View Poll Results: What are your 5.4L swap plans?
Voters: 220. You may not vote on this poll
Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine.
#7981
Yep, I pieced it together.
The Nav heads have much larger intake ports than the cobra, the exhaust are the same. The Nav heads also have improved coolant flow around the exhaust area too, good for boosted.
The cams are close match to the Termies, really not much benefit to swapping them, especially in boosted engines. The Nav heads are too big for NA 4.6 engines, but are perfect for boosted 4.6 or 5.4 apps.
http://www.sullivanperformance.com/Y...tech/tech1.htm
Your best bet is to find a good complete Nav motor if you want to go 5.4 L 4v, since you need all the timing components and front cover, etc....
P.S. There may be some gains from using the Termie/Mach1/Aviator heads due to their improved intake port geometry, but they are not cheap.
The Nav heads have much larger intake ports than the cobra, the exhaust are the same. The Nav heads also have improved coolant flow around the exhaust area too, good for boosted.
The cams are close match to the Termies, really not much benefit to swapping them, especially in boosted engines. The Nav heads are too big for NA 4.6 engines, but are perfect for boosted 4.6 or 5.4 apps.
http://www.sullivanperformance.com/Y...tech/tech1.htm
Your best bet is to find a good complete Nav motor if you want to go 5.4 L 4v, since you need all the timing components and front cover, etc....
P.S. There may be some gains from using the Termie/Mach1/Aviator heads due to their improved intake port geometry, but they are not cheap.
#7982
The Nav heads have much larger intake ports than the cobra, the exhaust are the same. The Nav heads also have improved coolant flow around the exhaust area too, good for boosted.
The cams are close match to the Termies, really not much benefit to swapping them, especially in boosted engines. The Nav heads are too big for NA 4.6 engines, but are perfect for boosted 4.6 or 5.4 apps.
P.S. There may be some gains from using the Termie/Mach1/Aviator heads due to their improved intake port geometry, but they are not cheap.
The cams are close match to the Termies, really not much benefit to swapping them, especially in boosted engines. The Nav heads are too big for NA 4.6 engines, but are perfect for boosted 4.6 or 5.4 apps.
P.S. There may be some gains from using the Termie/Mach1/Aviator heads due to their improved intake port geometry, but they are not cheap.
The stock cams will work, but you will be leaving a lot of hp on the garage floor.
You can get 9 thread 03/04 heads for about $400 but the Navi heads will work fine, especially if you match the intake ports.
Last edited by na svt; 10-16-2009 at 11:59 AM.
#7984
12.55 @114 on street tires. Don't mind the bog off the line, I was trying to avoid tire spin, so I launched at very low revs. Really starts to haul after it gets rolling.
P.S. This was before the custom tune (added 200 ft/lbs rwtq)
http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/i...6-09174654.flv
P.S. This was before the custom tune (added 200 ft/lbs rwtq)
http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/i...6-09174654.flv
Hell mine should be a 115+ car and i have way less power not to mention im down 2 valves per cylinder.
I gotta call B.S On the added 200 ft/lbs
#7985
Nav heads on 4.6 block clarification
My understanding here is that about the only off-the-shelf intake manifold you can use with the Nav heads on a 4.6 block is the Sullivan performance 4.6 manifold, and then you seem to still need a radical port match, correct?
#7987
00' and up are PI. 97-99 are NPI. Note a few very early 00's have been found with NPI heads. Pull the intake before you buy the motor and double check. 04+ are 3v motors and won't work easily.
#7988
Need quick basic info.. I began to read this post somewhere around a year to year and half ago. I have been wanting to do this swap for a while..just want the 2v 5.4 swap PI, i am a 98 GT auto right now. 00-03 expedition 99-04 triton?
Just got new tires and battery this week.. waiting for borla mufflers to get in and get them to the shop for custom side exhaust.
So aside from getting the long block.. I remember something about clearance and how one moved the engine down at the motor mounts. Also cutting a little of the ribs away from underside of the hood.
Just got new tires and battery this week.. waiting for borla mufflers to get in and get them to the shop for custom side exhaust.
So aside from getting the long block.. I remember something about clearance and how one moved the engine down at the motor mounts. Also cutting a little of the ribs away from underside of the hood.
#7990
I've got a quick dumb question, Do AN fittings require an O-ring? I see AN and AN O-ring listed, on summit. Obviously one has an O-ring, but what is the need for it? I'm about to order the stuff to plump up my fuel rails, and dont want to end up with it leaking all over the place.
#7991
AN O-ring are straight cut fittings that follow the diameter rules of AN taper fittings.
Where it says O-ring, you MUST use o-ring. DO NOT USE NPT threaded fittings in o-ring AN applications even if you can get one to thread.
AN tapered fittings (the hose ends and such) seal using the tapered shoulder. The AN o-ring fittings use the o-ring to seal and the threads are just there for clamping load. Also be aware that the hose type and the hose end type MUST match exactly or you'll never get it to work.
I'll be adding a little more to the how-to thread later today.
On the car front, finishing up some details of the intercooler mount and connecting up all the wiring for my gauges and connecting up the lingering ground lines. Gunna start putting the nitrous kit in and start extending wires. Hooray!
Ordered my balancer last night. Just need an IC pump and a few niggly bits and it'll be off to the tuner.
Where it says O-ring, you MUST use o-ring. DO NOT USE NPT threaded fittings in o-ring AN applications even if you can get one to thread.
AN tapered fittings (the hose ends and such) seal using the tapered shoulder. The AN o-ring fittings use the o-ring to seal and the threads are just there for clamping load. Also be aware that the hose type and the hose end type MUST match exactly or you'll never get it to work.
I'll be adding a little more to the how-to thread later today.
On the car front, finishing up some details of the intercooler mount and connecting up all the wiring for my gauges and connecting up the lingering ground lines. Gunna start putting the nitrous kit in and start extending wires. Hooray!
Ordered my balancer last night. Just need an IC pump and a few niggly bits and it'll be off to the tuner.
#7992
Need quick basic info.. I began to read this post somewhere around a year to year and half ago. I have been wanting to do this swap for a while..just want the 2v 5.4 swap PI, i am a 98 GT auto right now. 00-03 expedition 99-04 triton?
Just got new tires and battery this week.. waiting for borla mufflers to get in and get them to the shop for custom side exhaust.
So aside from getting the long block.. I remember something about clearance and how one moved the engine down at the motor mounts. Also cutting a little of the ribs away from underside of the hood.
Just got new tires and battery this week.. waiting for borla mufflers to get in and get them to the shop for custom side exhaust.
So aside from getting the long block.. I remember something about clearance and how one moved the engine down at the motor mounts. Also cutting a little of the ribs away from underside of the hood.
Don't worry about lowering the motor mounts, no need.
Cutting the hood is pretty minimal (www.54stangs.com has pics)... takes about 5 minutes with a dremel tool and a drill bit style cutter.
Don't use 99 engines... they're NPI. Use 00 and up for straight swaps.
#7994
im doing the 5.4 swap and im also installing a granatelli k member while the engine is out. i was thinking about modifying the k member to lower the engine so that i can use my 4.6 long tube headers. any info on this matter, can it be done, will it work
#7995
I did a dyno run on the stock (KSG2) tune just for laughs and it was 403 ft/lbs rwtq, which is not that bad considering the A/F was going into the 8s.
After tuning, the rwtq jumped to 638 ft/lbs. I have the dyno sheet to prove it.
#7996
The Ford GT has basically the same crank, except for the missing oil pump flats (dry sump only) that was considered a stress point.
#7997
There is a huge benefit by going to longer duration cams in 5.4. First, the 184 degree intake cams in 03/04 cobra, mach, marauder and aviator (and navigator) do not have enough duration for the much larger 5.4. A simple cobra cam swap does wonders in 03/04 cobras and it would do the same for a 5.4, even though the 5.4 needs yet another 20 degrees beyond what they offer.
The stock cams will work, but you will be leaving a lot of hp on the garage floor.
You can get 9 thread 03/04 heads for about $400 but the Navi heads will work fine, especially if you match the intake ports.
The stock cams will work, but you will be leaving a lot of hp on the garage floor.
You can get 9 thread 03/04 heads for about $400 but the Navi heads will work fine, especially if you match the intake ports.
#7998
Don't use GMS parts, they're crap. Use the actual part it's based off of, the MM k-member. Also, pick up their spacers if you want to lower it.
#7999
FYI, The 12.55 @114 was with the factory Bullitt tune. I have yet to run it with the new tune. Also that was on street tires.
I did a dyno run on the stock (KSG2) tune just for laughs and it was 403 ft/lbs rwtq, which is not that bad considering the A/F was going into the 8s.
After tuning, the rwtq jumped to 638 ft/lbs. I have the dyno sheet to prove it.
I did a dyno run on the stock (KSG2) tune just for laughs and it was 403 ft/lbs rwtq, which is not that bad considering the A/F was going into the 8s.
After tuning, the rwtq jumped to 638 ft/lbs. I have the dyno sheet to prove it.
Get the proper pipes from FTP and sell your existing headers to help defray the cost. Ditto on GMS... not a fan at all. Get the MM k-member. It's worth the extra cash.
#8001
FYI, The 12.55@114 was with the factory Bullitt tune. I have yet to run it with the new tune. Also that was on street tires.
I did a dyno run on the stock (KSG2) tune just for laughs and it was 403 ft/lbs rwtq, which is not that bad considering the A/F was going into the 8s.
After tuning, the rwtq jumped to 638 ft/lbs. I have the dyno sheet to prove it.
I did a dyno run on the stock (KSG2) tune just for laughs and it was 403 ft/lbs rwtq, which is not that bad considering the A/F was going into the 8s.
After tuning, the rwtq jumped to 638 ft/lbs. I have the dyno sheet to prove it.
#8002
call TJ @FTP (205-631-3871) http://www.ftperformance.net/
the headers cost a grand, he's working on a few sets now so call and reserve with a deposit to get some.
i'll be up there tomarrow to check out some stuff on my car.
#8003
Post up the dyno sheets... there a thread for just 5.4 swappers and their dyno results/time slips??? Would be interesting to see how diff combos fair against the each other. Fyi I have 4 days till my longblock will be here... considering how someone else assymbled it... I'm tearing it back down and rechecking everything and having cams degree'd when it goes back together maybe ill cut my lower in two first and tack back up so I can weld it up while I wait either way I'm so excited I can barely sleep!!!!
Last edited by sherminator; 10-19-2009 at 07:06 PM. Reason: spelling
#8005
I'd take it and buy a cheap set of PI heads for it. You'll have a steel crank in all probability and the earlier blocks are lighter. 200 bucks you can't beat for a front cover, block, crank and timing set. Pitch the heads and be happy you got such a good deal.
stalkr: I don't like the underdrive crank pulley on the 5.4's. It just seems a little small for my taste even if they tend to be SFI rated. I'd stick with a stock 4.6 or 5.4 balancer and all the rest of the pullies. The power gain from them isn't enough to justify the cost. Sell em and get the 100 bucks.
EDIT: Got my crank pulley today. Did a little more work on vacuum setup. Got my oil cooler moved forward so I can put the FMHE's on.
stalkr: I don't like the underdrive crank pulley on the 5.4's. It just seems a little small for my taste even if they tend to be SFI rated. I'd stick with a stock 4.6 or 5.4 balancer and all the rest of the pullies. The power gain from them isn't enough to justify the cost. Sell em and get the 100 bucks.
EDIT: Got my crank pulley today. Did a little more work on vacuum setup. Got my oil cooler moved forward so I can put the FMHE's on.
Last edited by r3dn3ck; 10-20-2009 at 11:50 AM.
#8006
Ok so to avoid having to wade through 267 pages of posts... Im interested in a 5.4 swap. My questions are...
#1 Which is the easiest swap, SOHC or DOHC?
#2 Other than the motor, what else will i need to complete the swap?
#3 What year range Expedition/F-150's do i need to look for to get the transplant
motor from? (I know everyone says Navi motor, but they're generally about a
grand more expensive, why is this?)
#1 Which is the easiest swap, SOHC or DOHC?
#2 Other than the motor, what else will i need to complete the swap?
#3 What year range Expedition/F-150's do i need to look for to get the transplant
motor from? (I know everyone says Navi motor, but they're generally about a
grand more expensive, why is this?)
#8007
Ok so to avoid having to wade through 267 pages of posts... Im interested in a 5.4 swap. My questions are...
#1 Which is the easiest swap, SOHC or DOHC?
#2 Other than the motor, what else will i need to complete the swap?
#3 What year range Expedition/F-150's do i need to look for to get the transplant
motor from? (I know everyone says Navi motor, but they're generally about a
grand more expensive, why is this?)
#1 Which is the easiest swap, SOHC or DOHC?
#2 Other than the motor, what else will i need to complete the swap?
#3 What year range Expedition/F-150's do i need to look for to get the transplant
motor from? (I know everyone says Navi motor, but they're generally about a
grand more expensive, why is this?)
#2. read the 5.4 write-up
$3. 97-03 expedition/f-150 motors were 5.4 2v. also the econo vans from the same years had the 5.4 2v. the reason the navi motor is more expensive is because its a 5.4 4v motor.
Last edited by liljojo4711; 10-20-2009 at 01:57 PM.
#8008
#1. generally if u have a sohc engine currently the 5.4 2v will be easiest. if u start with a dohc engine the 5.4 4v will be easiest. this is also the cheapest route either way.
#2. read the 5.4 write-up
$3. 97-03 expedition/f-150 motors were 5.4 2v. also the econo vans from the same years had the 5.4 2v. the reason the navi motor is more expensive is because its a 5.4 4v motor.
#2. read the 5.4 write-up
$3. 97-03 expedition/f-150 motors were 5.4 2v. also the econo vans from the same years had the 5.4 2v. the reason the navi motor is more expensive is because its a 5.4 4v motor.
#8009
*update*
hunter has informed me that he is selling his longtubes/x-pipe for 1100 obo. he has some issues with the shop that built his motor and it had to come back out. so he is going another direction with his. pm me if anyone is interested in the low mileage exhaust. it has maybe 250miles on it, the x-pipe is stainless also.
hunter has informed me that he is selling his longtubes/x-pipe for 1100 obo. he has some issues with the shop that built his motor and it had to come back out. so he is going another direction with his. pm me if anyone is interested in the low mileage exhaust. it has maybe 250miles on it, the x-pipe is stainless also.
#8010
try to find a complete motor from a 00-03. All your accessories should bolt up. There's a write up sticky in this section that covers all this stuff in better detail.