do u think i could just throw a hood scoop on for added space or is the hole to far to one side?

 

u might want to get it balanced just for the sake of being close to the 600hp rating of the crank it can take that "balanced" unbalanced i think it would take it for a while then snap alot sooner then being balanced

 

if you're reusing the stock piston/rod/pin assembly then rebalance isn't important. Keep the pieces in the holes they came from. Stock they're balanced well enough to be whipped on. If you're mixing and matching parts from more than 1 motor then definitely rebalance.

 

Hm thats true.

 

balancing is always cheaper then buying a new block/crank/rods/pistons/rings/gaskets/fixing heads if fixable if they damaged when she lets loose/bearings/

pretty mouch bout the only thing reusable after an engine lets loose if ur on the lucky side is bare heads and cams otherwise my bet would be pistons gona fly up smack the valves bend them bend the followers possibly snap the valve springs when compressed weird if the engine keeps rotating

so if it were me ied rebalance even if i wasnt replacing rods/pistons...

 

now for my question ever since startup on the rebuild my motor has had a tick got about 400-500 miles on it now still there hasnt changed in pitch/loudness...... and ive wipped on it and nothings broke yet any ideas? i reused the 5.4s rods/pistons/crank/block honed it and such any idea to what this tick or knock is? engine runs like a charm has great oil pressure course the HO FRPP oil pump i put in helps ;>


also this is running untuned 19lb 4.6 injectors

and btw i have a set of 24lb injectors with an 80mm MAF calibrated for them if anyone wants them i didnt want to change over my injector connectors to make them work and im not planning anything drastic just stock 5.4 with stage 2 cams for now so i dont really need em and might as well recoup some of the money ill be spending on the dyno so if anyone wants em shoot me an offer also a set of PI cams and a NPI aluminum cross over intake if anyone knows of someone that needs one

 

Maybe us south dakotians have oddball cars but i went to have my car chipped with a basetune for my 5.4 and computer accepts chip but with chip in u cant connect to the computer to datalog....

anyone else ever have this problem or know what causes it? he tried his autoxray, xcal 2 and i tried my actron scanner and all 3 couldnt connect to even read codes....as soon as you take the chip out....it works again read codes datalog blah blah.....

he has another 97 hes being trying to tune also on his dyno that he has this same exact problem with. anyways hes got a xcal 3 for mine and the other coming because this problem but ied just like to know what causes it.


thanks

 

here is the pic from monday. hunters car was dropped off yesterday and hopefully this weekend we will have pics of them on and finished....

 

So since Im getting new forged rods/pistons I need to get it rebalanced.

Sorry for my ignorance guys this is my first modular engine build and I really dont want to eff it up too badly :"(

 

yeah please balance it dont wanna seeya in here 10 track passes later going... where can i get a new block/crank/rods/pistons/heads and blah blah lol ;>

 

tappy tappy is probably a sticky lash adjuster or sticky valve or crank tapping the scrapers.

toss in some lucas oil treatment and see what happens. LMK as it's a debugging step

 

quiksilver im gonna try to get by with using the stock hood i dont see why i wont be able to since im using my stock intake its just wider now. ill probably have to pull the lining off the hood but thats not bad. i really would like to keep my stock hood as its part of what makes a cobra a cobra but if it doesnt clear im gonna go with a 4" cobra r. hows your swap coming btw? ill have my heads back in the morning then its almost complete. i ran into a problem tonight my oil pickup tube is too big for the oil pump that came on my shortblock and dont want to reuse my high volume pump off the cobra bc its got 190,000 on it lol.

i have a big problem tho well two actually. my belt tensioner doesnt fit on the new timing cover and i dont have all the pulleys that the timing cover has bosses for and the other problem is timing the engine. which way do i put the marks on the cams and which way does the crank mark face? and how do i know if im on a compression stroke since im building from scratch? any help would be greatly appreciated cus im close to dropping it in

 

ty red will try that and get back to ya ;> i sure hope it aint a rod bearing lol i dont wanna have to tear the motor back out and it sounds like from valve covers i hope

 

JohnnySVT:

Since you're using a stock intake that's modded... I'm pretty sure it'll fit with minor clearancing if any. You may need the MM adapters but I doubt it. You can check clearance by tossing a ball of play-dough on top of the intake from a 96-98 cobra and seeing what's left. If you have a full inch and change then I don't think there's a big worry.

Definitely sounds like a lash adjuster. You won't have to pull the motor but you will have to pull the cam covers and find the wiggly one. Pull it out and replace it or see if you can compress it, then let it expand in a bowl of oil. If it doesn't decide to pump up after that then make sure it's oil galley isn't plugged (dental tools required there). If all else appears well, replace the lash adjuster (actually go ahead and replace all of them in that case).

If you put the Lucas oil treatment or the STP oil treatment in the blue bottle and the problem goes away then just use a thicker oil as it would seem you have low oil pressure, possibly from a thousandth of an inch too much clearance on a main or rod bearing.

 

What I would do and I'm not sure how far you are, but BEFORE you break the engine apart, take a paint marker/finger nail paint and mark the timing chains to the sprokets. Using diffrent colors for both sides. Mark the top gear and chain one color of one side as well as the lower gear. The other color for the oposite side.
Now if the engine is bolted up you could try looking for the copper colored link in the chain, but this is bad practise. I would recomend timing it. This way you know for sure.
Some people actually count the links on the drive side of the chain to the factory indented marks on the gears/sprokets. In other words, they would count the links between the gear marks. You may ask this around on the other forums.
Timing it would be the best.
Are you using stock cams? Counting the links for stock cams would be just fine if you can find out the link count

 

hmm was under the impression couldnt get valve covers off in car ;> but ill try and c what i get all my plastiguage checks were withing the haynes specs but who knows... and i cleaned the living hell out the heads and all oil passages so that shouldnt be a problem but i can always be wrong and im using 5w-30 my guess is i should step up to 10w

 

new frpp HVolume pumps are like 60 bucks ;> got one on my 5.4

 

question for you guys that are running the hps intake. how are ya'll keeping the intake cool? mine gets hot as hell.

 

Well it just gets hot, the plastic intakes didnt really transfer heat like aluminum does.

 

paint the outside of the bottom surfaces with ceramic enamel white, paint the top with ceramic enamel black. Other than that... suck it.

 

feels funny not seeing hunters stang sitting next to mine. looks like TJ at FTP will make mine bigger then hunters. mine will be 1.75 stepped up to 1.9 so i can get some air to the turbos. after he get the long tubes going he will try some turbo headers for front facing turbo mounts.

 

This is from page #128 of the March 2009 issue of MUSCLE MUSTANGS & FAST FORDS magazine, from the LUNATI advertisement on that page:


Ford 4.6 Destroker: 3.350 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD3350 Price $983.23
Ford 4.6 Standard: 3.543 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD3543 Price $792.47
Ford 4.6 Stroker: 3.750 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD3750 Price $983.23
Ford 4.6 Stroker: 3.800 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD3800 Price $983.23

Ford 5.4 Destroker: 4.00 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD4000 Price $983.23
Ford 5.4 Standard 4.165 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD4165 Price $792.47
Ford 5.4 Stroker 4.350 stroke 2.657 main size Part #MOD4350 Price $983.23

Stated also is they are all 8-bolt flange cranks and the journals are “fillet rolled” for better oiling and they will all work in 2-V, 3-V, and 4-V engines.

Phone: 662-892-1500 www.lunatipower.com

 

well, i guess im just gonna order the 00 cobra R hood and hope to god that it fits. as far as my swap goes i havent had the time to make a whole lot of progress just yet, but im gonna hit it hard this month. i really gotta get the thing up and running befor the end of summer, but im waiting on a settlement with sears from over a year ago that i was planning to finance the swap with. the bastards nearly killed me with a garbage craftsman compact jack last march now they are giving me the run around...

 

 

well guys the new lightning motor is almost ready heres the break down mmr 4340 forged rods ,mahle pistons and rings(lows compression blower pistons) ported p.i heads ,comp cams beehive springs,jlp blower cams, stand size stainless steel valves,chromemoly retainers, melings oil pump with billet gears, emp stewart water pump,block bored 20 over,ported factory eaton supercharger ,60 lb injectors, thats my new motor im hoping that its going to be way stronger than the factory lightning motor was

 

nice...

 

sounds like a pretty sweet build.
got a couple of questions for you guys. ever since i got the car tuned it idles at 1k-1200 rpms, before the tune it was idling around 500-700. also when i let off the throttle and the rpms start to fall, you can hear a popping sound in the exhaust. it just started recently doing that, roughly tonight.

 

tune aint right.

Update on mine: got the methanol pump mounted and some of the plumbing done. I need to find a suitable tank for the methanol so it can go in the trunk with the other flammable liquids. The lower intake is bolted on along with the mid plate. That much clears the hood just fine... hehe.

Now, I need one of you that has the blower already to help me out a bit. I need to see how you situated the throttle cables, where you put some vacuum stuff and how you set up the upper radiator hose and **** like that.

 

well, i just gave a deadline to FTP to see if i can take hunters car to the car show/dyno day this sat. hopefully they will have it done so i can roll up in there with his car.

 

i took some pics of how things went together all the vac lines,and i had to make a custom throttle bracket,because the lightning bracket sits on top of the power steering reservoir and it looked like ****,i have like 200 pics of the lightning swap on my myspace/conradkchris@myspace.com in the motor swap album if that will help you out dude, if you like the way my throttle bracket is i might can make you on off of mine,if you like the way ite routed,i have seen one other way than mine and the bolted it were the egr valve goes it looked like ****,i bought a lightning throttle cable but it was to short so dont waste your money on it ,i got one from a 2001 f150 thats what im running and it works great had to modify it but it work just fine