Talked to bob again. Machining is still progressing. He has someone in mind for each intake that's in machining now and he's working on the next run already. Expect shipping to start probably Tuesday. I don't know what's holding the machine shop up but it's a pretty big order and fairly complex. I think they're doing one operation to all of them and then doing the next operation. Possibly the least efficient way to get them to people but the most efficient for minimizing the total project time.

 

TurboX2: Here's the part I have, LMK if you want it

 

im am going to do the swap , i first want to know what trucks/vans i can get a motor from . and what motor will i not have to change timing chain cover?

 

You're gonna need a 5.4 timing cover no matter what. I've got a 2v one in my garage that needs a home.

 

Finally got it tuned!!!!!

254hp 5000rpm
311tq from 2000 to 3800rpm's

I now know my clutch is slipping! could explain why the tq is down!

MUSTANG DYNO
NPI Steen ported heads
PI cams
9.8 compression
HPS hardballer intake
Stock upper plenum
FRPP shorties
H- pipe no cats

Here's the funny!
My stock rear gear is.......2.73 I always assumed it was 3.27!

Any how, driving it this morning I got it into 4th gear, rpm's about 1000 at 30mph, and thought I would see if the car would pull out of it. DUH....it did with no sweat, but that's when I found out the clutch slip. When I pressed the go pedal down, the rpm's came up about 500rpms(like a stall converter) and when it grabed it came back down.
Tire slip? not likly! I have 315/35/18 nitto drag radials and they are good and sticky. There is no wheel spin when I(baby) launch it.

It's been a long time coming for this tune and all who knows me knows...................IT'S ABOUT TIME!

 

I got my eye on a 2005 DOHC Nav motor for sale at about $2-K.

There is also a 1999 Nav motor available for around $1700.00

Both are complete motors, but no trans. Both sellers claim they are drop-ins. Mileage on both is unknown.

I'm basically looking for a long-block core but preferrably one that is totally complete.

I'd like some input on what appears to be the average price(s) Yall have paid for the same engine(s) in the past so I'll know what to look out for.

Can the Nav motors usually be had for less?

I appreciate the assistance.

 

congrats dude!!!!!!!!!!

 

what size injectors are you using?

 

Could I just use the one it comes with. I thought I read somewhere that you had to change the cover. And also I'm thinking about stage 2 heads and 270 cam.

 

Congratulations on your accomplishment !!!

 

If it comes with a timing cover then yes. I only have to get a new timing cover because I'm going DOHC and I originally bought a SOHC longblock.

Has anyone tried to use bassani midlength headers on a 5.4? I'm wondering if I could manage to squeeze a set in there.

 

Congrats. With a slipping clutch even. I bet you'll see some gains just from the new clutch. The cams are holding the numbers back too but there's no shame in a car that's fast at all RPM's.

I'd take the 99... you're going to build it right? It's cheaper. The newer one would probably use the heavier NVH block too which adds 18lbs to the front end. It doesn't otherwise matter IMO. The prices are ok either way for a complete 4v motor.

If it comes with a timing cover you can use that.

Don't use the 270 cam. I have it and it really leaves a lot on the table. Try the MHS stage 3 or 3.5 5.4 NA cam. It should make better power and stretch out the top end a bit.

I think you'll need to modify them a bit. I've seen them on a mach1 and they were needing us to weld them together (so a PITA to install), fit was pretty tight anyway. If you're going to spend that much, might as well go whole hog and get the LT's from FTP.

 

The specific issue with the timing cover is motors after '01, I think it is, have a different cover that's missing the two bolt holes for the power steering pump.

 

I was looking on modmax at a rotating assembly.

My first question is are the Kieth Black pistons any good or should i step up to manley pistons?
What about the modmax rods with ARP 2000 bolts or should i go with 8740 bolts?
Is the internal balancing worth the extra money?
What about stainless steel piston rings?

The car for right now will be a TFS heads and stage 3.5 TFS cams. HPS Intake. 30lb injectors. JBA cat4ward headers. And full bolt ons. It may eventually get a shot of n2o or a turbo but the turbo wouldnt be for about 3 years. n2o could be 2 months away.

Just need some suggestions before i throw in an order for stuff i may never need.

 

Well, dyno tune next wed. So I'll have final numbers on the car.

On a side note...anyone have a L swap they are trying to get rid of?

 

Manleys if you're definitely going to use a power adder like nitrous or boost in the future. I'd do it anyway.

ARP2000 bolts only please. No sense cheaping out on the 1 thing that fails the most catastrophically and often.

Stainless rings.. nah. Not for a street car I think. Standard plasma moly.

These motors are internally balanced. Don't balance it and you get to buy a new one immediately after you start it. So, have the best balance job you can get done.

Oh... and I think you need to bump the injectors to 36lbs. You'll be really close to the limit of the 30's.

 

How is the driving feel before/after?


Any of you guys looking for Ford or FRPP parts give Tousley Ford in MN a call, 1-800-328-9552, ask for Steve. They sell for 10% over cost on the FRPP stuff. For instance, I just bought 30lb EV1 slim injectors that I found for a best of $189 online, Tousley was $178. Also bought a new 3v timing cover for $104.

 

getting my rotating assy balanced as we speak. Thanks Level Performance.

 

I mentioned this in my thread on corral and was wondering if anyone over here might have some insight on it.

The sullivan intake says it has the bolt pattern for a holley carb on top just like the edelbrock victor jr intake does. I was thinking rather than use the sullivan elbow, I could use the edelbrock one and then I might be able to save some hood clearance and also run a GT style CAI. Anyone think this might be a good idea or know if I would actually save any height on the intake by doing this? If nobody knows, I might just give it a shot and see what I come up with. The only thing I can see being an issue which really shouldn't even come close is possible interferance from the fuel rails but I'm pretty sure they sit low enough on the manifold that it shouldn't be a problem.
The edelbrock elbow looks a lot lower than the sullivan one and it's a lot cheaper too, plus running a normal style intake would make things so much easier and cleaner.

 

What year range offers the lightest blocks to buy?

Also ...

A friend of mine wants to know anything you might be able to pass on regarding Lincoln Aviator motors?

As always ... The assistance is appreciated.

 

pre-01 is lightest.

aviator motors are basically mach1/01 cobra motors with different intakes.

 

I've been talking to a couple people asking me what would be involved in putting a GT500 blower on top of a 5.4 4v. I'm assuming it's the same block, what exactly would it take to get it to work on an older car?

 

Before with the 4.6l,.........an absolute turd !
before the dyno tune with the 5.4l,......not as bad as a 4.6l turd!
After the tune,...............................

I've got factory 2.73 rear gears with a 5speed,...OK. I can be cruising the highway and get down to 40mph, around 1000rpm's, press the gas down some and it will pull! It slips the clutch too! Rpm's will rise like a stall for a second and then the speed with the rpm's will match and that's when the clutch grabs. Brand new 11"clutch, turned flywheel, but obviously not enough! When the rpm's get to 2000rpm's at anygear,.............hold on!

 

I have picked up a 3.55 gear and have also switched out the upper plenum for something bigger, this opened the top end a little more.

Alltogether,....I love it! But when I give others a ride, they are not impressed. They don't feel the torque like I do

 

I have a 1996 cobra 4.6 4v and I was wondering if it would be better to upgrade my 4.6 4v or install a 5.4 4v and upgrade that?

 

it wouldn't be too hard to goto a 5.4 4v since you have coil paks. just a sullivan intake and a few tweaks and your golden.......

 

yep, the hardest part to find is the navi timing cover.

 

I thought it would be pretty simple it's just I'm wondering what's the best way to go cost wise since they have about the same performance cause I found a 5.4 4v for $3,600 and the intake is $669 so that's about $4,300 and then the cost of mods

 

Nice car ... I'm jealous ...

To answer your question; IMO ... there is NO substitute for cubic inches ...

 

that really isnt that hard to find? i have one brand new never used,but im keeping it in my 4v stash got brand new set of 4v heads new ford gt blue valve covers gotta keep the closet filled with good **** lol,but i have seen a few navi covers for sale 75-180 just depends condition