For the step headers, I was looking at the piece from Hedman, is that good choice for the 5.4? I'm just worried that the 1-1/2" tubing before the step might be too constricting for it.

 

just remember, race parts go on race cars and you'll be ok.

 

i think i am gonna try to 'modify' some LT's to fit in my engine bay. i've wanted LT's for along time.

 

how is everyone else doing on thier projects? haven't heard from anyone lately...

 

I'm almost done hogging out my intake. Once that's done and it's port matched to the adapter plates then it should be ready to send the block heads and intake to MMR and have them slap it all together.

I only get sunny weekends to work on it so it's taken a hit in the timeline recently. How's yours doing?

 

pulling the kmember off the send back since they put 5.0 mounts on it. so, i'm stuck for a week or two.
but i did get a 90mm lightning maf and 39# injectors.

 

see... nothing is ever a bolt on. hahah. it just never works out 100%. The maf will really make your tuners life a lot easier. Have you thought about a HPS or maybe a P51 intake? It'll really wake the motor up, especially with the cams. The stock plastic stuff will definitely limit it.

Should we start the betting on final output?

 

once i get it running i'm gonna get a intake. i just can't afford one right now.
as for power, i'm not gonna assume anything cus it will be lower then expected. so we will see when it rolls the dyno...

 

Well... once I'm done porting my intake (trying to finish by next weekend) do you want to do a dyno comparo with it and some of my plates against the plastic and yours? That'll at least give you proof of what you can expect from it with only the costs of shipping a 35lb block across the country twice. The HPS intake is a neato piece. the damn thing is sick strong.

 

Hey,
I'm considering having this work done on my 97 over the summer while i'm away on WESTPAC and when i return have the car all ready to go and done....I'm trying to find out the exact price from JDM for their alumin block...this is what they told me "The block itself is machined to fit in a lightning truck is $4195 full assembled and blue printed/balanced goes for $6795 plus necessary use of our oil pan along with a few other parts for fitment. Comes out to about $7800 for all parts. This shortblock will handle 1500 HP however and comes 1 year warrantied." do you all think this is a good idea to do this..i've read this thread from head to toe...and it talks about a intake issue that is trying to be corrected not to sure red...if it's been fixed yet/made...please let me know what the status is so i can tell the shop so they can order it or i guess fab..it up so it will work...and if i understand right then i'll have to get a cobra r hood to have it fit???...thanks for taking the time to read this...

 

that's insanely high for just a block. why don't you stick with an iron block and save yourself 3K bucks. Hell you can order a MMR or VT or Steen longblock with ported heads and all the goodies and you won't have to transfer much from your old engine.

The stock intake just sucks and needs adapter plates to fit. Call Reichard Racing and order a set of their plates. Call Hi Performance Solutions and get one their 4.6L intakes and ask them to port it for you.

 

since i plan to abuse my motor, i prefer an iron block.

 

i was thinking about more of the weight saving side of it...but if you don't think that it's worth that amount of money to do that then i can grab an iron block and handle business...what do you think of stroking and etc..do you think it's worth it...or should i just stay with the standard block and all..thanks for taking the time to read this....

 

the weight isn't enough to justify the cost. Stroking it is ok but you lose a bit of longevity thanks to significantly increased side loading of the pistons.

I'd say if you want more than 330 cubes then bore it 20 or 30 over. If you want a full 6 litres, then do the stroker. It's only gunna cost more. I would personally leave the iron block in the plan, bore it over 10 or 20 and have it filled with the best stuff you can afford and assembled by Boss330 or a similarly skilled outfit.

 

The stroke on the 330 is equivelant to some big blocks but it isn't a bad plan provided that the kit you get doesn't change the rod ratio dramatically (rod length/stroke). If it remains basically the same as stock, then the side affects such as side loading will be reduced. However, I don't think there is one out there that meets this criteria. However, you can always get it sleeved...

 

that's wonderful i can do that then....my biggest thing is i have a chevelle to race back home that has a 454 boreded out to a 502...and i want to beat him and i'm wondering how much HP can i get out of this motor with out SC..i will SC later but for now i'm trying to see how much i can get...it seems the most that people have typed is around 400rwhp or so..not to sure if i can do more then that or not and stay on pump gas ca 91....thanks for taking the time to read this....

 

i know that the compression would probably be to high to be boost friendly and i would have to probably use C-16 or so to use a SC and I was thinking about using a paxton or vortex for that application I was orignally going to go KB but if i'm already pushing a lot of TQ then I don't see the reason for using a KB...but I'm trying to beat the 502...N/A and not with my SC not sure if it can be done though...then i have a 06 350Z on my ship that I want to beat as well...ohh and r3dn3ck i already have P/P PI heads so I'm trying to stay with them so I don't have to pay for it to be done again...and where is Boss330 located...thanks for taking the time to read this...

 

forgot you're in so-cal. Call up MMR (modular mustang racing). They're around LA and they've got a decent rep.

beating a 502 powered chevelle can be either easy enough or next to impossible. Depends on the 502's build. With your ported heads and a good build on a 5.4 you'll be able to run solid mid-low 12's. If the chevelle is faster than that, then slap in a 150 shot of nitrous and you're down into the 11's if you can launch and drive. Beating a 350z is easy enough in a stock 99-04... especially from a dig. They have no tq.

 

hey r3dn3ck...should i even try to put a SC on it...cause i know the comp...would be high on a built 5.4...and would i be right by chosing a pax/vort....and I can bring the car up to the Bay area since im from there and leave it with my dad when i go on PAC or I could just wait till I get back and then get all the work done...i was hoping to be able to beat that Chevelle NA to NA but like you said it's either easy or impossiable...I'm not sure what his build is exactly all i know is it's like every other time he takes it out he breaks something so i'm thinking it's not built all that strong..and his car weights like 1000 more then our right????....thanks for taking the time to read this....

 

the compression will be whatever you make it with your piston/rod choice and head selection. A blower REALLY wakes up a big stroker like the 5.4. A novi2000 or T trim vortech would be a fantastic way to go and will help you in the hood clearance department.

My neighbor runs a chevelle with a 570-something. It's an 8 second car so you know it's a race car by looking but it's also street legal so I've learned to never underestimate them. If your buddy can't make it down the track then you could probably beat him on a bicycle I'd think, that or his car is so brutally fast that it's back to the impossible side and he'll make it to the traps in 10.7 seconds and trap 87mph cuz he broke at 1000 feet. You'll want to find that out.

In any event going that fast is going to require a well built rear end and a hard core tranny. I'd think tko600 and 9" rear end.

BTW... my neighbors car weighs 3000lbs with driver and gas. They look heavier than they are.

As for where you keep it... it's up to you. I know of a couple places you could bring it to, drop it off for 6 months and pick it up with 14 grand worth of work done to it. PM apexmotorsports if you need Bay Area pricing. He's the owner and will take care of you. Tell him Colin sent you. You won't get off super cheap but the reference will help and they do good work.

 

Not done, but very very close...

 

sweet... i got to see dyno numbers

 

http://www.imboc.com/forums/showthre...eferrerid=8750

 

that's bloody wild. What are you looking at... 17-19lbs of boost? that car is going to be absurdly fast. And a shot of nitrous on top of all that. <bows>

EDIT: That guy is local to me. I've referenced his car a few times. I have a problem with grafting a NA upper to a FI lower. THe lower wasn't ever really intended to be used NA and isn't optimized for it. There are sure to be some flow issues and he's losing tq with the super short runners. Nonetheless, it's an insane car and makes killer power for a 9.7:1 compression motor.

 

i'll be at a consistant 25#'s of boost.....

 

gulp!

 

That looks so good... wow...bout how much do you think you have NA....but man that's a lot....what kind of hood do you have to put on it...hey R3d...what's the most you've seen or read for a NA 5.4...just so i have an idea of what i can do...i'm gonna have bout 15-20k to spend on this setup for the course of my 6month deployment.....and how does the compression numbers work with a SC....meaning like how much compression can a certain octane take..if my motor is 11.1 compression then i add 10lbs of boost then what octane would i have to use...and is there a formula for that...thanks for taking the time to read this....

 

there's no perfect formula since many things affect dynamic compression. I go by a simple rule of thumb I've come to trust:

count each lb of boost as one point. Past about 19-20 points things become tough to tune for pump gas. Start with your rated static compression... say 9.8:1, add 10lbs of boost and you get a value of 19.8. You can tinker with the points by adding an intercooler or methanol injection which count for (in my book) about 2-3 points each. Keep your points under 20 and you should be ok. Go over that and you start looking at needing race gas or octane boosters.

 

look at this someone sent to me off ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-6-a...spagenameZWDVW

wonder if it's worth a crap.

 

Hey,
Does anyone have an idea what the most one could make NA...what's the most anyone one has seen or read about....2V4now what do you think you will be making...and R3d...thanks for that point about lbs/one point of compression...so your saying 91 ca can handle about 19. total..thanks for that insight i will keep that in mind...thanks for taking the time to read this....