Also, for the valve covers...oil fill is on the right and is blocking my JLT...what the junk can i do about this? Can i cut it down oor what

 

What size are those FTP headers?

 

should be 1.75" just like mine. 1.625" would still be fine though.

1996:... dunno. But that makes me want to go and check out how my spectre inlet will work.

 

Now for another ignorant request.

Anyone have a vacuum line routing guide? I got most of them routed, but cannot figure a couple out

 

mostly you just have to provide vacuum to everything. I have VERY high res pics of the top of my motor with the HPS intake ... good view of the lines

Check my website, link in sig.

 

they can be any size you want. mine are 1 3/4 stepped to 1 7/8 i think. but there is a cnc shop by me that has the flanges on file and ftp keeps about 3 sets on hand for headers. call him and he can make the tubes and collectors any size you want....

 

Well due to some recent events I've decided to extend the project to be an all out monster build.

New plans if anyone can help me out with a parts list.

I'm wanting to go dohc rather than sohc so I'll have more initial power and room to grow. I've got a year to get it all put together so money and time aren't really an issue.

I know I will need to pick up some 4v heads, need suggestions on which ones and maybe an idea of where to ship them to get them potted for maximum output.

I want some beastly cams, but I'm pretty sure no one makes anything to really get the most out of a 5.4 with porter dohc heads so I need suggestions there.

I'll need an intake and have no clue what will work with this application. I want something that will provide enough air flow to support the heads and cams and preferably be as low as possible, don't know if there is an option that will fit under the stock hood or not. I want it to at least fit under a 2000 cobra R hood though.

I'm guessing I'll have to make a custom CAI to work with it but I will be using a 90mm lightning MAF and 30# injectors to match up with it.

I'll be swapping to a tubular k-member and coil overs up front and building a bulletproof rear end so I don't shatter my differential the first time I drive it.

Other than these things listed, I don't know what else I will need to make this work but if any of you 4v guys would be willing to help, my AIM is jarryd2018 So feel free to message me on there or through pm and would love to have a 1 on 1 talk with someone who can help me out setting up my parts list.

The car is going to go through a complete transformation over the next year and I want to do everything right so I might be able to place in some shows. I hope to hear from someone soon so I can start getting my parts pile together and get started building this engine while it's still on the stand.

 

well if it was mine and time and money wasnt an issue ,i would get a ford gt aluminum block machined for wetsump oiling,set of 03/04cobra mach 1 heads and the boss 290 intake manifold straight bolt on the 03/04 heads,i would get either mmr to port the heads or modular head shop,and some ftp long tubes,and if you wanna take **** to the next level the kellogg 6.2 stroker crank,by the way bullet racing cams has over 250 4.6/5.4 cam grinds so im sure you can find what you are looking for, sounds like one serious all aluminum bow tie beater

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BOSS-...Q5fAccessories

 

would be a good plan, but I already have my block. I was looking at navi heads because I've read they flow better than any of the others. That link for the cams is helpful though.
I was looking at the Sullivan intake but if the other option is a better manifold I will go with it, hood clearance is my only real concern.

If I have my block, heads, intake, fuel rails, cobra wiring harness, cobra ecu, 90mm maf, and 30 pound injectors, will I need to pick up anything else?

I'm wanting to have a good long powerband, maybe make power up to 6k or more if it would be safe. I have a while to collect parts so I want to learn as much as I can before I start building it. I need all the advice I can get.

I'll be putting in qa1 tubular kmember a arms and coilovers along with a battery relocation kit before I even start on the motor because I want a solid foundation for it to sit on before I drop it in. This is now becoming project rags to riches. My 10 year old car is getting overhauled from the bottom up to create an all around well built like new car. I'm doing all this first to give me time to get all the plans for the motor just right and get all the parts I need before I start so it goes in easier.

I would really appreciate anyone with aim and knowledge of what I'm doing to message me so I can work out all the details and compile a parts list.

 

Well if money is no object, R heads and either a GT500 intake/blower or the infamous '00 R intake. R heads are nasty, just no aftermarket support.

 

Actually... if money isn't a problem then just save yourself some time and call up Al Papito's shop. He's known as boss330 on corral. BOSS 330 Racing 772.299.0775

He can actually build you what you want. I've already given you my 2 cents on the matter.

 

my any budget choice would be to buy a gt500 engine and go with it.

 

if your going all out, i have a 76mm turbo and a ton of fuel system parts to make that a nasty street monster....

 

Well, still working with Rick at Amazon with tuning issues. I jsut sent him a datalog and hopefully that will get me somewhere. We'll see.

 

wish the best horspla2000...hopefully you will have everything perfect soon.


ok i just wan to double check this....the lightning wire harness is not needed for the lightning set-up correct? if not then i would like to sell it. how much do they go for?

 

hey guys... need some opinions here.
Got about 1300 miles on my swap and loving it. Last week, my pi intake decided to take a crap. It didnt have the aluminum crossover and it sprung a leak at the t-stat housing. So I went out and bought a newer style with the alum crossover.
While installing my adapter plates :yuck: the first time, I had trouble sealing my intake to my plates. With the install and removal of the intake a couple times it started tearing up the threads in the plates. It held in the end and all was torqued to spec. With the latest removal of the broken intake and install of the new intake, the right rear bolt wont tighten up to spec. It just spins (threads gone i guess). Now, obviously I have a slight miss at constant RPM like a vaccuum leak or spark plug miss.
these plates are shyt. I also have one of the COP threads not tightening correctly either.
I am about ready to just go to the junk yard and pick up a 5.4L truck intake!!! I cant stand these plates.
Would you remove the intake and plates again to re-tap and die the plates again? OR truck intake until the new intakes are ready for purchase? Its my daily driver for now, but I have a back up truck to drive (Bronco with 351w gets 10mpg, dont want to drive for more than a couple days).
ARghhh!
I just find it hard to believe that these threads are so wimpy. I just cant see using these plates too long at all. ESPECIALLY if I were to stay NA for a while and a NAVI shortblock fell into my lap (flat top pistons with my PI heads would be nasty on CR!!) R&R takes it toll on these plates worse than the threaded oil pans people have issues with all the time!
opinions...
thanks as always.

 

hmmm I'd also like to know this. Anyone have any write ups on whats involved on the Lightning supercharger install onto a 5.4L mustang?

 

Harness is NOT needed. You will need to extend the MAF, TPS and IAC wires but those are retarded easy to do.

Drill it out, tap for the next bolt size up. Don't tq it so bloody hard. Truck intake is *** and won't work with your existing fuel rails. Really... the truck intake is a lot of work. 1 more week till HPS has intakes.

Not a lot really... it's just an intake bolt on and a couple other minor bolt on parts. install manifold, midplate, blower, bridge, lower boost pulley & flange, plumb in the front mount heat exchanger, wire up the intercooler pump, and set up the fuel system. Toss on a tune and drive it.

 

yea im about to extend my wires...just wanted to double check with the lightning wire harness b4 i put it up for sale.

 

you have the pigtail for the alternator right? that's the only unique piece I know of.

 

Torque specs are only 15-22 on intake manifold to heads... is that too much? I was torqueing to 20. and the cop bolts just 1/4" ratchet snug. These are pro products version from ebay, got them for 150 plus shipping. I Dont think they are made quite as well as RR or MMR (from the pics i've seen).

 

well here are a few sample pics the whole new built motor is gonna be polished except for the block and heads which pics of them were posted a few pages back,im shooting for the magazine and with the layout of my car im hoping to have a good chance!its hard to believe it started as a v6

this is almost finished this is pre polish

 

tommy likey....

 

the12fast4u that is some sexy stuff right there...also is was the12fast4u that hooked me up with the alternator pig tail so all is good.

 

thanks will and cardude,i am very happy with the quality effort and workmanship they are putting in to my parts! the credit goes to www.bandbmetalfinishing.com in greenville sc 864-612-2011 ,they have do stuff for shaq,cal ripken sr,jr,and j-lo,their quality and pricing is unmatched from all the other quotes that i got,they also do that carbon fiber stuff that they do to plastics .im not sure what its called right off hand but it is badass

 

Well, only &^%$#@! thing not letting me fire it up is the passenger side H pipe doesn't fit. it reaches, but its at the totally wrong ange. Not sure how the heck im going to get around that. The pipe is hitting the frame...Im going to go out there with a mallett tonight and try to make it work.

:'(

 

MMR are Pro-Prod. RR are the only others on the market that are actually different and they're billet. I've had both. You may want to have it heli-coil'd in that thread (or all of them for that matter). I don't use a tq wrench... inside out with even gasket compression. Nice and snug.

nice stuff. We gotta find you a side inlet so you can get a hood over that thing.

Get the to an exhaust-shop-er-eeee

 

talked to my engine builder...he said running it no H/muffler to the exhaust shop wont hurt anything as long as i dont leave it that way lol. So made an appointment for tomorrow for the exhaust shop.

open header fire up and idle video tonight heheehehehehh

 

I used the stock Mustang harness and modified it as red said as needed. I sold my L harness on eBay and I wanna say I got about $50 for it?? IDK for sure. Mine was a new take-off so it was spotless, too. For the alt pigtail, I just got an end off of another Ford product and cut,splice and heat shrinked to adapt it. It was a straight color match and it was only 2 wires anyway. Works perfect. I don't think I'd say the L swwap is gravy, you definatly need to have some expeience and know what you are doing. There are things to modify to make them work in the Mustang chassis and hood clearance is an issue to say the least. I fixed that issue on mine, though I'm thinking tuning on mine is gonna be a real bitch, esp. since it is an auto trans. We shall see........................................

 

You need the whole L top end, the more complete, the better. You will also need, throttle cable, IC heat exchanger, IC pump, IC degas bottle (from a Termi Cobra) hoses for the IC, lower pulley, L alternator and upper suppt bracket, pulley bridge with idlers and tensioner, SC belt, fuel rails to accept your Mustang fuel line, L MAF sensor, inlet duct and likely a custom air filter setup, custom program so you will need a handhelp programmer or a chassis dyon custom program. This should me most items! Have fun!