anybody out there have a smog pump delete kit?? I need to know what is needed to remove the lines that run into the back of the heads...or if you can even just block them off with something?? :dontknow:

 

i just cut and bent the lines at the very back..not very preofessional but it works..

 

cool . what all do you have to do with the egr stuff...i guess what im asking is what can i get rid of other than the whole pump?? is it possible to cut the lines off and weld that little block shut, or will this damage the heads??

nice car!!

 

In my buddeys we just took it al out nad added aftermarket long tubes at the same time.

 

u can unbolt the emissions pump lines from the back of the heads, but on mine it was a PITA, so i didn't... all i did was unbolt everything from the pump, including the pump, and used a shorter belt.. normally u would still have your egr tube but my broke, so i just put a bolt in place of the open port on the exhaust header...

 

On my old 95 I just ran a short belt bypassing smog pump w/no issues. Now, with my new/used 95 can i remove all the smog stuff that is next to the pass. side header and delete smog pump w/out getting the dreaded idiot light on the dash. Wanted to remove all this junk but didnt know if the car would like it. Thnxxxx.

 

wheni did an intake swap on my car i broke the egr tube.. i continued with it and started the car up and it ran fine with no dash light.. one day i tried hookin the tube back up and the ses light came on... so i took the tube off and no light since... weird...and i thought it was supposed to be there.. guess not..

 

The tube is no problem,,I've deleted both on both of my cars. I just put a couple pennies in the caps along w/some high temp silicone and screw em back on. Im talking bout removing all the smog crap that runs between the pump and back of the heads. Can you remove this stuff???

 

yes.. i did.. there is nothing left on my car that has to do with smog pump stuff... alll gone.. even the pump it self..(weight savings lol) u can take those tubes out as well u just have to cap off the holes on the h pipe.. i just unplugged teh vaccum lines that run to it.. no problems..

 

copy that. thank u. I know what's gonna be missing when I put the long tubes on/haaaaa.

 

I dont see how in the heck you remove the tubing going to heads. Not much room between the firewall and motor. Hmmmmm. I'll worry about it later. Im fighting w/a-pillar water temp gauge issues right now. How in the hell does that sensor fit between the body of the car and dashboard. And just where in the hell does it go through in the firewall. That is the 64K dollar question.

 

ok for one i don't know what they use to hold those bolts in to the back of the heads for those tubes but i couldn't get em off either.. so i'll just wait till i get new alum. heads...

as far as the temp gauge sensor goes, i have an autometer one.... the sensor itself just replaces the fac. water temp sensor... it is located right in front on the lower intake.. sure the stock gauge won't work in your cluster but who cares u got an autometer now!!!! lol

 

I know where it goes,,i just need to know how to get it between the body and dash when I start routing it,,as well as where I put it through in the firewall.

 

oh i drilled a small hole right below the master cylinder and put a rubber grommet there and rant he wires from the intake to the back of the motor, along the firewall to the hole, through the hole up the side of the dash, (if u look and feel around there is enough room to fish some wires along side of teh dash up to the pillar) to the point were i would mount the gauge...

 

Kool,,so I guess you made the whole big enough for the actual sensor to fit through the firewall. Let me get this straight, you have the water temp gauge and the bendable wire came attached to the gauge correct? I've looked and I dont think it comes apart from the gauge and is permanently connected to the gauge itself. Reason Im asking is because once I figure out the wiring I have to route the probe and little nut between the dash and body of the car. It seems there isnt enough room to do this. Once I get it routed between the body and dash I'll be able to get it through the firewall somehow. Thanks for the help.

 

ok for one if it is an autometer as mine was, the wire can be dettached.. i don't think i have ever seen what u are talking about.. wire permanenlty attched to sensor or even the gauge??? wow that would suck.. nothing should relly have wires attached permanently to it....