View Poll Results: What are your 5.4L swap plans?
Voters: 220. You may not vote on this poll
Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine.
#8851
the collectors slip on and they tack weld them on only. i didn't notice if they had leaked since i didn't take them off. the header to mid pipe didn't leak when ftp put it on hunters car. the band clamp things might be crappy if reused, not sure but i'll ask hunter to see if he knew about the leaking.
#8852
here is where mine stands:
decided to go front mount on lower bumper by the foglights. not enough room in front of the axle to mount them remotely.
decided to go front mount on lower bumper by the foglights. not enough room in front of the axle to mount them remotely.
Last edited by myillwillinc; 04-13-2010 at 02:56 PM.
#8855
Glad to see this thread is still alive and well. I've been pushing this project back for the last 2-3 years but I'm ready to get started. I got a 2001 Cobra that I want to swap a 2001 Navigator DOHC I picked up, into. I want to molest my current Cobra motor as little as possible for a possible 4v future swap into a v6 or something.
I want to learn more about the intake and exhaust as when I was browsing around here last time, the HPS intake was still in development and everyone was using adapter plates. Is the new HPS intake the way to go now? How would I bolt my stock throttle body up to it, or what new elbow/throttle would I use with it?
I don't mind making my own set of midpipes that will bolt up to the 5.4, but does anyone know where I can purchase the correct flanges to bolt up to the headers? I can't find that rectangular passenger side header flange anywhere and was willing to make my own, but I feel starting with a good foundation is the best way to go.
Last question is about power and rpm. How does the 4v navigator perform at higher rpms? I read that with the stock pistons and rods, it can't spin safely above 6500 rpm. With some new pistons and rods, would 6800-7000 rpm be achievable?
Thanks,
-Joe
I want to learn more about the intake and exhaust as when I was browsing around here last time, the HPS intake was still in development and everyone was using adapter plates. Is the new HPS intake the way to go now? How would I bolt my stock throttle body up to it, or what new elbow/throttle would I use with it?
I don't mind making my own set of midpipes that will bolt up to the 5.4, but does anyone know where I can purchase the correct flanges to bolt up to the headers? I can't find that rectangular passenger side header flange anywhere and was willing to make my own, but I feel starting with a good foundation is the best way to go.
Last question is about power and rpm. How does the 4v navigator perform at higher rpms? I read that with the stock pistons and rods, it can't spin safely above 6500 rpm. With some new pistons and rods, would 6800-7000 rpm be achievable?
Thanks,
-Joe
Last edited by finaltheorem47; 04-14-2010 at 01:11 PM.
#8856
HPS is 2v only. There are a LOT of ways you can go with the 4v though. Sullivan would be where I'd turn probably. You can also have MMR whip you up and upper for your Navigator lower intake. You could also run that 01 cobra intake on some reichard 4v adapter plates.
You can use the headers FTP is making. Just have him put rectangle port flanges on. Save you all that hassle of making them.
Navi is a great spinning motor with a proper cam set on it. The stock navi cams are way mellow and while I'm sure they'd be fine to around 6k on the navi I think you could do with a little more duration and maybe a hair more lift if you want to rev it further. Boy do they ever rev if you set em up right. 7000rpm is totally doable with your typical H-beam rods, ARP fasteners, and good performance bearings. Nice forged slugs won't hurt anything but aren't totally necessary unless you plan to do a power adder. FWIW, Al Papito spins his 4v 5.4 north of 8800rpm. It's a real race engine though.
You can use the headers FTP is making. Just have him put rectangle port flanges on. Save you all that hassle of making them.
Navi is a great spinning motor with a proper cam set on it. The stock navi cams are way mellow and while I'm sure they'd be fine to around 6k on the navi I think you could do with a little more duration and maybe a hair more lift if you want to rev it further. Boy do they ever rev if you set em up right. 7000rpm is totally doable with your typical H-beam rods, ARP fasteners, and good performance bearings. Nice forged slugs won't hurt anything but aren't totally necessary unless you plan to do a power adder. FWIW, Al Papito spins his 4v 5.4 north of 8800rpm. It's a real race engine though.
#8857
HPS is 2v only. There are a LOT of ways you can go with the 4v though. Sullivan would be where I'd turn probably. You can also have MMR whip you up and upper for your Navigator lower intake. You could also run that 01 cobra intake on some reichard 4v adapter plates.
You can use the headers FTP is making. Just have him put rectangle port flanges on. Save you all that hassle of making them.
Navi is a great spinning motor with a proper cam set on it. The stock navi cams are way mellow and while I'm sure they'd be fine to around 6k on the navi I think you could do with a little more duration and maybe a hair more lift if you want to rev it further. Boy do they ever rev if you set em up right. 7000rpm is totally doable with your typical H-beam rods, ARP fasteners, and good performance bearings. Nice forged slugs won't hurt anything but aren't totally necessary unless you plan to do a power adder. FWIW, Al Papito spins his 4v 5.4 north of 8800rpm. It's a real race engine though.
You can use the headers FTP is making. Just have him put rectangle port flanges on. Save you all that hassle of making them.
Navi is a great spinning motor with a proper cam set on it. The stock navi cams are way mellow and while I'm sure they'd be fine to around 6k on the navi I think you could do with a little more duration and maybe a hair more lift if you want to rev it further. Boy do they ever rev if you set em up right. 7000rpm is totally doable with your typical H-beam rods, ARP fasteners, and good performance bearings. Nice forged slugs won't hurt anything but aren't totally necessary unless you plan to do a power adder. FWIW, Al Papito spins his 4v 5.4 north of 8800rpm. It's a real race engine though.
Straight to the point, thanks for the info Redneck.
Intake wise, my choices are either ~400 dollars for adapter plates with my 01 Cobra intake or ~700 for a Sullivan intake + an elbow which is ~400 dollars which puts it at ~1100, right?
Do you know how much the FTP headers would run me?
With the heads, would any of the cams pulled from a cobra or mach be good or is going aftermarket from companies such as Comp Cams best? What about beefier springs also?
"Boy do they ever rev if you set em up right." Are you talking about stock or swapped out cams in this sentence?
#8858
It's kinda the whole package. The balancing is critical, but the cams make the motor. They have to work with your intake setup and your exhaust setup just right. MM&FF did a series called mods for 4v mods where they covered 5.4's IIRC. In any case, Lemme do some more research for you on your intake issue and cam selection. Unless someone that actually knows already could chime in.
For most of the rest of 4v, I'm not your guy. I could go ahead and learn it and then tell ya.
I'm betting for OEM (stock) cams mach1 are probably the best. Just a wild guess though.
To make it rev like the hot sumbitch it can, no matter what you'll want aftermarket cams. Spring requirements vary by the cam. Expect to have to do springs.
FTP headers would probably be about 800 - 1000. Just a guess there...
For most of the rest of 4v, I'm not your guy. I could go ahead and learn it and then tell ya.
I'm betting for OEM (stock) cams mach1 are probably the best. Just a wild guess though.
To make it rev like the hot sumbitch it can, no matter what you'll want aftermarket cams. Spring requirements vary by the cam. Expect to have to do springs.
FTP headers would probably be about 800 - 1000. Just a guess there...
#8859
for a 4 valve the 96-98 cobra intake cams are known to be the best.....i wanna say the exhaust cams are all the same on the 4 valves except for the shelby and ford gt.
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/s...d.php?t=124934
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/s...d.php?t=124934
#8860
for a 4 valve the 96-98 cobra intake cams are known to be the best.....i wanna say the exhaust cams are all the same on the 4 valves except for the shelby and ford gt.
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/s...d.php?t=124934
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/s...d.php?t=124934
I personally would put in some MAch 1 cams or something else with a good N/A cam, but then wait to do some good 4v cams, because I have a feeling 1100+ for a 4v cam isn't what you want to fork out right now.
#8861
headers from FTP run $1K $1200 with midpipe. as for header flanges, i have 4 sets of 2v and can whip up a few sets of 4v easily from the cnc shop by my office. just let me know
#8862
Sullivan vs. Navi
Navi vs. Boss 290 (aussie unobtanium intake that costs as much as a baby)
01 Cobra intake on plates is likely to have a bit more grunt than any of those intakes on the bottom end and a tad less on the top but that's a guess.
If you want to rev north of 6500rpm, you'll want the sullivan. BTW... the motor from those graphs above was a SHM 4v 5.4 with well ported heads and fat cams. Don't expect those numbers without that combo. They're from an MMFF article many moons back.
Last edited by r3dn3ck; 04-15-2010 at 07:29 AM.
#8867
Cardude I used the L t-stat housing and got an L upper hose. I cut a 3" piece off of the Mustang hose end (cuz the L hose is bigger) and used that for an adapter. I slid the L hose over that and there you go. Fits perfect. $18 for the hose.
#8869
Well, I did figure out one major problem. That is you cannot use a stock throttle body on an accufab inlet plenum!! The IAC ports are different and it idled way high. Once I get thtat handled, I can work on the tune issue. I'll keep you updated.
#8870
Oh, and I called AMPPerformance for a part and talked to Mike. REALLY nice guy that took his time and cut me a litle deal. Talked for a bit when he said he used to live in Ohio (so do I) and was real nice. I think I'll be calling there for any future needs if they have what I need.
#8872
not really... the two bottom bolts are enough to hold it. You can make a little bracket for the top if you want but it's not a big deal or something that I'd spend a lot of time or money on trying to find OEM.
#8875
I took that PCV fitting out and put a pipe plug in it. As far as the alternator bracket, YOU NEED IT!! I got mine running and the alternator bounces all over without it. Cast aluminum cannot take that and it'll likely break the ears off the bottom eventually. Ford does not make those brackets anymore (I work at a Ford dealer and have been looking for a bracket) I may have a line on one of you're interested but I started making my own. Either way, put something on it fo keep the movement to a minimum!
#8879
Ok, a few days ago I raved about Amazon Tuning solutions and Rick that works there. Well, I take it back. I bought the "tunes for life" to try to get mine running. You are supposed to be able to get a tune revision just by calling with your needs. I have talked to him twice and sent several emails and no reply. Getting frustrated.