Damn that Blower along with everything else looks amazing....

 

Will a Navigator intake fit on a GT500 longblock?

 

Shiiiiit, easy on me guys. I hadn't had the intention to run, and hadnt been hard on the car, but went to the track to watch and a few buddies talked me into running it to get a baseline.

The 60 ft I blame big time on tires, best 60ft with both 5.4 and 4.6 were 4.6- 2.3 and 5.4 - 2.36-2.44 range. They are Sumitomos that suck to begin with, not to mention are in need of replacing. Being hard on the car without a tune was not my intent, but it was a spur of the moment idea to run it just to see.

I recently contacted a place that has done a lot of modular mustang work in the area, and am going to set it up for a tune in the next couple weeks. I don't DD the car, so it rarely sees any driving action, and if it does on the street it is always tame.

But the engine is definately hesitating lower in the RPM range, and I knew it was going to be a less than ideal time, but a 9.55 is downright embarassing so I just needed a little reassurance from you guys. Tune is coming soon, and I'm definately bringing along the drag radials next time. I'm a consistent driver, could ran 9 flats consistently with the 4.6 and just sold my '86 Fox car not long ago, went 8.80s in it everytime I made a pass.

I realize I need to be smacked for even making an untuned pass to begin with, but I just kind of wanted to know, and being right there at the track, it was just convenient. It will def be the last time it's driven hard until it is tuned, and I can't wait to make a nice strong pass after the tune.

 

Lose the adapters!! THEN get it tuned. Drive it easy in the meantime until you get that done. Then retry your track run and get back with us with the results.

 

I found my MAF... it was in the car. Giggity. So now I have a spare LMAF body (drilled for a methanol nozzle) and a spare 80mm stock MAF body and 6-wire sensor on the way.

I did a little inventory of my AN fittings and I have what I need to do something really neato. You'll all dig it. Coming right off the hardline with a -6 elbow into my trick flow filter and then right into the -8 feed hose. Want my damned intake!

 

Need a little help finding parts....

After looking at pretty much every engine option I could find I've settled on just rebuilding my 3v. I'm going to pick up a new block, and am deciding on rods/pistons. I could just get a couple new stock rods and one piston and put it together in the new block. That will be marginal for a 5800-6000 shift point though, so I'm looking at how cheaply I can forge it.

The TMD I-beam rods are only $320 so its all good there. Anyone know the weight of a stock rod? If the TMD are very close in weight I could possibly just replace the rods and keep my pistons.

If I end up buying pistons what have people used? I need stock bore flat top 0cc, any suggestions?

 

If dropping the adapters and picking up an HPS 5.4 intake were as simple as typing "lose the adapters" then I'd already have them. The adapters will do fine for my use of the car, and are certainly a MUCH MUCH cheaper option. If there was a 200-300 dollar difference in adapters and HPS intake, and there was no wait on production, hell yea id go for it. Buuuut I've only got 160 in the used adapters with all hardware, so I'm not about to bitch. I hardly over go to the track, it's mainly just a fun ride to wheel around on the street.

I will certainly update you guys with times after I get it tuned.

 

How expensive is a balance job? Shouldn't be much more than 100 bucks... I'd pick up some navigator or cobra pistons and get that CR up to 11:1. Don't know the weight of a stock rod but you have 8 of them laying around right... grab ye a scale.

 

Vegas, don't take it personally man... we just want the best for you and your car. We hate to see good 5.4's get underused. Go drive that beast somewhere. Just stay out of the gas.

 

I think a balance is around $150. Two stock rods, stock rod bolts, and a stock piston will run around $155. Aftermarket rods, pistons, and balancing would be around ~$1030. After more thought and talking with an engine guy I'm going to go the stock route and I'll just keep the rpm down. With that money I'm gonna box the heads up and send them to Kris Starnes Racing for porting, valve job, etc... It'll be pretty interesting to see if I hit 300rwhp with stock cams.

 

Well I got alot done this weekend, Got the motor in / bolted up to the tranny and sitting on solid motor mounts. Found out the hard way that MSD coils don't fit under FORE fuel rails and had to put an extra o-ring in the intake to raise my injecters to make everything fit. Now I'm just waiting for tork tech to ship me a custom 10-rib pully system for the blower's belt drive.

Enjoy...

 

Also does anyone have a 5.4 dipstick and tube I could buy off them?

 

looks sweet! very nice!!!

 

ENJOYABLE IT IS ... WOW ... That really looks great !!!

 

Thanks man, and I totally understand. Im anxious to get it tuned for sure.

 

Just a little confirmation to tune................I just blew mine up. I have been working with Rick at Amazon Tuning Solutions on it for over two months. The timing curve was off and it would fall on its face at tip in. I slowed down for some tracks, rolled into it (as normal, not getting on it) to accelerate back up to speed and WHAM! broke a rod and put a hole in the block. Back to square one for me! Thanks Rick!

 

 

Hey Red, what was the rods that you said were good?? Do they have good bolts in them?? What are some good pistons to get for a SC engine?? I'm looking for a good balance between cost and high quality, good strength etc. In otherwords, not top notch high dollar best-of-the-best, and not cheap made in China junk, either.

 

what about thesehttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-5-4-H-beam-4340-Connecting-Rods-6-658-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cadf13b4eQQitemZ26061 6305486QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

 

that ****** sucks horspla. you said you work at ford right. do you get any discounts from them?

reason i ask is cause if this company can sell these for 2900 shipped and still make profit then maybe you can get it for less

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

also if there are any 5.4 swap guys that just happen to have a stupid amount of money here is something for you to spend it on.

2000 cobra r upper intake

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-...item3f007faf56

2000 cobra r lower intake

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-...item3f0080815e

2000 cobra r heads

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-...item3f007fcd1c

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6-658...Q5fAccessories

 

Alright, everybody chime in. What are good/bad components for a shortblock. I guess I'm doing this sooner than I thought I was gonna.

 

Also, what it the hot ticket with rings and bearings??

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...Q5fAccessories

Which should I get, I beam or H beam??

 

www.themustangdepot.com call them up. Tell them that guy that keeps sending people in for 5.4 parts sent you.

I use the h-beams from them. So do about half of the rest of us. It's a good value and they use ARP2000 bolts.
http://www.themustangdepot.com/servl...6L-5.4L/Detail

Probe pistons are good forgings but not Diamond/JE level. Good stuff from the middle shelf. 21cc dish gets you about 8.7:1 with PI heads, 11cc gets you about 9.7:1.
http://www.themustangdepot.com/servl...ns-ford/Detail

I used Federal Mogul and Speed Pro H-series rod and main bearings and ARP head studs and main studs with OEM Ford MLS head gaskets and Total Seal rings.

EDIT: I beam vs. h-beam is your call. I beams can be found that are lighter and suitable for higher RPM but really, it doesn't matter in the RPM ranges we're using. <6500rpm isn't going to stress either much so long as it's an otherwise good quality performance part.

 

So does TMD have the Probe pistons I need?? Is that who makes the rods I'm looking at?? I am SC so I need lower compression. Looks like the 21ccers would be what to get. Yeah, i wanna do the APR studs while I'm at it, too.

 

I started taking everything apart today to mock it up with the 4v heads and to get them off the floor. I got to this point and stopped because I want to figure out what all I need to pick up as far as timing components before I go any farther. Here is what I'm looking at.

block
34db93ca.jpg?t=1276644319

cc3904e5.jpg?t=1276644777

photo.jpg?t=1276644793

I'm also wondering about a couple more things.

Are all DOHC valve covers the same?
Can I use the same alternator?
Are navi and cobra coolant crossovers the same and how does the thermostat housing work with it?

 

dam horse i hate to hear that,thats the same **** that happened to me compliments from chris tuten,dam dude i feel your pain i only put 50 miles on mine before it blew

 

Yeah, I can't wait to hear what Ricks response will be, if any. I have been bitching about the low RPM low load hesitation (BAD) since day one. He never addressed the issue. I spent all kinds of $ on a wideband and a cable so I can datalog it and still nothing. I have so many hours in datalogging etc. that is just isn't worth it. Shoulda just went to a chassis dyno fron the get-go and been done with it. Escecially since there is one within 20 miles of my house. AND they're and SCT dealer, too, which is what I have. UGH UGH UGH!!!!!!!!

 

Alright Red. Give me a list of what I need. I got the TMD rods. I checked the link on the pistons and I think I'll just call them on those, too. I will need to see what bore i will end up at before I order them, but tell me what I should get. Seems like you have done your homework on all of these different parts. Like, what's up with the H bearings. Rings?? Good place to get ARP head and main studs?? etc. etc. Oh, and what is the good oil pump to get?? Ford Racing high volume??