nope. it's missing a bit of integration hardware... like a way to use an alternator, proper crossover tube, proof that it works at all, etc...

Purple racing has a pretty shabby rep to start with. besides... do you really want to buy something from Turkey via bank transfer.

there is a mathematical maximum of just about 460bhp which is about 390rwhp on a good day from well ported 2v heads. That would require a gnarly cam and very very very high rpm. With hogged out 4v heads the theoretical limit is over 630bhp. Al Pappito the current king of 5.4 4v's makes 500+ on his drag car NA. To get there takes similarly bad *** cams and wicked high rpm. Don't forget you'll need an intake in either case that can pull that kind of flow. Good luck.

For boost, build your engine to 9:1 compression and you can run a safe 14lbs or more with an intercooler. You'll have good low end torque and wild top end.

For those running 25lbs... damn! You're looking for what 650-700rwhp?

 

somewhere in that neighborhood, i was thinking about low 6XXhp and 7XXtq.. the comp ratio on my motor i believe is 8:5:1

 

i'm shooting for 400rwhp or as close as possible...

 

Whats on the mod list?

 

bored .020"
comp cams 270's
bigger valves(1mm each)
port matched
electric water pump
steeda timing adjuster and underdrive pullies
frpp shortie headers and mac prochamber off road pipe, flowmasters 40's and dumps
90mm maf
39# injectors
c&l plenum
70mm frpp TB
k&n
adjustable fuel regulator
255lph pump
and a custom tune/chip

how close do u think i'll get?

 

auto or manual? where did you get ur adj. fuel regulator, i need one??

 

T-45 with a spec aluminum flywheel and stage 1 clutch.
got the adj. fuel reg from a buddy

 

I think ur in the range of 330-350rwhp and 4XXtq with those mods... take it easy on that t45 though, it cant handle too much...

 

that's great i can do that no problem r3d...now i'm debating if i want to take it and leave it at a shop or do it myself when i get back...the only thing i'm concerned about is installing the SC...i'm still thinking about that cent...instead of the KB...so i'm thinking about possiably ordering the short block and having it delievered while i'm gone and having the heads cleaned and all....that way when i get back i can just drop in then add the SC if it's not that hard...so i can be done with it by Thanksgivin..and R3d i'll be comin back to the Bay area at that time if we don't get extended with all this Bush sending more of US over seas and all...and also if i wait i can try and earn a little intrest we all know how that intrest builds in the bank ....thanks for taking the time to read this....

 

i'm a traitor...i'm putting in a 5.4 4v

anyone know the weight difference between the two, and does a 4v stick up higher than a 2v?


...i know LT's wont fit...but what about the midlength's they make for the 03/04 cobra? or does anyone know what kind of exhaust manifolds the 00 cobra R had? they should fit...provided it's possible to get ahold of them lol

 

sleeping... the heads weigh nearly double what the 2v do. Figure you'll be 200lbs heavier than stock up front. The 4v is just as tall as the 2v and there are better intakes available for 4v applications like the Reichard, Navigator, etc..

Midlength from Bassani should probably be something you can MAKE fit but they won't just out of the box... they're weld together so the special work isn't that bad. The 00'R had stock CAST IRON PI MANIFOLDS. Can you believe that crap.

 

no way? that sucks lol...i'm still waiting to find out exactly how much the swap will cost me...with the killer deal i found on the navi engine i really hope its monetarily feasible(if not i'll probably do a 2v swap myself..but 4v rewiring if i do it i will be paying someone to do the swap)

 

The '00 Cobra R had the PI exhaust logs!?! Imagine how power would be gained w/ FRPP 4V shortie headers. Why didn't Ford use the standard 4V manifold? Is the 2V PI version narrower or something?

 

the standard 4v manifold was used... PI was a typo that made it in from another thread... my bad. Nonetheless it was the cast iron log type and they suck.

the biggest reason to not use something better was space or rather a lack thereof. An old pal of mine had a 00 R that made 440rwhp with just a tune. Power gain with a shortie isn't impressive... if you can squeeze mids or long tubes in there then it starts getting interesting.

 

thats what i was wondering about, how difficult would it be to beat some bassani midlengths in there

 

From what was said when Saleen330 was here, basically, the steering linkage got in the way. So some creativity will probably be needed to fix that problem and then they should fit.
That's what since it doen't make sense to put 2V logs on a 4V head.

 

or 4v logs on a 4v head...

 

considering i never plan on going FI, i'm considering going stroker 4v instead so i can keep my "V6" hood and use lt's

anyone know the power difference between comparably modded 4.6 stroker vs 5.4 4v? both will be sprayed minimum 200 shot on forged internals

or if their is a 5.4 4v intake that allows me to keep the stock hood?

 

about 75hp and 100tq difference.

you have a good choice of intakes. If you stick with B heads and use a 96-98 cobra intake with Reichard plates you should see really good power output even with the Reichard 4v plates in place. hood clearance is going to be something you'll have to deal with. I'd start looking at a cobra R hood just in case. I don't know anyone personally who's got a 4v 5.4 other than Al Pappito and his car is pretty custom.

 

Why not go w/ the Cobra R/GT/GT500 heads? Kar Kraft has them for sale fully assembled. Ask Al if he could hook you up w/ a Cobra R intake and you'll be set. Then you're looking at a guarenteed 400 hp. However, if you don't have the money, yeah, what r3dn3ck said.

 

what are the power differences between well ported b heads and c heads?

 

negligable if you go by flow numbers. I recommend going with B heads so you can use some of the excellent intakes those years used. They aren't perfect by a long shot but they are very nice and flow big and they're factory ford so you shoudn't have much issue with smog techs twisting your berries over an aftermarket intake.

 

How hard is it to install the cent...SC....and which cent..is the best one for this application...and should i leave it at a shop...or should i just order it and put it in when i get back...i will try to build it to the 9 compression then run it with 14lbs and hope fully with the meth..be able to run it on pump if that lb for compression theory works...but is it hard to install a SC (cent) and a 3-core cooler...i read it takes about 5-6hrs to install....thanks for taking the time to read this...

 

14lbs will work without methanol but I would use an aftercooler at 9:1. Still that's not uncommon on well tuned cars with 91 octane. Just aviod shady lookin gas stations. The blower is moderately difficult. I'd let a shop do it while you're out at sea.

I prefer the Novi2000 or the Vortech T-trim for the 5.4L. THey have enough flow to do the trick. As for cooler options... as big as you can fit. I'd talk to ATI (Procharger makers) about one of their intercooler options. At 14lbs peak you're well inside the "use a cooler" zone.

 

Ok, so im new to this group but currently I have a 2003 mustang GT 5spd and a 5.4L swap sounds awesome. NOT really diggin' the 2v 5.4L though, as i have not found much to do to them without tearing them down and rebuilding from the ground up, and this is my daily driver so it cant be down for over say, a week. Especially considering my other car, a 1988 VW GTI, I converted to an autocross/ rally car so it doesnt play well with others on the street...Not to mention a 1.8 16V stroked to 2.1L and built as a 4cyl can be, breathing through a straight pipe 2&5/8" exhaust, is one hell of a wake up call at 5AM I can do without. Any way, ive got 3 questions:
I have found a 2004 5.4L 3V out of a 2004 F-150 Chip Foose Regency (whatever that is), for $2000 with out "accessories" I believe it needs an AC compressor, starter, and one more thing i cant remember.
1.) Will my 4.6L accessories fit this behemoth?
2.) Will this 5.4L 3V fit my transmission (tk3650)?
3.)If so, will it even fit in my car?

 

i think the 3v won't work in your car, u need a 5.4 2v. but all u need for the 5.4 swap is the adapters for the intake. everything else fits.

 

Since i'm probably going to order a short block to put my P/P Pi heads on what is a recommend place to get it from...i looked at CHP and DSS couldn't find much had to put a price request to DSS for them to email me a price...or would it be cheaper to buy a block from a junk yard and have a shop put it together...thanks for taking the time to read this....

 

It might be cheaper to just get a junkyard block since it comes with everything (timing cover, etc.) and just to have a shop build up the bottom end. When I get the cash, I'm probably going to have a local engine rebuilder build my short block and I'll just finish it up w/ the top end.

 

you'll want a donor 5.4L 2v at minimum... you can buy a smoked motor for cheap at a junkyard (www.car-part.com) and use it as a donor for all the little pins and bolts and covers and such. As long as it wasn't too badly whipped it'll be good for parts.

Then buy a shortblock complete and have your heads stuck on it. All the little stuff for my motor amounted to almost 1000 bucks. On top of the 500 for pistons, 325 for rods, 200 for bearings, 350 for fasteners, 250 for machining, 800 for assembly, and then 250 for bigger injectors, and my 375 dollar adaptor plates. I'm about 4K into it (not counting heads, cams, intake, nitrous, braided lines, fuel system, etc...). I had the issue of needing to spread the cost over time so it cost me more. You're doing it all at once... so you can save a little on the pre-built short block.

Check out MMR, BOSS330 Racing and VT engines. They're all pretty damn good. CHP has had kinda too many issues with their modular motors for my taste. Let them stick with pushrods... they do those well. Leave the modulars to modular racers.

I'm using MMR to build all my stuff.

 

OK so i guess a 5.4L 3v wont work, so what did the 2v 5.4L go in? and what are the hp.torque numbers of these engines? i just really liekd the 3v because out of the box you get 300hp and 365 lb-ft. of torque, through the chip foose f150 engine i found for 2k was 350hp/ 410lb-ft...even nicer. If im going to be spending over 4k then i might as well just supercharger my 4.6 2v, it can take 12 psi without harming it, and i figure if i run 10psi that gets me deep into the 400hp/400lb-ft. range...and i can drive it everyday. versus a built 330 2v producing the same power that will guzzle the hell out of gas.