What do you guys think? Plans are for the motor being able to take 1100. What did I forget as far as internals? Any products that would be better to get? Its going to have a turbo and a boost controller so I can run it on low boost on pump and high boost on race gas. The Compression should be some where around 8.5:1. This is going to go into a 99 v6.


Block 250.00 used


Crankshaft 250.00 used


Pistons 599.99
http://www.vtcompetitionengines.com/...15cc-dish.html


Rings 159.99
http://www.vtcompetitionengines.com/...ton-rings.html


Rods 599.00
http://www.lethaldiesel.com/modmax-5...s-p-15539.html


Main Bearing 89.00
http://www.lethalperformance.com/pag...rformance.html


Rod Bearing 81.39
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...H&autoview=sku


Head Studs 205.00
http://www.lethalperformance.com/pag...oint-nuts.html


Main Studs 102.69
http://www.lethalperformance.com/pag...dage-tray.html


B Heads used 250.00

Port/Polish 700.00 ~~~ Upgrade to heads 2200
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/


Clutch 399.95 right one?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku


TKO600 + Bell housing used 1,500.00


Machine Work 400.00


FlyWheel 206.00
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-PR...spagenameZWDVW



Head Gasket 115.95
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku


Gaskets 53.39, 41.39
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...R&autoview=sku


Timing cover 100
Ebay


Timing Chain and Guide kit for 4V 549.99
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/

 

use caution when buying from VT. they aren't what they once were. its still the same machine shop as always, but its only the shop left. all the guys at the "front office" are gone. so you would be dealing with the guys from the machine shop. completely different company now.

but, if all is good with the parts and services now. go for it.

 

Thanks for the advice too slow, I look around for another retailer of those parts.

 

I got a set of 01 cobra heads Ill let you get for a good price if you wanna go this route instead of the b heads(intake choices will be greater with the 01 heads)
Let me know


R3d, keep me updated on the headers. I am ready to throw them on asap if possible.

coprcer, what kinda intake do you have? I might be interested since I havnt found anyone willing to send me a spare PI intake to hack up

 

PM me a price singlesupra, it would be in about 2 months though when I get all my funds together to pay for it all, I just want to be prepared so much that I know the torque value for a headlight bracket!

 

finaltheorem47, I would double check to see if those rods can handle that much power. You may need billit i-beams for your app.

 

those 'b' heads will make outragious power. they don't really suffer from torque losses on 5.4's.

 

a mild 5.4 4v boosted = 600/600.

 

$400, they have been hot tanked and ready for porting. One port has allready been ported. Heads are bare.

 

I'm going to start buying stuff in about 2 months and have it all assembled ready by May and then I hope to swap the engines in a week once summer break starts.

 

cant wait until we have some dyno numbers of the new intake and headers... Do you guys think the 5.4 2v will compete with 4.6 4v? or still the heads choking us too much ?

 

Speaking of headers, R3d heard anything about getting one of each side?

 

still working on getting some R&D samples. It's hard as hell to get on the phone with anyone that could possibly help. Harder yet to make them want to.

The 5.4 2v vs. 4.6 4v discussion has been had in other threads. Let's not take it here. There are a lot ways that they're both capable of some pretty nasty numbers. Fact of the matter though is the tq curve on the 5.4 will generally be more robust in the first half than a 4.6 4v powerful enough to make similar ET's on the same setup (measure performance on race tracks, dynos are for tuning). That for me makes the 5.4 a better choice on the street. As you decrease displacement you have to increase rpm to make similarly powerful engines. Dammit... see this is why we race on racetracks and not on dynos.

Final, you need to consider what you're building a 1100hp car for. It's totally unstreetable. The thing is going to need constant maintenance and infusions of cash, and just about every time you belt out the full monty 1100 ponies you're going to break something. You could never take it to a drag strip without a NHRA licensed driver and a 25.2 chassis cuz if you don't explode the wheels off the car or lose too much traction you'll run 9's. Hate to **** in your cheerios but really take a minute and consider if you can afford to spend $250 for every hour of operation.

 

haha no im looking for a streetable option r3d prolly 5-550 at the wheels just wondering if i build a 5.4 if its a better /cheaper option then the 4v 4.6. Either way im going to need a new engine im thinking/wondering if the prices are compareable...Other then cams of course 4v going to cost some coin.
And the blower bracket was part of the thought as it wont be hard to get a cobra vortech bracket.

I like the 5.4 idea bc its different thinking... and torque is what makes driving fun not quoting dyno numbers.

I know the 4v heads react to forced induction like popeye does to spinache.

 

Cool deal dude, keep me informed

Offtopic(sorta) but when I was hooking up all the electrical connections on the 5.4, on the drivers side near the firewall was a "plug" with a single wire. Kinda hard to explain what it looks like but its the same type of plug that just slid over the oil sending unit on the 5.0 cars(just a single wire, with a elbow on the end that slides over a stud) Any clue where that is supposed to go? Damn if I can see anything it connects to and I just let it hang. Obviously its not "that" important as the car runs great

 

Whats up fellas.... Havent posted here in a while been really busy... Got me a new DD about 3 weeks ago and been buying that mods while my ride is being reworked at Fennell Performance... Here's an updated pic of what's been happening, I was told it'll be done sooner than i thought but to me it doesnt really matter anymore, kinda lost any excitement of it being finished.... Maybe when it's done it'll be a different story...

 

Does it look like this!

I'm sure it's a ground for the harness somewhere. Maybe the injectors?
Or the egr?

 

I'm pretty positive that's the ground wire that connects to a stud on the rear driver side injector rail. In any case, it's definitely a ground.

 

if you can afford the 1000 bucks for cams, double the cost for porting, and the extra little bits you'll need a 4v 4.6 is a nice motor. I think a more satisfying combination comes with more than 281 cubes.

As far as strapping a blower to it, you'll never approach the dyno numbers a 4v is capable of with a 2v but the 2v burns less gas for the same ET's thanks to a much more aggressive tq curve. The 5.4 2v can be upgraded to a 3v or 4v down the road pretty easily so I would do the cubes then the valves so to speak.

 

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/551795334.html

complete lightning blower assembly with intake, wiring, injectors, etc... for 1000 bucks. DO IT NOW!

I'll even go and look it over for you if you're gunna buy it.

 

Sounds like as far as streetable power 2v 5.4 may be the one to pick for max race only power 4v. correct?
If so 2v 5.4 sounds good just waiting on dyno on intake and headers.

Also wondering how much boost you can run on a lightning intercooler before it loses efficiency wondering if i should use it over using my vortech power cooler which is only good until about 14 psi...

 

the blower is the point of efficiency loss, the intercooler is an efficiency gain. Usually taking a stock eaton taken to much past 15psi starts into the area of diminishing returns. Put water wetter in the intercooler and it helps a lot. Add ice on top of that and you can do more boost.

As for the 5.4 2v vs 4.6 4v... still depends on what you want. For me, I'll take a 6000 rpm NA beast over a 7000 NA Beast. For me the tall deck and 2v tq curve make for sweet days. Drive a 4v 4.6... it's going to drive basically the same, perhaps faster but no different really almost without regar to what you do to it. Same goes for a 2v. It's always gunna peak early and face some definite limits on those heads. 3v and 4v upgrades though are pretty easy to deal with later on.

 

First issue with the car last night. After getting on it, it decided to push off one of the heater core hoses off spitting all my coolant out. Might have to look at the diff heater hose, but I swear I dont see a kink in it but never know.

 

Look at this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Musta...spagenameZWDVW

Looks like better quality than my RR plates too. Any thoughts?

 

Yes i understand that an intercooler helps efficiency im saying i already have a "power cooler" (vortech brand intercooler) but its restrictive after 14 pounds(thats why 14 pounds was my goal blower is good to 19 pounds i believe)...was wondering if the lightning one flowed better or perhaps had more cooling fins. So i could push the boost maybe a couple more pounds can always run methanol injection.! But as you said diminishing results past 15 pounds is that limit of the eaton? or limit of intercooler? Can a kb put out much more boost on same intercooler? hrrm got me thinkin...I believe a vortech sq is good to 19 pounds so i dont want to run 19 (give the blower some room for safety rather then run it at redline 19 pounds) maybe 16 or 17 possibly:P
Then again 14 pounds prolly be plenty on a 5.4 2v :P

I run water wetter already but sometimes on street legal nights you can get a bunch of runs in and blower heat soaks. The track frowns on ice aparently bc people are idiots and drip all over track.

I wonder how hot the coolant can get before its not really cooling much at all...i mean its not burning my fingers when i touch it but id say its bath water warm sometimes..(luke warm) maybe a lil cooler...
Maybe a bigger "heat exchanger" ? vortech one is just a lil dinky oil cooler as heat exchanger.
I have not had any breakage or any obvious power loss but i really dont want it to detonate and blow a hole in my block if i saw it comming and shoulda done something about it.

Basically i just saw going to 5.4 2v would be a easy intercooler upgrade using lighning intercooler if it was in fact an upgrade at all. But i dont want to change intercoolers if net gain is zero difference between them. Or perhaps a downgrade.

Hope i was clearer this time. Thanks for the response r3d.

 

I broke my rear end so I picked up an 8.8, but it comes with a 2.73 gear. What do you all think about running a 2.73 gear with my 5.4/auto? I'm running the stock 7.5 3.27 now, am I gonna be disappointed? I'm hoping with my tq I won't need too much gear so I won't notice it.

 

I'd be ok with 2.73's on a commute car or daily driver. Your 1/4 mile times will grow though. It'll definitely have a harder time spinning the **** out of the tires.

Complete: if you're going to run really high boost on the lightning setup a larger front mount heat exchanger is definitely a good idea. The intercooler inside the manifold is quite efficient but to stay that way it needs a good high flowing coolant and a good size HE on the front of the car. If you double the size of the HE then you can add probably 20-30% more boost. You can also use shrouded forced air fans (basically a small but very high efficiency 12v fan) on the HE to add cooling capacity. Twin screw blowers are lots more efficient and can blow more boost than the eaton units for every degree of temp added. You'll have to decide between centrifugal power curves and roots type power curves. I like roots better myself.

The vortech unit is great as well. It's designed to be packaged well so some performance was sacrificed. It's a good streetable setup. If you need more boost but heat is a problem, then increase the HE size and or up the coolant circulation rate through the intercooler. You could even run multiple HE's in series. I'd bet 19lbs would be a pretty easy to tune for if you have multiple HE cores and a higher volume coolant pump for the setup.

 

Those are the final retail design of the plates I was working on for like 2 years. They're a good plate, well made and light weight. They need massive porting (which I'll do for you for 100 bucks) right out of the box and the gaskets are one time use.

If you go the adapter plate route though.... I'll be a sad panda. The intake is almost here and so much better as a solution.

 

I want to run low boost but just bump it up on special occasions, this isn't going to be my daily driver. Its hard to drive 600hp on the street let alone 1000hp. Thanks for the people who post in the thread and R3dn3ck for all the help I've gotten! Oh and your right R3d, I'm still trying to learn stuff though and what I've learned is the HP is easy, building the engine and the car isn't.

 

Thanks r3d