Are you living with noisey Caster Camber plates?
#1
05-21-2005, 05:17 AM
Are you living with noisey Caster Camber plates?
Ok, I have noticed that a few people have been complaining about clanking C/C plates from QA1. If you are one of these people, or one of the knuckle heads that have the clanking but never really cared to complain about it, there is an easy and free fix.
The problem is a bad batch of bearings that QA1 used in the C/C plates for the top plates. The inferior bearings are two peace untis that, once shown next to the upgraded bearings, can easily be identified as "junk". Here are a few pics to get you started before we go into the fix.
The problem is a bad batch of bearings that QA1 used in the C/C plates for the top plates. The inferior bearings are two peace untis that, once shown next to the upgraded bearings, can easily be identified as "junk". Here are a few pics to get you started before we go into the fix.
#2
05-21-2005, 05:23 AM
Ok, now first you'll have to give QA1 a call or drop them an E-mail and let them know that you are having problems with clanking coming from the C/C's. QA1's web site
They were very nice to me and sent me the bearings free of charge with no hassle or excuse. I have heard from some other guys that they sometimes send the entire top plate with new bearing installed and all. If they do that for you, you won't need to read any further.
If not, it's no big deal the swap can be done by anyone with the right tools and a descent mind for machanics basics. The nexy post will have the entire proccess.
They were very nice to me and sent me the bearings free of charge with no hassle or excuse. I have heard from some other guys that they sometimes send the entire top plate with new bearing installed and all. If they do that for you, you won't need to read any further.
If not, it's no big deal the swap can be done by anyone with the right tools and a descent mind for machanics basics. The nexy post will have the entire proccess.
#3
05-21-2005, 05:48 AM
Tools needed:
A standard 3/8 or 1/2" socket set. A pair of snap ring pliars. Ball-pean hammer and a soft blow hammer (recommended but not needed). A 21-24mm socket (1/2 or 3/8 dosen't matter). A vice or something that will enable you to lift the top plate off of a work surface and still enable you to hammer out the bearing and lastly some pennetrating oil (you will need a open end or box wrench to remove the strut nut and a pry bar to keep the strut rod from turning but I am not 100% sure on the strut nut's size. I used an impact wrench for this part which makes it ten times easier, but it can be done with hand tools).
Step one:
Remove the top strut nut (hopefully you have an impact gun but if not keep reading). You'll need a box wrench and a pry bar for this. Spray the threads of the strut rod with oil and then place the box wrench on the nut. Use the pry bar to keep the strut rod from turning by placing it in the slot on top of the rod. It's a PITA but if you don't have impact, this is the only "right" way to do it. The wrong way to do it would be to put a set of vice grips on the strut rod (in the wheel well) and clamp it VERY tight. I do not recommend this because it could mar the strut rod which will in turn ruin the seals in the top of the strut. I have done it this way without causing damage though.
Step two:
Remove the top plate on the C/C plate. I think the nuts on mine where 16 mm but I could be wrong (this is why I said you need a "socket set"
). Once you have the top plate off, turn it over and remove the snap ring that retains the bearing. The bearing will not just fall out, it's tight. Position the top plate on the vice so that the jaws are closed enough to support the plate but open enough to allow the bearing to slip out of the bearing bore (the plate should be on the vice with the top facing you as if it would be on the car).
Now use the round nose of the ball-pean hammer to hammer out the old bearing. The pennetrating oil can make this a little easier. If it dosen't come out all the way, put a socket on it and hammer all the way out.
Step Three:
Turn the top plate over so that the bottom of the plate is facing upward. Clean the inside of the bearing bore and make sure there are no burs or metal flashings in the bore or in the snap ring groove. Spray a little oil in the bore then position the new bearing in the bore so that it's as level as possible. Now use the 21-24mm socket and the soft blow or ball-pean hammer to drive the new bearing all the way in. Use the socket that seems to fit the best so that it's edges are on the outer surface of the bearing but will still fit in the bore. I think I used a 24mm.
Once you hit bottom, the snap ring groove should be visable and right at the bottom of the bearings surafce. Snap the ring back in and reinstall the top plate.
Done, that's all it takes to get rid of that nasty clank. With an impact gun, it can be done in less than an hour. Without, give yourself a about two hours for stubborn strut nuts.
Later,
Bill
A standard 3/8 or 1/2" socket set. A pair of snap ring pliars. Ball-pean hammer and a soft blow hammer (recommended but not needed). A 21-24mm socket (1/2 or 3/8 dosen't matter). A vice or something that will enable you to lift the top plate off of a work surface and still enable you to hammer out the bearing and lastly some pennetrating oil (you will need a open end or box wrench to remove the strut nut and a pry bar to keep the strut rod from turning but I am not 100% sure on the strut nut's size. I used an impact wrench for this part which makes it ten times easier, but it can be done with hand tools).
Step one:
Remove the top strut nut (hopefully you have an impact gun but if not keep reading). You'll need a box wrench and a pry bar for this. Spray the threads of the strut rod with oil and then place the box wrench on the nut. Use the pry bar to keep the strut rod from turning by placing it in the slot on top of the rod. It's a PITA but if you don't have impact, this is the only "right" way to do it. The wrong way to do it would be to put a set of vice grips on the strut rod (in the wheel well) and clamp it VERY tight. I do not recommend this because it could mar the strut rod which will in turn ruin the seals in the top of the strut. I have done it this way without causing damage though.
Step two:
Remove the top plate on the C/C plate. I think the nuts on mine where 16 mm but I could be wrong (this is why I said you need a "socket set"
). Once you have the top plate off, turn it over and remove the snap ring that retains the bearing. The bearing will not just fall out, it's tight. Position the top plate on the vice so that the jaws are closed enough to support the plate but open enough to allow the bearing to slip out of the bearing bore (the plate should be on the vice with the top facing you as if it would be on the car).Now use the round nose of the ball-pean hammer to hammer out the old bearing. The pennetrating oil can make this a little easier. If it dosen't come out all the way, put a socket on it and hammer all the way out.
Step Three:
Turn the top plate over so that the bottom of the plate is facing upward. Clean the inside of the bearing bore and make sure there are no burs or metal flashings in the bore or in the snap ring groove. Spray a little oil in the bore then position the new bearing in the bore so that it's as level as possible. Now use the 21-24mm socket and the soft blow or ball-pean hammer to drive the new bearing all the way in. Use the socket that seems to fit the best so that it's edges are on the outer surface of the bearing but will still fit in the bore. I think I used a 24mm.
Once you hit bottom, the snap ring groove should be visable and right at the bottom of the bearings surafce. Snap the ring back in and reinstall the top plate.
Done, that's all it takes to get rid of that nasty clank. With an impact gun, it can be done in less than an hour. Without, give yourself a about two hours for stubborn strut nuts.
Later,
Bill
#4
04-18-2006, 08:51 PM
I dont have c/c plates, but still get a clunking/popping sound when braking, and when turning sharply at low speeds, think the stock junk rubber mount could cause such a noise?
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