View Poll Results: What are your 5.4L swap plans?
Voters: 220. You may not vote on this poll
Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine.
#7681
08-25-2009, 04:37 PM
The only difference between any 4.6 or 5.4 DOHC or SOHC motor is the initial price of a used long block...and depending on your sources shouldn't be more then between 400-1500. The only cost difference will be the DOHC and SOHC 5.4L setups will require some fabbed intake. That's it.
Building a 5.4 or 4.6 costs the exact same save Intake Manifold as long as you pick the correct block to start with.
As far as your initial post I believe there is a serious Market for Aftermarket 5.4L intake options. There are virtually no products available (Sullivan's don't count...pure race intake). Adaptor Plates are Junk, they simply are a bandaid on a broken leg...a serious hinderence to performance. There needs to be better options out there. Whoever seriously steps onto the scene with a viable manifold will profit from it. I'm designing an intake manifold for my 5.4L swap for my Senior Engineering project. If luck has it I'll be able to possibly pursue it as a business endeavor.
Philip K.
Building a 5.4 or 4.6 costs the exact same save Intake Manifold as long as you pick the correct block to start with.
As far as your initial post I believe there is a serious Market for Aftermarket 5.4L intake options. There are virtually no products available (Sullivan's don't count...pure race intake). Adaptor Plates are Junk, they simply are a bandaid on a broken leg...a serious hinderence to performance. There needs to be better options out there. Whoever seriously steps onto the scene with a viable manifold will profit from it. I'm designing an intake manifold for my 5.4L swap for my Senior Engineering project. If luck has it I'll be able to possibly pursue it as a business endeavor.
Philip K.
The 5.4 SOHC is NOT a bad idea, but I'm also scoping out the newer FRPP big bore MOD block with the stroker crank for close to the same cubes (and more space to work with).
I'm almost scared to wait too long, as with the current govt. administration playing the games of destruction they're playing I'm afraid there may not be too many left if I do wait too long.
#7682
08-25-2009, 04:51 PM
what are the specific parts that i will need to get for the 5.4 swap? such as, do i need to get pistons or rods and valves for a 5.4 or can they be for a 4.6 also? i just dont want to order any wrong parts for a 4.6 if i need them for a 5.4 lol.
i also had a question a few posts back
i also had a question a few posts back
#7683
08-25-2009, 08:17 PM
got the brand wrong r3d, it's a russell fitting # 640860
it's a 5/16" to a -6 AN for lt1 and ls1 motors.....
20.34 shipped from summit. but if your difficult like me and just have to have it in black, 26 bucks from russell direct....
it's a 5/16" to a -6 AN for lt1 and ls1 motors.....
20.34 shipped from summit. but if your difficult like me and just have to have it in black, 26 bucks from russell direct....
#7684
08-26-2009, 05:04 AM
what are the specific parts that i will need to get for the 5.4 swap? such as, do i need to get pistons or rods and valves for a 5.4 or can they be for a 4.6 also? i just dont want to order any wrong parts for a 4.6 if i need them for a 5.4 lol.
i also had a question a few posts back
i also had a question a few posts back
Pretty much get the Complete timing set for a 5.4, its not all 5.4 specific but you'll need it all anyway. oil pump is the same for both
I think some companies sell pistons for both 4.6/5.4 and they will both work but it depends on what compression you're looking for.
Crank and rods are 5.4 specific and the front cover
#7685
08-26-2009, 07:32 AM
I'm looking for someone that wants a 00'R hood in true blue that has a stocker to swap. It'd be a shame to mess up such a nice looking hood and I'm a little worried about it flapping in the wind with a big-ol hole cut in it. It already flaps pretty good at speed, thus the hood pins.
#7686
08-26-2009, 07:43 AM
The heads and everything in/on the heads are the same (either romeo or windsor)
Pretty much get the Complete timing set for a 5.4, its not all 5.4 specific but you'll need it all anyway. oil pump is the same for both
I think some companies sell pistons for both 4.6/5.4 and they will both work but it depends on what compression you're looking for.
Crank and rods are 5.4 specific and the front cover
Pretty much get the Complete timing set for a 5.4, its not all 5.4 specific but you'll need it all anyway. oil pump is the same for both
I think some companies sell pistons for both 4.6/5.4 and they will both work but it depends on what compression you're looking for.
Crank and rods are 5.4 specific and the front cover
im gonna have an updated list of parts for yall to look over here pretty soon
. there is a lot more involved when starting from just a block instead of an engine. im going to have to buy a lot of hardware likes bolts and crap too 
.another question. my stang and heads are 99 heads so will those bolt up to the 01 f150 engine??? i think one is a windsor and one is a romeo...
also, how much does the iron block weigh? shipping is going to be a biatch i have a feeling...
Last edited by liljojo4711; 08-26-2009 at 08:06 AM.
#7687
08-26-2009, 08:24 AM
without any issues. the best part about this swap is that the only real part you need other then he 5.4 engine itself is the adapters or intake. the exhaust will work with alittle elbo grease, the fuel lines seem to fit on a wider intake and all the bolt-ons work.
#7688
08-26-2009, 08:25 AM
#7690
08-26-2009, 11:01 AM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 9,865
tommy: is that the pressure side or return side? I'm trying to verify if the feed line on 99+ cars is 3/8" or 5/16". I'm pretty sure it's 5/16 but not sure and poor enough for it to matter.
#7691
08-26-2009, 11:04 AM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 9,865
liljo, you're worrying too much. 1 step at a time and we'll help you out.
You'll need a lot of little bits but those all depend on the condition of the motor/block you get. Let's get your bottom end in your hands and then we'll cover it off with you part number by part number so you don't get any surprises or, worse, confused by all the details.
Shipping via frieght is about 200 bucks... don't trip.
You'll need a lot of little bits but those all depend on the condition of the motor/block you get. Let's get your bottom end in your hands and then we'll cover it off with you part number by part number so you don't get any surprises or, worse, confused by all the details.
Shipping via frieght is about 200 bucks... don't trip.
#7692
08-26-2009, 11:11 AM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 9,865
ok, whoever has questions, please PM me. We're getting a lot of new guys and a lot of confusion that's not being helped by the thread as much as it could be.
Senior guys: tommy, dan, etc... (guys with completed swaps and experience doing it): perhaps we can divy up the newbs and take them on individually in some sort of mentoring so they can have a guy to go to for bulky answers. As soon as they have the basics covered and aren't totally confused anymore, we can send them back into the thread and let them do the research.
I don't want liljo and the others taht are just starting to get de-motivated by the volume in here causing us to miss their ?'s.
Senior guys: tommy, dan, etc... (guys with completed swaps and experience doing it): perhaps we can divy up the newbs and take them on individually in some sort of mentoring so they can have a guy to go to for bulky answers. As soon as they have the basics covered and aren't totally confused anymore, we can send them back into the thread and let them do the research.
I don't want liljo and the others taht are just starting to get de-motivated by the volume in here causing us to miss their ?'s.
#7693
08-26-2009, 11:51 AM
if its going to cost $200 to ship i might as well try and find one close to me for $100 or so...
i think thats a good idea about pming u and doing things that way. ill start pming u from now on lol. i be ur first apprentice
.
i think thats a good idea about pming u and doing things that way. ill start pming u from now on lol. i be ur first apprentice
.
#7694
08-26-2009, 11:55 AM
anyone can also email me (myillwillinc@aol.com) with any questions.
r3d, the fitting is for the return on chevy cars, feed line on 96-04 mustangs.
r3d, the fitting is for the return on chevy cars, feed line on 96-04 mustangs.
Last edited by r3dn3ck; 08-26-2009 at 01:34 PM. Reason: your email is all over the place... google it sometime. hehe, left yours alone.
#7695
08-26-2009, 01:27 PM
I also have this swap completed and running strongly. You can email me whenever with questions at:
you all got my email now, spammers don't need it anymore.
I tore apart and built from the ground up, and is my 5th mod motor swap (2nd into my car). I have some knowledge and how to (sometimes )
you all got my email now, spammers don't need it anymore.
I tore apart and built from the ground up, and is my 5th mod motor swap (2nd into my car). I have some knowledge and how to (sometimes
)
Last edited by r3dn3ck; 08-26-2009 at 01:35 PM. Reason: you all got his email now, spammers don't need it anymore.
#7696
08-26-2009, 02:32 PM
pistons
my 3v 5.4 has flat top pistons should i replace with dish pistons to run 2v pi heads or should i leave the flat tops in and i need an after market cam suggestion
THANKS !!!
#7698
08-26-2009, 07:19 PM
My current 2v has one cylinder burning oil, I'm replacing it with a 5.4 3v. A budget minded person could put in one piston and be ready to roll on the cheap..... Not looking for much but keep in mind would cost a few hundred to ship, pm if interested.
I think the thread has simply gotten too big for its own good. My suggestion would be to close it and start fresh. First post should be a small compilation of parts and information, nice and condensed and let folks ask questions from there...
Not looking for much but keep in mind would cost a few hundred to ship, pm if interested.ok, whoever has questions, please PM me. We're getting a lot of new guys and a lot of confusion that's not being helped by the thread as much as it could be.
Senior guys: tommy, dan, etc... (guys with completed swaps and experience doing it): perhaps we can divy up the newbs and take them on individually in some sort of mentoring so they can have a guy to go to for bulky answers. As soon as they have the basics covered and aren't totally confused anymore, we can send them back into the thread and let them do the research.
I don't want liljo and the others taht are just starting to get de-motivated by the volume in here causing us to miss their ?'s.
Senior guys: tommy, dan, etc... (guys with completed swaps and experience doing it): perhaps we can divy up the newbs and take them on individually in some sort of mentoring so they can have a guy to go to for bulky answers. As soon as they have the basics covered and aren't totally confused anymore, we can send them back into the thread and let them do the research.
I don't want liljo and the others taht are just starting to get de-motivated by the volume in here causing us to miss their ?'s.
#7699
08-27-2009, 07:35 AM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 9,865
Thought of it but this thread is more a social thing than pure tech anymore. I think though that we could start encouraging people to start their own swap thread and ask long questions there so they get the answer in the subject titled thread. It'd make searching easier and info more topically appropriate.
This one has turned into the long story of all of our swaps and people look for it to figure out if they want to do it... it's sorta got a life of its own.
This one has turned into the long story of all of our swaps and people look for it to figure out if they want to do it... it's sorta got a life of its own.
#7700
08-27-2009, 07:43 AM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 9,865
Note (and I got post 7700 neener):
I swapped my hood out yesterday. No more cobra R hood, so the pic in my sig is nearly totally accurate. The only thing not accurate is I have a 01 cobra front bumper cover.
I'm going to start chopping the hole in it pretty soon.
Could one of you with a Lightning swap LMK where the cut lines start from the rear corners.
I swapped my hood out yesterday. No more cobra R hood, so the pic in my sig is nearly totally accurate. The only thing not accurate is I have a 01 cobra front bumper cover.
I'm going to start chopping the hole in it pretty soon.
Could one of you with a Lightning swap LMK where the cut lines start from the rear corners.
#7701
08-27-2009, 02:26 PM
r3dn3ck i have see a few lightning swaps thru thu hood but seems like everybody wants to just butch the hood with a big *** hole, i wanted mine to fit the contours of the motor but yet have enough room all the way around the blower for the motor to move under high revs,so i cut bout inche and half all the way around . i cut it about 3 times first i cut out for the blower,then i put the plenum on and finally got my cold air intake figured out the i cut around that,i was just trying to avoid over cutting its better to have to much then not enough lol here are a few pic hope they will give you some ideas
Last edited by the12fast4u; 08-27-2009 at 02:38 PM.
#7703
08-27-2009, 03:23 PM
r3dn3ck i have see a few lightning swaps thru thu hood but seems like everybody wants to just butch the hood with a big *** hole, i wanted mine to fit the contours of the motor but yet have enough room all the way around the blower for the motor to move under high revs,so i cut bout inche and half all the way around . i cut it about 3 times first i cut out for the blower,then i put the plenum on and finally got my cold air intake figured out the i cut around that,i was just trying to avoid over cutting its better to have to much then not enough lol here are a few pic hope they will give you some ideas
I'd love to go F-body or vette hunting with that thing!
#7704
08-27-2009, 04:26 PM
Are you able to drive this in the rain without getting the CoilPacks wet and arching off the walls? Thats the only problem I forsee when doing this to the hood.
#7705
08-27-2009, 05:01 PM
the day i got it dyno tuned it was pouring down rain,it didnt seem to be an issue ,i drove it 70 miles in the rain,the car drives with stock driveability but when you stomp the pedal it turns into a beast! there is nothing like hearing 18psi screaming from the eaton ,but the kenne bell 2.8 is in the near future lol
,but the kenne bell 2.8 is in the near future lol
#7706
08-27-2009, 08:29 PM
![Widowmaker[X]'s Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23a7c460' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>W</text></svg>)
the day i got it dyno tuned it was pouring down rain,it didnt seem to be an issue ,i drove it 70 miles in the rain,the car drives with stock driveability but when you stomp the pedal it turns into a beast! there is nothing like hearing 18psi screaming from the eaton ,but the kenne bell 2.8 is in the near future lol
,but the kenne bell 2.8 is in the near future lol
#7707
08-28-2009, 07:58 AM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 9,865
it'd be 8" tall in places and block the view of that big ****** blower and about 1/2 the available view out the already itty bitty front window. I'll only have 8psi but running 100 octane and methanol should let us play with the timing a good bit.
I swapped my hood. Got stock 03GT premium hood. The kid was in college ( = broke ) and doing the CAI and lowering mods still. He tripped the **** out when we installed my R hood on his car and I handed him the hood pins. Talk about fully trippin. So the pic in the sig is closer yet to how the car looks now. Cobra bumper is the only difference until this weekend. I'm going to cut the hood and put the compressor on for good.
I swapped my hood. Got stock 03GT premium hood. The kid was in college ( = broke ) and doing the CAI and lowering mods still. He tripped the **** out when we installed my R hood on his car and I handed him the hood pins. Talk about fully trippin. So the pic in the sig is closer yet to how the car looks now. Cobra bumper is the only difference until this weekend. I'm going to cut the hood and put the compressor on for good.
Last edited by r3dn3ck; 08-28-2009 at 08:03 AM.
#7708
08-28-2009, 10:12 AM
well i did a little research on the hood issue while i was doing the swap,and i came across a lightning stang from fennell performance.the guy has a 6 inche cowl hood and it still had to be cut.a custom hood would be nice
but making it look good and tryin to tuck all that motor under it is going to be a job. 6 inche cowl hood is to much for me ,im going kenne bell in the near future and the lower blower profile will be much more manageable,that should take anywhere from 3 to 6 inches off the height,i have a phenolic plenum spacer between the blower and the plenum,tryin to get as much air as possible.so thats not helping the height either,but if anyone has pics of hoods on lightning stangs custom,cut,cowl......any style i would really like to see them. that way i know all my options on different routes to go with on a hood remedy
but making it look good and tryin to tuck all that motor under it is going to be a job. 6 inche cowl hood is to much for me ,im going kenne bell in the near future and the lower blower profile will be much more manageable,that should take anywhere from 3 to 6 inches off the height,i have a phenolic plenum spacer between the blower and the plenum,tryin to get as much air as possible.so thats not helping the height either,but if anyone has pics of hoods on lightning stangs custom,cut,cowl......any style i would really like to see them. that way i know all my options on different routes to go with on a hood remedy
#7709
08-28-2009, 01:35 PM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 9,865
just ordered a bunch of crap from summit:
AER-FBM2421 Reducer, Female -10 AN to Male -8 2 $23.90
MRF-MP-3004 -8 ORB COUPLER 1 $31.39
RUS-624020 TWIST-LOK HOSE END STRAIGHT -8AN 4 $23.80
RUS-640860 FUEL RAIL TO -6AN 1 $14.95
SUM-220846 -8AN TO 3/8 NPT ADAPTER 6 $17.70
SUM-220887 -08 90 SWIVEL HOSE END 2 $29.90
SUM-230820 S.S. BRAIDED HOSE-8 20FT 1 $80.95
EDIT: Damn that crap adds up fast. And that's just a handful of parts. Consider how much AN crap I have under the hood.
Finishes my fuel system under the hood and the IC setup except for the pump itself. Gunna bust some *** on it this weekend and finish as much as possible. May finish up the inlet piping if I get a chance to cut the hood. I need a die grinder with a cutoff wheel.
AER-FBM2421 Reducer, Female -10 AN to Male -8 2 $23.90
MRF-MP-3004 -8 ORB COUPLER 1 $31.39
RUS-624020 TWIST-LOK HOSE END STRAIGHT -8AN 4 $23.80
RUS-640860 FUEL RAIL TO -6AN 1 $14.95
SUM-220846 -8AN TO 3/8 NPT ADAPTER 6 $17.70
SUM-220887 -08 90 SWIVEL HOSE END 2 $29.90
SUM-230820 S.S. BRAIDED HOSE-8 20FT 1 $80.95
EDIT: Damn that crap adds up fast. And that's just a handful of parts. Consider how much AN crap I have under the hood.
Finishes my fuel system under the hood and the IC setup except for the pump itself. Gunna bust some *** on it this weekend and finish as much as possible. May finish up the inlet piping if I get a chance to cut the hood. I need a die grinder with a cutoff wheel.
#7710
08-28-2009, 02:50 PM
Buy a Cervini 71/73-style Ram Air hood or graft on a BOSS 429 Mustang scoop instead.
First thing I asked when I first saw the 2010 Mustang was "What's next ... a small block Chevy engine ... ???"