View Poll Results: What are your 5.4L swap plans?
Voters: 220. You may not vote on this poll
Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine.
tried to submit via PM but DB error, so, we'll try here. This addresses questions from our newest member submitted via PM.
BBK shorties don't work. FRPP or JBA do. JBA are best.
8 bolt flywheel, flywheel bolts, pilot bearing, throw out bearing should be gotten. A standard stage 2 clutch disc is sufficient as an upgrade. 3.55's are a VERY nice street gear. I preferred them and it didn't hit the mileage, actually improved it. Any stage 2 cam will give you a nice upper end gain and a flatter tq curve. I like MHS cams. Tell Nick I said hi if you call up. All PI cams whether from a car or truck are the same spec. Only difference is bolt on vs press on cam gears. Bolt on are better. PI cams are fine but the motor runs out of pull at about 4000rpm with them so MHS stage 2 5.4 cams are recommended.
Bolt on's all work. I don't like UDP's. They're not going to help but they also don't do a good job at damping vibration with the tiny crank pulley. I recommend the stock pulley set.
All wiring works. You may have to extend one or two sensors but that's not usually required.
Stock 5.4 rods aren't really the problem. It's the rod bearings and main bearings. If you replace them with H-series then you can spin 6000rpm but beyond that you're asking for trouble. If you don't replace them then I'd stop at 5500rpm. It doesn't totally matter anyway as the motor will fall on its face at 5000-5800rpm depending on setup, so yeah, straight stock for stock swap will work and many guys have done it. If you plan on a power adder EVER then upgrade the rods. Pistons are fine with small power adders but if you're going to go big later it's worth it to get forged slugs. The stock crank will take any power you can make.
I would recommend upgrading the bearings anyway. It's cheap and fairly easy. The Mustang Depot on Palmyrta Dr. in Riverside, CA has h-beams for under 300 bucks which would solve the problem entirely.
With the combo you have you should see 260-300rwhp and 330-380rwtq. It'll easily run 12's if you can stick the launch.
Feel free to hit me up on YIM at cburnss or AIM at sditgf if you need real-time help. I'm usually on-line during business hours (pacific time) on weekdays. If you run into serious problems or need to just ask a question voice:voice so you can get a nice clear answer or it's difficult to splain' in text, you can call during reasonable pacific time hours. Myillwillinc has my digits.
BBK shorties don't work. FRPP or JBA do. JBA are best.
8 bolt flywheel, flywheel bolts, pilot bearing, throw out bearing should be gotten. A standard stage 2 clutch disc is sufficient as an upgrade. 3.55's are a VERY nice street gear. I preferred them and it didn't hit the mileage, actually improved it. Any stage 2 cam will give you a nice upper end gain and a flatter tq curve. I like MHS cams. Tell Nick I said hi if you call up. All PI cams whether from a car or truck are the same spec. Only difference is bolt on vs press on cam gears. Bolt on are better. PI cams are fine but the motor runs out of pull at about 4000rpm with them so MHS stage 2 5.4 cams are recommended.
Bolt on's all work. I don't like UDP's. They're not going to help but they also don't do a good job at damping vibration with the tiny crank pulley. I recommend the stock pulley set.
All wiring works. You may have to extend one or two sensors but that's not usually required.
Stock 5.4 rods aren't really the problem. It's the rod bearings and main bearings. If you replace them with H-series then you can spin 6000rpm but beyond that you're asking for trouble. If you don't replace them then I'd stop at 5500rpm. It doesn't totally matter anyway as the motor will fall on its face at 5000-5800rpm depending on setup, so yeah, straight stock for stock swap will work and many guys have done it. If you plan on a power adder EVER then upgrade the rods. Pistons are fine with small power adders but if you're going to go big later it's worth it to get forged slugs. The stock crank will take any power you can make.
I would recommend upgrading the bearings anyway. It's cheap and fairly easy. The Mustang Depot on Palmyrta Dr. in Riverside, CA has h-beams for under 300 bucks which would solve the problem entirely.
With the combo you have you should see 260-300rwhp and 330-380rwtq. It'll easily run 12's if you can stick the launch.
Feel free to hit me up on YIM at cburnss or AIM at sditgf if you need real-time help. I'm usually on-line during business hours (pacific time) on weekdays. If you run into serious problems or need to just ask a question voice:voice so you can get a nice clear answer or it's difficult to splain' in text, you can call during reasonable pacific time hours. Myillwillinc has my digits.
thank you!
first straight answer I've gotten.
As for the swap, it's gonna take a bit, the big hump is finding a good motor.
I guess mileage doesn't matter, as I'm gonna have to pay to have it dug into.
The only thing I wanted mainly was to retain my RPM usage(which I know I really don't have)
But it's nice at times to just let it go to redline.
I am not a HP junkie, so about that would make me a thrilled person.
As for cams, I think I'll keep what I was going to use with my 4.6 plan.
CMS(VT) Stage 1s.
They pull hard to redline, which is more than my stockers do.
And shouldn't murder my mileage. And the 20 or so HP wouldn't hurt.
If the power is as nice as everyone says, I may just keep the 2.73s.
I think I'll make gears the final stop.
I'll begin in earnest once I find a motor.
I've found one with 77XXX miles.
if it's still for sale when funds arrive, I think I'll just jump.
800 is not too bad for the mileage.
As for the launch, not worried about that at all.
Drag racing is a rich man's game(IMO) so I'll just keep her street, and save for my DHG painjob.
And we know there won't be issues for putting a PI motor into my NPI car?
I've heard guys run into trouble with just a PI motor swap.
Again thanks for the straight answer. I'm gonna keep looking for a good motor. Once I get the motor, I'm sure I'll lose my wife
first straight answer I've gotten.
As for the swap, it's gonna take a bit, the big hump is finding a good motor.
I guess mileage doesn't matter, as I'm gonna have to pay to have it dug into.
The only thing I wanted mainly was to retain my RPM usage(which I know I really don't have)
But it's nice at times to just let it go to redline.
I am not a HP junkie, so about that would make me a thrilled person.
As for cams, I think I'll keep what I was going to use with my 4.6 plan.
CMS(VT) Stage 1s.
They pull hard to redline, which is more than my stockers do.
And shouldn't murder my mileage. And the 20 or so HP wouldn't hurt.
If the power is as nice as everyone says, I may just keep the 2.73s.
I think I'll make gears the final stop.
I'll begin in earnest once I find a motor.
I've found one with 77XXX miles.
if it's still for sale when funds arrive, I think I'll just jump.
800 is not too bad for the mileage.
As for the launch, not worried about that at all.
Drag racing is a rich man's game(IMO) so I'll just keep her street, and save for my DHG painjob.
And we know there won't be issues for putting a PI motor into my NPI car?
I've heard guys run into trouble with just a PI motor swap.
Again thanks for the straight answer. I'm gonna keep looking for a good motor. Once I get the motor, I'm sure I'll lose my wife
Last edited by 97 Bullitt; 11-13-2011 at 12:49 PM.
Oh and one last one for the night.
You said 5500?
So setting rev limiter to 5400 just in case, and I should be good.
These make max HP around 5000 anyway, so I think I can live with that.
Just to drive the 5.4.
At this moment, are there any places to at least get a canned tune?
The nearest tuners are 8 or so hours from me....
You said 5500?
So setting rev limiter to 5400 just in case, and I should be good.
These make max HP around 5000 anyway, so I think I can live with that.
Just to drive the 5.4.
At this moment, are there any places to at least get a canned tune?
The nearest tuners are 8 or so hours from me....
@myillwillinc
You said you just manually extended your h.
I've done that before to an X that was about an inch each side from mating up so no worries, which brings me to my question.
Any experience with an O/R X?
I should be able to just manhandle it right?
I've had this car stock too long, so I want to at least get my mid/catback altered, that will hold me happy til I get my swap done.
Thanks
You said you just manually extended your h.
I've done that before to an X that was about an inch each side from mating up so no worries, which brings me to my question.
Any experience with an O/R X?
I should be able to just manhandle it right?
I've had this car stock too long, so I want to at least get my mid/catback altered, that will hold me happy til I get my swap done.
Thanks
I'm tempted to just buy a relatively low mileaged motor, just to throw in.
The idea of costs associated with engine work worry me.
Especially for a N/A street application.
So I'll ask your guy's opinions.
That will help me finalize plans.
Full DD/Street duty.
Craziest I am going will be stage 1 CMS cams.
but for this let's assume just PI cams.
HPS intake
75mmTB plenum
CAI
gonna wait for the motor to decide on gears.
all off my crap t45.
should I dig in?
I am more worried about swapping then it going out in a year or so.
I may get a new 5.4 block to build for when I go "all new"
but that will be far far down the line.
Currently looking at motors in the <100K range.
My car is at 98K so lower than my engine suits me fine.
I don't see me going further than 5500 on the street/highway here in texas anyway.
So like I said, just get a good running motor?
Or go cheap and build...considering my modest goals?
Thanks...btw forgive me for rambling, but its 0430 over here. haha
The idea of costs associated with engine work worry me.
Especially for a N/A street application.
So I'll ask your guy's opinions.
That will help me finalize plans.
Full DD/Street duty.
Craziest I am going will be stage 1 CMS cams.
but for this let's assume just PI cams.
HPS intake
75mmTB plenum
CAI
gonna wait for the motor to decide on gears.
all off my crap t45.
should I dig in?
I am more worried about swapping then it going out in a year or so.
I may get a new 5.4 block to build for when I go "all new"
but that will be far far down the line.
Currently looking at motors in the <100K range.
My car is at 98K so lower than my engine suits me fine.
I don't see me going further than 5500 on the street/highway here in texas anyway.
So like I said, just get a good running motor?
Or go cheap and build...considering my modest goals?
Thanks...btw forgive me for rambling, but its 0430 over here. haha
Last edited by 97 Bullitt; 11-14-2011 at 07:36 PM.
I have been reading this forum for what seems like forever. I've read the whole thing multiple times! I wanted to say thanks and congrats to everyone that put in the hard work to get this info out there. I am extremely interested in the swap, and will no doubt do it when and if the funds ever become available.
email pics to myillwillinc@aol.com as i wait for mine to be completed i have yet another one i'm helping finish
DEfinately want to do this just need to be pointed in the right direction.
I have a 2005 gt that I hardly drive and I really need help on my first step after I get the motor and if I need a better transmission? I will also have to find someone to install it for me.I also wanted to guestimate about how much its going to run me.
Lightning top end for 5.4 swap for sale
Lots of info. All the guess work and fabrication done. Bolt on this top end to a 5.4 and go. I have access to my custom chassis dyno tune file for this, too. Lets talk. Asking $1000 obo.
Ok, guys. Here we go. I have everything you'd need. The $1000 was supposed to be for just what you see in the pics. BUT, I do have the pulley bridge and a Motorcraft reman alternator. I also have a set of JBA shorties (needed to do a 2V swap). Someone make me a SOLID offer and what you want out of that. I could/would also help you with tech advice on putting it all together. I also have some Ford intake gaskets that can be reused with no problem. This made 401/435 to the wheels thru a 4R70W on a SAFE tune and only 10 PSI. Lots of room to grow here. Fresh Morotcraft synthetic oil in it. It does clear the cowl and will accept Terminator Cobra cold air kits. All the dimentions were laid out to fit and work well, which it did. I also modified a 2001 Cobra fuel rail (becuase it's returnless and has the FRP on it) and tig welded the Lightning brackets to the Cobra rail so it fits the Lightning lower well. It is a rtuly nice setup that I'm quite proud of fabricating. MANY MANY hours and $$$ in this! I just got a differnt car and had some lower end issues with my 5.4 which laid up the car. Decided not to fix that car, so this is for sale. I would definately like to see this go to a nice home and to someone that can appreciate it and use it well.
i'm on my 3rd 5.4 customer swap while my monster pit is sorted out. let me see if i can get this one interested in this. i have aeromotive rails already bought for this swap, will they fit with the L brackets?
I've got a 5.4 in my car now with the HPS intake. It's really setup for NA (10.5 to 1 static compression and big cams) but the bottom end is all forged so I'm still tempted, even though I'd probably have to dedicate to E85 or race gas.
My car is return style and I've got aftermarket rails with a FPR so I assume I'd have to end up making some brackets for the rails.
I'm really not sure what all I'm looking for since I really wasnt considering a lightning swap but since your setup will actually fit under the hood, I'm considering it now. Don't they run an intercooler pump too?
My car is return style and I've got aftermarket rails with a FPR so I assume I'd have to end up making some brackets for the rails.
I'm really not sure what all I'm looking for since I really wasnt considering a lightning swap but since your setup will actually fit under the hood, I'm considering it now. Don't they run an intercooler pump too?
Yes, the intercooler is in the lower and it's there, along with the plumbing. You would need a heat exhanger and pump (minimal cost) Just get Cobra stuff. Myillwill, yes, if you get Lightning rails, the brackets would bolt up to this intake no problem. Let me know asap. I'm trying to sell elsewhere, too.