well no one posted but i think i found out my problem and it was the throw out bearing and this one is a ford one and only 5000-6000 miles old ;x

so i said screw it if im gona be pulling bearings every 2 months im gona buy cheap and bought a advanced auto 15 dollar one so i can finish today

the old bearing i could put the part that sits on the input shaft housing in a vice and the outer race that pushes on the flywheel would move up down and side to side till the inside of the race hit the outside of the middle interior race so i got a dud from ford to :< this one only squeeled for about 2 days the last one was a valeo one and it squeeled for months before i replaced it lol. and the interior of the bearing wasnt shot like this one just grinded a lil bit while turning but no movement of the race

 

What you described is suppose to happen, as the bearing is a self-centering one. It's bad when it's hard to turn when a thrust/side load is applied or like my old Torrington one, have the bearing face more forward and aft. Also, Valeo is who makes the Ford bearings so your last one was Valeo as well. Good luck w/ the aftermarket, I've tried and it failed me so I'm trying Ford this time instead.

 

well it didnt click around like it does now cause i always play with bearings when i first get them to see if they move around alot and this one had no movement when bought and now it clicks around when pushed new one also does not move around

 

k... that musta been a post killer or something. Back onto goings on, I've enlisted an electrical engineer and an old' school mechanic and a mustang tuner to try and help me seal the car up this weekend. We'll see. It should be a balancer and a belt away from fire-up by next weekend if we can pull it all off.

 

hey guys, so im having trouble with my swap, i have a 97 gt, auto so i think it has a t-45 or something, i don't know. all the flexplates i've been ordering for a 5.4 with an 8 bolt have a bolt circle of 11.4 inches for the torque converter, my TC has a bolt circle of 10.6 in. What can i do now? i've tried different applications but they all have the same bolt circle pattern, only thing i came accross was using a TC from a 99 or 00 mustang, which has a 4r70w or something, right? can i use that since it has 31 splines and my converter has 31 splines? im really lost here, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

that should work as far as I know, any of you guys got an auto swap done and can tip us off?

 

You should have a 4R70w, so it should all be the same, not that that helps you. The only thing that comes to mind is they usually have an offset built in, So spin it a couple times to see if you can get the holes to line up.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS

As far as I know, the only differences I've seen are 6 and 8 bolt.

 

a little research shows that the AOD-E that is in your car, and a 4R70E that is in most Ford trucks. the 4r70e is basically an upgraded aod-e with a wider gear range. based on this info, i would start looking for TC's that come in 5.4/4r70e equipped f150's. look into 97-up f150's, 250's, and expeditions.

 

hunters auto had a 8bolt flexplate on his 00 gt. if fit right up in there.

 

AODE was only in the 5.0 cars. All Mod engines got the 4R70W (except the early cars that got the AODE, which were not the Mustangs).

 

http://www.becontrols.com/tech/tech.htm

this is where i was getting most of the info, plus a cross check with wikipedia

 

Don't trust Wikipedia. I needed to fix a lot of misinformation on the Mustang page (and if I cared, on other pages too). The only mention of year on the link you provided was the year that the 4R70W received improvements. The only time the AODE came w/ a Mod engine was w/ the early 4.6s w/ the SBF bellhousing pattern, in which no Mustang had these early blocks.

 

that is my question exactly, since my 97 had a different tranny than the 99-00 gt, can i use a 99-00 TC for my 97? both having 31 splines.

i need to have this car running by next week, its really taking a toll on my termie, so if i cant get it running by next week, if anyone wants to trade my 5.4 for a 4.6, keep on the lookout, i might just do it

 

if the splines match and the bolt pattern matches, then you should be good. the stall may be a little different. this could cause a minor problem, but if you reset the computer you should be fine. the computer should relearn the new setup. for the future, i would recommend a custom tune, and a custom TC.

 

ok great news, just got a 5.4l engine for 425 bucks! bad news, i have little experience and the engine came in parts. I went to my local oreillys and they basically mocked the fact that i was even trying thi swap. my dad sucks when it comes to mechanics(he has an accord) and my friends counting down the days til i give up. someone please help!

sam - 01 roush

PS when i say little experience i dont mean none at all, i just have never built an engine

 

how do i reset the computer? can a tuner do it? i have an sct xcal3 that i will be using, so i will be getting a custom tune.

how hard is it going from an auto to a 5spd?

 

just unhook the battery for alittle while,
Did you ever try another flexplate? I just wonder if the the van/truck you got the motor from had an E40D, not a 4R70w.

Its really not that hard to swap to a 5-speed, just have to buy all the parts.

 

Just need the clutch pedal assembly and the cable and junk. You can get the whole shootin' match from Mustang Parts inc out of smyrna georgia.

 

If you seriously want to build the motor yourself you should simply reconsider. If you won't do that then invest in some plastigauge and be sure to buy ARP head and main studs so you can re-use them. Get a GOOD torque wrench (spend a couple hundred) and an engine stand. Make a clean room somewhere in your house where you can assemble it without any dust. It's not actually that hard to do but it's easy to **** up. Buying the parts and having someone assemble them is still a good option.

Thoughts?

 

check to see what a local shop would charge to rebuild the longblock. if you bring it in with the parts it might be cheaper,faster, easier then you doing it.

 

Im only at about page 80 in this thread so my apologies if its been asked but Ive been reading a 4.6 and 5.4 block is basically the same with the 5.4 being a longer stroke. My question is why not just rebuild your 4.6 using a 5.4 crank since most of you are buying new pistons/rods anyway? Wouldn't this make the intake and exhaust issues easier as well?

 

thanks for the replies, it sound like if it would be cheaper to take it to a shop. i would rather do that.
1. what items would i need to bring him
2. whats the average cost
3. is a gasket set really around 400?

 

good point about the flexplate. honestly, i think your better off making the automatic work than trying to throw in a manual. when you go to the parts store, have them pull a flexplate for the vehicle you are getting the TC from. better safe than sorry.

 

wow, just spoke to my local machine shop and asked them the amount it would be to rebuild my engine and they said 2200-2600... that scares me. if anyone lives in the kansas city area let me know

 

All 96-04 cars had the 4R70W. What may be wrong, as was pointed out, is the truck may have had the E4OD auto, which may require a different flex plate. What truck did you say the engine was out of?

 

Anyone that has never BUILT an engine, let alone a ford modular, should not even attempt to put one together, its a lot like pissing in the wind, if your lucky you stay dry but chances are good your gonna get pissed on..... there are so many variables(the tolerances on these engines are in the thousandths of an inch and torquing sequence, things you should know by heart, i think red said something about plastiguage and a clean room(it only takes one spec of sand to trash your journal) thats part of it, but the biggest part of all is just knowledge, knowledge that comes with experience.... now if your UNexperienced and still want to do this, go for it and get AAA for the tow when your engine goes bye-bye! if your like me and don't have the money for buying parts over and over again and all the machining$$$$$$$ just buy a shortblock from MMR its like $2600 and definetly worth every penny, slap on your heads and the HPS intake and everything else from your old motor and your all set..... The only reason i say this is the parts for our fords already cost so much as is, we dont need to keep buying the same part over again cuz we didn't do it right from jump.... no i'm not saying you can't do it but its definetly worth the money doin it right, nothing worse than lining up with a shitty chevy and havin a motor blow.... kinda hurts the ego a bit, and god forbid its your daily driver youd be screwed unless you have the money sitting around(and it will take probably about $2600 for your repairs which is what you could have paid for the shortblock)

 

okay. lets see if you guys can help me figure this out. three bolts hold my alternator on; two main ones and then the third comes through the bracket that holds the plug wires. well upon doing the swap with the hps intake the bracket didnt line up so i only used the two main bolts.. they snapped. figured it was bc i didnt have the third one. so i cut and welded the bracket nicely. now im using all three bolts again. havent had a lick of problems from her in a long long time, untill about 30 min ago. all 3 bolts snapped. any ideas?

 

For the most part I would agree, but even putting the heads back on can get complicated, you have to make sure the cams are timed correctly, which can be a very expensive learning experience also.

Thats rough man, I've been running the 2 bolts for about 4k miles now... The only thing I can think of is maybe the belt is too tight, unless you used some weak bolts.

 

How tight is ur serpentine belt? if not to tight it could be a number of things. bad bearing on alternator pulley... low grade bolts get better grade ..somethings binding up pulling down on the alternator with the belt another bearing perhaps somewhere else that would cause a pull.... my alternator on the 4.6 never had all 3 bolts and on 5.4 only has 2 still and have not broke... with about 1.5k-2k miles on the car now theres a number of factors.

Timing i used the Gears for the year and model of heads i bought along with my cloyes 160 dollar timing kit "Single crank gear and marked chains..." with stage 2 CMS N/A cams no degreeing and no valve slaping ;> car runs/drives like a dream with NPI bottom PI top end

i rebuilt my engine from a bare block to fully assembled myself using a haynes manual for tightening sequences and torque specs and has the oil pressure of a brand new engine runs great only wish i woulda checked over all my damn lash adjusts since i got one sticking otherwise no other problems. well cept a tortured throw out bearing and old clutch haha


If your going to rebuild it urself dont make it a rush job..ya plastiguageing and such isnt the best way but for a motor that will last for a while guarenteed not as long as a MMR short block but will last if not beat on to hard. if MMR is outa your budget then rebuild this one its gona cost a grand or so in bearings gaskets and misc parts if you do it right. but be patient dont make it a 1 month boom its done build i didnt but i have a buddy who does this type or work for a living on diesels and knows how a tenth hundredth even a thousandths worth of to much clearance will kill your engine.

i myself dont know any other way besides plastiguage to check clearances but plastiguage every rod journal every main journal and make sure its all good get a haynes manual for torque specs tightening sequences clearance specs if your going to do it yourself atleast do it right no i think its the right torque bolts get a torque wrench i recomend a 3/8 and a 1/2 ones for different applications on the engine and get the 3/8 in INCH pound not foot and the 1/2 in foot lb

 

Assuming *everything* is in pieces, you have a real problem. Everything pretty much needs to go back to it's original location. Pistons should be ok, but the rods/caps are matched, and MUST be paired together, same with the main caps.

Check around with other shops. I'm not too familiar with machine work, but that quote does sound a bit high. Also as mentioned, I wouldnt tackle this without the required knowlege or someone who knows how. Everything must be measured for correct assembly. After you add up the cost for tools and supplies, gaskets, machine work, etc you will probably be in the neighborhood of a reasonable rebuild.

Also as mentioned, a BRAND NEW full forged shortblock from MMR can be had for about $2600. Killer deal if you have the cash.