in order of asking:

bigger ports is better. stage 3 port if you can afford it, stage 2 if not. Cams, whatever you can get away with. I'd probably stay at VT stage 2 or comp XE268-ish. Stock oil pump is fine, so's the pan. Get an oil cooler if you can they shouldn't cost but 70-80 bucks and it'll help. 3650 is plenty strong but it is capable of being broken. Be nice to it but don't be afraid to do some smoky burnouts. Rear end is fine on stock axles but you need to watch the hard launches or you might just snap one. On the springs, depends which Eibachs... I'd just take the opportunity to swap to coil over in front only so you can adjust ride height without tools. Otherwise, you'll want a H&R super sport or a FRPP C spring equivalent up front. 5.4L ford intakes will not fit. Just get a set of adapter plates like the rest of us or be uncertain about your intake strategy. The 5.4L HPS intake will take a bit to hit the market... don't count on less than 9months. If you don't want to cut then get a 00' cobra R type hood. The cut you'll need is small anyway, so I wouldn't get too worried about that.

Edit: If you're going to go all that way with the build-up, then save yourself the effort and plan on it costing about 8-10K.

 

Hope this is clear enough for you. What do you need it for? Is it still

 

Oh, I plan on spending that much, just for now, I only have enough for the engine...I was planning on a MM K-Member Kit, 4 link rear (Evolution Motorsports Tri-link, MM panhard bar), upgraded trans and rear, etc. I hoping to start the project this winter, provided I have the cash. Since I will be saving up for a new front suspension (essentially that's what the MM package is), what kind of drop will I be expecting? 1/2"? Also, looking at the engine in the F-150, it seems to be in there pretty good. Would I still be able to take it out through the top?

 

The cut under the hood is to clear the throttle bracket on the side of the TB. Like r3dn3ck said, get a 2K cobra r or a any 2.5 hood, not the svo hood, god not that ugly thing. Make sure the front springs are stiff like the stockers. i have 98 stock cobra springs in front and H&R's out back. with my H&R's up front, the fender sat on the tire. the 5.4 weighs 25lbs more and it does make a difference, the Tubular k member will drop around 28lbs so that helps with the front nose fatty, but will still make it drop more.

R3n3ck....the peices have been sent to you, the main one i kept here, if you need, let me know.


Also if you plan on getting some, lets say BBK valve covers, nice looking, don't. They will not fit with your 5.4 being that wide. Trust me, i tried when i put my 5.4 in. Just so you don't get the headache that i did.

 

As for heads, I would assum Windsor heads would have to be used due to the timing cover, right? Also, Saleen330, how's your mileage on the highway? I'm curious to know how much the extra cubic inches decreases it.

 

I have a 97 5.4 timing cover, it had the same steering pump bolt configuration, the 03 timing cover was different and could get only 2 of the 3 bolts on there. I drove to TN a month ago, with 2 kids, 2 dogs, suite case for me and my kids, my parents house is 350 miles from my house, door step to door step, i got gas about 30ish miles from their house, so around 315 miles on one tank, which is way better than my 4.6 did. i would get around 200-220 on a full tank with the 4.6.
My friends 04 V6, has CAI, x pipe, duel exhaust, 3.73 gears n Tlok. going up the NC moutains, i would leave it in 5th and pull up the hills like i was in 4th, but he would have to put his in 4th and still be way behind me, got to love that TQ the 5.4 makes!!! he kept telling me how he would have to downshift to try to keep up with me.
V6-V8 yes they are different but i bet my car loaded down like that with the stock 4.6, i would of had to down shift to 4th on the mountains. 5.4...took care of that.

 

i didn't see any diffrence in the way my car sat when i put in the 5.4

 

Did you have stock or aftermaket springs? If i can find it, i'll post the pic, there is no room to even stick one finger between the fender and wheel when i dropped mine in.

 

i have mac performance springs. mine sat just about in the same spot when i went from 4.6 to 5.4. i just installed coil overs and the tubular k-member will go in this weekend

 

ok, i know this isn't a 5.4 motor. but i got my front end together and it looks cool. also i know it's a crappy pic, my cam is on the outs...

 

ok wow

I was looking into a 5.4 swap about a week ago and came across this post and finally finished reading! Nice work guys. I'm very interested in the swap and hope to be putting together some parts in the next six months. I'm not going to go as wild as you guys, I think I'll mostly go for a stock pi-headed 5.4 and enjoy it.

I read about the difference between the 6-bolt/8-bolt crank in the 4.6/5.4 but what does that mean in regards to swapping one into my 98 stick GT?

 

You just need a new flywheel since the number of bolts attaching the flywheel to the crank on a 4.6 is 6 while the 5.4 crank uses 8. FRPP sells a steel unit for $235 that has the 8 bolt style (they also have an iron and aluminum style as well).

 

the cobra is am 8 bolt flywheel. so you can pick up a used cobra flywheel for 50 bucks...

 

Ok i can't wait any longer, i'm going to need to jump on board with you guys and get me a 5.4L block within the next month or two. I dunno if I should just get the block and be happy with it stock or if I should wait and build it up with forged lower end, custom built or ported heads, cams , kenne bell 2.1 S/C and then slap in a T-56 6-speed tranny to make it complete...... this is all very addicting. Anyone happen to know of a good place to pickup a decent 5.4 engine for cheap ? I also noticed you guys talked about different 5.4's, i.e. the standard 2v SOHC out of a F150, or the one from a lightning which I think has forged bottom end ? And then there is the 04+ 3valve version if I'm not mistaken. And of course the DOHC 4v which would have the most potential, but is more costly of a swap. So everyone is pretty much in agreement that its much easier to just stick with the 99-03 2v correct?

 

Yes, but eitherway, go with forged internals. The length of the connecting rod is way too long to even think of using the stock powder metal rods (especially since there is no way you will baby the engine all the time and keep the rpms low). I say save the cash for forged internals, ported heads, and cams. Otherwise, you are only looking to best the 281 w/ torque and having the power die early in the rpm range. As for blocks, yes, stick to any 330 that has the PI heads.

 

if your going NA the just get a used motor and have it rebuilt. the factory crank is heavy duty steel good for 500hp and then just get some decent rods and pistons. throw some stock PI heads with aftermarket cams and whatever bolt-ons you want. that would make a mean street car that could be daily driven. then build another motor while driving that one and realizing you must have alot more power under your right foot.

just an idea...

 

Only on certain years did the 5.4 have a steel crank, otherwise, it has the cast iron version, just like what's in the 4.6 SOHC. I think it was 98 or 99 to 0something.

 

Does anyone happen to know which engine had which? It'd help me in locating a proper engine for my build.

 

I know for a fact that Lightning engines all had forged internals. If not, don't worry, if you are going mild, then a cast crank will be fine. However, try to get forged rods.

 

the cast crank will handle almost any streetable power level. I wouldn't worry about it. If you're going to stay mild, any ol' 5.4 will work as a starting point. Forged rods like bassman said, are a really good idea.

 

Ok, but I think I may want to go aggressive and push the limits of street-ability. Looking for maybe 700+hp. I know there is a lot more involved, ie. built or different tranny, stronger drive-train / rear end, etc. My plan is to have a solid motor that can rev high, be boosted eventually and will eat a Z06.

 

700hp cars are a real super-bi*ch to drive on the street... I would go out and drive a couple if you can before you do that to yourself, if you haven't already.

If you're going to get wild, then the only stock components you should be looking at reusing are the block and heads and intake. Everything else: crank, rods, pistons, bearings, fasteners, clutch, etc... should be of the highest grade you can afford. A good forged steel crank, forged H beams, forged dished pistons, hard main and rod bearings, ARP fasteners, stage 3-ish clutch... the works.

 

I know you can't give specific details about your project, but what are your plans for your 5.4? Are you going to keep it streetable? What's a reasonable goal for the street that isn't going to be, as you say, a female dog?

 

i'm trying for as close to 400rwhp as possible. then go forced induction with hopes of over 700rwhp. i've ridden in 500-700hp cars and they seemed streetable considering what they were built for. todays cars can be made with excess of 500hp and still be driven daily.

 

here is a good deal on rods and pistons for somebody's project.

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=834446

 

Sorry I want be here anymore to help out, you guys are great! I'll check to see how everyones plans go and good luck with your 5.4 projects and dont let anyone on this board discourage you, the jealous ones, ya know.

might be back one day,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,SaleenS330

 

What the crap? Did SaleenS330 get banned? If so, why? Damn this is sad, so many people are leaving this board. Where is everyone going?

 

On the PI Upgrade posts, there was an argument between Randy and Saleen in which in the end, everyone decided to side w/ Randy and had him banned. Personally, I think Randy should have been banned as well if fairness was the name of the game since he had pushed buttons as well. It is a shame that Saleen won't be around since his insight on the 5.4 swap was invaluable.

 

Being banned is silly retarded unless the person is being malicious in nature. I'll have to take a look and see how bad it was. But yeah that sucks losing a valuable source of information. Lets hope we don't lose r3dn3ck, then we'd all be lost.


Off subject, I got my Bilsteins and MM Caster / Camber plates. I guess living only a few hours from MM comes in handy, I got it all the same day it shipped, heh. Now just waiting on my F springs and it's time to drop this baby. After that all done gotta start shopping for 5.4L blocks, we have quite a few wrecking yards and places up here, so that will be nice to find one. I'm half tempted to just slap a lightning engine w/ blower with a hole in my hood and have some fun!


EDIT: Oh wow, that was bad. They both kinda went over the edge there. A simple arm wrestling match would have ended it quicker. I just noticed after going through some of the other threads that there is an awful lot of banned people on here, i.e. most of the old school folks who have been on here for a while. Anyways, hope the forum improves and everything settles down. I'm glad to be half ignorant about this stuff, so I can just ask questions and not have to argue.

OK back to 5.4 talk!

 

Sounds good man, keep us updated. For me, hopefully I will have the cash to do my build over winter break (or at least put the 281 in the F-150 and send the 330 out for machining). Sorry to ask again but I really need to know, is it possible to remove the 330 out of the F-150 through the top or do I have to remove it throught the bottom?