yea thats nice, but to be quite honest i wasn't to happy with the 4v rout. I rode in a guys car with the 4.6 4v and it didn't interest me at all, he had a t56 and some really really steep gears and i felt like my car could have taken his off the line. but i really like the idea of the 5.4 b/c of a couple reasons. and forgive me i'm a lister. it keeps me orginized.

1) SNEEKY SNEEKY SNEEKY
2) SNEEKY SNEEKY SNEEKY
3) I've always said that ford shouldn't have lowered the CI of the mustangs .....what dip sharts.
4) I'd like to keep my auto and still feel some power and have a computer with a factory auto tuned in so i don't need aftermarket trans computers.
5) TORQUE TORQUE TORQUE
6) Well i'm running out of things to say but
7) $$$$$$ for a pretty easy swap and the gains for so CHEAP
8) I really want to be different.
9) I dreamed about me working on my car in like a year and it was a 5.4 2v with a vortec puting out about 16 pounds on a 8.5:1 Cr motor. Man i have some weird dreams but it sounded bad ***. My roommate said i was going roooom rooooom in my sleep lol. funny ****.
10) i want to feel the torque and make me go

Sorry, i'm just really looking forward to this swap. I need to go on and sell all that 4v crap and go on and get the 2v plates while they are 315 at RR. o and they still don't have gaskets lol. I going to look at a junk van and see if it has the 2v in it. if so i prob can get it for about 150 and rebuild it. I've heard that you have to do something to the oil pan to get the motor on it? could you explain? thanks

 

if u go 2v all u need is the adapters. i went ahead and used my 4.6 oil filter mount and oil pan. but it all is interchangable. i can tell u that the torque is insane. and i started with a nonpi 5.4, and i still beat up on stock cobras.
just think, u start with a stock 5.4 everything u add will make a bigger diffrence at the wheels then the 4.6 version.

 

hey real quick, confirmin that a 5.4l 3v wont work in an 03 gt

 

confirmed

 

it will work but you have to put a lot into it, like computer and wiring.

 

So guys, what really doesn't make these heads flow for these motors? everyone keeps flamming on me at other forums about doing the swap and i just had to fend off 2 people that was like either do a 3v or 4v swap and saying that i could get more power. I was like yea but i don't want 6oo hp, i just want to have the 2v with heads, cams, and s trim. and call it a daily driver lol. But really, would these heads do well on the 5.4 with just a set of bigger valves and a 4/5 angle valve job? that would be the best thing for them right?

Mitchell.

 

the way i see it is if i have a 2v i'm gonna stay with it for ease of the swap. ok, the 2v doesn't make the power the 4v does. but you are already getting a 90ish jump in rwtq. so i'm building a strong 2v for some serious fun. if i want to go nuts i'll jump up to 4v since i have coil pack on mine...

 

yea thats what i keep saying to people. everyone on corral and sn95 keeps flamming me for not going the major power rout and that is starting to tick me off. If someone wanted to get some stage 1 cams people don't talk crap b/c they are not getting stage 2 or 3 cams ya know.

 

the overall flow of 2v PI heads in stock trim is kinda low and a little more than half what a 3 or 4v flows. Ported 2v heads can flow pretty well but they're still nowhere near 3v or 4v.

I got all the bashing on all the boards when I first started toward my 2v 5.4 and for me it's pretty simple:

1. It's my car, I'm happy to have the power I'm putting into it.
2. It's not their car and they don't have to drive it.
3. 2v is more appropriate for street duty. Street rpm's rarely exceed 6K.
4. 2v is cheaper to build, maintain, mod, repair
5. 2v parts are almost free upside 4v
6. Wiring changes are zero
7. the thing basically just drops in to 2v cars.
8. There are more intake choices
9. cams cost 600 instead of 1000 bucks
10. It's still my goddamn car not theirs.
11. and if they're still not shutting up, then I tell them I'll have a total of 200-225hp worth of nitrous on tap and if they have a complaint about power then, they can get fugged.

 

Im on the wiring part of my swap, and came down to hooking up the injector harness to the harness that hooks up to the computer... The only problem is that the injector harness off the L is female and so is the connecting part off of my stang.... What do you recommend Red, get the schematics, splice and color match or buy an L computer? OR can i just use my stock injector harness on the L 5.4? If anyone here knows where i can get an L comp and harness for cheap or see's anyone selling one please let me know... Thanks Peeps!

 

refresh me on what all you are swapping out?

 

I know man, i keep haveing people tell me that it will be more $$$ than a 4v swap and then they say that you have to fabricate alot of stuff. I even heard that since its a truck motor it will have to much low and not enough top end, But i tried to explain that the 5.4 swap is cheaper than doing the pi swap and that it requires no fabing and you use the pi intake on the thing so that helps with the power and the range of it. Also, they said that it wouldn't rev as high and i said yea but i got an auto and its only going to 5500 so no big deal.

Hey what are the cc of the 5.4 pistons? if it has like 9.4:1 then if i put in a set of 98 cobra pistons what would the comp ratio be? like 11:1 or something? man that would be nice till i get another short block to forge and prep for a s trim. what ya think?

 

all my swap cost me was the adapters. nothing else. and the torque was insane. so don't let anyone try to burst your bubble. it's totally worth it and you will be happy with the results.

 

cool thanks

 

There's a few options. The easiest is probably out of the question and that's ditch the lightning intake and blower. After that... you should be able to use your stock injector harness and injector rail. you'll have to widen the crossover hose but I can't see it being much tougher than that. I'd probably go the diagram and solder route but I'm twitchy that way. Your computer should probably be able to handle the motor with just a proper tune but I totally don't know specifically exactly how to do that... I'd just look at it, make sense of it and solder my way to happiness.

Stock 5.4 2v pistons are exactly the same as standard 4.6L 2v slugs. what looks to be a -4.5cc dish. To get 11:1 (not blower friendly on pump gas) you'd need PI heads with flat top pistons (roughly... many factors will affect that). Mine's getting 4.5cc dished pistons. Static compression should tick in at 10.25:1 or thereabouts with my specific combo.

exactly. what are they going to say when a stock 5.4 2v with no real mods smokes them... imagine what happens when you mod the **** out of it.

There's a saying, "There's no substitute for cubic inches." It's 100% right.

 

yea true, so what would you think that the cobra's 3cc dish pistons would make ? like 10.5? that would be good since i'm just throwing one in for now and then building a short block with like 8.5:1 for a vortec upgrade later but that is way down the road. I want something a little more stockish now. :O)

 

I called my shop on Friday and they told me that I would have emission problems by switching to this motor due to the fact that it never came in a mustang.. ..is this true..question to all but definately to r3dn3ck (cause your in ca). ...thanks for taking the time to read this....

 

sorta... yes. It's 100% true that it's not "legal" in california to do the 5.4L swap. However, if you make it look stock then I can tell ya that there are VERY few smog techs that will even notice. use a stock PI intake (or paint a HPS intake black), and paint your adapter plates black. The smog tech almost certainly won't know the difference. As for the sniffer, keep your cam selection to stock or close to stock, and keep 4 cats on your H-pipe (I have a bassani X and it'll get 2 more cats for the smog test) and your tune should not be at maximum possible timing. After that... it's totally possible.

The guy out here with a Roush with a 5.4 passed the visual so we can too. He had stage 3 cams and is having trouble with the sniffer.

 

wow sounds like he should swap the stock cams back in. lol thats why i want this motor so bad. It looks so stock. Anyway, you could do that thing with the removable cats and just put them on for the sniffer test and then take them off, or run really high oct and it burns way more efficiently right? i don't know that much since i'm on east coast in NC and the inspector just ask if the signals work and how about the horn lol.

 

high octane isn't more efficient... it's harder to ignite. That's the difference. Using it at smog time probably would be counterproductive if it wasn't necessary. Since it's harder to light there's going to be more that makes it past the cats and you'll show high HC. Out here he's proabably going to have to slap the stock cams back in and get a retune, then smog it, then do it all over again. Eeeek. This is why I'm trying to stay on the mild side with my cams. The hard part out here is the visual. They'll fail you on just about anything so I like to find out of the way place where the owner works the counter and is into hot rods, toss them some regular business and ask him if he'd overlook any visual stuff as long as you can pass the sniffer. He escapes any probability of trouble cuz you could have added all that stuff after the test... they're bolt on parts after all.

 

Hey R3d, I think I might have found a guy that will smog and not pay close attention to visual. He sent me a message on another forum and just said it would cost a bit more. As soon as I get some more details I will let you know.

 

Do you think you could possiable let me know as well as r3d...since i'm in ca as well...i would really appreciate that very much...espically since i have to deal with driving on base...hey r3d..with this motor and the T-trim...500rwhp would be easy right...even with stock-mild cams.....thanks for taking the time to read this...

 

how much does it hurt hp to have 4 cats on or does it even matter...thanks for taking the time to read this....

 

Stang671, yeah no problem. My car doesn't need to be smogged until July or August, but I wanted to figure things out not since I have long tubes. I will definitely let you know when I get all the details.

 

Sick.. you rock!


500rwhp will require other upgrades but yeah... it's not hard to get there with generous amounts of boost. The T trim or maybe even something bigger will definitely allow for that. Make sure your bottom end is up to the task.

4 cats will cost you an easy 10-20hp over no cats at all for NA cars and possibly much more for blower/turbo/nitrous cars. They are a restriction if only a mild one. Power adders always benefit from free-er breathing.

 

when u say generous boost you mean...around 12lbs-14lbs is that good...or i pretty much won't be able to get that amount on ca 91.....and i was going to get that 1100hp from MMR...actually i'm in the middle of emailing them back and forth to see if they will work on my car while i'm gone...thanks for taking the time to read this...

 

no I mean like 15-17lbs or so (you'll need an intercooler). It'll work just fine with california gas but not too much further. The 1100 motor will take it just fine... I'd probably set it up for 9:1 and get the heads ported till hell won't have it.

 

that will work then...i'm waiting on a respone from MMR to see what they say about setting this up to have my car built by the time i return...the main thing i worry about is the rest of my car cause i won't be able to build that up until i return...so i know i'm going to have to drive it slow and stay out of the boost...i'm just not to sure how much the stock drive train can handle...thanks for taking the time to read this...

 

Hey r3d will the vortec aftercooler work on the 5.4 swap? thanks

 

your guess is as good as mine. I'd imagine there'll be some fitting to be done.