Do a brake flush and add dot 4. I have dot 4 in mine...

 

youll be good with that. hell i only boiled my stock brakes once and that was at a road course flying into a 110+ degree turn from a straightaway and starting to stop at sign number 3 instead of 5. yeah that was scary...
lol

 

Check out Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid. It's higher performing by a good margin than the bimmer juice and only 10-16 bucks a quart. Plus, it's a cool looking blue color teehee.

 

yep. I got my last quart at my local Monument Auto Parts for 12 bucks.

hang on and I'll get a link to some so you'll know what to look for:

Here... amazon has it (how bizarre... thought they did books) for 9 bucks.. you can't even beat that cost for performance.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...nce&n=15684181

Everyone that wants a little quick knowledge on the subject should read this:
http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:0...s&ct=clnk&cd=3

And lastly, for those too lazy (like myself) to follow a link to information, here's a comparo of popular brake fluids:


Fluid DRY WET Cost per quart Comments:
Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446 311 $9.00 Low boiling points but a solid performer for street duty.
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550 290 $10.00 Wicks water too quick. Wet boil point is way low.
ATE Super Blue Racing 536 392 $10.00 high dry boil, really high wet boil for the money.
ATE TYP 200 536 392 $10.00 same as blue but harder to find.
Motul Racing 600 585 421 $15.00 good stuff, kinda pricey but not bad.
Castrol SRF 590 518 $63-78 exotic stuff, wicked expensive, track only kind of thing unless you're rich.
Performance Friction 550 284 $7.00 hard to find, low wet boil, great price.

The wet boiling point is all that matters in real life. Dry means dry fluid with no water in it but water wicking happens constantly so it's best to get a high wet boil fluid with a high dry boil point as a kicker.

 

You can mix dot 3 and 4, and it wont harm anything. But dot 5 cannot be mixed with anything because its silicone based.