Hey all, new to the board, always loved mustangs since i saw the 2000 R. I always wanted to swap the big 5.4 in a mustang and now i have most of the info to do it. I'm about half way through reading the thread for the second time and i have come up with a few questions about the engine block and projected power.

My goal is to have around 400whp n/a. to do this i know i need high compression(what would be the highest i could safely run), 270 cam, p&p heads and all that. my question is would i be able to get that number in a daily driver 5.4 2v? or would going up to the 3v or 4v be a more reliable way to do it? i would love to stick with the 2v since the new intake is coming out for that.

by the way im in mass where we get 93 octane, if that helps with the compression side of things


sorry for the late night post, im doing an overnight. i work loss prevention and we have to these stupid overnights in stores that have 2 people working, its useless

 

i doupt you will see much more than 350rwhp with any 2v 5.4l N/A

but don't let that be a downer. the whole point to this swap is the torque that comes with it. the HP numbers will never be as polished as the high revving 4.6l counterparts, but the torque will be worth the lower hp numbers.

with 340-350rwhp, and torque to boot, you'll have a much stronger and faster car than a smaller 4.6l with the same hp numbers. maybe even quicker than a 400rwhp n/a 4v 4.6. the 2v heads just don't flow enough to give out spectacular hp numbers. for the high side of 300, you will need 3v or 4v heads.

 

I'm sure the new 5.4 intake will help that situation out. Also, you may want to consider going w/ something more agressive than a 270 to get even more hp out of it. However, you can always consider very mild boost or N2O to hit 400 hp...

 

is setting the timing on the 5.4 roughly the same as the 4.6? if not.. whats different?

 

no chance at 400 from 2v heads. ported 3v or 4v heads will deliver a big hp gain and with the right intake and exhaust should do well lower down too. Problem with yanking big power from 4v is it's twice the price for cams which you will need to hit that number. 3v is a nice option but you're on your own for intakes just yet on the 3v heads.

I'd grab yourself a custom grind cam from VT engines. They cost the same as OTS grinds and you'll make better numbers. If you want to stay 2v and NA, then get a set of race ported 2v heads, have them set up for .600 lift with springs that will hold 6500rpm. Build the bottom end all forged. Flat top pistons will give you 10.75:1 with 46cc cylinder head chambers (means emissions mask has been cut out). That should deliver mid 300's with proper intake and exhaust treatments.

for the final 50-75hp and 70-120tq look to a dry nitrous kit in the 50-75hp range. If you go to a bigger shot like 100-150 then convert to a wet kit.

 

Identical. they're the same engine, just different deck height

 

well, i'm hoping to get mid 300's out of my setup. as soon as i get the long tubes i will see...

 

i just recieved the tool kit to align the cams correctly. so i'mgonna pull the valve covers off and doublecheck my cams just to be sure before i go and flog the engine....

anyone interested in the toolkit for timing the cams on a 4.6/5.4/6.8 i think there were a couple more i can get for a decent price.

 

What are you running for longtubes ?? Im assuming modified 4.6's ?? Sorry, if you posted it earlier I missed it.

 

400 rwhp with ported 3v or 4v will get there easily.

you need 269cfm and 224 @ .050 cams to get there with 4v and bigger cams with 3v.

with 4v and navi heads you have an intake (sully)to use. with 3v you will have to make your own.


if you get full blown 3v or 4v heads and 300+ cfm it's a breeze. realize you are talking 6500 - 7200+ rpm's.

 

Just curious, if the intake is an issue, shouldn't somebody step up to the plate and make 4V-3V or 2V-3V adaptor plates so that you can use those intakes w/ 3V heads?

 

the different heads are all different widths. 2v the narrowest, 4v the widest.

that makes the intake ports different distances apart from each other.

2v intakes will be way too wide to make an adapter.

4v intake would be way to narrow.

sorry, it just can't happen.

 

Keeping on the head topic, I saw an article in the Mustang 5.0 Magazine where a guy threw in a 427 Cammer (you saw that right) in a 05 Mustang. That right there shows you how Ford inefficiantly uses cylinder head space w/ the newer Mod engines. I mean, when a FE w/ SOHC cam heads are the same size as a Mod V8, you know there's something wrong there. A little o/t but I thought it was interesting.

 

oohsoobad2, i'm moddin some hedman headers to use.

as for hp numbers, i have 278's with 1mm bigger valves as well as every bolt on u can think of for the 4.6. i should easily have mid 300's rwhp i'm guessing

 

Adapter plates are a less than optimal solution in the first place. They'd radically alter the air stream path.
yeah... that about covers it.
Ford has a lot of things to deal with in the modern age not the least of which are federal fleet emissions standards. Ford needed to find a more reliable and cheaper to produce engine that would fit in a particular space. The modular family was a comprimise in pretty much every respect which makes them super efficient to make but took a lot of performance hits in trade for parts interchangeability.
w00t. I'm hoping for good numbers from yours. If I can possibly find a place to install mine this month I'll have numbers soon too.

 

Still, I find it funny that an old SOHC FE is the same size as a 4.6 basically.

 

a DOHC 4.6l is physically larger than the 460.

 

Id love to see some pics of the headers when your done with them !!

 

hey guys, i am currently in the middle of installing the timing chains and im having trouble figuring out if i set it correctly... whats a good easy way to identify if ive done it correctly?

 

i posted a link to a site about 15 pages back, maybe page 70ish

 

one link on the bottom gear and the two links at the top. put the arrow at the top gears between the two links.

1. lower gear arrow = exactly on the single gold link.

2. the top gear arrow = exactly between the two gold links.


timed.

GENTLY GENTLY verify timing by hand turning the crank with no plugs. if you feel ANY binding stop and reverify timing.


that's all there is to it. easier than 4.6's.

 

So would a 150 shot be safe with the high compression, like 11:1? when used at the right rpm obviously

 

nothing is every really "safe", but with forged internals and *a perfect tune for the nitrous*, 150 is doable on 11:1 compression. i would consider a higher than pump octane though. again, the tune is key. maybe 93 pump, with a little water/meth that is set up to activate along with the nitrous.

i'll stress it once more, PERFECT TUNE

and you should be good.

 

I'd start nitrous on a 5.4 at a 125 shot and scoot my way up to about 175 max. As long as the motor is built for it...

Compression LOVES nitrous and vice versa. My neighbor runs a 8 second chevelle on 14:1 compression and more than 300hp worth of nitrous with C16 race gas. On a street car drinking pump gas, 11:1 is only going to be helped by nitrous.

 

It's official beyotches:

http://hiperformancesolutions.com/54.html

 

oh yeah!!!!!

i gotta get me one of those...


when are they expected to have some ready?

 

it's not gunna be long. The design is basically just gunna stretch the 4.6 intake out, cut the runners down and big-ups-to-brooklyn the common plenum. I'll bet the runners straighten out a bit towards the ends and the top mount is appearantly going to drop a good slice so stock hoods will fit.

I've totally got a 6 foot boner with a giant cheeseburger on top.

 

too much info man

we are all glad and all, but keep it in your pants. lol

 

i'll call satan this afternoon about selling my soul to get one of the first ones...

 

does any buddy know a way to get the steeda underdrive pulleys to fit? if they even can fit...