There's a handful of settings that need to be changed to get it to idle right and decel right. Otherwise, the 4.6 tune is the correct base.

You'll need to update manifold volume and engine displacement. Everything else depends on the intake and exhaust choices.

 

Stock 4.6 threw a rod out the block so i went with this

2001 PI 5.4 out of an F150 stock long block
4.6 PI intake manifold with adapter plates
OEM 2003 Mach 1 Hood
CDC Shaker System
18x8.5 18x9.5 Ruff Racing Rims
295 Goodyear Eagle F1's in the rear
Steeda Subframe Connectors
Single Adjustable Lower Control Arms
Eibach Drag Launch Springs
Granatelli front coil overs 200lbs
Granatelli Caster Camber Plates
Offroad X pipe
SLP Loudmouth 1s Dumped
Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator
Summit 75mm Throttle Body
Professional Products Plenum
Trick Tuners 93 Octane Tune
JLT RAI
4.10 Gears
Built 3650
Superior Engineering Hardened 28 Spline Axles









This thread made it all possible, it runs like a champ and this fall Im going to add an Aluminum Driveshaft, HPS intake, Underdrive Pullies, Electric Water Pump, MGW Short Throw Shifter, Summit Revolver 15"s and ET streets and drive it deep into the 12's and go from there.

 

Wow super nice car. Its almost my car twin!!

I just put the deposit on the 2001 5.4L. I pick it up tomorrow evening. I am so excited.

 

nice car. Looks good. I would ditch those injectors with the HPS intake and jump to 24's or 30's. I prefer 30's myself.

 

30lbs and the HPS is the plan I am saving up as we speak. Depeding on how much power I make and how fast i can run the 1/4 will determine what I do next.

Maybe all out MMR 12:1 compression long block, ported TFS heads, Ported HPS, MHS Cams.

or just ported PI heads and MHS cams stock bottom end

 

those are opposite ends of the performance universe.

On a positive note, I drove the beast yesterday. Burned the rust off the brakes and got it rumbling down the road. It was really nice to get back in the beast. Video of the idle session later. Then maybe a burnout vid this weekend.

 

Nice!!!! Congrats!

I know if feels good to take it down the street

 

CONGRATS BRO ... !!!

Glad all your hard work is paying off !!!

 

Just checked MMR's website and the K-member/a-arm/coil-over package is back at $800. Why does this always have to happen when I'm out of town ... ???

I guess when they do a "Deal of the Day" that's exactly what it means ...

 

drove the **** out of it this evening. took it around the block a couple times and did some pretty monster burnouts. It missed once under WOT which concerned me but that's not to be unexpected after it sitting for nigh on a year.

 

Absoultely ... got a full tank of fresh gas ???

 

I put 2 gallons of fresh on top of about 3 quarts of the stale **** that was still in there.

 

anyone know how to take the front end out? I already got the bumper, the headlight holder thing, and now im at the Styrofoam thing and the metal bar behind it...now idea how to take it off..




Thats where im at...

 

I think the foam is only held on with adhesive.

 

Fill the tank with fresh gas. Run it out as much as possible then change the fuel filter and refill the tank on top of a bottle of that LUCAS fuel additive. Run the Lucas for 1 or 2 tanks. You'll love the results while at the same time eliminating the fuel as a reason for backfire. It worked a couple of times for me.

 

Thanks for the tip!

 

It's adhesive and there's a couple of screws. But theyr flat surfaced, by that I mean theyr not Phillips or anything...

 

washed the beast off a bit (not a complete wash but you can see the paint now). going out to bust out the rest of the nitrous wiring and see about doing the clutch quadrant/cable/adjuster.

 

Well after two adventurous days dealing with a 70yr old drunk man knowing nothing about no engine and to get off his property cause "Somethin goin on here" we ended up with it:

 

well done. Nice and complete.

Hey guys, the beast is back up for sale again. 10K firm. I'll drive it out to you if you're in another state. Comes with new corbeau seats of your choice and a new fibreglass hood of your choice painted to match.

 

What A/C setup do I use? Do I use the one off the 5.4L or the one off my Mustang or does it matter?

 

Update on mine....Got the motor back together and back in....hooked everything back up, and now all it wants to do is crank...Getting spark and there is fuel to the rails....

 

Another update! Note to self....make sure that you double check all sensors before trying to trouble shoot a no start condition....Turns out the crank sensor was not plugged in....
But now I have another problem....
As soon as the car ran, coolant started coming out of a tube in the firewall near the floorboard and the passenger side....With as many times as I have pulled a motor out of this car, I have never noticed it. Does anything connect to it? Would it hurt anything if I just bypassed the heater core?

 

Nah, as long as its summer anyway, if its the one I'm thinking about, its for the condensation from the A/C.

 

Not planning on driving it during the winter anyway....

 

Don't think it'll matter but you should use the one that's already on your car so you don't have to recharge it.

Bypass that sumbitch.



Problem of my own: I need to burp the cooling system. It overpressured yesterday after I cam home and shut it down from a little play time and all kinds of coolant and air came out. Then when I opened the reservoir to add more it sucked all that was left in there down and got yet more air in the system. I have the thermostat in which I think is only causing me more problems right now.

The problem I'm having is that due to the way I have my heater core plumbed in with the crossovers in the rear of the intake I end up with a high spot that sits above the rest of the engine. The 2nd complicating factor seems to be the thermostat since it only opens when the motor is already boiling *** hot. So my question is: should I just pop out the thermostat and run it for a few minutes keeping it topped off to burp out the cooling system, then slap the thermo back in? I know it won't get out of warm up mode for a longer time than normal but it's only for burping and not for general driving.

 

If your driveway is slanted up (thought I remember that being the case in some old pics) let it sit in your driveway and idle with the cap off. All of the air should eventually work its way to the degas bottle. Keep it near the top as you go. Once the upper hose is hot to the touch, you can top it all the way off and put the cap on. That should do it.

 

Did that and it sucked the bottle dry as soon as the thermostat opened and then sucked more air into the system. The driveway angle isn't severe enough.

I think I'll try the thermostat method and see how that works out. I need to put antifreeze/coolant in it anyway. It's running pure water and water wetter right now.

 

I have changed my mind with the direction of the car to get more power for my dollar.

A high compression N/A 2v 5.4 would be nice but for the money I could go faster.

Im looking at a low compression, blower cams, and intercooled tork tech kit.

 

Since you happen to have the HPS... pop out one of those bolts for the alternator bracket to get rid of most of the air.

And the guy I talked to says he always fills from the thermostat anyway.