IAC
 

so some of you may remember i was having an issue where my car once up to operating temp while driving if i were coming to a stop and took my car out of gear prob 1 out of 3 times the rpm's would shoot up to 2-2500 rpm and stick their. well first i tried checking the throttle cable to see if it was sticking, well it wasnt, heck one time it acted up and i popped the hood checked to make sure on the throttle body that the cable returned all the way and it had returned itself. So my next theory was the IAC, so i bought a new IAC right from ford and installed that today....and IT DIDDNT FIX IT! im pissed. i doubt its the TPS as everyone says their rarely an issue. so these are my next thoughts

vaccumn leak?
Fuel filter? (doubt it)
need to get it on a computer to figure it out?

o and btw my car used to do this once in a great while. then about a month ago i installed an o/r h pipe and mil eliminators and it seems to have gotten much worse since then

Hmmm.....

Try cleaning your MAF? :dunno:

any certain way to clean the MAF, i know its expensive and i dont want to ruin it. maybe just spray it down with carb cleaner and let it dry?

Yeah I think so but these other guys can tell ya better than me though.

DON'T SPRAY IT W/ CARB CLEANER. Carb cleaner leaves a residue behind, making it not read right. Instead, pull out the actual sensor from the housing and clean it w/ rubbing alcohol.

i diddnt even know you could pull the sensor out i thought the maf was one piece, diddnt know it could be taken apart, wanna clarify how to do that

Just be careful when cleaning the MAF...use a cue tip and don't brake the wires.

IAC is a logical culprit (which you checked) and so is the Throttle Body. Do you have an after-market TB? If the TB is sticking open, the rpms will stick high too. Air is air, and it must be comming in from somewhere to get the high rpms.

On the sensor itself, where the harness hooks into it, you will see 2 tamper-proof torx screws. Remove those two and gently pull the sensor out.

alright ill try the maf, i dont have an aftermarket throttle body, only mods on my car are o/r h pipe with mils and slp LM2's.
also when my car does this i just shut it off and restart it at the next stop light and then a couple minutes later it will do it again. It seems like shutting it off and restarting it "resets" whatever is the problem.

so how do you take those screws out, i have the right size torx set to get those out but those are definitely tamper proof lol..how do you get the torx in with that middle piece thats on the tamper proof screws in the way?

Its a T-8 tamper proof bit. Q-Tip and rubbing alcohol to clean it. I still think you have a IAC problem. Good Luck

yea i found out about that tamper proof bit like 20 min after i posted that. I replaced the IAC with motorcraft replacement part not a aftermarket autozone part or anything. do you still think its the problem. maybe its a bad part? i doubt it but i really dont know

OK... maybe I missed the post, but did you ever try replacing the tps?
Still sounds like a tps problem to me!

Since the throttle position sensor was brought up will that cause me tach to sit on the peg when I'm let it idle for awhile but if I touch the gas it jumps back to where it is. Also when I get to about 6300 RPMs it sticks so I have to shift early so I don't know how far it sticks because I don't wanna risk it overrevving

Double Post

thats what i would think if this were any other car but randy the guy on here that does ford parts always says that the TPS on 94+ cars are almost a completely trouble free part, so that makes me think it isnt the tps, if i were to replace the tps would an autozone part be okay or should i stick with the more expensive motorcraft/ford stuff.

Triple Post

Dude, stop copy and pasting your post over and over again, someone will answer.

Sorry didn't see the multiple post my comp kept giving me a error

I hate to say this, but any time I see Randy post, it's to create business for himself. Not saying he does not know anything and I'm sure he has seen and heard of many situations of diagnosis.

Yes, be sure there are no vacumes and all the other info you have gotten. Then replace the tps.

It will be easier if you took the throttle body off, but in your situation, I would take it to a machanic.
Take a small torch and heat where the tps screws would be in the aluminum as these screws are "thread locked"(meaning a glue type substance that will release with a little heat)
Replace with thread locker when you install the new tps.

I can't see were the o/r pipe or mils would cause this. Maybe the mils are a defective product?
I hope you figure this out.

i replaced the tps on my old 96 gt and had no problem just unscrewing it without any heat, does it make a difference if i use heat or not?, probably should disconnect the battery b4 doing this at all also.