IAC
#1
IAC
so some of you may remember i was having an issue where my car once up to operating temp while driving if i were coming to a stop and took my car out of gear prob 1 out of 3 times the rpm's would shoot up to 2-2500 rpm and stick their. well first i tried checking the throttle cable to see if it was sticking, well it wasnt, heck one time it acted up and i popped the hood checked to make sure on the throttle body that the cable returned all the way and it had returned itself. So my next theory was the IAC, so i bought a new IAC right from ford and installed that today....and IT DIDDNT FIX IT! im pissed. i doubt its the TPS as everyone says their rarely an issue. so these are my next thoughts
vaccumn leak?
Fuel filter? (doubt it)
need to get it on a computer to figure it out?
o and btw my car used to do this once in a great while. then about a month ago i installed an o/r h pipe and mil eliminators and it seems to have gotten much worse since then
vaccumn leak?
Fuel filter? (doubt it)
need to get it on a computer to figure it out?
o and btw my car used to do this once in a great while. then about a month ago i installed an o/r h pipe and mil eliminators and it seems to have gotten much worse since then
#7
Just be careful when cleaning the MAF...use a cue tip and don't brake the wires.
IAC is a logical culprit (which you checked) and so is the Throttle Body. Do you have an after-market TB? If the TB is sticking open, the rpms will stick high too. Air is air, and it must be comming in from somewhere to get the high rpms.
IAC is a logical culprit (which you checked) and so is the Throttle Body. Do you have an after-market TB? If the TB is sticking open, the rpms will stick high too. Air is air, and it must be comming in from somewhere to get the high rpms.
#9
alright ill try the maf, i dont have an aftermarket throttle body, only mods on my car are o/r h pipe with mils and slp LM2's.
also when my car does this i just shut it off and restart it at the next stop light and then a couple minutes later it will do it again. It seems like shutting it off and restarting it "resets" whatever is the problem.
also when my car does this i just shut it off and restart it at the next stop light and then a couple minutes later it will do it again. It seems like shutting it off and restarting it "resets" whatever is the problem.
#10
so how do you take those screws out, i have the right size torx set to get those out but those are definitely tamper proof lol..how do you get the torx in with that middle piece thats on the tamper proof screws in the way?
#12
yea i found out about that tamper proof bit like 20 min after i posted that. I replaced the IAC with motorcraft replacement part not a aftermarket autozone part or anything. do you still think its the problem. maybe its a bad part? i doubt it but i really dont know
#14
Since the throttle position sensor was brought up will that cause me tach to sit on the peg when I'm let it idle for awhile but if I touch the gas it jumps back to where it is. Also when I get to about 6300 RPMs it sticks so I have to shift early so I don't know how far it sticks because I don't wanna risk it overrevving
#16
thats what i would think if this were any other car but randy the guy on here that does ford parts always says that the TPS on 94+ cars are almost a completely trouble free part, so that makes me think it isnt the tps, if i were to replace the tps would an autozone part be okay or should i stick with the more expensive motorcraft/ford stuff.
#20
thats what i would think if this were any other car but randy the guy on here that does ford parts always says that the TPS on 94+ cars are""""almost"""""a completely trouble free part, so that makes me think it isnt the tps, if i were to replace the tps would an autozone part be okay or should i stick with the more expensive motorcraft/ford stuff.
Yes, be sure there are no vacumes and all the other info you have gotten. Then replace the tps.
It will be easier if you took the throttle body off, but in your situation, I would take it to a machanic.
Take a small torch and heat where the tps screws would be in the aluminum as these screws are "thread locked"(meaning a glue type substance that will release with a little heat)
Replace with thread locker when you install the new tps.
I can't see were the o/r pipe or mils would cause this. Maybe the mils are a defective product?
I hope you figure this out.
Last edited by 96blackgt54; 04-20-2008 at 12:27 PM.
#21
I hate to say this, but any time I see Randy post, it's to create business for himself. Not saying he does not know anything and I'm sure he has seen and heard of many situations of diagnosis.
Yes, be sure there are no vacumes and all the other info you have gotten. Then replace the tps.
It will be easier if you took the throttle body off, but in your situation, I would take it to a machanic.
Take a small torch and heat where the tps screws would be in the aluminum as these screws are "thread locked"(meaning a glue type substance that will release with a little heat)
Replace with thread locker when you install the new tps.
I can't see were the o/r pipe or mils would cause this. Maybe the mils are a defective product?
I hope you figure this out.
Yes, be sure there are no vacumes and all the other info you have gotten. Then replace the tps.
It will be easier if you took the throttle body off, but in your situation, I would take it to a machanic.
Take a small torch and heat where the tps screws would be in the aluminum as these screws are "thread locked"(meaning a glue type substance that will release with a little heat)
Replace with thread locker when you install the new tps.
I can't see were the o/r pipe or mils would cause this. Maybe the mils are a defective product?
I hope you figure this out.
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