Best Oil
#6
10-31-2006 | 05:23 PM
Beantown Stang
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,375
From: Boston, MA
not true, mines got 30k miles and ive always used fully synthetic.. exspensive but good, Mobil 1 5w 20 FTW!! but once you go synthetic theres no going back to regular oil remeber!
#8
10-31-2006 | 05:32 PM
Wowbagger hates me too!
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 9,865
From: Magrathea/California
Fact: Synthetic is good lubricant. As good or a little better than conventional.
Fact: Synthetic is expensive.
Fact: You don't need it but there's no bad time to start using it.
Fact: There's no problem mixing synthetic with conventional or vice versa.
Repair is good for cars with leaks and a rebuild is good for cars with high miles. Heavier viscosity oils are typically a little better in really high mileage cars as the clearances have grown a bit by then and the thicker oil will help to keep oil pressures up and films adhering. Use the thinnest oil your car was designed to operate on given your use case. You'll make more power and you won't run the pressure through the roof.
If you really want to spend 6 bucks a quart (36 bucks a change for V8 cars) then use any of the high quality oils from:
Royal Purple
RedLine
Amsoil
Mobil 1
Castrol Syntec
Quaker State Full Synthetic
etc...
#11
11-01-2006 | 07:03 AM
BOLO 4 ME
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,576
From: Danbury, CT
lol, I was getting an oil change done for my mom at a local shop and inquired how much it would be to change the oil in MY car with full synthetic... he quoted me 75 dollars! and that was for only 5 quarts... We take 6 ff I am not mistaken... hahaha, I laughed and took my moms car and went home and did my own oil change for ~30 (mobil 1 full syn 5w20)
#13
11-07-2006 | 02:30 PM
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1
The best oil, is usually the cleanest, as clean mineral based oil is better than dirty synthetic. Having said that, the cleaner you can keep you oil, the better it is for your engine or whatever your lubricating.
Lots of factors are at play with oil, like drive cycle, load, temps, turbo, etc. The factor that is overlooked is filtration. If you can improve the filter, the oil can do the best job for you.
I have used magnetic filters to improve filtration. How you go about it differs, but there are a few out there that will do the trick. Ford offers a pretty good in-line filter. It is labeled for transmission, but it works well in any application with a cooler line. XC3Z-7B155-BA is the part number. You might also check Emerging Enterprises or Boss Products for what they have to offer.
As a side benefit, if you filter your oil better, you can use it longer. Extending the drain interval will save you a few bucks each year.
Something to think about.
I hope this helps.
Lots of factors are at play with oil, like drive cycle, load, temps, turbo, etc. The factor that is overlooked is filtration. If you can improve the filter, the oil can do the best job for you.
I have used magnetic filters to improve filtration. How you go about it differs, but there are a few out there that will do the trick. Ford offers a pretty good in-line filter. It is labeled for transmission, but it works well in any application with a cooler line. XC3Z-7B155-BA is the part number. You might also check Emerging Enterprises or Boss Products for what they have to offer.
As a side benefit, if you filter your oil better, you can use it longer. Extending the drain interval will save you a few bucks each year.
Something to think about.
I hope this helps.
#15
11-07-2006 | 03:26 PM
Guest
Posts: n/a
I've always used Amsoil 10w30 Full Synthetic. And apparently have had good results.
Just got my oil analysis back, and had very little metal/ iron deposit count. Sitting @ 142,xxx Miles. Amsoil expects no less than another 50,000Mi from the engine.
So, my personal preference.. Obviously Amsoil. If you look at their website, they (at one time) had a story up about a lady that used nothing but amsoil synthetic in her jeep and had about 500,xxx Mi and still running well.
Just got my oil analysis back, and had very little metal/ iron deposit count. Sitting @ 142,xxx Miles. Amsoil expects no less than another 50,000Mi from the engine.
So, my personal preference.. Obviously Amsoil. If you look at their website, they (at one time) had a story up about a lady that used nothing but amsoil synthetic in her jeep and had about 500,xxx Mi and still running well.
#16
11-07-2006 | 03:30 PM
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 38
From: Herrin IL.
The best oil, is usually the cleanest, as clean mineral based oil is better than dirty synthetic. Having said that, the cleaner you can keep you oil, the better it is for your engine or whatever your lubricating.
Lots of factors are at play with oil, like drive cycle, load, temps, turbo, etc. The factor that is overlooked is filtration. If you can improve the filter, the oil can do the best job for you.
I have used magnetic filters to improve filtration. How you go about it differs, but there are a few out there that will do the trick. Ford offers a pretty good in-line filter. It is labeled for transmission, but it works well in any application with a cooler line. XC3Z-7B155-BA is the part number. You might also check Emerging Enterprises or Boss Products for what they have to offer.
As a side benefit, if you filter your oil better, you can use it longer. Extending the drain interval will save you a few bucks each year.
Something to think about.
I hope this helps.
Lots of factors are at play with oil, like drive cycle, load, temps, turbo, etc. The factor that is overlooked is filtration. If you can improve the filter, the oil can do the best job for you.
I have used magnetic filters to improve filtration. How you go about it differs, but there are a few out there that will do the trick. Ford offers a pretty good in-line filter. It is labeled for transmission, but it works well in any application with a cooler line. XC3Z-7B155-BA is the part number. You might also check Emerging Enterprises or Boss Products for what they have to offer.
As a side benefit, if you filter your oil better, you can use it longer. Extending the drain interval will save you a few bucks each year.
Something to think about.
I hope this helps.
#17
11-07-2006 | 05:18 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 187
I think you should probably go full synthetic or full standard. Mixing isn't that bad but different oils wind up with different viscosities so I would be cautious about doing half and half. R3dn3ck, what is your take on that?
Filters are only like 7 or 8 bucks (I've even seen them down to 4 or 5 from different stores) depending on who you go with. Fram makes a good easy grip one which I am happy with.
Filters are only like 7 or 8 bucks (I've even seen them down to 4 or 5 from different stores) depending on who you go with. Fram makes a good easy grip one which I am happy with.
#19
11-07-2006 | 05:31 PM
Wowbagger hates me too!
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 9,865
From: Magrathea/California
I hate fram filters. There's nothing quite as skimpily made.
Synthetic blends are good. They meet or exceed specs and I've always gotten good results from them (as good as conventional oil anyway).
Mixing oils outright like 3qts of this conventional and 3qts of some synthetic is just rice. It's stupid and wasteful of synthetic oil. Factory synthetic blends have guys with phd's figuring out the recipe for. Joe Sixpack mixing syntec and pennzoil in his driveway doesn't quite measure up.
Synthetic blends are good. They meet or exceed specs and I've always gotten good results from them (as good as conventional oil anyway).
Mixing oils outright like 3qts of this conventional and 3qts of some synthetic is just rice. It's stupid and wasteful of synthetic oil. Factory synthetic blends have guys with phd's figuring out the recipe for. Joe Sixpack mixing syntec and pennzoil in his driveway doesn't quite measure up.
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