300/332 on longtubes, 281/333 on FRPP shorties with the HPS 5.4 intake. 271/333 with shorties and HPS 4.6 intake and adapter plates. I figure the HPS 4.6 intake was worth 15-20hp over the stock intake. If you have stage 2 PI heads or TFS heads look for 30-60hp more with a similar combo.

 

The torque numbers pretty much stay the same? hmmm, interesting.

 

As another data point, my original combo (NPI block, PI heads, Comp270AH, adapter plates, stock PI intake, stock TB, stock headers) made 261/327. I have since upgraded to the HPS intake, 75mm TB, TF upper elbow, CAI, 24# injectors with a better tune. I plan to throw it back on the dyno sometime soon to see where all that got me.

That is because the changes are moving the torque peak up in the RPM range. Peak torque stays the same, but horsepower output goes up.

 

Does anybody happen to have a set of K-member spacers of a K-member out of a 99-04 that they can measure for me?? I just can't being myself to pay $100+ for some pieces of aluminum with 2 holes in them. Especially when I have a piece of 1/2 plate sitting right next to me. I'd need to know the hole spacint at minimum. Thanks to anybody that can give specific info.

 

cmon', I BEGGED Chuck Schwynoch (owns MM) to make those parts, I told him how simple it'd be and that people would need them. Buy a set, preeeeze. Make something else.

Seriously though, just measure center to center to the k-member bolts. There's 2 on each side at the bottom of the rear of the K and 2 behind the wheels. I don't remember the dimensions off hand. Don't forget longer bolts.

Don't forget:
Some considerations when installing spacers between the k-member and the chassis:

* Ground clearance may be reduced.
* The position of caster/camber plate strut shaft spacers may need changing to maintain the strut's proper compression travel and droop travel.
* Transmission mount may need modification to maintain proper driveline angles.
* Pinion angle may need to be adjusted to maintain proper driveline angles.
* Steering shaft will need to be extended slightly (easily accommodated by an MM telescoping steering shaft).
* Front suspension geometry may be altered, with possible consequences to the car's handling.
* A front-end alignment will be necessary.

 

I bid on a set on eBay and made an offer of $75.00. They could've countered but instead they declined, which is extremely STUPID!!! I made my mind up that whatever they countered that I'd take it. Instead the dumbasses declined. Now that I thought about it, I am going to make some. I can get the needed bolts easy enough. If I had detailed measurements, I could get them made before I take it apart, saving me hassle of taking it apart, taking measurements, making them then installing.

 

So question guys:

Vortech V2 s/c setup - with a lightning lower vs a HPS intake - which do you think would make more power?

 

Plus I may end up having to go more than 1/2". Maybe like 3/4" I want to go the minimum possible to get my hood shut.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

 

not shabby if that goes for under 350...

 

This is why I'm always telling people not to get hung up on HP numbers... that's for dyno queens. The true measure of power output is average tq production (area under the curve).

All else being equal the non-existent runners on the L intake should make for very sligtly higher peak hp and probably a small loss of tq in the low and mid ranges. The HPS would give better mid and low and be within probably a very few hp at the peak.

Your selection should probably come down to how/if you plan to intercool. If you plan to intercool then the L intake and mid-plate will make that fairly easy to accomplish with some minor fabrication of a top hat and TB mount.

The HPS intake will require a separate aftercooler setup for the supercharger if you want it to run intercooled.

If you don't plan on doing an after/inter-cooler setup, then I see no reason not to use the HPS and get the better middle and low range power and a MUCH easier install with no fabrication.


If you go beyond .5" you will absolutely have to mod the tranny mount and adjust the pinion angle and use an aftermarket telescoping steering shaft. It'll also cause a little bit of weirdness with the front suspension geometry and you will HAVE to mess with any other adjustable parts you have (and those you don't have, you'll have to buy, CC plates, bumpsteer kit. It's not untenable but it is something you have to understand how to fix. If you're going that far, please get the MM k-member too so you can take advantage of the extra mounting options for the control arms. Chuck and I discussed the 3/4" problem at length. He was concerned about the changes that it brought.

 

you can also talk to pa racing about getting the motor mounts 1/2" down(like the cobra r) on a tubular k-member...

 

that's a really good solution that you can use WITH the 1/2" k-member spacers to net 1 full inch. The 2000 R like tommy mentioned had used 1/2" drop motor mounts. They put the oil pan SERIOUSLY close to the k-member but they work and when used with the spacers can help pull out some of the misalignment that the spacers induce.

Good tip illwill!

 

i have a 04 cobra tank/twin pumps with 18,000 on them everything is in excellent shape,im going return style with a rear exit sump with stainless lines. here are a few pics to see the condition if anyone is interested. pics of the cobra pumps,tank,and sump in the tank

 

R3d,

resoning behind that is the dude im gettin the kit from has it on a 5.4 already, and it comes with the CX racing FMIC. So i'm guessing it would be a pain to get a FMIC setup to work on the HPS intake? Im only planning on running 6lbs of boost for now, so i think i could get away without the IC for now, however at a later date could figure out a way to get it to work.

He is also interested in selling his modded L lower that he had on the kit. so thats the reason for the comparison questions.

 

Maybe im just lost as heck but wouldnt a FMIC (air-air) work fine with the HPS intake?
Just looked at the CXRacing website and Im lost lol.
Please please please excuse my FI ignorance.

 

air-air FMIC is not a problem with the HPS...it's a little harder with the lightning intake. air-water-air is packaged tighter in the L intake.

If you're going centrifugal then get the HPS. It's a lot simpler. If he's got all the bracketry and such for the modded L bottom, then that's not a bad option especially if price is a concern.

 

See what your sayin R3d, thanks man.

 

Lurkers, post up. Quit lurking. Tell us about your project. I can see you lurking.

 

im a lurker so ill post. i decided i am gonna try to find 03 cobra heat exchanger brackets for my lightning set-up so i am hunting that down so if anyone finds any give me a shout. also i think it is cool what horspla2000 did with the stock fuel rails and i may have someone local who can do the same thing.

also i was thinking about doing this.

http://www.f150online.com/forums/lig...lightning.html

basically the guy found out what size shot of nitrous to use on his lightning to get as close to the 450 hp mark as possible....safe stock short block limit..... while keeping the stock blower pulley. my supercharger came from a harley truck so i will have 6 pounds of boost instead of 8 and i figure since the na 5.4's have a bit more compression they would even out (6 lbs with higher compression vs 8 lbs with lower compression) and maybe i can get to the 450 mark until i have a built engine.

i want to do it like that so that the engine will not always be at the breaking point. i will hardly ever spray it. only time i would would be at the drag strip that i go to maybe twice a year.

anyone think this is a good idea or bad? lets hear some opinions !

come on you other lurkers....its your turn to write something

 

well, it been a few days and here's the update: Hps intake is on it's way (shipped out yesterday). Should be ordering the trick flow heads next saturday, (haven't decided if i want MMR to do a stage 1 port and polish job). I got my head gaskets in the other day. (for any of you looking to save a little money the trick flow MLS gaskets are made by fel-pro, at least mine were.) They came in the fel-pro box but had a trick flow sticker stuck on the outer plastic. Saves about $12. Also got the 5.4 timing chains along with the gaskets. I'm expecting the JBA shorties to arrive tomorrow or Monday.

My 2.5 blower cams finish selling on ebay tonight so I can start looking toward a new cam.

 

also..damn..i want one of those cobra tanks. I have the duel pumps and my gas gauge is messed up by a few gallons...oh well if I do everything I want to now I won't have anything to do in the future. At least that's what I tell myself and the wife...

 

this is the second engine i've built in a year. First was a 4.6 forged setup with a vortech and wasn't impressed it. I think instant torque is what i seek.

 

nitrous is good stuff used properly. I don't see a problem with a 125-150 shot. After that, you'll probably want to go direct port.

I'll even sell ya my nitrous kit cheap. It's brand new, never been hooked up. 200 bones + shipping. Add 50 + shipping for the bottle. I paid a good bit more than that and added parts to it.

If you can afford the port DO IT. Post up some pics of those JBA's when you get them. I want to see a couple clear shots of the rear primaries.

You'll get all you want and more with the 5.4 build you're doing.

 

sorry red but i already have a kit. that is a hell of a price though. if you can give me some pics of the kit i am sure i can find a buyer. do they have direct port kits for a lightning set-up?

 

well i may have a kit. its a zex wet kit made for a 96-04 gt. will it work?

 

come on guys...i know i was not the only one lurking around...don't be shy

 

yep. It'll work just fine.

Sorry for the lag... was out hunting for a few days.

 

well when your car is on the road u should go hunting.......for camaros. then when they go what the **** just happened tell them they just got beat by a 2 valve!!! then you can sell it.

 

Still waiting on parts to come in... meanwhile I just got off the phone with MMR and asked what's the difference in CFM between all their stages of Trick Flows vs. stock TF.
stage 1 = 10-15 cfm + for $2600
stage 2 = 20-25 cfm + for $2800
stage 3 = 30-35 cfm + for about $3000

Not really sure that 10-25 cfm is worth 600 to 800 bucks to me. Does this sound right to anyone?