I had bob not drill the intake for the alternator bracket. I don't use it. Thanks for the tip on the fill from thermo. I think that'll do it.

54mustang: www.themustangdepot.com for parts. They have H-beams for 320 and forged pistons under 500 bucks. You're welcome. Call them and tell them that guy that sends everyone there for 5.4 parts sent you. Also, what kind of power are you going for? Are you doing something about the stock head flow like porting or TFS heads? I can give you a rough idea of your final numbers so you can pick your fuel system.

 

Not necessary................trust me. If it sucks more air in, that's ok. If the T-stat is open, the air will work its way to the degas bottle, that is why it is called that. Run it with the cap off til the stat opens and keep topping it off. You may have to go back the next day and add a little more, there will inevitably be some little bubbles that you won't get the first time around. THey will eventually work up the the degas bottle. Do this and you'll be fine. You don't need to create a lot of extra work by removing the stat etc.

 

that's what I was doing but near as I can tell there's just so much air in the system that it's draining the bottle too fast for me to refill it, then the air heats and blows out the bottle taking a bunch of water with it. I think I have it mostly taken care of at this point but I'm going to finish up tonight and pull half the coolant out and add some antifreeze/coolant and a little water wetter. Thinking of driving it to work tomorrow.

 

DO IT!!! DO IT!!!!

 

I was looking at your build on that link. What long tube headers are you running on your 5.4L??

 

Custom. I had them made by a local American LeMans Series race shop as prototypes. The pipe layout was given to FTP for them to get a head start on the production units. They are otherwise unique.

 

Did FTP ever put these into production? Trying to see what I need for my build.

Also I was told that some Engines built in 2000 had a Forged Crank on the 5.4L? Is this true and if so how can I tell? Mine is a Windsor engine made Jan. 7th, 2000.

 

Yep. AFAIK they should have some available about now.

AFAIK you can only tell by the parting line. Should be really thin if it's a cast crank (like 1/16"). The parting line will be thicker and probably have machining marks on the parting line if it's forged.

 

Quick off topic question, if I got a shortblock that's bored 20 over, forged pistobs forged rods and stuff would I need a tune? Id just like to put my stock stuff back in to have a running car.

 

if you had a 4.6 in it before, yeah. If you're just taking out a 5.4 and boring that 5.4 .020 over and then reinstalling it, then no it's not different enough to bother.

 

Ok here is the plan and thoughts:

Ported PI heads
Light Cam to be decided
forged Rod
forged Pistons
ported HPS intake
Self tune using SCT PRP

No idea on brands.

 

Get more cam than you think you'll want. Start around 230deg duration @.050.

Modularheadshop.com for the cams, www.themustangdepot.com for the rods and pistons, heads.. meh. I wouldn't try to tune it yourself unless you're very experienced with EEC tuning. It's got a VERY steep learning curve and nobody is going to be really helpful. You'll want a professional tune anyway. If you plan to still tune it, then get a wideband o2 sensor and display. www.innovatemotorsports.com has good ones, LM1 or LC1+display.

 

I don't want the cam to be too wild. My Cobra is cammed and it kills drivibilty . This is more or less my DD until I get a truck. On the Cobra I am running the Dynojet Wideband commander and I am pretty happy with that.

Thoughts on Stroking the 5.4L? The Cobra 4.6L has been stroked to 5.0L for 5 years so would like to do that. Thoughts on a good 6.0L or 6.1L Stroker?

 

godstang...the reason they tell you to get more cam than what you think is because the 5.4 likes more than the 4.6. it will not make the drive-ability to bad.

when it comes to stroking a 5.4 just remember the rods are long to begin with. then finding a stroker kit itself is hard.

here is one but you gotta pay out the *** for it.

this crank with make the 5.4 into 6.2

http://www.paschalperformance.com/st...products_id=78

 

Damn ok guess I will stick with normal stroke. With the 4V when you add bigger cams you need to upgrade the valve springs and what not do you need to do this with the 2Vs and if so what are good valve springs? I guess Crower or comp valve springs?

 

depends on the cam. Any cam that's going to be worth a damn, yeah you'll need springs for. You've got the brands down too.

EDIT: on a stroked 5.4, a 2v would be pointless. A 4v with ported heads and a proper set of bumpsticks could use it but it'd still be too much stroke. If you want more inches there's always the 3500 dollar MMR sleeved 5.8L block

 

Ya I am trying to keep this whole build to around $2K-$3K for just a refreshed DD. I will stick with the stock stroke.

 

was talking to tj yesterday. he was working on my turbo headers aliitle and he will be starting on the 6 sets of LT's in a week or two when he gets caughtup on the other stuff in there.

 

Any have the stats on the headers? what metal what size and what price? 1-5/8" to 3" collector I thought I read.

 

yea godstang u will need springs but look at it this way....half the valves half the valve springs.

you can make big numbers with a stroked 2v

on a mmff svt shootout they had the gt500's vs the cobras vs the lightnings. out of all the vehicles this lightning placed 2nd and was just a **** hair away from first. its a 360 ci 2v

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...lightning.html

and thats with pi heads not trickflows!

 

Godstang: I think that's correct. Mine are 1.75" into a 3.5" collector, which proved it could be done.

I drove the Beast to work today. It was nice to get back in it. Still for sale. 10K. The drive to work is 37 miles of mostly freeway. Took it up to about 95, felt pretty good. Could use an alignment though. It's still on my race settings which are not really street friendly. The thing tramlines like a bitch.

 

take it to the track this weekend....

 

So, sizing for turbo's....

Thoughts on a 70mm single?

 

I've got a dyno app for my Android phone, I'm going to see what the 1/4 and 0-60 and all that is according to it. It's a top 12's car right now.

 

a single 70 should be perfect. What AR's are you looking at? .68 hot and .96 cold?

 

Yupp .68 ar Its a master power turbo.

Thats good to hear...the guy is local, and IIRC thats the same turbo that On3Performance use's for there kit.

 

.68 will help it spool up nice and quick without being corked. The AR on the cold side will determine the characteristics after that. With a .68 cold side I think it'd leave a little air volume and thence power on the table that you could get with a .80 or a .96 cold side but that's really peak power anyway.

If you can get me a compressor map I can do a proper dyno sim for you.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0gAJN7gN7s
So here it is.....A big thanks to Red, myillwill, and everyone else....I officially have the only 5.4L converted Mustang in Germany!

 

no thanks needed, it's all you man. we just support a fellow swapper in his dream.....

 

Ditto that. Congrats Nate. Great work man.