hey r3dn3ck, How much work is there in putting a 5.4 crank in a 4.6 block and could it even be done? thanks

 

I heard of that but I think you would need custom pistons made w/ the wrist pin put way up into the oil ring.

 

5.4L crank will NOT work in a 4.6 block. Even if it could work it'd yank the pistons out of the bores on every pass. There are stroker cranks for the 4.6 but those are only small stroke increases... nothing like the 5.4.

Oh... and Apex... I read about that 340 run... 13:1 AF on 91 octane california gas. Half a point lean for my taste. When George has tuned enough cars, then I'll let him tune mine. Till then... I'll do it myself. No n00b tuners thanks.

 

Fair enough... if you needor want our help just give us a ring.

 

Guys... just to clear it up about Apex in case anyone is getting the idea there's friction there. They're my primary tuner. I do have work done by others once in a while but Apex is where I go for most of my work and with good reason. They do good work and the owner is very approachable if there are issues.

They do have a tuner who is well trained by a real pimp in the industry. I just personally won't let someone tune my ride till I know they'll be able to do it perfectly by them having done thousands of well modded cars first. George will get there very soon at the rate Apex does tunes and I have faith in his skills... just not for my car yet.

The only issue I have with 13:1 AF is california's gas is notoriously crappy, limited at 91 octane at the pump most places and I don't see benefit in going leaner than 12.5 on our gas for a couple HP on a dyno chart. 13:1 is brilliant for the bulk of the country where 93 octane flows like water.. just not NorCal IMHO. George is in a better place to make such statements as I'm not a wrench... but this is my place to give my opinions on tech matters so I do. apexmotorsports isn't a wrench either... he's a geek like me with quite a bit of knowldege of his own. If you're in NorCal... Apex is a great place to get stuff done. They've always treated me right.

 

Thanks Colin!

Yup.. I'm a computer geek just like Colin who works in the computer industry here in Silicon Valley. I'm a hard core performance car enthusiats and flat out like ANY car..except Japanese. I definitely would not consider myself a wrench but do know what works pretty good. I'm a pretty straight up kind of guy and if I don't know the answer I won't try to BS you. So, on this board I'll try and contribute as much as I can

 

i know alot from trail and error.... so can tell u what not to do to a mod motor...

 

Well looks like I may change the combo again. Currently I have a 4.6 with a kenne bell on it. How much notching will I need to do to get this thing to fit under a stock hood on a 5.4 with adaptor plates? Guestimation as I am pretty sure this isn't very common.

 

Umm, plan on cutting a hole in the hood

 

I don't think so... I think it'll fit pretty well. It's not appreciably taller than the stock plastic intake. You'll have to watch the throttle wheel and the support that crosses over the rear of the blower housing will probably need some notching but I don't think it'll be significant. If all else fails... a 1.5-2" cowl or cobra R hood and you're golden.

 

my sct kit came in finally. w00t. I'll be going in to get the bung for my wideband welded in on the 16th and then I'll be able to get a base tune set up for my 4.6. I'll be learning myself up a bit more before the 5.4 goes in so I can work with my tuner and be able to speak his language. I've decided to go to Apex for the final tune after taking some time to consider it and talking to some folks. They're still the best ticket in town for tuning and now I know for sure they'll be able to handle it well.

 

Man I wanted to keep the stock hood.

 

If the notching falls in the area of the scoop, you can always notch it and put a 01+ scoop on to hide it.

 

if it comes down to it, another way to fix the issue is to cut out whatever parts of the support frame interfere and then cut channels around the perimeter and weld in a box steel sub structure to take the weight of the hood and keep it from flexing. Then you can cut as much of the center supports out as you need. The hood skin shouldn't need any holes in it.

 

I'm thinking of picking up a FRPP SVO blower like this:



What do you think? I know it's a little undersize for the 5.4 but it's a quick way to 500hp.

 

said screw it... got a NOSzle kit instead. 425 wtih all the goodies. Not bad I think.

 

425? Where'd you get such a great deal?

 

it hurts being perfect. You'll find that I get pretty much nothing but smokin deals. I'm the ultimate bargain shopper. I wait till there's a ludicrously low price for exactly what I want then I strike and get it from someone that just stopped caring or, I manipulate the price using a combination of cat like reflexes, barbarian strength and Einsteinian instincts or I might just be lucking out.

Here's a tip... if you pay retail you didn't try hard enough.

 

I have an 02 hood.

I figure the blower can possibbly sit that much taller. I just want the car to stay looking stock. Once problem though.

On the kenne bell site, the 5.4 blower for the 2v makes less power and tq than the one for the gts. Thoughts? Maybe the tune is more conservative because of the rods??

 

If you're talking about their rwhp numbers it's due to driveline losses. The trucks lose like 30% of power through the driveline. The tune for stock 5.4's will also be slightly more cautious along with reduced boost levels from what you'd expect on a 4.6. Aside from all that... the 5.4 kits seem to rely on 2.2L blowers while the 4.6 gets a 2.1L blower. The added cubes from the 5.4 woudl justify a 2.4-2.6L blower to keep boost levels up at low rpm wtih the large displacement.

So, in short there are several reasons but most have to do with what you should and should not do on a particular engine. A built 5.4 with forged everything will always make more power at a given boost level (at the crank) than an equivalently built and whipped 4.6.

 

I'm pretty sure it'll fit with minimal hassle. If all else fails, slap a couple washers under the hood mounts so the back end lifts up a few degrees. Problem solved. Put another way... there's zero reason for you to not do the swap. Make the power and enjoy yourself.

 

I'm waiting for a intake manifold plate for the 3v heads on a 5.4L
Long as I can find a TT kit that will work with a 5.4L in the GT and 3v heads I'm going to go with a Aluminum GT block, otherwise I'm going with a 4.6L aluminum race block with big bore darton wet sleeves.

 

you know that's a $20K motor right?

 

No its a 2300 block... That will be built into a $12-14K engine.
This summer I'm going to get my engine built by Boss330Racing (Al. P)

Those that don't know who Al is, look up the 1400_ rwhp TT ford GT engine he built. Also notice he has the fastest N/A 5.4L, last private track rental I went to Al ran a new best of I think it was around 9.2 in his SN95 that has the N/A Carbed 5.4L motor in it.

 

so you're wanting to end up with a 3V 5.4 in a stang... damn. I like it! Good thing you know what that motor costs... too often people come in with huge ideas and an empty wallet. You gotta pay to play and the bigger the goal the bigger the bill.

Keep us up on how you're doing.

 

I know all to well what kinda money it takes..
I would say about 10K in mods already with my car.
I just ordered the KW Variant III coil overs for it (only double adjustable I found) and pick up the last of my BMR stuff tomorrow at BMR's shop here in FL. (level 3 control arm package)

If youguys want to talk money, the livernois stage III heads I'm going for (but with titanium intake valves and titanium spring retainers) with a comp cams setup is probably going to run me around 5K and then add install cost.. Yep you can get a built block cheaper. I'm going all out.

I want to see 400 rwhp N/A out of the stock bottom end before I get a built block

 

FINALLY!!!! got my block back today and i'm ready to start installing some slugs into this monster. with the .020" bore i'm figuring it to be 334ci

 

Looks good man. How long till it's running again? I figured about the same displacement as you with my .020 overbore... 333-334cid. I can't wait for mine to get finished. My cousin is coming up to drop off another body (he hauls corpses for mortuaries... creepy huh) in a couple weeks and he's taking my block, crank and heads with him on his way back down to SoCal. He'll be dropping everything off at MMR for assembly and I should have it back a couple weeks after that. It's so close I can taste the power.

 

here is what i have ready for tomarrow morning...

 

here's comes the short block. Are you putting it together yourself?