all of my 4.6 3v intakes are being used for things.... no spares for them. i will be taking a pic of the runner cross section difference between 5.4 3v and 4.6 3v. it is astounding how much lager the 4.6 3v runners are.

 

My goal is 500 hp at the rear wheels on pump gas.

 

ditto on the 500rwhp.

 

should be very possible. Best of luck to ya

 

correct. DD doesn't deal with the specifics of header flow or intake flow on boosted combos. On NA combos they make a difference though.

Gotta love the traction limit. Looks and sounds fantastic.

 

2000hp is the most so far for any 5.4. amazing there is so much power to be had in 330 cu.in.

 

Guys, 141 pages! How about a sticky about the options and what is rfequired for each?

My '99 has a weak cylinder that will make it through the summer but I would like to get started on obtaining a 5.4 and the parts needed to make the swap as simple as possible.
I want to build the motor for torque. Possibly change my 4.10's back to the 3.27's as I have an autmatic and a nice 10" converter that has a tune locking it at part throttle in 2nd gear and at WOT 1 second after the shifts. So question #1. How about an 8-bolt flex plate for my automatic to bolt to the 5.4 crank? Converter with the smaller Mustang converter bolt circle or have to drill holes?
#2. Would my SVO(FRPP) intake and adapter plates work well or does the 5.4 have limited redline, exactly what is the redline? My intake is port matched to PI Nheads.
#3. How about the harness that the GT has, can it be used or do I need the 5.4 harness from the donor car? ECM can be reflashed right?
#4 Can my COP's be used if my harness is useable and I use the SVO intake as I do now?
#5. I will stop here for now. I believe karkraft has new 5.4 2V's without accessories or harnesses for $2k. Great buy or asking for a lot of work with the parts I would need to complete the wiring or, again, would the Mustang harness work?
Well, 1 page down and 141 or 142 to go! How about the sticky or the answers to my questions if anyone knows that much about this swap! THX! Mark

 

the one thing that makes the 5.4 swap so awesome is the fact your basically adding cubic inches without any other mods. with the exception of modding the baffles in the oil pan and the adapters thats all you need to drop it in. some midpipes have to be worked alittle, some can be spread to fit.

 

[url=http://videos.streetfire.net/video/First-test-drive-2000-Mustang-with-Lightning-engi_160002.htm]First test drive, 2000 Mustang with Lightning engi[/url

 

2V4NOW whats your game plan for a hood? and im looking foward to seeing a video with u gettin on it.

 

2v4now,
damn, very nice. and good luck getting a hood to close over that mound of motor.

 

2v4now,
damn, very nice. and good luck getting a hood to close over that mound of motor.

no new news on my 3v swap. waitin for some time off so i can go pick up my engine and start dropping it in. will prob pull the 4.6 next weekend.

 

Shorter height means sharper angles as you transition sideways, and also doesn't line up the floor and roof as well. I modeled it all in cad before starting on them and used 1.5" thick material. Even with that the sideways jog is no good for top end airflow, which is why the adapters limit any intake for overall hp. That goes for 2v, 3v, 4v.....

 

Well I got my motor and tranny dropped in last night. Along with the manifold and a few accessories. I need to find the idler arm and puller since it didnt come with it, and a few little things. Its starting to get exciting. Should have it done later this week/weekend.


Ill keep ya posted and post an Iphone camera pic soon

 

Is there a 5.4 swap guru who I can PM wih a few questions? I posted a few back about 5 posts.
Really would like to see a lsit of what parts I wouold need and what parts on the current 4.6 I can use.
I did find out the '99 and later 5.4's had 260HP and 345lbs./ft. of torque at 2300rpm! The extra torque 1700 rpm's sooner must be a whole different feeling, huh? I was told to stay '01 or sooner as they are strong but not as heavy as the later blocks, correct?
I'll start reading the whole thread but if there is a guy who doesn't mind answering some questions please PM me. THX! Mark

 

I would think the '99 to '01 5.4 would be best. They have PI heads, and the timing cover should have the bolt holes for the power steering pump, the later models don't. The earlier 5.4's dont have PI heads but have a forged crank. I think they started the NVH (heavier) blocks in '03.
If you can get a complete motor it would save you alot of headache trying to find odds and ends.

As long as you have a 4R70W you should just need to buy an 8 bolt flexplate, if you're lucky you might be able to find a motor with one already on it. As far as I know the converter pattern is the same, since they put that tranny behind 5.4's also.

I cant really say about the SVO but still, adapter plates arent going to help the flow.

The wiring and COP's should all hook up exactly the same. It should run without a tune but better with one of course.

I looked on karkraft and I see the have complete 3v 5.4's and 2v short blocks but if you want to keep it simple, I'd try to find a complete 2v

You'll want to swap the (stock?) exhaust manifolds and have to modify the mid-pipe to fit (wider) the oil filter housing, and the heater tube (that's under the intake) from the 4.6. The last two were just from my experience, might not be in all cases.

 

Is it because only 11 guys have comleted the mod that no one will accept some PM's with questions? I may need to follow up on answers as I need to be sure this is the right thing.
I have tosend ALL of the work out due to a disability( 3 back surgeries-facing a fourth). What I want to do is have the new motor done and have the shop simply swap them.
I would like it if the shop didn't get any surprises.
My vehicle is a '99 Mustang.
1. Will the harness of the Mustang work, INCLUDING the COP's?
2. I understand the ECM burn for the new motor so if that is what is needed, no porblem.
3. Do automatic trucks have the 8-bolt flywheel as the stang is a 6-bolt? I guess if the 8-bolt is not drilled for the 10" converter I use that holes could be drilled.
4. What are the oil pan baffles that are needed?
5. I would like to use the SVO intake I have on the stang now with the adapter plates, any issues with the plates? I know that the plates are not the best but the SVO is an expensive piece and is all metal, similar to the Bullitt, huge lower plenum, dual 57mm throtle blade.

The idea of 345lbs/ft. of torque @ ONLY 2300rpm sounds amazing! To the guys who have completed the mod what does THAT feel like in the lighter Mustangs compared to trucks!!!??? I am thinkng of removing the 4.10's and going back to the stock 3.27's and still have great pull with the right cam. I want to build for MORE torque as what I want is an interstate cruiser that will be able to ascend the hilly RT. 81 and be able to pass a line of semi's in a single bound!
4. THX

 

Thanks, this is helpful info. I have a local yard that sells complete running motors for $160. if you pull them yourself.
I have looked for Coils there before but never checked for a 5.4 but am going today. Pulling a motor from a truck would be much easier than from a car due to the extra space. The year info is great also.
Are adapter plates THAT bad? I mean has anyone actually had them on a dyno and compared them or is it just the idea that they are not as good as a manifold that bolts right up. The SVO probably doeos not have the greatest transition from npi to pi but the motor has hit 7000rpm before(likely why it has a weak cylinder)! I guess I would have to see the plates to decide that.
I am not looking at building a race motor and will likely never see the track. As stated I want an interstate cruiser, put my 3.27's back in and sell the 4.10's I am runing now. Why not just run the 4.6 oil pan and if a reason not to then what are the baffle mods needed? That is where a sticky with some pics would be great and get some other guys interested in this swap perhaps.
The idea of that much torque at such a low rpm is what attracts me. Less gear required and with a compression raise to the 10.x:1 region with the right cam and the ultimate interstate cruiser! I'll let you guys know what I find. They do have a Lincoln 4v for $160. also! Cool, later, Mark

 

the baffles on the 4.6 will touch the bottom of the 5.4 crank. all you need to do is push them down 1/4". as for the exhaust, if you have aftermarket midpipe you can just brute force it abou an inch wider to boltup. and use the 4.6 oil filter adapter so it sits sidways instead of down where it can get hit. everything else is bolt-on from the 4.6. it will run fine without a tune, but i suggest to get one to make it run smoother and et better mpg on the hway. you can pm any questions u have if i missed anything...

 

Well right now the adapter plates are the only real option, so kinda hard to compare.

On the oil pan, I forgot to mention it, I think you do have to swap them too, and from what I understand the issue with the baffle just requires alittle adjusting with a hammer, as in tapping it out of the way and test fitting it to make sure it doesnt hit.

I assume the Lincoln 4v is out of a navigator? if so, there are afew more intake options, mostly race stuff though. But then you DO have to mess with the wiring for the whole 2v to 4v conversion. I'll leave that alone though

Are you planning on rebuilding it or just swapping it in? Regardless I would consider a set of forged rods, especially if you spun that 4.6 to 7k, good insurance.

 

I thought I left you a pretty concise response thru PM over on the corral, that's why I have not really re-answered a lot of the questions you had. On your comment about all that torque at 2300 rpm... you have to remember that power curve has a lot to do with the truck intake manifold. It has real long runner lengths that help to boost low end torque. When you swap to a mustang manifold with the adapter plates, you shift that torque curve up the rev range to get a torque peak at roughly 3500 rpm. Your question about which cams to run with... the stock ones will work just fine (as they work in millions of trucks right now) but with the added stroke vs. the 4.6 the 5.4 really does benefit from more duration. I would say at the very least, use the Comp 262AH grind. That should not shift up your torque peak further in the rev range and realy pick up some good numbers for hp. The combo I am running with the stock intake and throttle body and Comp 270AH cams I got 261hp @ 4700 & 327 tq @ 3750. At the flywheel that is roughly 305 hp and 380 tq .
As for a list of parts needed for your shop to do the work:
5.4L engine (obviously) - if you can find a low mileage that does not need rebuilding, all the better
intake adapter plates
8-bolt flexplate
cams (if you decide to upgrade them)
your shop should have the capability to chop & re-weld the midpipe to fit. If they cant, I'd reconsider using that shop.
Tune - you really cant run the stock 4.6 tune because the added displacement will really mess up how it calculates load at the engine. That load calculation drives just about all parameters including your shift cycle in the automatic.
Sorry for the long post, but I hope this answers more of your questions.

 

J. Scott you did answer the questions I asked on the other forum and again I thank you for the extra info you left here. I simply can't read this many pages for some time and I am not about to make the same mistakes I made with the 4.6 spending a chunk to go .47 quicker and 4-5mph faster.
I am taking a different approach with the torque though. As I have stated here my 4.10's could go and the 3.27's be put back in. I read here where the thread started found forged rods on ebay for $3xx.! Not sure how old this thread is off hand but that is a great price.
So, I am taking notes.
Stock Mustang oil pan modified-no probelm, same with the exhaust-stock mustang manifolds and have the mid pipe widened. How about the difference between H and X pipes? I seem to recall that the H-pipes are more torque oriented and the x's more for revs, true?
Oil filter adapter I will have to look into as I am not familiar with that.
Adapters and use my SVO is cool or perhaps sell the SVO and go back to the stock intake after I find out which has more torque to offer. However the SVO has the coolant mod done and mods to the water pipe under the intake were made for the fit of that. Coil on plug still able to use is a plus along with then stock ECM and a reburn, no issue there. Will need to find an 8-bolt flexplate.
Since my 4.6 has a weak cylinder I still have time but the plan iis to have the 5.4 ready for replacing the 4.6 when needed or by spring of 2009 whichever comes first!
J. You re still making a good amount of torque at a much earlier rpm than the 4.6 with even the mild cams you chose which was a smart move. My SHM cams are way too big for an automatic but they were free in effect so thought I would try them after Scott who worked for Sean Hyland said the cams and SVO intake were a good match but above 5000rpm was not mentioned.
Yeak I ask a lot of questions and will ask again and make this a sure, well done project. 300whp and 400wtq would be nice but perhaps asking too much NA? Thanks to all for the tips and expanding on the said tips so I understand what the mods entail.
Getting the compression up to 10.x:1 is something I will want to look into also.
The 4V Lincoln is in a '93 Lincoln, first year I believe. I will stay 2v to keep it simple

 

2v4now;

that car is BEGGING for a 3.4l whipple...

just say'n

 

I've read through most of the thread and here is where i'm at right now.

Last week my motor was hydrolocked and its being replaced. I'm thinking really hard about doing the 5.4. What i'll be doing is ordering a long block and from the site I found these are my options.


330/5.4 V8 00-01 L E Series (Econoline Van), Triton V8, SOHC,RWD, Block #F75E-6015-AG, Head #XL3E-6090-C2DD, P.I. heads DFCK $2,999

330/5.4 V8 00-01 L F250 & F350 Super Duty ONLY, Triton V8. Vin L. SOHC. RWD. Block #F75E-6015-AG. Head #XL3E-6090-C2DD, P.I. Heads. DFCJ $2,950

330/5.4 V8 02-03 L E Series (Econoline Van), Triton V8, SOHC, RWD, Block #2L1E-AD, Head #2L1E-D20A, P.I. heads DFCP $2,999

330/5.4 V8 02-03 L F Series, Expedition, NOT for Superduty, Triton V8, Block #2L1E-AD, Head #2L1E-D20A, P.I. Heads DFZ4 $3,075 $450

330/5.4 V8 02-03 L F Series, Superduty, Excursion, Triton V8, Block #2L1E-AD Head #2L1e-D20A, P.I. Heads DFCS $3,075 $450 02-03


I know I could buy a used block cheaper but i've been paying insurance to my company for 10 years and this is the first claim i've ever turned in so i'm letting them foot the bill and i'm not worried about the cost so much.

A couple of questions that I have.

Out of those choices would one be preferable? I copied and pasted all the 5.4's with PI heads and I wonder if they're the same as the ones on my car currently?

I know I have to do the intake adapters which is no big deal.

Will the 8 bolt flexplate make everything kosher with my tranny (3650)

The last thing i'm wondering about is the oil pan... With a long block am I going to need to swap them and if from what I understand tapping the baffles to flatten them out a bit is no big deal?

Basicly I just had these few questions and I wanted to try and get them all squared away so when I go and talk to the shop I can say "Here's what I want to do and these are the only things that aren't a completely bolt on swap"

Anything im missing?

Great thread full of info and I hope to get the ball rolling next week if I can get these questions answered.


Thanks a ton in advance guys I apreciate it

 

Hey Dangan good for you and the insurance! DON'T take my advice but I just want to see if I have learned anything. As I understand it you would want either of the first 2 you listed with '00-'01 blocks as the blocks are lighter than the later version and are still very strong.

On another note I have seen forged rods, pistons(339grams) and rings on ebay for $788. What do the stock pistons weigh?
The pistons are .020" over. Sounds like a good deal.

Dangan good luck and hope you go with the 5.4 and can add to the number of guys who have done the mod on this thread and have some interesting feedback to share!

 

PM me!
I'll awnser Q!

 

sorry I'm kinda unresponsive lately... I just started a new job and the first thing I have to do is move the whole company 10 miles up the road with 1 week's notice. Kinda stretched a bit thin.

 

wow, that sux... one word... OVERTIME!!!!!

 

Has the hard ball r intake been delayed? Because im sure it was supposed to be released by now...?

 

Guys, quick suggestions/opinions. Karkraft has bare aluminum 5.4 blocks with stock bores for $443. to my door. They also have rebuilt Lightening short blocks for $1895. plus shipping available. They have forged pistons but the stock powder rods and about 9.5:1 compression.
EBay has forged pistons(339grans/rings and forged rods/H-beam called ACE(?) for $788. With the bare block I could get forged rods and the higher compression I would like. However I would need more parts to comlete the motor such as the front cover/crank. I plan on getting a set of heads done whether even a set of the infamous Patriots to one of the better known shops that specialize in modulars. Looking for the ultimate interstate cruiser but I am hard on my vehicles so the forged rods could be a benefit even though the stock rods may be all that I would need!
This is going to be a project that as stated before I want to do correctly from the start.
I plan to do the 5.4 as cash allows and then get the Mustang to the shop and have them do the swap useing as many of the 4.6 pieces as possible.

Right now with the info I have given what are your opinions, bare aluminum or wait and get a short block but never know what they(karkraft) will have as they change inventory constantly. I am leaning towards the aluminum bare 5.3 block myself for the options it would allow and aluminum is lighter and my car is a convertible. Thanks and am sure pleased I found this thread and am even excited as I haven't done a motor in a few years and having a specific goal of as much torque as possible is nice too!

If you need to ask a question or 2 please do! THX, mark