Well, I suppose it's time for an update. This past weekend I spent most of my time gasket matching and doing a little porting on the HPS intake. There was a lot of material to take out around the ports (my poor dremel).
Ordered my heads from summit almost a month ago with an expected arrival date of April 2. It seemed like everyday I was checking the process of my order and my anticipated ship date would move a few days back. Monday I got fed up after finding out the date had moved back to May 6. I called up summit and when they couldn't give a definitive date of shipping I canceled my order.
So... I called around and found out MMR had a set of TF that I was looking for. I should get these by this time next week.
My MHS stage 3 cams should be in next week as well and that means I could have the car back on the road by the weekend of the April 24th.

 

glad to hear it horspla. I'm picky about who I work with... he was a good guy.

330sprayed: Can't wait to see some numbers. If you have some more time, take some 2-part epoxy and build up some radii around the runner inlets and the outlet of the upper plenum into the lower common plenum. That was a nice-to-have in the design considerations of the HPS intake but since it's easy enough to add on later it was left off to keep the price down and make the thing available sooner.

 

keep us posted horspla2000. hope the best for ya man. let us know if the tune does it.

 

He is supposed to be emailing the tune today. I'll work on it hopefully tonight and see what it does.

 

r3dn3ck: I have an idea in my head what that should look like but I don't want to be way off base and screw things up in there. Do you have a drawing or design that you could send over to me, or maybe just explain it more. Thanks.

 

basically you want the 90 degree turns to take as long as they can. So where the roof of the plenum plunges at a sharp angle build up some low berms and sweep the vertical plane as gently into the horizontal plane as you can given the space available. For an example of the profile, make a really tight fist and look at the back of your knuckles.

you see how the inlets on the pic below are really slow turns from horizontal to vertical, you want that basic thing. Even though it pinches off the tube a bit you actually increase flow in a runner like that. The inlet is just like cutting off the pic below about 1" above the rise.

 

Ahh, I gotcha.
I went as far as I dare in the runners. I was surprised to see how much material could be taken out where the intake connects to the head. There was an extra 1/8 inch of alum past the gasket in some areas. I'm hoping that the heads will be pretty much spot on. They should be for the price. lol.

 

Well got the tune thing hammered out and got it programmed. STILL won't start!! Ugh!! I checked fuel pressure. I forgot about the PPRV delete on the Cobra pump. I'd say to anyone out there, DON'T do that!! As soon as the pump shuts off, fuel pressure bleeds off to 0 within 2 secs and then the lines are dry. You have to cycle the key 3-4 times to get ANY pressure back. I can command the pump on with my scan tool. I can achieve 63 psi when doing that. Not sure, but it seems like I should see more. STILL won't start. It stumbles and tries a little but no go. I am going to take a battery charger from work home over the weekend so I can boost the vlotage while trying to start it. I have hopes that the extra voltage will get the pumps going a little faster. PLUS I have an inline check valve that I can put in, even if it is temporary. Well try that and see how it goes.

 

Another crazy request....anyone have a spare EGR tube layin around? The one from the header to the EGR valve?

 

don't give up horspla...im rooting for ya

 

diggin for egr tube... I deleted EGR.

Got my CAI in yesterday. Gunna do some fitting work today to make it work. It was a fenderwell kit but I'm making it an underhood kit and using the larger piping from the fenderwell side to make the main piping.

Going to paint my fuel rails and do some trim painting on the BBK TB. Once all the CAI piping is figured out I'll paint that. Going to use some True Blue touch up rattle can, some glitter rattle can (for metallic flake look) and then a coat of clear ceramic enamel rattle can. It turned out really well on the other things I've done it to. May also use caliper paint for a different shade of blue in places.

 

well took the blower off so i can put the gaskets on....and of course they gave me gaskets for 4 valve b heads....go figure. well when the right ones come in i will be tightening everything up....does anyone have the specs on what to torque the blower bolts to?

also i still need a alternator guys...hook me up.

also r3d the 4 valve alternators and lightning ones may be different after all

lightning

http://www.oehq.com/acdelco-parts_33...PICKUP%20LIGH#

4 valve

http://www.oehq.com/acdelco-parts_32...20COBRA%204.6#

 

not sure... Don't remember where mine came from.

 

help me w some advice, you on now??

 

I CANNOT get my car to start!! I put a batt charger on it with a boost setting in hopes of getting the fuel pumps singin a little better and cranking over a little faster. I put NGK TR6 # 4177's in it gapped at .38. It either has weak spark for some reason or not getting fuel. It won't even opo off for a second on ether anymore. It still stumbles a little but won't fire. Fuel pressure is 63 PST but drops off a little while cranking. Are these plugs resistor or non-resistor and does it matter?? I was told these are the plugs to use and are common in the L workd?? Maybe I'm wrong?? It ran great before and I just put the L top end on it and checnged the plugs to the NGK's. I have the L tune from Amazon and it didn't change a thing. RIPPNG MY HAIR OUT HERE!

 

Horspla ... Have you tried to hit the fuel pump reset button?

Do you have the engine-to-chasis grounds tightened correctly?

Vacuum lines all connected?

Suggestion: Try resetting the fuel pump switch, then remove the battery cables (resetting the computer) and check all your grounds and other electrical connections. Reattach the battery cables with a fully charged battery and see if that works. If it doesn't, you know you've significantly reduced the potential for it being an electrical problem.

I'm not experienced enough yet with modern FI systems to help locate a fuel problem, if that's what the problem is.

I hope I've helped you out a bit ... ???

 

the problem is hard to diagnose because we can't be sure fuel is actually being squirted out of the injectors. The only things that cause fuel not to spray is an electrical prob.

Tell me what you changed (everything) since the last time it ran. we'll get you running

dont forget hors that you can call... ninetwofivefiveoneeightfiveonesixseven .

 

Ok, messed with it a little more. It will run on ether, I wasn't giving it enough I guess. It DOES have fuel pressure so it IS NOT the inertia switch. I have no DTC's so it isn't a short to ground or now power or ground to a critical component etc. At this point, I believe I have narrowed it down to the injectors either not pulsing, or they are plugged/restricted internally somehow. This L top end was a VERY clean 99 top end so it has been sitting for a LONG time. There was fuel in the rails when I took it apart and that is no good on injectors/pumps/carbs etc. etc. etc. Since it stumbles and attempts to start, I think that is a sign that I DO have injector pulse (no reason not to since I KNOW I have CKP and CMP sigs since it does run on ether) I think that is one more sign that the injectors are plugged/gummed and or some pintles are stuck or sluggish. I am a senior master mechainc at a Ford dealership, so I can bring the IDS (Ford scan tool) home and do an injector flow test. That will tell me right there which injectors are doing what and what cyl it is on. I was getting real frustrated and thought I may have the wrong plugs etc. etc. or something stupid. Sometimes an outside set of ears/eyes etc. can turn you onto something stupid or something you didn't think about. I heed to get an inline check valve to put in the fuel line at the filter to hold pressure. The injector flow test relies on this so I won't be able to do the test with the PPRV delete. I think I have seen some of these somewhere to "repair" vehicles with failed internal check valves. I'll have to get one of those (even if it's only temporary) to do the test and see what I got. I'll let you guys know what happens. Cross your fingers.

 

Red to answer your question above, I put the L top end on and related throttle body etc. I put a terminator dual pump setup in the stock GT tank. It now has a 90mm L MAF, 42# injectors and different rails that I made. I modified the L rail to returnless and put a FRP sensor on it. The FRP is on the other side of the supply and I have good pressure and fresh fuel. I drained the tank dry when doing the pump and added fresh when I put it back together. The wiring harnesses didn't really change so that shouldn't be an issue.

 

can you keep spraying starting fluid while cranking it?

 

WIll, no, I am doing it myself and there is no need. Sonething else is going on. I took the injectors out and mounted them in another intake I have here at work. I can pressure up the rail with a injector cleaning tool setup and put a signal to the injector one by one and watch the spray and listen to the pulse. I really think some of the pintles are stuck from sitting. I may have to get a set of 42#ers. Well see later today.

 

Well guys, I figured it out. The injector pintles on 7 of 8 injectors were stuck! I rigged them up like I said above and only 1 worked! I tapped on them with a screwdriver handle one by one and I got 4 to go so far. I am gonna put some fuel injector cleaner to em and let it sit for a bit and try again. We'll see.

 

awesome horspla. let us know the night and day difference when it is all working right. how many pounds of boost are you gonna be running?

 

Watch this vid of my test rig. I got em all going. I'll put it back together soon. I have a 4 lb lower on it but was advised by Rick @ Amazon tuning solutions to put a 2 lb on. The 5.4 I have isn't real strong and I don't really plan on beating on it much as a result. I'll let you guys know when I get it running. I feel much better now. Oh, and R3D, just goes to show ya that something other than electrical can cause a fuel delivery problem!!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJM1t3tJgSE

 

you gotta admit you omitted a key piece of info, that the injectors were sitting in varnish maker was important.

And yeah, apart from the mechanical issue, electrical was the only thing left.

 

hahahaha...........ok. Backpedal it is.

 

J/K R3D. Even if it was left out, you did say.........the problem is hard to diagnose because we can't be sure fuel is actually being squirted out of the injectors. The only things that cause fuel not to spray is an electrical prob.
This is not true, regardless. I have seen injectors mechanically fail even when the electrical side tested and worked ok. Regardless, thanks for throwing some help out there to help me get through it. I knew I'd figure it out but I was getting frustrated. LOL

 

Well, put the injectors back in last night. It runs now, but runs like crap. WAY rich and then now I have an idle problem, it idles real high. I had to stop working on it and will hopefully be able to mess with it more tonight. I hope it is the IAC just stuck wide open somehow (used) since I didn;t see anything else wrong. Ahhhhhhhhh...............fun fun.

 

Well I've more or less got mine running..

Tommy, how much did you actually get to mess around with hunter's car? I dont know if its just me or what but where they've got the collector's welded to the headers, leaks. The header to mid pipe connection leaks. It looks like the collector was leaking before hand.

http://s324.photobucket.com/albums/k...fe440/Headers/