I don't know, I pulled everything off and test fit them, drivers side was ok except for being tight on part of the flange of the motor mount, keep in mind I've got energy suspension mounts. passenger side.. I couldn't get to fit up for the solenoid on the side of the starter just being in the way. So I pulled the starter off, and it fits up ok.

 

i'll ask tj what he did. the only diffrence in you and hunters was he had soild mounts on his.

 

it's officially being parted out now. Please note what you need. My whole IC setup is available for 400. includes dual core 300cid heat exchanger, new IC pump, all AN lines and fittings and an aluminum reservoir. Each hose end fitting cost 25 bucks and there's 10 of those, there's 20ft of -8An hose at 10 bucks a foot and then there's the brand new pump (80 bucks) and the tank (70 bucks) and the actual cores (250 bucks). There's plenty of value there (over 800 bucks actually invested) for the 400 I'm asking.

You can use regular 1/2" ID heater hose or you can go as far as I did. In any case, I think heater hose looks lke **** and the stock hardlines that mount to the intake don't look any better.

 

I ordered a Powermaster XS mini-starter (Part#9532) we'll see how their claim of "will clear all headers" works out.

 

cool, take pics so i can see. how much are they?

 

Alright, It was about $300, the rest of the mini starters summit had wouldnt really ship for about a week or two. I'll get some pics tomorrow, I've got them bolted up hand tight right now.

 

thanks for the offer red but i have almost everything i need cooling wise. i have the ic pump, heat exchanger, brackets are on the way, etc.

so r3d.....since your going back na and talking about the possible new intake does this mean you are keeping the car now?

 

Alright I took afew pics, It almost fits but I think its the #2 tube that's interfering.

http://s324.photobucket.com/albums/k...fe440/Headers/

 

No, still selling it. The problem has been the big *** blower sticking out of the hood and the local constabulary liking to give $1000 emissions tickets. I'll do the new intake project and then sell the car. It b0rks my plans a bit but keeps me entertained. It'll no doubt be making substantially more power with the new setup and a nitrous kit humming and I'll have a new hood on it so it should sell fairly quickly after that.

Now then... you need parts, I has these. LMK what you need. If you buy multiple items or whole sub-assemblies then I can be a little flexible on the pricing. Not much but a little. I'd like to see you with my Aeromotive fuel rail setup. I even have the special fitting you need for the FRPS to mount on them. 200 shipped for the whole shootin' match for you.

We had to bang a little ding into one of my pipes right at the bellhousing. As long as it's not a serious crease you can resort to that. That's one of the things about LT's. They're always sorta a custom fit.



ALL: I need a grip of parts. I need a CAI, a 70 or 75mm TB, aftermarket plenum, GT fuel rails (aftermarket), 30lbs injectors, alternator pulley, HPS intake.

 

I cut the 90 degree elbows down so they fit under the inlet plenum. I also cut the tabs that go on the supercharger studs so the hard line can sit down lower. It worked.

 

r3d I'd like to see me with your Aeromotive fuel rail setup too so consider it done. just pm me your paypal or you can e_mail me at me@the.net.

thanks for you input horspla2000. i have asked a few people how they did there set-ups and after hearing how different people did theirs i have a good plan on how to do mine.

ok i am thinking of my next major thing to do to the car when the blower is done. some of you will laugh at me but its cool. i am gonna take out the 5-speed and go auto. it should be easy to do with my car because once upon a time the car was and auto. years ago i was set on wanting to bang gears. well now i am aiming for my car to be a street/strip car and want to get it to run as quick as possible.

then yesterday i rode in my friends trans-am with a built 3 speed and a stall and i was sold on it. i would like to do a built 4r70w (auto mustang gt trans).

my question is how would you set yours up. for example what would you do for the stall, converter, trans brake, etc. also remember this is a lightning set-up so i figure the stall and all would not have to be to high.

i would probably start with a stock 4r70w do the j-mod and get a trans cooler, shift kit, stall, converter, trans brake and all and just get everything where i want it. then i would buy this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEVEL...Q5fAccessories

they said the trans is always posted for sale on there and they are in the process of making a website.

k guys tell me what you think

 

hunters ran strong as an auto. how close to bham are you? i have his trans with the j-mod and the dirty dog stall converter i'd make you a sweet deal on.

r3d - i have an accufab tb/plenum combo as well as gt aeromotive rail kit, alt pulley, k&n cai and 19,24,39 inj.

 

email sent and I sanitized your email addy from your post so you don't get spammed.

<jedi mind trick> You should get my intercooler setup too. Wink wink. </jedi mind trick>

Killer... let's work a deal. I need the whole match except injectors... gotta find 30's so I don't have to re-tune. Save myself a few hundred bucks. LMK how much for the TB/Plenum, rail kit, pulley and CAI and I'll paypal you straight away.

 

i assume your talking about Birmingham AL? if so according to map-quest i am 295 miles away and says its a 4 hr 30 min trip. how big is the stall in it?

 

really... what's the speed limit, like 55? L.A. is 400 miles from my house and I make it there is 4 hours flat.

EDIT: Oh... just realized why. I always speed on I5.

 

well if i get the trans ill have to use my pops diesel truck and im gonna burn as little diesel as i can cause filing up that truck cost a small fortune.

i sent u an e_mail r3d

i got another question...so lets say you run a stock heat exchanger and you have a water/meth kit....will that help stop heat soak?

 

It won't stop the heat soaking of the manifold but it will make it totally unimportant. I'd bet on IAT2 temps around ambient or a hair lower from boosting 14psi through a stock L intercooler + a 175 nozzle on a methanol kit (like my kit). In short, it'll stop the effect of heat soak on your intake temps but won't actually stop your manifold and blower from becoming hot. It'll make them less hot that's for damned sure but they won't be as cool as the air around them simply because of convection of heat from the engine upwards.

You'll be able to run a lot more timing and make more power at any engine temp.

 

so will nitrous to the same thing? im still going back and forth with just doing the 6 psi from the Harley pulley and nitrous or doing 12 psi no nitrous....decisions decisions!

 

to a lesser degree it will but not enough to really matter till the shot sizes get kinda huge and you'll still have to back off more timing which costs power. With methanol you get to advance the timing a bit and free up the extra power you're already feeding gas into the motor to make. I'd stick to 1 power adder at a time myself. 12-14psi intercooled with some water/methanol... good to go. Methanol is cheap and goes a long way, nitrous is a bit more costly to refill and you can't refill it yourself and the bottles run dry fairly quickly. Downside to more boost is, it's always there. Dip your foot and you use it.

The easier question to ask is do you want all the power on all the time or do you want to flip a switch to turn on the afterburner and have a lower level of badass on tap the rest of the time.

 

will stock internals hold up to it? also u should have the payment from me. check to make sure.

 

stock internals... I don't like them above 10psi really. Others run them with 14lbs but I think that's asking for trouble. On stock internals I wouldn't run nitrous or any boost over stock.

Payment confirmed. Will ship later today.

 

thanks for the advice r3d.

when the time comes to get it tuned i was thinking of filling the car with 92 octane. then when the tank is empty i would then use 93. i want to do that because if the tune is good on 92 then it should be real safe with 93. should i do that or just do the 93

 

Tune it for what you'll run in it. A safe 93 tune should always be safe on 93.

 

k will do. also the lightnings have a lower profile alternator correct? if so do you have one? i can trade a regular one to u if you don't have one or if u do i will just buy your lightning one....let me know.

 

I have one but it's currently in my ebay auction for the blower kit. You'll need the right pigtail for the alternator too. Don't forget that bit.

If my blower doesn't sell on ebay then I'll part the alternator out to you.

 

ok. where do u get the pigtail and how much does it cost? whats the pigtail do?

 

it's the plug that goes into the alternator. They're different on v6/GT vs cobra/lightning.

 

oh ok. can the part be bought from a parts store or is it something you have to go to ford for?

 

ford or junkyard or MPS.

 

ok.....the search begins!!!