305 will be sweet and i'll be even happier. I dropped the k member when i got home from work today. i'm glad i have a light tubular one, helps alot. and took the driver side header off and test fit the LT. i have to grind some on the egr cap on the header, touches the steering shaft barely. and the part that the kmember attaches to under the car, will have to modify that corner peice. should have more done tomorrow afternoon and all done by saturday. new hpipe will be in tomorrow.

 

sweet i will have to come over and check it out.

 

The LT's are a no go. the driver side steering shaft is totally in the way, if i could spread the LT's in the middle so it could slide through, sure, but it's a no go for me. Custom headers will probably be a must if someone wants LT's that bad. i'm going to get some shorties, should still get some ponies since the heads are stage 2 port and polished, so i know the exhaust side flows way more than stock, hopefully get more than 5HP atleast 10HP

yeah i'm pissed, crap!

 

guess what... the PP plates, TB, plenum and intake have shipped. I should have them monday or tuesday.

Saleen, please give me a call when you have a chance or shoot me a PM and we'll start the logistics planning. Perhaps we'll get you over that 300 mark yet.

On the longtubes, can you have the offending tube re-routed? An exhaust shop could probably extend and loop that bad boy into whatever kinda pretzel shape you need for pretty cheap as long as it's just one pipe.

 

how hard was it to put in the k-member? i'm about to put mine in this week

 

K-member isn't that hard but it needs to be squared properly. Other than that it's a pure bolt in job.

UPDATE:
Finally got the Torque arm put in and all the links adjusted properly. I'm still running without a sway bar in back and grip is absurd just like I was expecting. Now I've got the traction to support the tq of the 5.4. Ride cooled down a lot more than I thought it would. Now it's back from the edge of streetability to firm but compliant.

This is why I pick Maximum Motorsports for my suspension. It works, works right, works right the first time and delivers more than they promise. Expense is justified when you get more than you were promised.

Also have to plug my tuner Apex Motorsports for their great work and customer service. Any SF bay area peeps needing work could do a lot worse.

 

Sweet, i PM'd you.

The Kmember is pretty easy, a friend will make it even more easy. I dropped it and slapped the new one up by myself, so that tells you how hard it is. and you def. want to make sure it's squared up like R3DN3CK said. The tubular one is way light and makes it easy to install. a jack and jackstands will help too.

 

Okay i know this goes in the classified section but i'm selling the rods and pistons i bought from the group purchase awhile back.

The Pistons are Mahle forged flat top .030 over bore with rings and pins for $500 + $20 for shipping.

Then i have forged rods for the 5.4 and i'm selling those for $300 + $15 for shipping

So if any one is interested let me know the pistons will work with a 4.6 or 5.4.

I will post pics tonight so you can see what your getting.

Thanks,
Tyler

 

aw burn... why you selling? change directions?

 

note to all... I've posted gobs of pics in the pictures section. Dial up users are warned...there are a lot of them and they're high resolution.

criticisms are accepted... I can take a poke but keep it polite.

 

Just delaying things i still plan to do the 5.4 but i could use the money for family needs. It's not hard pressed though. In a couple of years i will start again.

 

hey I know how that is. I've stalled mine like 5 times to get the money back in the general fund. Family first, then hot rods.

 

i'm in the same boat. i do powdercoating on the sid eto support my 5.4 project...

 

Yeah there are some other things i need to do before i drop the motor in anyways so i will just work on that stuff before i start the motor. I badly need brakes and i want to upgrade the rear and fuel system.

 

I still haven't gotten my slugs. I called up TMD yesterday and they called Mahle and found out that they're still 2 weeks out. It would appear that .020 over is so unpopular compared to .030 over that they had to wait till a batch was in the manufacturing pipe. Such is life...

 

Damn there taking forever with those things. I think it's time for I'm just kidding but damn.

 

I knew when I picked the Mahle that they'd be a while in coming. They're usually back ordered. I just didn't think it'd be 2.5 months... I ordered 6/21 and they won't be here until like 9/5 or so. It's a good thing I'm not in a hurry.

 

Yeah i guess so.

 

i ordered probe .020" pistons and got them in about 2 weeks. are the probes as good as mahle?

 

at least as good. I liked the idea of the phosphate film on the Mahle's but it was a genuine toss up between Probe and Mahle. In the end the Mahle's came with rings so I didn't have to pick my rings and I went that way.

 

i wanted the mahle's but i did get the ringswith my pistons also...

 

I think I may have found a free engine for my build just it has 200,000 miles on it. Is it worth it to rebuild it and how much would it cost to do so? Also, what would be involved?

 

sure it's worth it. With 200K on the ticker you'll have to have it bored over at least .010, possibly .020. After that, new rods, bearings, pistons, fasteners and assembly.

I'd figure:
forged pistons: 500, cast pistons:300
forged rods: 320 (TMD price, buy twin turbo 330's (no stock rods.. you're gunna build it at all used forged rods)
main bearings: 80
rod bearings: 90
main bolts: 100
head bolts 150
machining: 250
assembly 5-800

You'll have to strip the motor, take it in for machining with the pistons and crank. They'll let you know what size bearings you'll need... probably .010 under. Then pay someone to assemble it and stick it in the car under your favorite set of heads. A set of 262 or hotter cams will really wake it up.

 

How much would the machine work cost? I also will probably save some cash and assemble the engine myself since I will probably have to do it later on anyway in college.

 

unless you're a professional engine builder by trade, I'd leave the assembly to the pro's. Modulars are tempestuous and sensistive to tolerance variances. Otherwise, see my quotes above. machining should be 250 bucks or so for a simple bore, hone, line hone and hot tank treatment.

 

Would hyperonic (cast) pistons be alright with a compression ratio around 10-10.5:1?

 

hypereutectic cast pistons are suitable to NA operation and won't take detonation from aggressive tunes or bad gas. The stock pistons are hypereutectic and while they can handle gobs of power they don't handle even a little detonation well.

Compression of 10.5:1 is totally reasonable on them other than that.

For those that don't know what the hell HE pistons are and how they're different from standard cast or forged, here it is quick and dirty:

Hypereutectic cast contains (normally) up to 17% or more silicon (think glass) in the alloy matrix. This lowers the expansion rate and envelope and allows tighter piston to wall tolerances for less startup piston slap. It makes a very tough but slightly brittle alloy. In most circumstances H.E. pistons are the option of choice for manufacturers for cost/performance.

Cast are just that. Cast. They are not suitable to use in high performance applications in most circumstances. These are not commonly used in modern cars.

Forged. Can start as a casting but not normally. Can also start as powdered metal but not usually done that way for pistons (common on steel rods). A block of alloy is heated and pounded by a die at 10's of 1000's of PSI so it takes the inverse shape of the die. This creates a super dense molecular structure where each grain is basically welded to those that surround it. These are very strong but they expand a bit more than HE cast and so clearances have to be a bit bigger, lending them to a little bit of noisy operation at startup/warmup. Forged pistons can take quite a bit of detonation but like everything they have their limits.

Hyperonic is a fictional kind of radiation mentioned on Star Trek TNG (Episode #50: The Ensigns of Command) in the episode where Lt. Cdr. Data has to try and convince a lost colony of humans to evacuate a planet before it is reclaimed by it's owners the Shelliac; a race of non-humanoid ultra aggressive xenophobes, who've promised to eradicate any undeveloped, unevolved, barely conscious pond-scum humanoids that remain on the planet.

 

Last question. I know that Ford redesigned the block for 02 so does that cause any compatability issues?

 

not a one. nay nay nay.

 

man you need a life!!!