yea i think they might be 99-00 cobra heads. the intake and exhaust ports are smaller than the 03-04 heads. do you know what stage port job they did? did u get a valve job as well? where were they done at?

 

I got em from a guy on corral, the inside of the box says stage 2 port. The valve job was supposed to be done. I'm gonna compare them to the ports on my other navi heads and see how they look compared to those. They were done by some shop in AZ if I remember correctly.

From what I can tell, the ports look to be a little bigger than the unported navi heads.

 

All:
Vortech v2-SQ kit for sale in the classifieds. I had this on my 99 5.4 engine. Just FYI if anyone is looking for a S/C for their swap. Im selling my car n/a so someone is picking up a deal on a vortech kit,
https://mustangboards.com/mustang-cl...tml#post469729

 

This was on the inside of the box for the heads.
2a96e42d.jpg?t=1294346302

 

do you know what year the navi heads are? you might be better off. depending on the year they might not have the coolant and ticking issue. just something to look into...

 

Both sets are 2k navi heads. They both have the same part numbers on them.

 

look into or find someone who knows how to resolve the coolant and ticking from the heads. hopefully you can avoid it!

 

Is the coolant thing just the cooling issue? I can do the cooling mod for that. I have no idea what you're talking about with the ticking though, I'll have to look into that.

 

yea its annoying. its the right head that usually does it. find someone whos more experienced in 4v's but this was a common issue and was fixed with the 04 coba late castings.

 

From what i understand, the heads get heated up to a certain point and then gets the famous "tick". I had it on my Cobra when i started brake boosting the car. Better do it now while the engine is out cause it will be a bitch to do while its in there.

 

So what exactly do I need to do?

 

does anyone have spare motor mounts for the this swap?

 

do the coolant crossover mod and you wont' get the ticking. The mod is just a crack-pipe looking dealie (google mustang cobra cooling crack-pipe) that goes on the back of the head in a freeze plug spot. I would also recommend an oil cooler. Hayden coolers are available cheaply from Summit and do a fine job.

2blown: you use the same stock motor mounts that any v8 mustang came with. If you need a set, I have some OEM mounts.

 

I bolted my 3V mounts to the 5.4 and only 3 holes line up on the driver side and the passenger side. Is this normal? Also, in reference to the shorty headers, are they shorties for the 5.4 or 4.6 per say? I need to locate an 8 bolt flywheel as well. Do you have one laying around r3d?

 

I've tried every variation of those search terms in google and can't find anything. Got a link to anything?

 

Ok, it's time to piece together the hoses and fittings for my fuel system, I need to try to figure out everything I need. Anyone wanna help me figure out what sizes and lengths of everything I need.

Going to need to run a line from the sump to the first filter, connect that to the pump, then the next filter, then the line to the y-block, split to the back of the rails, run the lines out the front of the rails back underneath the intake to my FPR, then a line back to my tank.

I'm not sure the best way to rout everything or anything so I need some help setting this whole thing up. I need to sit down and get a complete list of EVERYTHING I need to finish this and then I'll get everything plumbed.

I decided to get the car up and running then wait on the turbo till after I finish my suspension and body work. I may wait and see if my town makes any advances towards going with e-85 too. If they don't though, I'm still gonna stick with my compression ratio and just run meth injection to keep the tune safe.

 

http://www.lethalperformance.com/03-...ng-mod-p-16947


about what you need for the head cooling mod. Probably something oyu can make yourself a lot cheaper.

 

You guys mentioned some things about the On3 turbo kit with a 5.4L, well my buddy with his 01 GT just did this....

So the car had a 5.4L with forged bottom end, about 9.2:1 CR, with box stock TFS heads, HPS intake and Comp 278aH's. In that trim it dyno'd 370 to the wheels.

But with the addition of the turbo, its not running all that well. After we got the car squared away and off to the tuner, that car has picked up around 30 ft/lbs. but it lost like 8 HP, wtf? Its set around 6 psi (for now), the car has 60 lb. injectors and Walbro's new 255 returnless pump. The tuner is blaming it on crap fuel, but I don't buy that at all, the car ran great before this using the same 91 octane.

Any suggestions? We fully expected at least 450 wheel at 6 psi from this set-up, and I think thats conservative.

 

Who's tuning it? PSR or the dudes in Chandler? There is another place but I'm not sure if they ever got a dyno. I stand by PSR's work. They never turned me away when it came to adjustments on my tunes and the Car picked up .3 in the 1/4 mile over my previous tune. He only picked up 15hp but fixed shifting and converter lock up time.

Spark plugs are gapped too much? Is fuel pressure dropping in the upper RPMS? 255 single pump just isnt enough for that much power. My car ran out of fuel at 400 with a 255 returnless pump and I have smaller displacement.

 

Its the Chandler guys. I prefer not to use PSR.

At the time of the dyno, the plugs were gapped too much, but the spark was not blowing out. When we go back we will re-gap the plugs anyways and put the fuel that the tuner reccomends in.

I don't know the details on the fuel pressure, supposedly the tuner was able to give it the fuel it needed and it didn't respond with any more power. He said he was not able to give it the timing it needed as it would start to detonate.

 

I heard that a lot at the track when it came to PSR, after I spent time and money there.

Yeah, I dont know why it would do that other then those two things. Hope, AZDC helps you guys get the car squared away.

 

Only 3 bolts that I know of actually get connected on the motor mounts. Yes, I have a Fidanza Aluminum wheel with replaceable (and a spare new) friction surface. I also have a Apex/TPS Full-Face Kevlar sprung hub clutch with King Cobra pressure plate.

My setup is 10.5". I'll sell the whole clutch setup with a UPR quadrant, UPR adjuster, new cable, my existing cable, clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel, spare friction surface, and I'll chop off 40 bones so you can buy a new TOB and pilot bearing so call it... 400 bucks + shipping.

Read this whole thing before you decide which cooling mod kit to buy. I like the lethal kit.

Plastic parts do not belong in this equation.

http://www.socalterminators.com/ldc/index.html


Run -10 from tank to pump inlet, -8 from pump outlet to rails, -8 from rails to regulator, -6 from regulator to tank return port.

You'll need 3-4' of -10 hose, 16' of -8 and 15' of -6. You'll need at least 4-6 90deg hose ends and a similar number of 120deg hose ends, NPT to AN adapters, o-ring AN *(also known as ORB)* to AN flare fittings, hose keepers, AN vice jaws (I have a set for sale), braided hose cutter, pipe dope (NOT TAPE) for NPT fittings and you'll need to do a little research on AN, SAE flare, ORB, NPT, etc... so you know what's being spoken of if you don't already. Also, decide now on a brand of hose and make sure all your fittings are designed for that brand and style of hose. Rubber core is ok but for your fuel system, I'd use teflon core.



See... stanger is one of like 4 other guys that that I get help from. Good find wtih the lethal kit. The LDC kit was the only other reasonable option but I like lethals a little better. Good find!

Well, it could be the MASSIVE overlap of the cam. That's not a turbo cam. It's a NA cam. I don't find the lack of power gain surprising at all. You might see 6psi of manifold restriction but it looks like cylinder pressure isn't being held...says valve overlap too big or you have some other problem. How about a cam set without the overlap and perhaps one with a more reasonable profile in general and no or almost no valve overlap.


Turbo car needs gas. Add a second pump.

Doubt he could possibly give it the fuel since the pump was pretty well out of gumption already.



Edit: New on my end. Broke my thumb, bought some more tools to get the last 3 bolts off my longtubes. All my field grade shotguns are now broken. My semi-auto mossberg just broke over the weekend during a rabbit hunt. Gas system broke in half. Dammit. So now I gotta go out and buy some guns. I'm starting off with a couple new shotguns and going from there. My whole field gun set is getting kinda beaten up anyway. Time for an upgrade. This weekend I got to get some new and improved version of the flu. I feel like I died yesterday.

 

I understand that the cams in the car are not the best for a turbo, so I would expect it to not make as much power as a motor that had proper cams, but to not have gains in HP at all? That makes no sense.

I can also see the need for more fuel, or a second pump, but at less then 400 HP? Shouldn't a 255 pump be able to handle at least 450 ish wheel power?

 

I can't find any -10 an teflon lines.

 

Good deal on the even flow cooling mod.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...oling-mod.html

Just fyi.

 

Im sure its already been answered but what it does is it sends coolant to the back end of the head where it needs it (cylinder 7 and 8). The heads get heated so quick and it leads to detonation on those cylinders, i've seen some melted pistons and that **** is scary. Its added insurance so do it while the engine is out cause trust me, its going to be a real bitch to do when the engine is in.

You can get the head cooling mod from all sorts of sites from lethal performance to a couple of guys selling theirs on svtp.

 

just sent my heads off for a P&P job and valve job! WOOHOO!!! cant wait to get them back and drop the cams in!!

 

very cool, I need to put the cams in my heads too. I still need to get around to a lot of things though. It's just too cold to worry about right now. I'm thinking it would probably be best to install my cams with the heads on the motor anyway and to get that far along, I really need to get my internals balanced and put them in. Such a long road ahead yet still so close.

 

u need to plan things out and start getting it in a step by step plan to get it done! next balance it, get it together, or look for other parts youll need ect...

 

I should have all the little things I need at this point. I'll need some spark plugs, that's about it. I also need a few gaskets but I'll get those. I'd like to change out the motor mounts too, but that's no biggie.