get in the 13s
#1
get in the 13s
I have a 96 mustang gt. I want to know what i need to get in the 13s.The reason is because my brother bought a 06 chager with the hemi and I beat him up to about 65 than he smoked me. I was thinking zex 100 shot,and a set of nitto555r's,but then I couldnt use the superchip.And my car would be slower when Iam not using it. Is nitrous a good idea I have 87K on the car. My best time was only a 9.57 in the 1/8 mile with street tires. I think I need new wires to they like stock. My mods are 70 mm pleumn,tb,cai,steeda udps,4:10's,and superchip programmer,mac catted h pipe,and magnaflow catback.
#2
Since you already have a bunch of mods...
First things first:
Learn to drive.
No disrespect, but learning the correct way to drive(drag racing on the quarter mile) can get up to a few tenths off your time. (Depending on your current skill level)
Other than that, if you're going to go with Nitrous you'll need a retune anyway and maybe a switch chip of some sort...
I know where you can get a PI SWAP for real cheap. REAL CHEAP.
First things first:
Learn to drive.
No disrespect, but learning the correct way to drive(drag racing on the quarter mile) can get up to a few tenths off your time. (Depending on your current skill level)
Other than that, if you're going to go with Nitrous you'll need a retune anyway and maybe a switch chip of some sort...
I know where you can get a PI SWAP for real cheap. REAL CHEAP.
#4
A switch chip is a mutlti tune switch that allows you to switch back and forth between your tunes. Of course, you have to have a chip capable of storing multiple tunes. for example an economy tune(for mileage), a performance tune(for N/A 91-93 octane), a nitrous tune( for when you're spraying) and/or a low octane tune( in case you're strapped).
Oh yeah I meant a PI swap for REAL Cheap.
#6
Short of that, a midpipe or Long tubes and a midpipe would get you some pretty good results I'd say 10rwhp for the midpipe or 20-25rwhp for the LT/midpipe combo.
Keep in mind that you'll have a lot more avg horsepower with either of those mods than just the peak HP...
If you were to swap just the intake you'd have to get adapters for it and if you're going to do that you might as well save some more and go the whole way..
#8
No, for the PI swap, you need assembled PI heads, intake manifold, and other little things like gaskets. However, you will need a dyno tuno afterwards but the power will be worth it. Also, if you have the cash, you should also consider SVO heads.
#9
you can always attack the problem in the suspension as well. A properly setup street/strip suspension can easily cut tenths off your time. I'd look into some Maximum Motorsports RLCA'a with adjustable spring perches, subframe connectors, tokico illumina rear shocks would be a good start.
Also, pull your front swaybar off or loosen the hell out of it before you race. That'll help your launch. Pull the spare and jack, the rear seats and the passenger seat too. That weight reduction is all easily reversable and it'll cut .1+ off your time.
EDIT: Do the PI swap... it's so worth it.
Also, pull your front swaybar off or loosen the hell out of it before you race. That'll help your launch. Pull the spare and jack, the rear seats and the passenger seat too. That weight reduction is all easily reversable and it'll cut .1+ off your time.
EDIT: Do the PI swap... it's so worth it.