Caster Camber Plates.
#2
Ohh man, you need to do some reading first. The c/c plates just allow the top of your strut to have more range of movement, allowing lowered cars to gain a better alignment. I will come back and explain a more after I relax a little, unless someone else explains it all, I just got off work. In the mean time, find some tech articles about plates.
#3
yeah it allows that **** to move around so you can correct yer camber and caster yo dats phat.
Camber angle. WHen looking directly at the wheel it should normally point straight up right. if it tilts in or out, that is what they are referring to as the camber angle.
if yer doing road course stuff you want a slight negative camber, meaning the top of the wheels slightly tilt in towards the car.
for drag racing you want the camber angle at 0, meaning the tire stangs perfectly straight.
caster angle is the angle the tire takes when turning. Think about earth and its rotation, it is not rotating perfectly on axis, the earth rotates slightly off axis giving it a slightly diagnolatized angle. Diagnolized ... i think i just inventer a word there. Having the angle too sharp makes steering a pain in the ***, it gets heavy and not as responsive.
Anyways, it has to do with the self centering ability of the wheels and steering comfort.
The plates just give you the ability to do this by setting an angle to the strut.
I really dont know how you need to have it setup though. The drop i put on my car was pretty light,. so .... i never needed em...
=== ANyone if im wrong on this please correct me.
Camber angle. WHen looking directly at the wheel it should normally point straight up right. if it tilts in or out, that is what they are referring to as the camber angle.
if yer doing road course stuff you want a slight negative camber, meaning the top of the wheels slightly tilt in towards the car.
for drag racing you want the camber angle at 0, meaning the tire stangs perfectly straight.
caster angle is the angle the tire takes when turning. Think about earth and its rotation, it is not rotating perfectly on axis, the earth rotates slightly off axis giving it a slightly diagnolatized angle. Diagnolized ... i think i just inventer a word there. Having the angle too sharp makes steering a pain in the ***, it gets heavy and not as responsive.
Anyways, it has to do with the self centering ability of the wheels and steering comfort.
The plates just give you the ability to do this by setting an angle to the strut.
I really dont know how you need to have it setup though. The drop i put on my car was pretty light,. so .... i never needed em...
=== ANyone if im wrong on this please correct me.
#4
Sounds good so far. I don't really know what you mean by set them up but if you mean, set the caster and camber as close to stock as possible after installing them untill you can get it to a shop, then what you can do is measure from the side of the car, and from the back of the engine bay to the top of the strut before you disassemble anything and then after you have the C/c plates on set the top of the strut to thoes measurment you made before.
Instalation is pretty easy. 3-bolt designs should be a snap and the better 4-bolt designs like Maximum Motorsports are only a hair harder becuase you have to drill that hole, which sounds intimidating but is seriously super easy. There is a bottom plate that goes below the strut tower, the bolts come and the top plate mounts on on top of that and it has the room for the movement. The strut rod goes through the top plate and you screw it down to that. Nuts hold it all together, 8 nuts for a 4-bolt design. It's pretty simple to figure out once you have everyhing set out infront of you.
Maximum Motorsports has thier full install guides as Adobe readers on thier website, It would help to read them. They explain alot.
Instalation is pretty easy. 3-bolt designs should be a snap and the better 4-bolt designs like Maximum Motorsports are only a hair harder becuase you have to drill that hole, which sounds intimidating but is seriously super easy. There is a bottom plate that goes below the strut tower, the bolts come and the top plate mounts on on top of that and it has the room for the movement. The strut rod goes through the top plate and you screw it down to that. Nuts hold it all together, 8 nuts for a 4-bolt design. It's pretty simple to figure out once you have everyhing set out infront of you.
Maximum Motorsports has thier full install guides as Adobe readers on thier website, It would help to read them. They explain alot.
#5
Yeah drilling that hole intimidated me before I done it. I thought the install was gonna be complicated. It was super easy though. MY only prob was the spacers. I tried to follow the instuctions but the **** JUST didnt look right. It looked like my strut rods would go right through my hood when I closed it. In the end... after trying **** this way and that way, I ended up just following the damned instructions like I was supposed to and tested it out with the hood and all and **** worked perfectly! Instructions FTW!
#6
alright thanks fella's. i'm gonna keep the stock C/C plates on and see if i can get by with them(see if the shop can adjust it good enough to be able to just keep them on). i have MM's C/C plates but mainly for an "insurance" incase the stock ones can't work.
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