what gauges?

I really need to sell my heads, I put down a good chunk towards some ported ones I found and need these to sell to cover the rest.

 

Is an aftermarket oil pan "really" necessary? We all know the stock pan can hold a lot of oil. I'm gonna be spinning between 7k and 7500 so I'd need about 7 1/2 quarts. I kinda just answered my own question.

 

I have a C2 tranny temp gauge, a pro-lite oil press (IIRC) and a handful of Phantom series, I also have the Simco gauge cluster (identical to autometer).

I would put all the oil you can in. Get an external oil cooler and use the kickout type pan. The oil cooler will help keep the pan from running dry by increasing capacity a quart or 2 and cooling the oil never hurts.

Heat and friction wear oil additives (the useful part). More oil is more additives available to keep it working its best longer.

 

so should I get one of those MMR oil-adapter plates? Looks like that would be easier than finding an 03 cobra oil cooler to clear the alternator. I haven't looked into external oil coolers, so you'll have to school me on that.

 

I would look at a Maximum Motorsports (HP1 filter, not PH8A) relocation kit and then just buy an inexpensive heat exchanger off ebay and plumb some hoses.

Optionally you can get a Hayden cooler from summit (about 70 bucks) and just toss it on. It mounts between the filter and the block and does a great job and is easy as hell to mount up. You could even buy both the relocation kit and the oil cooler kit and then you're all set for supplies. You'd have about 200 bucks or so in it I figure.

 

Ok so the thing here is that I have to get a different oil cooler because of how I'm going to mount my alternator. They have the adapter plate that has AN fittings for 2 oil lines and a coolant line. I figured that would be a pretty good option for me.

 

Hello everyone. I have finished reading the entire thread. Thanks R3D for the intake. My TFS should be here by Sat. I am waiting to get in touch with FTP for long tubes. Once the hard parts are collected, I will be working on building the motor and figuring how to get a vortech attached to a 5.4 motor. I just learned last night that I am only 30 mins away from Kooks Exhaust Company. You guys have taught me alot and done all the trial and errors.

 

Just a thought, since I haven't bought an alternator relocation bracket or anything yet. How hard would it be to make my throttle body work on the drivers side? would it be as simple as turning the cable and welding the bracket onto my intake and just make it face the opposite direction?

If I were to do this, I could use a widened cobra coolant crossover/ thermostat housing, as well as the cobra alternator and bracket. It would save me a LOT of money fabricating parts if it's as simple as I think it may be. Then I could just put the battery either on the passenger side or in the trunk.

 

Here is a video of the car idling with the Stage 2 blower cams. Sounds twice as loud in person




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaqZXAm3VOs

 

What kind of exhaust are you running ortiz? Just makes me want to throw mine in like it sits just to hear it run.

 

Pypes o/r X and Bassani cat-back. I say do it to hear her run

 

pic from a swap meet i went to

 

I still need a few things before it's ready. I'm gonna wait on heads and cams before do anything.

 

That sounds great; cams might be Stage II but they aren't so radical the whole car shakes and barely idles. I'd say the sound quality and sound level are both right on the money. GREAT JOB !!!

 

wow! how much was that!! 15,000??

 

I'd just LOVE to have that Cobra-R motor ...

 

Got the intake pulled. That's shipping today. Everyone else waiting on parts from me, your part ships either today or tomorrow. I've been busting *** trying to get all the things pulled off for everyone. Rain is making my life fun. Thankfully it's not supposed to rain tomorrow so I'll have all day to yank parts.

Can you just flip the intake around to the other side? IIRC that should work. Put the battery in the trunk but make sure you use some heavy duty rubber vibration isolating pads.

Wouldn't we all. I pulled the rails with the intake. I'll be taking pics tonight. LMK if you want them. They're ready to ship.

 

Yep, it was actually supposed to face this way to begin with and I had it flipped around because I originally thought it would be "easier"

I just have to figure out how to get the throttle cable to line up like I want. I may have to use a longer cable, those universal ones may be the best option but I should be able to figure something out. Other than that, I'll probably have to move my cruise control module closer to give it enough room to make the bend, but that shouldn't be too much of an issue.

Shouldn't a battery relocation kit come with everything I need to keep it safe?

Also, should I cut a hole in my drivers side inner fender like the one on the other side to let air flow in to my intake?

 

in the military we have a saying "K.I.S.S." ( keep it simple stupid ) my opinion is after you move the battery just put in a normal air intake kit that will work with your setup. why complicate it by cutting your fender then worry about rust, then pulling the wheel off to change the filter or clean it. just my 2 cents!

and the battery relocation kits make sure you read up on them and look at what guage wireing they give and battery boxes! some are cheap! REAL CHEAP!!

 

R3D. Thanks for imformation on intake. If you get a chance write down and email me the tracking number. My UPS driver is constantly changing and hard to get them to leave packages. Good Luck with pulling parts. I can feel for what it means working in rain.

 

i used the steeda relocation kit.real nice quality kit.then i put a quick disconnect on it.that way when i park it somewhere ,all i have to do is disconnect it,shut the trunk,and a douche bag can forget the hot wiring.only way to the trunk is the key.i feel sorry for the ******* that tries to drop the seat and climb in that way.just a little added safety feature

 

That looks really nice! Great Job!!

 

Reason I mentioned a hole is because of how the stock intake is routed. It's supposed to draw cooler air from the fender. I don't know how much of a difference it would make just having an open filter down there with no hole.

I'll probably run one of those steeda kits, they look pretty nice. I'll look around though, may fab something up myself.

 

If anyone needs a dual stock pump/basket with the pprv delete kit for $75 let me know. Or i can do dual cobra pump/basket for $110 shipped. Didnt mean to hijack but its for anyone that is interested in adding more fuel for cheap.

Back on topic, i will have my tune probably by tomorrow morning and have her on the road. Maybe do a video of me driving by. Still cant floor it until i get my datalogs but have to wait on it.

 

You will never notice the diffrence between the CAI or the regular intake! it will be a matter of 2 or 3rwhp. just keep it simple its usually the better way to go!

 

Got some new toys for the swap.

 

I know that, I guess I'm just over-thinking things again.

 

Why are used 4v cams so hard to find? My build will be "budget" from here on out till it's done aside from headers obviously because I can't get them cheap unless I just get shorties which could be a temporary solution to get it running. I'm trying to get this thing up and running as quickly as possible at this point.

 

I've come across a problem, this happened yesterday on my way home from
Work so it's not track related. But on the rear end there's a couple of what look to be large rivits that hold the axel tubes in place.. They sheered off and the tube has turned. Any idea if I can somehow turn the tube back and maybe weld it in where the rivets were?

 

Joey: yes, yes, Be careful. Tack, then stitch. use a jig or you'll risk bending the tubes off straight.

Used 4v cams are usually all over www.svtperformance.net