View Poll Results: What are your 5.4L swap plans?
Voters: 220. You may not vote on this poll
Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine.
#7501
well no one posted but i think i found out my problem and it was the throw out bearing and this one is a ford one and only 5000-6000 miles old ;x
so i said screw it if im gona be pulling bearings every 2 months im gona buy cheap and bought a advanced auto 15 dollar one so i can finish today
the old bearing i could put the part that sits on the input shaft housing in a vice and the outer race that pushes on the flywheel would move up down and side to side till the inside of the race hit the outside of the middle interior race so i got a dud from ford to :< this one only squeeled for about 2 days the last one was a valeo one and it squeeled for months before i replaced it lol. and the interior of the bearing wasnt shot like this one just grinded a lil bit while turning but no movement of the race
so i said screw it if im gona be pulling bearings every 2 months im gona buy cheap and bought a advanced auto 15 dollar one so i can finish today
the old bearing i could put the part that sits on the input shaft housing in a vice and the outer race that pushes on the flywheel would move up down and side to side till the inside of the race hit the outside of the middle interior race so i got a dud from ford to :< this one only squeeled for about 2 days the last one was a valeo one and it squeeled for months before i replaced it lol. and the interior of the bearing wasnt shot like this one just grinded a lil bit while turning but no movement of the race
#7502
What you described is suppose to happen, as the bearing is a self-centering one. It's bad when it's hard to turn when a thrust/side load is applied or like my old Torrington one, have the bearing face more forward and aft. Also, Valeo is who makes the Ford bearings so your last one was Valeo as well. Good luck w/ the aftermarket, I've tried and it failed me so I'm trying Ford this time instead.
#7503
well it didnt click around like it does now cause i always play with bearings when i first get them to see if they move around alot and this one had no movement when bought and now it clicks around when pushed new one also does not move around
#7504
k... that musta been a post killer or something. Back onto goings on, I've enlisted an electrical engineer and an old' school mechanic and a mustang tuner to try and help me seal the car up this weekend. We'll see. It should be a balancer and a belt away from fire-up by next weekend if we can pull it all off.
#7505
hey guys, so im having trouble with my swap, i have a 97 gt, auto so i think it has a t-45 or something, i don't know. all the flexplates i've been ordering for a 5.4 with an 8 bolt have a bolt circle of 11.4 inches for the torque converter, my TC has a bolt circle of 10.6 in. What can i do now? i've tried different applications but they all have the same bolt circle pattern, only thing i came accross was using a TC from a 99 or 00 mustang, which has a 4r70w or something, right? can i use that since it has 31 splines and my converter has 31 splines? im really lost here, so any help would be greatly appreciated.
#7507
You should have a 4R70w, so it should all be the same, not that that helps you. The only thing that comes to mind is they usually have an offset built in, So spin it a couple times to see if you can get the holes to line up.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS
As far as I know, the only differences I've seen are 6 and 8 bolt.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS
As far as I know, the only differences I've seen are 6 and 8 bolt.
#7508
a little research shows that the AOD-E that is in your car, and a 4R70E that is in most Ford trucks. the 4r70e is basically an upgraded aod-e with a wider gear range. based on this info, i would start looking for TC's that come in 5.4/4r70e equipped f150's. look into 97-up f150's, 250's, and expeditions.
#7510
a little research shows that the AOD-E that is in your car, and a 4R70E that is in most Ford trucks. the 4r70e is basically an upgraded aod-e with a wider gear range. based on this info, i would start looking for TC's that come in 5.4/4r70e equipped f150's. look into 97-up f150's, 250's, and expeditions.
#7511
http://www.becontrols.com/tech/tech.htm
this is where i was getting most of the info, plus a cross check with wikipedia
this is where i was getting most of the info, plus a cross check with wikipedia
#7512
http://www.becontrols.com/tech/tech.htm
this is where i was getting most of the info, plus a cross check with wikipedia
this is where i was getting most of the info, plus a cross check with wikipedia
#7513
i need to have this car running by next week, its really taking a toll on my termie, so if i cant get it running by next week, if anyone wants to trade my 5.4 for a 4.6, keep on the lookout, i might just do it
#7514
if the splines match and the bolt pattern matches, then you should be good. the stall may be a little different. this could cause a minor problem, but if you reset the computer you should be fine. the computer should relearn the new setup. for the future, i would recommend a custom tune, and a custom TC.
#7515
ok great news, just got a 5.4l engine for 425 bucks! bad news, i have little experience and the engine came in parts. I went to my local oreillys and they basically mocked the fact that i was even trying thi swap. my dad sucks when it comes to mechanics(he has an accord) and my friends counting down the days til i give up. someone please help!
sam - 01 roush
PS when i say little experience i dont mean none at all, i just have never built an engine
sam - 01 roush
PS when i say little experience i dont mean none at all, i just have never built an engine
#7516
if the splines match and the bolt pattern matches, then you should be good. the stall may be a little different. this could cause a minor problem, but if you reset the computer you should be fine. the computer should relearn the new setup. for the future, i would recommend a custom tune, and a custom TC.
how hard is it going from an auto to a 5spd?
#7517
Did you ever try another flexplate? I just wonder if the the van/truck you got the motor from had an E40D, not a 4R70w.
Its really not that hard to swap to a 5-speed, just have to buy all the parts.
#7519
ok great news, just got a 5.4l engine for 425 bucks! bad news, i have little experience and the engine came in parts. I went to my local oreillys and they basically mocked the fact that i was even trying thi swap. my dad sucks when it comes to mechanics(he has an accord) and my friends counting down the days til i give up. someone please help!
sam - 01 roush
PS when i say little experience i dont mean none at all, i just have never built an engine
sam - 01 roush
PS when i say little experience i dont mean none at all, i just have never built an engine
Thoughts?
#7520
ok great news, just got a 5.4l engine for 425 bucks! bad news, i have little experience and the engine came in parts. I went to my local oreillys and they basically mocked the fact that i was even trying thi swap. my dad sucks when it comes to mechanics(he has an accord) and my friends counting down the days til i give up. someone please help!
sam - 01 roush
PS when i say little experience i dont mean none at all, i just have never built an engine
sam - 01 roush
PS when i say little experience i dont mean none at all, i just have never built an engine
#7521
Im only at about page 80 in this thread so my apologies if its been asked but Ive been reading a 4.6 and 5.4 block is basically the same with the 5.4 being a longer stroke. My question is why not just rebuild your 4.6 using a 5.4 crank since most of you are buying new pistons/rods anyway? Wouldn't this make the intake and exhaust issues easier as well?
#7523
good point about the flexplate. honestly, i think your better off making the automatic work than trying to throw in a manual. when you go to the parts store, have them pull a flexplate for the vehicle you are getting the TC from. better safe than sorry.
#7526
THIS NEEDS TO BE SAID
Anyone that has never BUILT an engine, let alone a ford modular, should not even attempt to put one together, its a lot like pissing in the wind, if your lucky you stay dry but chances are good your gonna get pissed on..... there are so many variables(the tolerances on these engines are in the thousandths of an inch and torquing sequence, things you should know by heart, i think red said something about plastiguage and a clean room(it only takes one spec of sand to trash your journal) thats part of it, but the biggest part of all is just knowledge, knowledge that comes with experience.... now if your UNexperienced and still want to do this, go for it and get AAA for the tow when your engine goes bye-bye! if your like me and don't have the money for buying parts over and over again and all the machining$$$$$$$ just buy a shortblock from MMR its like $2600 and definetly worth every penny, slap on your heads and the HPS intake and everything else from your old motor and your all set..... The only reason i say this is the parts for our fords already cost so much as is, we dont need to keep buying the same part over again cuz we didn't do it right from jump.... no i'm not saying you can't do it but its definetly worth the money doin it right, nothing worse than lining up with a shitty chevy and havin a motor blow.... kinda hurts the ego a bit, and god forbid its your daily driver youd be screwed unless you have the money sitting around(and it will take probably about $2600 for your repairs which is what you could have paid for the shortblock)
Last edited by tsb6980; 07-30-2009 at 04:02 PM.
#7527
okay. lets see if you guys can help me figure this out. three bolts hold my alternator on; two main ones and then the third comes through the bracket that holds the plug wires. well upon doing the swap with the hps intake the bracket didnt line up so i only used the two main bolts.. they snapped. figured it was bc i didnt have the third one. so i cut and welded the bracket nicely. now im using all three bolts again. havent had a lick of problems from her in a long long time, untill about 30 min ago. all 3 bolts snapped. any ideas?
#7528
Anyone that has never BUILT an engine, let alone a ford modular, should not even attempt to put one together, its a lot like pissing in the wind, if your lucky you stay dry but chances are good your gonna get pissed on..... there are so many variables(the tolerances on these engines are in the thousandths of an inch and torquing sequence, things you should know by heart, i think red said something about plastiguage and a clean room(it only takes one spec of sand to trash your journal) thats part of it, but the biggest part of all is just knowledge, knowledge that comes with experience.... now if your UNexperienced and still want to do this, go for it and get AAA for the tow when your engine goes bye-bye! if your like me and don't have the money for buying parts over and over again and all the machining$$$$$$$ just buy a shortblock from MMR its like $2600 and definetly worth every penny, slap on your heads and the HPS intake and everything else from your old motor and your all set..... The only reason i say this is the parts for our fords already cost so much as is, we dont need to keep buying the same part over again cuz we didn't do it right from jump.... no i'm not saying you can't do it but its definetly worth the money doin it right, nothing worse than lining up with a shitty chevy and havin a motor blow.... kinda hurts the ego a bit, and god forbid its your daily driver youd be screwed unless you have the money sitting around(and it will take probably about $2600 for your repairs which is what you could have paid for the shortblock)
okay. lets see if you guys can help me figure this out. three bolts hold my alternator on; two main ones and then the third comes through the bracket that holds the plug wires. well upon doing the swap with the hps intake the bracket didnt line up so i only used the two main bolts.. they snapped. figured it was bc i didnt have the third one. so i cut and welded the bracket nicely. now im using all three bolts again. havent had a lick of problems from her in a long long time, untill about 30 min ago. all 3 bolts snapped. any ideas?
Last edited by Morgan The Black; 07-30-2009 at 06:27 PM.
#7529
How tight is ur serpentine belt? if not to tight it could be a number of things. bad bearing on alternator pulley... low grade bolts get better grade ..somethings binding up pulling down on the alternator with the belt another bearing perhaps somewhere else that would cause a pull.... my alternator on the 4.6 never had all 3 bolts and on 5.4 only has 2 still and have not broke... with about 1.5k-2k miles on the car now theres a number of factors.
Timing i used the Gears for the year and model of heads i bought along with my cloyes 160 dollar timing kit "Single crank gear and marked chains..." with stage 2 CMS N/A cams no degreeing and no valve slaping ;> car runs/drives like a dream with NPI bottom PI top end
i rebuilt my engine from a bare block to fully assembled myself using a haynes manual for tightening sequences and torque specs and has the oil pressure of a brand new engine runs great only wish i woulda checked over all my damn lash adjusts since i got one sticking otherwise no other problems. well cept a tortured throw out bearing and old clutch haha
If your going to rebuild it urself dont make it a rush job..ya plastiguageing and such isnt the best way but for a motor that will last for a while guarenteed not as long as a MMR short block but will last if not beat on to hard. if MMR is outa your budget then rebuild this one its gona cost a grand or so in bearings gaskets and misc parts if you do it right. but be patient dont make it a 1 month boom its done build i didnt but i have a buddy who does this type or work for a living on diesels and knows how a tenth hundredth even a thousandths worth of to much clearance will kill your engine.
i myself dont know any other way besides plastiguage to check clearances but plastiguage every rod journal every main journal and make sure its all good get a haynes manual for torque specs tightening sequences clearance specs if your going to do it yourself atleast do it right no i think its the right torque bolts get a torque wrench i recomend a 3/8 and a 1/2 ones for different applications on the engine and get the 3/8 in INCH pound not foot and the 1/2 in foot lb
Timing i used the Gears for the year and model of heads i bought along with my cloyes 160 dollar timing kit "Single crank gear and marked chains..." with stage 2 CMS N/A cams no degreeing and no valve slaping ;> car runs/drives like a dream with NPI bottom PI top end
i rebuilt my engine from a bare block to fully assembled myself using a haynes manual for tightening sequences and torque specs and has the oil pressure of a brand new engine runs great only wish i woulda checked over all my damn lash adjusts since i got one sticking otherwise no other problems. well cept a tortured throw out bearing and old clutch haha
If your going to rebuild it urself dont make it a rush job..ya plastiguageing and such isnt the best way but for a motor that will last for a while guarenteed not as long as a MMR short block but will last if not beat on to hard. if MMR is outa your budget then rebuild this one its gona cost a grand or so in bearings gaskets and misc parts if you do it right. but be patient dont make it a 1 month boom its done build i didnt but i have a buddy who does this type or work for a living on diesels and knows how a tenth hundredth even a thousandths worth of to much clearance will kill your engine.
i myself dont know any other way besides plastiguage to check clearances but plastiguage every rod journal every main journal and make sure its all good get a haynes manual for torque specs tightening sequences clearance specs if your going to do it yourself atleast do it right no i think its the right torque bolts get a torque wrench i recomend a 3/8 and a 1/2 ones for different applications on the engine and get the 3/8 in INCH pound not foot and the 1/2 in foot lb
Last edited by 97gtstang; 07-30-2009 at 06:43 PM.
#7530
Check around with other shops. I'm not too familiar with machine work, but that quote does sound a bit high. Also as mentioned, I wouldnt tackle this without the required knowlege or someone who knows how. Everything must be measured for correct assembly. After you add up the cost for tools and supplies, gaskets, machine work, etc you will probably be in the neighborhood of a reasonable rebuild.
Also as mentioned, a BRAND NEW full forged shortblock from MMR can be had for about $2600. Killer deal if you have the cash.