Hey Everyone!

Since I had such great luck and help with advice on my new motor from here, I thought I would ask the age old question of what is the next step of mods to go after. Background on the motor is 11:8-1 Compression, PI heads (not polished or ported, but new), Forged crank, Forged Flat tops, PI intake, CAI (upr), 87mm MAF (sorry but was very first upgrade 4 years ago, I was dumb), BBK X-pipe with cats (as a popo have to stay legal), Flowmaster 3 chamber cat back system, FRPP cermaic coated shorties, 70mm FRPP throttle body, kirban regulator, underdrive pulleys, steeda timing adjuster, recently SCT X2 tuned and dynometered.

My next immediate mod is 3.73 gearing since I drive a ton on the freeway and city. So gears are covered. This is an automatic equiped stang. I was told by the shop which did my tuning gears and a 2800 stall for the trans was the next things they would recommend. Any ideas what should be next? I am open to suggestions.

I am also thinking Typhoon Intake (within current budget), Professional Products Plenum and beefing up the fuel pump (although not sure what to go up to since I am not sure what stock is), and fuel rails. I know the last two items don't make power, but support moer down the road.

Any advice would be welcome once again. Thanks a million for the help you have given already. I appreciate it.

 

you pretty much have everything coverd maybe a small 50 75 shot or somthing

 

Well is this going to be an NA or power adder car? I say ported heads, cams, stall (LAST MOD!), tranny cooler, and J Mod (just saw your other thread about that). However, talk to Darrin at www.bc-automotive.com about the stall. I guarantee he will know more about that stuff then your shop. After that get into suspension.

Just because you dont have a lot of cash right now doesnt mean you should buy cheap parts. Save up and buy later on, its not a race. Youll be happier in the end.

 

Right now with such high compression I am assuming turbo's and superchargers are out correct? The tranny cooler is done and was done when the trans was rebuilt. So short answer let's say NA made car.

 

Ported heads and cams. Places for those are VT Engines, Fox Lake, or Steen Racing. Stall from Darrin or Circle D. Get the heads/ cams first then get the car dyno tuned so you can get the converter built to your application even better. Then get your tuner to make some small adjustments to the auto. As in increasing the line pressure A LITTLE, commanding the converter to be locked up in 2nd and 3rd.

Wait on the intake manifold and fuel stuff. All the fuel related things you mentioned arent necessary except larger injectors after heads and cams. Then start focusing on traction/ suspension. If you want a plenum then try to find a used Dragon.

I wont try to convince you to get 4.10's, but I HIGHLY recommend them. Hell if I was staying NA Id get 4.30's.

 

cobra brakes man. you've got the go, get the whoa.

After that:
cams
suspension (Maximum Motorsports, pick a grip box)
heavy duty (eaton, detroit e-z locker, torsen, auburn) 31 spline diff & axles
rear wheel spacers
cage
seats
PCV oil air separator

 

Thanks. Sounds like a reasonable course of action as this motor is only 1300 miles into the break in of it. Thanks again.

 

I was looking at the non vented cobra kits that are out there. Do I do just the front and leave the stock rear, but upgrade the pads. What do you suggest on that?

 

before I forget, is there a cam which can be used on the stock built PI heads I have on the car now which would be worth the time and cost?

 

Yes, upgrade the front leave the rear. Id just use stock pads.

Dont get me wrong, MM makes great suspension stuff. However, its more geared towards autocross. There are a lot of things in those grip boxes that arent necessary on a drag car. If you want more drag racing oriented stuff then look at PA Racing, Baselinesuspensions, Strange, QA-1, and Wolfe Race Craft.
How fast do you plan on going? I believe the rules are under a 11.49 or something you need a 6 point roll bar. A cage is 10 or more points.

Totally stock heads, VT stage 1 cams or Comp equivalent which is 262 or something. More then that and youll need to upgrade your valve springs.

 

Drags would be nice, but to be honest I am just building this for my own enjoyment and the occassional road course duty if so inclined. I am going more in a total performance sleeper make up for it. I have only upgraded the shocks at the moment and motor mounts. The shocks are KYB with quads (kyb), and Prothane motor mounts. The strut tower bar is the stock piece. I have thought of a g-trac brace for the trunk towers, but haven't gone beyond the thought process on it. I honestly see a ton of parts and not sure what I really need.

 

It sounds to me like you just want a fun street car that has power. No serious racing whether it be drag or autocross.

Lower the car, invest in some subframes (MM's). Possibly forget about ported heads and just go with the VT stage 1's and a good stall converter from Darrin. That is a mid- high 12 second car.

 

That works for me. This is why I ask those out there who know. I am not worried about serious racing at the moment. You rock. Thanks for the help. (AGAIN). I really appreciate it.

 

Dont all the automatic guys recommend 4.10's?

 

No problem man.

Autos love 4.10's and 4.30's.

 

agree with 03gt on the brakes. Use EBC green stuff pads in back on the stock rotors and calipers. Use OEM equivalent pads in front (yes they're dusty but they're just right performance wise). That'll keep the brake system nice and balanced as well as it can be. Stick with plain faced rotors. Drilled are t3h suckz0rz and slotted just aren't needed. Modern pads DO NOT OUTGASS.

Cams, VT stage 1 should be great for you without getting too aggressive and losing low end grunt.

If you like hot street driving and occasional road course duty, then I'd look into the MM Road and Track box. It's about 2200 and change and comes with everything you'll need. I for one don't like KYB dampers. I've never gotten good longevity with them under any kind of hard use.

If you want a smaller list then here you go:
Bilstein or Tokico Illumina shocks and struts
MM adjustable spring perch rear lower control arms (remove the quad shocks with this) [poly bushed in front, spherical in back]
MM panhard bar
MM full length subframe connectors
H&R Super sport springs (from MM)
MM 4pt K-member brace
MM caster camber plates
Eibach F&R sway bars
Energy Suspension sway bar endlinks

Normally for someone into road coursing I'd suggest the Max Grip box but that's a serious change in how the car handles. If you're ready for race ready suspension, then think about the Max Grip box. If you just want much improved handling that's perfect for mixed duty cars, the Road and Track Box is the best option IMHO.