View Poll Results: What are your 5.4L swap plans?
Voters: 220. You may not vote on this poll
Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine.
#7471
please take pics.......
#7473
Man I am so slacking.. I have a 02 5.4 out of a F-150 minus the intake.. I am about to pull the motor out of my 98 gt and sell it.. What all can I or do I need to use off that motor on the 5.4.. I thought I read I can use all the acceseries like pullies, and stuff to swap over.. Please correct me if I am wrong. I will be picking up the HPS 5.4 intake as soon as i have every thing swaped over and bolts down into the car.. So when the intake arrives put it on and start her up.. Am I missing any thing in here?
#7474
you need your oil pan, oil pickup tube, oil filter adapter, accessories and sensors. I'd put your order in for that intake ahead of time or you may be left waiting a couple weeks. They've been getting snapped up pretty quick as the swap gets more popular.
#7476
can anyone tell me how many links are in the 5.4 timing chains? i ordered some from autozone and counted the links to find the uneven amount so i knew where to put them on the cam sprocket and i counted 58 links. so then i tried test fitting them and they didnt fit. then i counted my 4.6 chains and they had 58 also. the chains i ordered were for an f150. i guess they musta ordered the wrong ones. so i took them back and ordered them for a 2000 navi and those ended up being cheaper. hopefully these fit. this is the last thing i need to drop the motor back in.
#7477
Yea R3d I am in no hurry.. Well I am but the wallet aint lol.. Besides the intake is there any thing else I "have" to buy.. I am already getting little things like. Is there any thing else I might be forgeting..
1. Plugs and wires
2. Motor mounts..
1. Plugs and wires
2. Motor mounts..
#7478
As long as the ones you have are ok, you can reuse them, but I think I'd splurge and buy some plugs
#7480
hey everyone its been a bit since i've posted but i got a few more mods. put in 30lb injectors from R3dn3ck and also installed a 99 cobra IRS. got a bassani catback for it, koni 5-way SA shocks, MM aluminum difff brace and pinion angle adjuster. Vid and pics:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3AYKun5pbY
the exhaust needs a good bit of adjusting, going to add 2" to the catback before the mufflers and help tuck them up under the car a bit more, also going to spread the pipes apart from under the diff, theyre too close and the pass side rattles on the diff brace at times. thankfully i dont have to drive it much.
see how close it is to the diff brace?
mufflers hang lower than subframe a good 2"
pipes will be spread apart so they can be raised up on either side of the diff more
gap
exterior shots
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3AYKun5pbY
the exhaust needs a good bit of adjusting, going to add 2" to the catback before the mufflers and help tuck them up under the car a bit more, also going to spread the pipes apart from under the diff, theyre too close and the pass side rattles on the diff brace at times. thankfully i dont have to drive it much.
see how close it is to the diff brace?
mufflers hang lower than subframe a good 2"
pipes will be spread apart so they can be raised up on either side of the diff more
gap
exterior shots
#7481
well the 5.4 swap has been done for a while still got the damn lifter tick but now something is ratting like exhaust pipe against metal but thats not it cause ive wedged a wooden handle between exhaust and car on both sides to no avail it seems to be coming from the bell housing what inside their can make this sort of rattle i just put a new OEM ford throw out bearing in not more then 5k ago im thinking a clutch disk spring might? it doesnt change when clutch is engaged or disengaged but its loudest under the car with ear right between bellhousing and back of oil pan... i did bend the tabs over in the oil pan that the crank could hit and it didnt start till recently.
im working on 2 projects at once kinda lol the 5.4 stang and putting a 5sp manual in my powerstroke that has an auto so im trying to stay as cheap as possible and get some ideas to what the problem is and it causes no driveability issues
sorry for the horrible gramatic sentence been up for 26 hours and finaly going to bed lol thanks for any replys
im working on 2 projects at once kinda lol the 5.4 stang and putting a 5sp manual in my powerstroke that has an auto so im trying to stay as cheap as possible and get some ideas to what the problem is and it causes no driveability issues
sorry for the horrible gramatic sentence been up for 26 hours and finaly going to bed lol thanks for any replys
#7482
Any chance you could ceramic coat them?
#7487
If you want to keep the heat in then header wrap is the ticket. Coatings can only do so much. You need a real thermal conductivity barrier which isn't even always a good idea. For some reason most header companies void product warranties if you use header wrap.
Lightning swap guys: Let's talk vacuum. This is giving me fits. 2vfornow, could you run down the places where the following vacuum nipples on the blower, inlet and midplate connect to:
1. Rear bottom of the lower intake, goes?
2. Driver side of the midplate, goes?
3. Any you capped off?
4. Vaccum to DPFE comes from where?
5. Vacuum/Boost signal to MAP comes from where?
I just got a 90mm L-maf and I found some cool fuel **** (see below). Anyone need a 80mm maf body for a 02+ car?
So, Aeromotive has Part# 15112 and 15115 for 96-04 and 05-10 mustangs. It's a fuel rail pressure sensor adapter. This allows you to run nearly any billet rail setup. I picked one up and it's pretty neato. You will have to understand the difference between -8AN o-ring and -8AN and 3/8" NPT though. Picked up some Aeromotive rails too.
here's the rails:
here's the fuel pressure sensor adapter. It'll be external of the rail after the last injector on mine so I get full fuel pressure at the last injector.
Lightning swap guys: Let's talk vacuum. This is giving me fits. 2vfornow, could you run down the places where the following vacuum nipples on the blower, inlet and midplate connect to:
1. Rear bottom of the lower intake, goes?
2. Driver side of the midplate, goes?
3. Any you capped off?
4. Vaccum to DPFE comes from where?
5. Vacuum/Boost signal to MAP comes from where?
I just got a 90mm L-maf and I found some cool fuel **** (see below). Anyone need a 80mm maf body for a 02+ car?
So, Aeromotive has Part# 15112 and 15115 for 96-04 and 05-10 mustangs. It's a fuel rail pressure sensor adapter. This allows you to run nearly any billet rail setup. I picked one up and it's pretty neato. You will have to understand the difference between -8AN o-ring and -8AN and 3/8" NPT though. Picked up some Aeromotive rails too.
here's the rails:
here's the fuel pressure sensor adapter. It'll be external of the rail after the last injector on mine so I get full fuel pressure at the last injector.
#7489
The blue is caliper paint on the inlet, rattle can on the lower manifold and all the black is rattle can with a clear coat from a rattle can. All the little accent spots like the eaton logo and **** are caliper paint. So, mostly spray but with quite a lot of much better paint.
#7494
r3dn3ck i have the returnless setup on my lightning set up and it works great ,nothing hard about it at all ,running a return style really didnt make much sense when fuel rails will solve the whole fuel problem,i put a brass t in between the rail and the pressure sensor fitting so i could hook up my fuel pressure guage,and all of that works best on the back side of the drivers side fuel rail,if you shoot me your email i will email you some vac line pics,but photobucket is a pain in the ***,hopefully should get you going in the right direction, also what are you doing for fuel pumps? im not sure how much hp the stock pump will hold? i put the 04 cobra tank and pumps in mine with kenne bell boost a pump, the aeromotive fuel system was looking good though lol but it was 1700 bucks and on back order for well over a month, also one other prob i had with the swap was the engine coolant sensors are different ford tech told me they have different ohms so they are not interchangable,more on that later
#7496
I'm keeping the returnless for now, I still have my filter and showerhead setup so I can run an even split. I have a selection of fuel pump solutions on hand. I have the stocker in it still, and a 03 cobra pump and a SVT focus pump and an A1000 and controller. I'd like to use the big aeromotive pump but I have no clue how to integrate it and no instruction manuals. Yeah I can download em' probably but I'm a lazy ***. Using it will also require the expenditure of another 500 bucks or so, so I'll probably slap the focus pump in it for now. It'll be right on the edge of the pump's capacity and I don't want to put a BAP on it as there are technical problems with that.
I just transferred my old stock sensors over to the lightning intake. Tapped a couple holes here and there. Standard stuff.
Brackets I haven't sorted out yet. I haven't got a FMHE yet though either. They should be easy enough to bang out on a curb from a plate of steel/alum drill correct holes and bango.
I just transferred my old stock sensors over to the lightning intake. Tapped a couple holes here and there. Standard stuff.
Brackets I haven't sorted out yet. I haven't got a FMHE yet though either. They should be easy enough to bang out on a curb from a plate of steel/alum drill correct holes and bango.
#7497
R3d, wraps void the warranty because they rust the tubes, since it helps to retain the moisture, instead of evaporating it. That's why ceramic is great. Looks good and does the job of header wrap w/o rusting the pipes out.
#7499
i can help with this gimme time to get some pics
#7500
very much appreciated.
I got my vacuum situation pretty much settled last night. Need to pick up some minor bits and pieces but I think I have that nailed finally. Took some major re-working or the plastic lines but I got it. I'm assuming the bottom nipple on the boost bypass vavle is the boost side and the upper nipple seems to be vacuum side. The others were all fairly simple to figure out but a bitch to get set up cleanly.
Got my L-maf in the mail yesterday. Just need fuel rails and some fittings to show up. Going out now to get some wiring done and finish my CAI.
I got my vacuum situation pretty much settled last night. Need to pick up some minor bits and pieces but I think I have that nailed finally. Took some major re-working or the plastic lines but I got it. I'm assuming the bottom nipple on the boost bypass vavle is the boost side and the upper nipple seems to be vacuum side. The others were all fairly simple to figure out but a bitch to get set up cleanly.
Got my L-maf in the mail yesterday. Just need fuel rails and some fittings to show up. Going out now to get some wiring done and finish my CAI.