so what kind of numbers from long tubes and an off-road pro chamber with 40 series flowmasters?

 

I'd still count on 30+ with your cam. I'd really bounce the flows and get something straight through though for your mufflers. The cams and the longtubes and prochamber are going to resonate your **** off as it is, the flows are really a restriction. Hell I'm already feeling sorry for your nutz.

Look into swapping someone for a set of magnaflows or borlas or weld in a couple 3" cherry bombs. My car resonates pretty bad as it is with the dumps and shorties. Fortunately it's only resonating at idle.

 

Anyone have a link to properly set timing on the 5.4 2v? And R3d, send me that price for those parts pimp, need them asap. Also, how do you rotate the cam to get it in sequence? Specialty tool? Available at any parts store? PArt number? Also, I thought I read once about the chains having a gold link? Damn if I see them on mine?

 

r3dn3ck, 108 pages on a swap, well you got me in as well now. I'll be putting that 2002 5.4 lightning super charged engine in my 00 mustang after feb.Thank you for your reply on Ebay (focus 255lhr fuel pump).

 

how about 20 + 15 shipping and I'll send you all the arms and the tensioners and a spare set of lower cam gears and a few other odds and ends.

Chief, welcome aboard. Now that you're on board with us in the swap crew you're entitled to my special deals. See my ads in the classified and if you find any parts you need make an offer and we'll do a deal. I sell cheaper here than on ebay. Special deals for the bro'z and all.

 

Works for me, now answer my questions in that post WOMAN! lol

EDIT: noticed you have that NOS kit that sits between the inj and intake, you wanna sell it? I know you do damnit!

 

which post?

and no nitrous for you. Custom kit... doesn't play well with others.

 

 

ahh... you can use a solid adjustable lash adjuster to precision time them or if they're non-stock cams then they usually come with a nut cast into the body that you can get a wrench on.

Just following the assembly protocol from the Chiltons manual will get it to running time. To get precise you'll need a proper dial indicator. You'll need to line up the timing marks from the lower gears with one of the casting marks on the block to set the pistons to safe mode, then you can slap the sticks in and torque them down. There's a really good procedure on Corral IIRC. I had MMR do mine. You could use some Fidanza gears if you want to advance/retard them.

 

This is just the junk engine with stock cams, really dont wanna waste time degreeing them in. I was asking is there a procedure to time up a stock motor, ie: what they would do at a dealership OR what was done from the factory. Keep reading to line up the gold colored links, but damn if I see them

 

Heads are back just working on porting chambers to unshroud the valves and lay back any sharp edges.

 

I've never seen gold links on the chain. I've lined up the timing marks and such with casting marks on the block but that's about it. I'd post up on the corral and someone will hit you with a link.

 

i have a timing tool kit for sale for 100 bucks...... lol

 

What is a "timing kit"? Damn whatever happened to lining up the dots HAHA

 

there should be a solid lifter and a lobe stop. It's worth it...buy the kit.

 

EDIT: appears to be an adjustable lifter(cake to make) and a rocker with a tab welded on. What is the tab for?

 

last kit I saw had a little plate that interfered with the cam to stop the thing turning.

 

Well guys I did it - no more mustang for me, I got an 05 GTO.

It was hard to do, and I miss the Mustang (never got to say goodbye) but man that 6 liters of fury sure makes it fun.

MY motor is still for sale BTW..

 

The lash adjusters and followers are set into placed. Many opt to install these after the cams are in place, however that will require the use of a special Ford spring compressor tool to enable the follower to fit under the cam lobe. This method is easier and acceptable.
Before putting the cams in place position the crankshaft so that the keyway is straight up in the 12 o'clock position. This is considered "safe mode" and unlike on most pushrod motors this ensures none of the pistons are at Top Dead Center (TDC). This is important because once the cams are torqued down there will be valves hanging open that can contact a piston in the up position.
The cams come in two boxes and are unique to the left and right side of the motor. Be sure to check the engraving on the cam to ensure you've got the right cam on the right head. With the cam lightly oiled, or lubed with moly, set the cam girdles (or caps in the case of a Windsor head) in position. Snug the bolts down evenly and then torque to 89 lbs.in. Read that carefully, if you torque to foot-pounds you'll break and warp the caps.


Prior to installing the camshaft timing sprockets transfer over the spacers from the stock cams. Then slide on the gears aligning the keyway. The stock gears have the key cast into the sprocket while the Fidanza gears (shown) utilize a separate key. We had to cut the keys down to be flush with the gear because our spacers did not have a keyway slot. We suspect that some 4.6L motors (maybe from the Windsor Engine Plant) utilized a slotted spacer which enables for a longer key. We'll pass this along to Fidanza, maybe they can through two sizes of keys into the package.
Comp Cam's utilize M12x1.50mm bolts to retain the cam gears. These are also TTY bolts and while they should not be reused we know many guys do. The wiser choice is to just get a new set. We're using ARP#256-1001, it's the same bolt that holds the harmonic balancer so pick up three. Use the stock hardened washer behind the bolt. You'll need to hold the cam steady with a big wrench as shown and torque the ARP bolts to 60 lb.ft. Make sure that crank is set to safe-mode before you turn the cam!
The next step is to get the cams phased to the crankshaft position. This is done by installing the timing chains. Unlike on a pushrod motor where you simply line up the crank and cam gears and get the chain on, on overhead cam motors the idea is the same but the way you carry it out is a little more complicated to the fact you have two cams, four gears, and they are spread apart. Lay the chains out on a bench and fold them in half. You can fold them so the factory copper links are at each end. Cole recommends marking each end link of each chain with a paint mark to aid assembly.
Install the driver-side chain first, as it goes on the rear crank sprocket. Then install the passanger-side chain. Line up the red marked end links with the timing marks (NOT the keyways!) in the crank and cam gears. You may need to turn the cam shaft to make this happen. Don't turn the crank as it should be keyway-up in safe mode.
Shown is the timing mark on the crank sprocket. There is one mark but two sprockets. The end links (red marks) must line up dead on with this mark. Note that this timing mark is not the keyway.
On the cam gears the read mark must line up with the 0-degree timing mark. Again do not confuse this with the keyway. Note the 12 degrees of advance or retard possibility with the Fidanza cam gear. We'll discuss degreeing the cams on page 3.
Install the timing chain guides and tensioners (page 3 for tips on this) and perform a final check of all the timing marks. The chains wont have full tension until the tensioners are filled with oil, but there is enough to turn the crank now without worry of damaging a valve or piston.
Before installing the timing cover be sure to install the crank trigger wheel.

 

outstanding post cdj.

 

Thanks for the very informative post bud, I had kinda figured out it had to be done this way, however reading your post sure gives me a warm feeling about it being confirmed. Im going to have to slightly modify some of the steps as Im using the navi shortblock, 2v expo timing cover and 99 windsor mustang heads. However, my cousin is the head guru at the local ford dealership and has printed me out all the info on the navi and mustang stuff, so HOPEFULLY Ill be good to go. Thanks again bud!

 

I sent $20 for the parts and $30 for next day shipping. I need this stuff ASAP

THanks man!

 

dealio. I'll ship those out today.

 

Thought someone would be interested in this

F.A.S.T. System for Ford 4.6L/5.4L with EDIS W/ Wide Band O2 pn 30-115010

 

Im new to thread...
just dont post over here at all... just read alot of stuff here good info...
not going to lie i have not read all 108 pages of this thread lol
i read to page 5 before i realised.... wow this started 1 1/2 years ago...

I bought a 5.4, actually bought it from 2Eighty1 who posted above...
bought a GTO

So looks like im going to be a 5.4 now...
I have Patriot 2 stage 2 heads,
VT N/A cams, P-51 intake and a bunch of other stuff....
thats the big mods...

 

check out www.hiperformancesolutions.com/54.html . That may solve your intake issues.

Making a longer crossover for your rails is easy. LMK if you need help with that. Oh yeah.. check email.

Single.. I sent the goodies. Check PM's.

 

thinking im going to drop the P-51 and sell it only has 500 miles on it... and then buy a Hard Ball'r so i wont have the damn adapter plates... and will help with clearance issues...

 

Anyone had any expirences with the BBK shortys and there Mids?
hoping they bolt up... since they both only have 500 miles aswell...

just wondering still trying to make it through all the pages....

 

r3d, if you could could you explain where to grind the stock headers for clearance? I am bolting mine up tonight and would be a great help. Maybe a pic of a stock header with arrows or something LOL

 

I need the goodies for my swap
aka
1. timing cover
2. tensioner for cover
3. timing chains
4. what ever else im going to need probably guides for the chains...