, and if I buy a newer wiring harness, I shouldn't even need that. I don't know where else I'd be able to pick up a sensor for this thing so without it, I'd be stuck buying either a whole new one, or a SCT MAF.

 

just use your stock fuel hat and remove the pump...Float still connected plugged in and functioning...Thats how I would imagine that would work. I think I read that you wanted to route the return line to the top of the fuel tank...there isnt a way to adapt the stock fuel lines out of the fuel hat to make this possible?

 

The stock fuel line isn't the right type of fitting. I'm sure I could make something work with it, but I picked up a weld in bung to connect the return line to. I'm gonna have that welded into the top of the tank so that issue has been taken care of. I figured that is all I'd have to do with the pump, just didn't know how easy it was to pull off.

 

you can keep your stock feed line plugged into the tank. then get an adapter that makes the hard linein the engine bay connect to a -6 line. this will be your new return line from your stock feed line. i have an extra nib fitting for 25 bucks shipped i bought from aeromotive:

 

so i would just put the piece on the stock line and connect it back to the hat with the pump taken out? That almost seems too easy lol.

edit: I forgot, I broke the fitting where the stock fuel line connects to the hat. I would either have to replace the line, or put new ends on there.

 

gunna have to do something.. that fitting up there makes life easy under the hood with AN conversions. I have one under the hood connecting the hard line to my rails.

 

My plan was to run all new lines anyway. My stock one was looking pretty corroded so I would feel better if I had brand new ones. Is there an adapter I could connect to the hat where the outlet is where I could connect the new line to that spot for return?

 

whats the bet source to power a heat exchanger pump on a lightning set-up? i am getting super close to having everything done now!!!

 

you'll need a 30/40amp 12v relay. Take 12v ignition on signal from the fuse block under the hood. Take the 12v+ on the big wire from the battery. You have a pump already right?

 

yea i have a pump. just need to power it lol

 

ok cant resist the temptation of doing the rear exit setup like horspla2000 did.just talked with my fab man for almost 2 hours today.gonna tackle the job.and i plan on making a duplicate just for a jig

 

ok horse i need some pointers.i went back to page 286 and started looking thru your post and seen that you have the cobra r hood.seen that you went with the mm k member spacers,milled the mid plate down 300's ,anything else? did you ever get the hood to shut? i put my motor in car to take some measurments and check out the situation.i have a mach 2 hood.there is no way its gonna work.so need a bigger hood now maybe cobra r not sure yet.dont want a 4 inche thats forsure.



here is a pic of the motor in there

 

the reason its not going to close, at least one of them, is because that eaton is top fed. youre adding like 3-4 inches to the height of your motor, and thats VERTICAL height, which is NOT what you want for an already tall motor.

my suggestion? get a side fed supercharger or make an adapter plate because you are going to have a hell of a time getting it to close with it being top fed.

 

not trying to be a dick but no ****! think that is already an established fact! think you should look at page 286 at horspla2000 setup. i am already well aware of what is involved. with that being said the mach2 hood is nowhere near tall enough at the front.my friend has a cobra r hood and his hood has way more depth at the front then my hood.so im hood shopping.i know horspla2000 was going thru hell to get it to shut. i have read thru all of his posts,and didnt see him post anything about ever getting it to shut.i know he was so close.so if you chim in horspla2000 would like to know the outcome

also while i had the motor in the car taking measurments i took the mid plate out and set the blower on the intake then closed the hood.even being low in the front the mach 2 hood closed and had room. so i measured my mid plate exactly 2 inches so im figuring if i can shave 2 inches i will be good to go.getting the rear exit plenum for the l blower is not going to be problem.i want hood clearance. looking back thru post i have seen these parts mm k member spacers ,illwill recommended pa racing cobra r motor mounts,and i may do like horspla and mill the mid plate down some. i have to much time and money in my setup to just throw it away and buy an expensive torque tech setup,would rather buy a whipple 3.4 or kb 2.8 before i did that. i would really like to get my setup under a low profile hood,and low profile i mean 2 1/2 r hood or something.dont want a 4 inche or any other monster **** on my car