Hey R3D,

You're hookin everyone up w/ some fat Sims. think you could help re-assure me that my turbo cams are the only reason my 5.4DOHC is suffering a lot of power. ? Do you have data on the 01 DOHC heads? And someone told me my compression ratio is 9.72:1... surely thats not right is it? Where can i get the volume specs of the heads so i can calculate it?

 

I wish my truck was suffering a lot of power.....

 

Use either 54cc for the chamber volume.

Turbo cams (wide LSA) will not work well in a 5.4. However, you don't need to buy new cams to fix the power "lot" (you do mean loss right?).

What intake? What are the cam specs?

What pistons are you using?

You have a CR of 9.469 if you are using flat top pistons without valve reliefs and 1.2 compression height.

 

Comp 270's cams $300 what do you think or just custom grind?

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/995285211.html

 

It would help if you listed your other mods..

 

suffering a lot of power... meaning i'm missing a bunch.. yeah, a loss... whatever.
Manley Flat top pistons
Sullivan intake
Sean Hyland Motorsport Turbo Grind Cams (the following is all i know):
lift intake: .474, lift exaust: 0.474
intake duration: 235, exaust duration (@.50): 235
i really dont have a clue what that @.5 means,.. and it makes me feel like an idoit who shouldnt have done this anyway. these cams are so friggin agressive the car has a very difficult time holding idle, and if i push in on the clutch after revving it up real high it goes ka-putz. and now somethings wrong w/ the new tubular a-arms and ball-joint.. sounds like a bucket of bolts up there... 'll have to re-investigate that tomorrow.
I'm so mad at this car right now...
GET THIS: just got back from the dragstrip, and i ended up in the gravel pit because the car died on me when i put it in neutral after the 1/4mile, and by the time i got it started i was 60mph 100ft from the pit. probably entered the pit at 40... AHHH... i hate this car.

 

Is it tuned? There's acouple things that can be adjusted in the tune to help with that, and you're probably gonna have to bump up the idle up to help the driveability. You have to make some compromises to go fast.


Let me see if I can sum this up, Its the measurement of the first .050" of the valve opening to the last .050" before the valve closes.
What kind of bushings do they have?

 

yes it has been tuned... sometimes the idle will hold 1500/1700 rpms, but not all the time, sometimes it will drop to 8/900 and shake the car (which no doubt is cool). of course if its at 8/900 it can hold idle too but its trying hard to do it, so as you might imagine, after a pitfall from 6500rpms ... it might not make it out alive. (ha.. .nice metaphor)

Interesting info about the duration... i understand what you’re saying, i guess what i didn’t understand was if the same applied to the intake or not (because it was only specified on the exhaust duration) and note: i did not typo, it said @ .50:
http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/...m_profiles.pdf

all stock rubber was replaced with polyurethane.

 

ibanez.. did your sim but the results were confusing. I'm pretty sure it's being a PITA about the head flow so I have a little research to do. If you're having idle trouble try adding 10% fuel to all the maf counts below 500 in the tune. That helped mine... didn't stop the stalling thing (which is related to another few settings on my setup) entirely but really helped smooth out the idle.

 

I'd talk to who ever tuned it and get them to make some adjustments. Is it throwing any codes? Other than the obvious idle speed and spark adjustments, I'd get them to bump the decel fuel shut off RPM scalar up, should help with the stalling. I'd check it over for vaccum leaks or anything else thats not as it should be.

 

A few days ago one of you mentioned that 3v's could use 2v headers with an adapter plate. But you never mentioned the difference between the 2v's and 3v's. Is it port shape, or do they have different bolt patterns?

 

muawhaa waa wa wa... i'll print this page and hand it to the dyno tune guy... he's real good, but iduknow... problem is that i have to take a day off work to get it to him.

I just had my mechanic give it a inspection sticker and we couldnt stop laughing at all the "not available"'s and that he didnt have 5.4DOHC to choose from for the engine selection on my mustang. the dyno guy turned off all the things except the EGR.. which just shot a code today, yesterday when we plugged it up it said "Not Ready" and down here (to-date) you can have 2 -"Not Ready"'s he told me that i was surely soon to get a visit from the Check ENgine fairy, and sure enough... poop ...

did weigh my car at the track last night... i've got 3 heavy JL amps, and a 10W7 in a box probably all weighing 150lbs... and dynomat from the firewall to the trunk and it still weighed only 3580... why is the 97/98 so much lighter than the 96? both should have had the same stuff? My mechanic's car is a 96 i believe with a Windsor bottlefed with 520+rwhp and he originally weighed in at 3900lb.

 

I'd get him to cut the EGR off too, then it wont throw a code

 

The LSA is too wide on the 270s. Custom is the only way to go for a 5.4.

 

quick question for you guys; with the MM tubular k member, do you have to buy the whole kit or can the factory suspension be reused with just the tubular k member?

 

Thank you, saved me $300

 

BOSS330 told me to check the compression, and after i told him it was 90psi, he told me he was suprised that the engine was starting... .he said the problem is somewhere in the heads. Does anybody else have thoughts that they can share? He said stock Navi heads should have 160-170psi. Could this be caused by my camshafts? What should i do?

 

Cams could cause it if they werent degree'd correctly. What all has been done to the heads?

 

MM's k-member requires their A-Arms which require a coil over conversion. AJE makes a k-member and A-Arm set that allows you to retain the stock spring setup. In order to go to a tubular k-member you should plan on converting to coil over. It's a small additional expense that has HUGE returns if it's set up properly. Please refer to the suspension section for more help on that.

You can use a stock k-member with MM arms (with a set of small clearance cuts) but not the other way around.

The only anecdotal data I have for cam choice that's useful is:
car with xe270's, adapter plates & PI intake, longtubes, stock bottom end, stage 2 heads : 330/356
car with xe278's, custom no-runner intake, longtubes, stock bottom end, stage 3 heads : 340/340 (tuner said there's a little power still on the table but the car SMOKED a H/C/I equipped ws6 from a dig and a roll)
every other car with cams and no longtubes : 250-300hp/321-390tq

I don't think either of those cams is perfect by a long way but both turned out stunning results with heads that were up to the task, longtubes and a decent tune. To say they're no good is overstating things... they're just not "perfect" both have been shown to be able to make some really happy numbers. No cam without longtubes seems worth it at all.

did you have a valve job done to them? Definitely have a problem with that little pressure.

 

Both. 3V uses D-shaped ports (though this means nothing as the point of d-ports is to have a slight mis-match) and the bolt pattern is the same as 2V, just rotate the bolt holes 45° so that's it's vertical.

 

Interesting.. Thanks for the info. So how much are the adapter plates?

 

Were the cams degreed?

 

Those results aren't stunning considering that a 281 cubic inch motor can make very close to that with a stock bottom end...especially the torque.

 

i dont know ANY 281 ci motor that can make that much torque with those mods. imagine using the hps intake thats actually made for the swap....

 

Is is really that big of a deal?? It's gotta be better than stock. Plus at half the cost of a pair of custom cams, the bang for the buck factor should be considered. If he was trying to build a pro-stock 5.4, then yeah. Most of us are trying to do the best we can on a budget.

 

It all depends on how much he's willing to spend and how much more power he wants out of it. Yes, they are half the price but there is also a lot of work that has to be considered also. If it were mine spending an extra $300 would be worth the added expense. However, he's on a tight budget, or just wanting a little more power over stock, then the $300 cams are a good choice.

 

Not a 100% sure on how much they cost but I believe Logan Motorsports sells them. If you want a definitive answer, PM the guy who did the swap (I want to say that 3V2000GT is his sn). Personally though, for a 5.4 swap, it would make more sense to take 5.4 2V headers, cut the flanges off, and put 3V flanges on to save space. Every 1/2" counts.

 

mega true... there's precious little clearance to begin with.

 

Any chance you guys might produce them with 3v flanges?

 

All they need to do is make the flanges big enough to carry both bolt patterns, no need to make 2 separate headers.....get on it R3d......