I am f@#%@$% flustered. Been working on this thing, everything is gnoig well. then I hit the dumbest snags.

The end of the crank where the new pilot bearing needs to go has a race of some kind in it. I am assuming it is a race. Anyhow, I can not get the new pilot bearing in without it begin out. Anyone have any immediate suggestions???

 

New rod and new crank? Interesting.... Glad its getting fixed at mimimal cost to you, except of course for downtime.....

 

This is your 5.4 engine, correct ... ???

 

I was checking out the March 2009 issue of Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords magazaine (page #129) today and I saw that LUNATI was advertising a 5.4 "destroker" steel crankshaft for a little less than $1,000 bucks. Anyone know anything about that ??? It gives a destroked 4" stroke with a 2.657 main size.

Another question ... Are all 5.4 engines Windsor or Romeo engines, or are they like the 4.6 where there were some builds one year, then another build other years ... ???

THANKS !!!

 

Slidehammer?

 

Now would be the time to replace the rods with something stronger than the stockers (assuming you were still running a stock rotating assy). That way you can really take advantage of the breathing capability of the DOHC and spin it past 5500 without worries. If you are keeping it N/A there should be nothing wrong with keeping the stock pistons though.

 

I believe all 5.4 iron blocks are windsor blocks. Either the Windsor or Romeo heads will bolt up though. But typically they are all Windsor motors.

 

has anybody here had experience playing with cam timing. my question is more basic than you might think. I'm learning that 4-V's like a 108 centerline, (+-1) but that you must play with yours to learn exactly what your engine likes best. So how do we do that? Do we adjust timing and pay for a dyno run? or is there a cheaper way to quantify the results of cam tinkering?

 

Thanks for the information.

Does using Romeo heads on a Windsor block ever cause problems with the front engine cover and/or how the accessories mount up?

I appreciate the assistance.


(By the way ... you got a video of FRANKENSTANG doing a burnout ... ??? ... that would be cool)

 

now is the time for change... but not for that reason. I will be going for over 400rwhp from a n/a setup, when my original design was twins. however, all my rotating assembly is forged steel manley, and the valve train was entirly replaced with beefed up components too.

 

so r3d (or anybody else)... i've heard the following is a bad idea, but i dont know why...
buy some premade (like hooker ect.) 98 cobra long tubes and have a shop bend them to fit in my car. (my 98 GT, but of course the 4V heads all share the same exhaust port). Perhaps i can get them not heat coated until after they have been fitted in. I would think thats cheaper than having something completly custom?

 

the only difference/ issue is the bolt holes for the front cover. the romeo uses 8mm and the windsor uses 10mm . Its really not a problem , just mix and match the bolts. That should be the only problem, I'm even using the crank and cam sensor from the 5.4.

 

you can figure that retarding the cam 2-4 degrees will push your peak tq RPM higher up the band. Advancing the cam will drop your RPM of peak tq. In general you might benefit from a small retarding of the cams but you have to consider that there are 2 cams on each side of a 4v and timing all 4 can take some significant effort. When you shift your peak tq to a higher rpm you also shift your peak hp to a higher rpm. There is only 1 way to tell but I'll try and do some sims for you if you can get me exact cam specs including the installed intake centerline

it's not a bad idea...it's a disturbingly expensive one though. I spent 5K so far.

ditto that... 4.6 cam and crank sensors and trigger wheels here too. Love that modularity of parts.

 

Thanks Morgan ... I appreciate it.

 

There is no cheaper way.

 

Runner coss section determines where peak torque occurs.

4vs like the intake LCs to be advanced from the stock 114 LC and this has been proven over and over again. Retarding the intake cams will make it's hp curve look like that of a 2 stroke...not what is needed for the street. So, in general you do not want to retard the cams, ever.

 

I need help guys!!!

I can not get this thing setup right.

Timing help!
I can not get the passenger side cam gear to line up with any marks on the chains.


I need some help...

just did the 4.6 to 5.4 swap. Hung up on timing

 

there arent copper coated links on the chains to match up?

 

on one there is, on the other there arent. but the links are not matchint the marks on the cam gears on one side like they should, no matter how I turn the cam

 

Cam timing

It's pretty much the same on a 5.4 But I seem to remember the passenger side went on first but I could be wrong.

 

... soon.

 

I have been usung that site, I still can not get the passenger side cam gear to line up with the marks on the chain. I need some help?

Anyone available in the Houston area?

 

srwhouston@yahoo.com

832-331-3165

Steve

 

think I got it, assembly continuing

 

That could make for an intriguing combo as we are actually fighting so much stroke trying to get these motors to turn any kind of rpm, but thats getting to be a pretty expensive shortblock and if going high dollar I'd much rather have a big bore 4.6 with an aluminum block....

 

well, working today at the world of wheels. after that i am on a week long vacation to spend on my car. so for now here is a tease...




finally have a painted hood to hide what lies under it......

 

alright guys... I'm out.

Selling the car, done with mustangs. Personal reasons.

Tommy, please take care of the thread.

 

 

Your wife found out how much you spent on headers?




j/k man....trying to lighten ya up, hopefully its something that will pass when you have time to think it over.