Ok so I have a million and one questions. Some of which i know the answers to, some of which i can ask my friend and some of which i would mostly like an opinion. I can get a short block 5.4 off a f150 or expedition for around 2-250. I know i can use my stock heads from the 4.6 and get them ported but i was wondering if there were any that were worthy of looking at in the range of 5-700? for a pair not individual lol. I was looking at intake mans and i found this site from google.
http://www.rpmoutlet.com/musv8dynotune.htm
They also sell the adapter plates for 250? I was looking at Part # PPC-54061 typhoon intake.
I also want to get some newer pistons, most likely forged. I dont really wanna go with just regular a$$ stock ones cuz...i just feel like ill blow it lol. Anywho i was looking at these...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-IC885-010/
(im not gonna lie, but all the boring and stuff i dont really quite understand which will fit but just an idea of what i'd want)
Cams:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-51802001/
I also know i can just get one made for possibly cheaper... I want an opinion of what i can do. I know the possibilities are endless but my funds definitely are not and this is a long project im looking at. so possibly be done next year? If i can save money and get 350-400 hp out of the car...im happy. im not looking for something extremely super crazy fast lol. I just want something thats streetable but still fast. Maybe im asking for to much but hey...anything is possible. Thank you in advance though.

 

Your best option for a 2v is the HPS intake. It looks like a stock PI intake, but its aluminum and it's made to fit on a 5.4 block and fits under the stock hood. No adapter plates, nothing.

 

HPS all the way!
The adapterplates is a headache, but if that's what ya got, get to it. If your going to spend money, save for the intake!

No matter how or what the build is used for, JUNK the stock rods!!!!!......!!!! Even weak N/A will destroy the rods. Plenty of aftermarket rods for the 5.4l for around $300!

Goodluck on the build and welcome!

 

thanks guys i really appreciate it...i had forgotten about the hps intake. Im definitely gonna go with that. As for rods, what do you guys reccomend?

 

I have been running my 2v 5.4 swap for exactly a year now and I've read this whole thread too many times. I put about 10,000 miles on it including two road trips from Ohio to Florida and a lot of daily commuting. I plan to keep the motor stock and finishing up the rest of the bolt ons. Electric water Pump/ Underdrive Pulleys, Aluminum Driveshaft, 75mm throttle body, new short throw shifter MGW or Tri-ax, 30 lbs injectors, HPS intake. Then I will take the car to the dyno and down the 1320. My goal is to have a 12 second 110 Mph daily driver.

If that doesnt do it. I'm going to go with MHS 3.5 Cams and Ported heads or maybe just scrap the 2v 5.4 and go with a 4v. Do you guys think I could reach my goal I posted my mods a few pages back but Ill put them up again because Ive changed some things

3650
4.10
Superior Hardened Axles
Adapter Plates PI intake
Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator
Granatelli Front Coil overs C/C Plates 200lb Spring
Koni STR.T Struts
Steeda Stubframe Connectors
Jegster Single Adjustable LCA Spechrical Bushings
Eibach Drag Launch Springs
Lakewood 50/50 drag shocks
Pro Products Plenum
93 Octane Custom Tune Datalogged and all that

Can I make it to 110 Mph? with the stock long block and full bolt ons and if not would it make more sense to cam and port my heads or just go with the 4v 5.4? What type of numbers do stock long block 4v 5.4 make

 

R3D Thanks for your help along with you cutting me some slack lol. Its hard for me to keep up on the new things that are coming out. I will let you all know when/if I buy the motor and let you give me some suggestions. You are correct in saying I do not have a SC but I and wanting to.... will the saleen SC work or should I got with a centrificul SC? Thanks again for your help!

 

I will tell you that going 4v comes with a lot of headaches. It's a big job.

 

TIMMY WANTS SOME LONGTUBES :'(

Also on a side note, does anyone have any idea which mounting bracket I will have to use for a s/c? Since I'm running a 99 F-150 timing cover I'm assuming a 99 mustang cover? I know the 96-99 mustang covers are the same though so Im not 100% sure...Im so lost on what to do for a power adder lol

 

Big list today... I'm gunna be brief.

No adapter plates and definitely no Typhoon intake. That hunk of crap is just that. Plates are a headache and have sealing problems. It would seem that you've been schooled on that though so I'll drop it.

For cams check out MHS stage 3.5 (www.modularheadshop.com). Nick is the only guy I know of right now actively developing mods for NA 5.4 2v's. Anyone can mod a blower car but Nick's taking the hard road and helping us squeeze power from these things.

If you want 350rwhp then here's a couple recipes that should get you there or really close:
1. stage 2 ported PI heads, MHS stage 4 cams, forged rods, 10:1, longtubes, HPS.
2. TFS heads as cast, MHS stage 3.5 or 4 cams, forged rods, 10:1, shorties, HPS.

To be brutally honest, the car will be fast as hell with a plain 5.4 with cams, longtubes and HPS intake. 12 seconds should not be a problem on that if you can drive it. No matter what, replace the stock rods. I don't like the stock 5.4 rods. Too many windowed blocks.

Oh, and on the pistons... forged aren't really necessary unless there's a good chance you'll want a power adder in the near future BUT, if you're planning to spend 440 on cast pistons, 110 bucks more gets you forged pistons from TMD (themustangdepot.com)

Yeah, that about covers it. Straight bolt-on.

See... I'm not just panic-y... everyone hates those things.

www.themustangdepot.com They have rods in I-beam or H-beam with ARP bolts for <300 bucks. Call them and tell them that nutty guy that keeps sending people to them for 5.4 parts sent you. You might just score a discount. No promises but it has happened. I send a lot of people to them.

Get rid of the plates and toss on the HPS intake and some drag radials and I bet you'll smack upper 12's as it sits. Actually... if you can drive it I'm betting you could hit top 12's with just drag radials on your existing combo. Tq wins races but I'm betting you're traction limited till about 4th gear anyway with the 4.10's so some more traction would solve that. A torque arm would really solve it and get that nose lifting to help plant the rear tires.

Add the cams and ported heads and you'll start getting deep into the 12's. Want even lower, drop on TFS heads, the cams and a set of FTP's longtubes.

http://shop.torktech.com/ Call them. One of the guys already has one and it fits nicely under the hood, no adapting crap.

I think you should drive it NA before you pop for the blower. How fast do you want it exactly?

Mustang bracket won't work AFAIK. You'll need to fab one. I've been trying for years to get someone to make the brackets and HPS is willing but I have to get them a bracket first. If you've got the capacity, I'd say make it and sell em. If you need help LMK.

 

Progress on mine:

Intake is set down on the heads. I got the fuel line interference issue sorted out. It was pushing against one of the heater hoses. Very little clearance in there when you go -8AN on the fuel lines.

I bought a new used alternator with a pulley on it since I couldn't get a pulley for mine. 35 bones for a spare alternator, not bad. Still need to get ALL the bolts for the intake and plenum and all kinds of ****. I'll be going to the hardware store tonight and picking those up.

Having a BITCH of a time finding an upper radiator hose. I'll try to remember to take pics of it as it sits tonight.

 

Red, you asked for pics, here you go...
The washer I am missing fits right in there...

On this one you can see how the hump is in the way of the chain guide...

 

Red........I like the "64,999,987 firearms owners killed no one yesterday"

 

Nater, I may have a few of those shouldered washers. I believe they are fixed onto the bolt but I may be wrong on that.

 

ok...just found the washer...

 

w00t

 

still doesn't fix the timing chain guide issue....I have the old 4.6 ones, and if they were just about a inch longer they would work perfectly...

 

must haz correct 5.4 arms and guides.

 

So what would you suggest Red? Dremel the backside of the guide so that it will fit over the hump?

 

yeah... that seems like a plan. as long as you don't affect it structurally.

 

it is the vanes on the backside of the guide that are causing it not to sit right...If I could get rid of the vanes, I am pretty sure it would work.

 

gunna defer to someone with some more recent exposure to fiddling with them. I haven't laid eyes on mine in a couple years.

 

Has anyone else had this happen that the Timing Chain Guides on the driver's side not bolted up correct?
The are Romeo heads on the Windsor block....

 

I have Romeo heads on my Windsor block and didn't have any issues. A dremel and a light touch should do it, I'd imagine. Just like red said tho, don't weaken the structure in any way. The straight one on the tension side kinda just acts like a guide to keep the chain from bouncing around. Use your best judgement and I think you'll be ok.

 

Ugh, timing guides and chains still scare me. I have to learn how to set up my timing and everything after I pick up a secondary timing chain tensioner and my cams. Gonna be a ton of fun learning how to install cams and set up the timing on a 4v. I'll take care of that after I put some internals in there too. Once I get to that point, I'll just about be ready to have this thing running.

I haven't really made any progress in a while other than parts collecting. That's all I can really do until I have everything I need. I can't make any progress until I have all my engine parts taken care of. Then the real fun begins.

I've got a birthday coming up in a couple weeks so maybe I'll get some money to get a few things. Doubtful, but I can wish lol. Nobody cares too much about a 22nd birthday.

 

Horspla- Did you have to grind some off the back?

 

I think I do remember having a little fitment issue at one point. As long as you are making subtle little tweaks etc, it should be ok I'd say. It was a few years back and I don't remember exactly what the issue was, but..............

 

so just a couple questions as compared to the million and one lol. Where can I get the long tube and short tube headers? As for the porting of the heads, should i just tell them i want them ported to stage 2?
thanks again!! Im almost ready to start doing this.

 

Shorties, you can just buy off the shelf Ford Racing 4.6 2v 96-04 headers or JBA 96-04 4.6 2v headers. For the longtubes, myillwillinc will chime in in a second with the linky action.

Stages are a generic way of describing what you want/have/need. I would tell them to make them flow 220-ish CFM intake and to not kill the port velocity in the process. If they know what they're doing and have the right equipment that order will not be too difficult. Operations like Modular Head Shop, Total Engine Airflow, Fox Lake and others do have "stages" but again, that just for ease of description.

A random thought from experience: Having your existing heads ported will cost about 800-1000 bucks or so. Then you'll need a valve job for a hundred or 2, and you'll probably want better valves and springs and locks and retainers which is another few hundred. You'll be into the heads you have for 1300 or better. I would really consider adding 700 bucks to that and taking it to the next level (a level you can not reach with any ported PI heads) with a set of TFS heads.

 

Linky to FTP: http://www.ftperformance.net/

Super nice guys, last I talked to them, they said it would be middle of august and they would have another round of LT Headers ready.

 

how much does all the machining necessary to get a block and heads ready to install run at most shops? i want it bored .020, cylinder hone, everything to make everything match up. the block and heads are very dirty. is there anything wrong with spraying everything down with a water hose? there is rust all over everything already anyway....