an elanor style bump maybe could work. It'd still require a big hood in general but the custom bump could be done to look cool.

 

The lightning blower is so ugly, sorry. Having to cut a giant hole in my hood is why I'm sticking with a nitrous setup till I can get a better job at which point I'll be going turbo.

I got my sumped tank back a couple days ago. Gonna paint the sump wrinkle black before I put the cover back on and bolt the tank back up. Probably gonna be mid next week before I get it back up there, I'm going out of town all weekend.

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Also got bored over the weekend and used stuff I had laying around and shaved my decklid. What do you think? Ignore the bumper, getting repainted after the swap is finished along with some other things.


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Looks better than it did before. GT badge fell off long ago lol.


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Bumper is trashed because I got rearended and didn't want to file the insurance claim.

 

well red after much consideration and thought think im going to scrap the lightning blower rear plenum idea.was talking with voodoo racing on nloc.and i am very impressed with the intake plate that allows you to bolt the gt500 blower on lightning intake. the lightning blower is a 1.8 the gt500 blower is a 2.2 should be way more efficient setup. then that solves the whole problem and even got a better blower.its a no brainer.

 

I would go that rout. Do you know if they make a plate that would allow them to let me use a GT500 blower on my navi heads?

 

not sure 330,the plate bolts on the lightning intake. not really sure about the 4v stuff im sure somebody is.get on nloc or lightning rodder. lightning guys arealways doing 4v swaps most with a turbo.im sure there is somebody that has done it though.

 

Thanks I'll check it out. My plan was to go turbo too, but I'd love to put a big KB or whipple on top of my block.

edit: after doing a little reading, it looks like it would be best for me to just go turbo unless i want to buy a set of GT500 heads. I'll stick with the navi setup, hell i can flip a set of stock navi headers around if i really wanted to.

 

12fast, PM me your email. I just ran across some pics I took of my elbow once it was welded up and still of the SC. I have a Cobra R hood and it does shut BUT I did have to cut a SMALL hole in the hood to clear the pulley. It was damn close. I fabricated a bubble in the hood and blended it in to make it subtle. If I had a smaller SC ppulley I may have made it. Also, there are different Cobra R hoods that have more height to them and one of those may have did it. I haven't been on here in a long time and the first thing I see is my username. Funny. I'll try to get some pics if i can find them here in a few.

 

pix

 

hood picture. You can see the "bubble"

 

plenum pics

 

I also made an adapter plate out of 1?2 plate to eliminate the midplate. This bought me 2 inches alone. I spent a shitton of time on it and did an awesome job. Once I got to the point of test fitting it I realized it interfered with the alternator and I couldn't get around it. If someone had more time to figure out how to make it work it would be a good setup. I still ahve it sitting right here.

 

Now that pic is something I could live with under my hood. Looks sick man.

 

the mid plate gone will make my set up work without spacers or anything,im interested in that im sure me and my fab man can come up with something

this is the deal ,gathering parts gonna take the plunge

 

Has anyone been in contact with FTP?

Been calling for the last few weeks, left messages and havent gotten any response back. Going to be sending them an email, but am haesitant if they wont even return phone calls

 

Sooo....I've got my 3v setup running, but its not running well. It has a stumble as you roll into the throttle, and hits a wall revving at around ~3500rpm. I had to modify the cam position sensor timing to mimic the 2v position, and I need to verify that I've got it right. I don't have a 2v available so I have a request for help....

It can be done in a vehicle, but if someone has a motor on a stand it would be pretty quick. What I need is the relation of the cam position pickup to TDC. Procedure would be thus... Pull the cam position sensor. With #1 coming up on the compression stroke I need to know when the leading edge of the bump on the gear gets to the leading edge of the hole for the sensor. In other words eyeballing into the hole for the sensor you can see when the bump on the gear would pass by the sensor. My notes say the leading edge should get there at 4 degrees BTDC. Anybody got time to verify a 2v?

Thanks!

 

I've given up on dealing with any of these online companies. HPS was too slow, FTP is way behind, MHS is way behind, it's just hard to get anything done when it involves dealing with someone that isn't in your neighborhood.

I'm getting EVERYTHING custom done locally except my headwork because the only place around me charges 1500 for a basic port job on pushrod heads, I don't even want to know what they would charge to do mine.

There's a local guy here that does headers, race suspensions, fab work, etc... anything race oriented he can make it so he's going to be helping me a ton over the next couple months. He's the one who welded up my sump. I just have to live with him telling me to buy a chevy if I want a fast car. I'll show him when I'm running 9s in a full weight street car.(I hope)

 

FTP has been behind due to the shop moving to a bigger shop. i'll buzz him tomarrow and see hows he coming on the lt's

 

Ok. So I found a gt500 motor at a reasonable price, but I am reading all the fitment issues with the 2v 5.4 I am worried the bigger heads and PD blower would cause more issues. What would need to be done to put a Gt500 motor in a new edge without using a pull off hood??? Also do the new 2011 aluminum 5.4 motors and the 2007-09 5.4 4v have the same motor mounts locations as a 2002 4.6?? I have a million other questions but figure i would start with the broad questions first..... Thanks.

 

You would need k-member spacers, and a cowl hood. I don't really know how much room the blower needs, your issue is probably going to be where the pulley is rather than the top of the blower. I think after the k-member spacers, a 4" cowl would have no issues. The spacers give you the room you need to get the big heads/valve covers in with the master cylinder in place.

There's also somebody out there that makes drop mounts, but I forgot who it was. With those and some spacers, you would have a lot of extra room under the hood.

 

Yeah someone mentioned earlier in this thread about 2000 Cobra R mounts, which give something like 2" more clearance, but i have not been able to find any. Would i also need a different tranny bracket do to different angle of the drive train??

 

I think you're trans cross member would be fine, but I've heard that sometimes lowering the engine means changing your pinion angle. I think it just depends how low you go. 1/2" is supposed to be safe, but anymore and you're going to have other things to deal with here and there.

You could always take some measurements to see how much clearance you're going to need and what it's going to involve getting it to work. I'm almost positive a 4" h.o. fibertrends cowl would cover it with ease.

 

look at the july 2010 issue of 5.0 mustang&super fords a guy put one in 96 mustang,and also they are doing a project car called the fox 500.the guy with the 96 has a harwood 5 inche hood.the fox 500 paul's high performance did all the work they got a 03 cobra style hood for the fox body to cover the gt500 motor.i called pa racing about the cobra r motor mounts,the guy said its not motor mounts its a k member.but i have a maximum motorsports kmember and wouldnt change it for nothing in the world.but maybe an option for you.if you read the 5.0 article tells you a bunch of things dude had to mod.

 

Now that you mention it, I do remeber reading about that.. Gotta dig through my old mags and find it now. Thanks

 

you don't need a special k-member or mounts. Maximum motorsports and I solved this problem much cheaper... k-member spacers. Use 1/2" and not a bit more.

The GT500 setup will require a cobra R hood and possibly need that modified. You'll have to see.

In any case, it's a relatively simple thing. Think of gt500 as a regular 4v.


Jarryd: awesome progress. Keep them updates coming.

The12: You're so far ahead now... You're really going to like the better flow of the gt500 compressor.

My car is still for sale. 8 grand for any of you that have posted up.

TurboX2: 7 grand for you.

 

I'm messing around with my intake, just trying to get all the wires and sensors where they need to be. The intake came with this http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/20..._9F479_AB.html

Is this something I'm going to need to use?

If anyone can tell me everything I'm going to need on my intake as far as sensors, that would help out a ton. There are a couple bungs on the bottom of the plenum that I don't know what they're for, had some small plastic tubes that had been cut off running from them.

I want to make the wiring as easy as possible when I'm dropping everything into place.

And will a 75mm t/b be big enough for my setup or am I going to have to go to cobra style? I can get it modded to work with either one so I'm not concerned with that just need to know what my best option is. Circle will be cheaper than oval though.

 

started on my k-member install and completely forgot about needing spring perches. Now the car is sitting up in the air for a few days lol.

 

You shouldn't need a map sensor unless you do a methanol kit or run a separate set of extra injectors on their own injector driver. This is very rarely done. You will need coolant temp, fuel rail pressure, MAF, Air intake temp (probably on the maf for you now so don't worry), throttle position and any EGR that you're planning to use. When you get around to plumbing up all the wiring and vacuum ping me and we can cover it.

 

So what sensors will actually be on my intake? I'll get that MAP spot welded shut and smoothed out, then there are the 2 bungs underneath that have plastic lines that screw into them.

Coolant temp, isn't that the one that was in the crossover on my PI intake? where would this go?

fuel rail pressure, wont my fuel pressure regulator take care of that?

TPS goes on the throttle body, I've got that covered

EGR is gonna be deleted, there's nowhere to connect it to the intake right now anyway, actually, that might be what those bungs on the bottom are for.


edit: one more thing r3d, is the 75mm t/b gonna be enough for me or do I need to run something like a twin 65?

 

I know this isnt much help but I know EVERY little bit helps. Granatelli's k-member drops the motor .3 inches according to them. I think this along with the MM spacers will help alot.

I have taken some messurments on my gt500 motor and it seems from the top of the pulley to the center of the crank case bolt is 2 inches taller than my 2002 supercharged saleen motor I have in there know. I do have a bit of room already from my stock saleen heat extractor hood but I may come up a bit short. I am going to do EVERYTHING i can to keep my saleen hood....never been a real fan of the cowl hoods but I might not have a choice.

 

You need to get some play-dough and measure your existing clearances. We'll get to all the real numbers once you have hard data on the existing clearance. You can also play with the shimming of the body panels to get another 1/4".

A bit of advice, take it for what it's worth: Granatelli is ****, if you put that crap on your car we'z gunna haz words. Maximum Motorsports k-member is the one they're stealing the design of and making a shitty copy of. Buy the real deal. GMS makes crap stuff in china and suspension is one place you do not skimp. It costs double for a reason. Quality.