View Poll Results: What are your 5.4L swap plans?
Voters: 220. You may not vote on this poll
Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine.
#9242
06-16-2010, 08:17 AM
Alright Red. Give me a list of what I need. I got the TMD rods. I checked the link on the pistons and I think I'll just call them on those, too. I will need to see what bore i will end up at before I order them, but tell me what I should get. Seems like you have done your homework on all of these different parts. Like, what's up with the H bearings. Rings?? Good place to get ARP head and main studs?? etc. etc. Oh, and what is the good oil pump to get?? Ford Racing high volume??
#9243
06-16-2010, 10:44 AM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 9,865
No, you'll need a 4v alternator and pigtail.
I don't think they're different but they're coupled with rubber hoses anyway so it shouldn't matter anyway, just use a little longer hose. Thermostat housing is generally part of the intake manifold.
Alright Red. Give me a list of what I need. I got the TMD rods. I checked the link on the pistons and I think I'll just call them on those, too. I will need to see what bore i will end up at before I order them, but tell me what I should get. Seems like you have done your homework on all of these different parts. Like, what's up with the H bearings. Rings?? Good place to get ARP head and main studs?? etc. etc. Oh, and what is the good oil pump to get?? Ford Racing high volume??
Rings... there's a lot of opinions. I don't have the experience to speak on the subject. TMD sent me the Total Seal rings with my Probe pistons, we switched from Mahle to probe because the Mahle were back ordered for like 6 months at the time in the size I needed.
ARP all the way. Head studs, main studs, crank balancer bolt, cam bolts. You can get all that and the bearings and gaskets from Summitracing.com.
That's where I got all my little bits from. Summit has a few grand of my money by now.
#9244
06-16-2010, 11:34 AM
Cool. I'll get the spare block I had apart tonight and stripped. I'll ship it to a machinist to check it out and see what bore I will go to. Then I can order the pistons and rings etc. etc. Rods are on the way. I'll have some pics soon of the damaged block/rod. Thanks again, Rick!!
#9245
06-16-2010, 02:47 PM
the12fast4u and horsepla2000:
you guys both went with 5.4 SC setups from lightnings correct? obviously not untuned, but with bad tunes? and are both down now?
WOW!
I just got my xcal2 tune from Tuners Inc here in florida. (SCT dealer/trainer) I have a 93 octane and a stock config. (both setup for the 5.4L) Im gonna try this out for a bit then take it back for some tweaking. Although my setup is as stock as can be!!!
Just curious as to where the complications came from in the tune... too much spark? not enough fuel? or undetermined?
Good luck with the rebuilds.
you guys both went with 5.4 SC setups from lightnings correct? obviously not untuned, but with bad tunes? and are both down now?
WOW!
I just got my xcal2 tune from Tuners Inc here in florida. (SCT dealer/trainer) I have a 93 octane and a stock config. (both setup for the 5.4L) Im gonna try this out for a bit then take it back for some tweaking. Although my setup is as stock as can be!!!
Just curious as to where the complications came from in the tune... too much spark? not enough fuel? or undetermined?
Good luck with the rebuilds.
#9246
06-16-2010, 04:58 PM
I've had my 5.4 in my mustang for almost a year now, It's still a stock PI heads and cams car with
pro products plenum
offroad x pipe
slp LM1 dumped
coil overs all around konti struts and lakewood 50 50 shocks
flsfc
single adj lower control arms
Custom 93 octane tune - Tricktuners.com
I have 404$ to use at summit racing in returns from parts that i got that were defective or that I decided not to use. I can't get the money back in cash and use it at MHS or a similar place because some people bought the parts for me with their credit and debit cards so itd be an exchange. I want to put the money towards cams they have comp cams, trickflow, and crane cams. They have a small selection i wanted to know what cam would be the best grind. I would pay the difference of the money out of pocket for the difference of cams, valve springs, timing chain and degree kit, cam gears and all gaskets. Just looking for someone to point me in the right direction
pro products plenum
offroad x pipe
slp LM1 dumped
coil overs all around konti struts and lakewood 50 50 shocks
flsfc
single adj lower control arms
Custom 93 octane tune - Tricktuners.com
I have 404$ to use at summit racing in returns from parts that i got that were defective or that I decided not to use. I can't get the money back in cash and use it at MHS or a similar place because some people bought the parts for me with their credit and debit cards so itd be an exchange. I want to put the money towards cams they have comp cams, trickflow, and crane cams. They have a small selection i wanted to know what cam would be the best grind. I would pay the difference of the money out of pocket for the difference of cams, valve springs, timing chain and degree kit, cam gears and all gaskets. Just looking for someone to point me in the right direction
Last edited by 54mustang; 06-16-2010 at 05:04 PM.
#9247
06-16-2010, 06:28 PM
the12fast4u and horsepla2000:
you guys both went with 5.4 SC setups from lightnings correct? obviously not untuned, but with bad tunes? and are both down now?
WOW!
I just got my xcal2 tune from Tuners Inc here in florida. (SCT dealer/trainer) I have a 93 octane and a stock config. (both setup for the 5.4L) Im gonna try this out for a bit then take it back for some tweaking. Although my setup is as stock as can be!!!
Just curious as to where the complications came from in the tune... too much spark? not enough fuel? or undetermined?
Good luck with the rebuilds.
you guys both went with 5.4 SC setups from lightnings correct? obviously not untuned, but with bad tunes? and are both down now?
WOW!
I just got my xcal2 tune from Tuners Inc here in florida. (SCT dealer/trainer) I have a 93 octane and a stock config. (both setup for the 5.4L) Im gonna try this out for a bit then take it back for some tweaking. Although my setup is as stock as can be!!!
Just curious as to where the complications came from in the tune... too much spark? not enough fuel? or undetermined?
Good luck with the rebuilds.
#9248
06-16-2010, 09:53 PM
horspla....
Why not talk with the people that are setting up the short block? Usually most reputable places will give you a better deal the more you spend with them. Just try to find a place that knows how to hanlde a modular motor.
My buddy had a place that set up his first 5.4 and they set it up pretty loose, treating it like a small block Chevy... Burned oil like a ****.
Why not talk with the people that are setting up the short block? Usually most reputable places will give you a better deal the more you spend with them. Just try to find a place that knows how to hanlde a modular motor.
My buddy had a place that set up his first 5.4 and they set it up pretty loose, treating it like a small block Chevy... Burned oil like a ****.
Last edited by StalkerStang; 06-16-2010 at 09:55 PM.
#9249
06-17-2010, 06:33 AM
yes mine drove like stock until you went wot and it was insane,i had fuel system technical problems thats why mine checked out.but the tuner should and could have spotted the problem easy,as rick at amazon did for my friend with his car,not sure what went wrong on horses car but im not big on mailout tunes,my **** is gonna be strapped down and tailored for my car and its needs on the spot
Rick at Amazon did mine and it WAS ALL SCREWED UP from day one!! I have a problem on my end with fuel pressure BUT it is ONLY A PROBLEM AT WOT and I knew that, so I didn't go WOT. Mine blew at an astounding 2000 RPM due to a timing and a fuel problem. I bitched about this from day one and the issue was never addressed and BOOM. Gone now. Anybody thinking of dealing with an email tune, DON'T DO IT!! It is not worth it. I learned the hard way. I guess if you have a no-brainer VERY common and predictable combo, it may be ok, but stay away from custom tunes. Go to a chassis dyno where you can deal with problems on the spot and work through them and KNOW you've got it handled when you're done. Mine ran like crap from day one actually. Once it is sorted out, I think it will be good, but that seems a long way off right now.
#9250
06-17-2010, 08:03 AM
Rick at Amazon did mine and it WAS ALL SCREWED UP from day one!! I have a problem on my end with fuel pressure BUT it is ONLY A PROBLEM AT WOT and I knew that, so I didn't go WOT. Mine blew at an astounding 2000 RPM due to a timing and a fuel problem. I bitched about this from day one and the issue was never addressed and BOOM. Gone now. Anybody thinking of dealing with an email tune, DON'T DO IT!! It is not worth it. I learned the hard way. I guess if you have a no-brainer VERY common and predictable combo, it may be ok, but stay away from custom tunes. Go to a chassis dyno where you can deal with problems on the spot and work through them and KNOW you've got it handled when you're done. Mine ran like crap from day one actually. Once it is sorted out, I think it will be good, but that seems a long way off right now.
but i will say the car just dynoed and made 500lbrwtq @2000rpms ,and after messing with it on the way home and what not,it was a beast !! it showed me everything i needed to see to wanna rebuild it again. when the wrecker truck pulled into my yard my friend and brother were standing in the yard .they said all they could see was teeth i had the biggest smile on my face! my friend said"dude you just blew it up how can you smile right now!" i answered back my exact words"that ************ was so fast!!" it was unfortunate at the time but this time around i am not going to be denied,i am going to take the car to another level,i have done my homework and it will be better than ever performance and looks
Last edited by the12fast4u; 06-17-2010 at 08:05 AM.
#9251
06-17-2010, 08:09 AM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 9,865
the12fast4u and horsepla2000:
you guys both went with 5.4 SC setups from lightnings correct? obviously not untuned, but with bad tunes? and are both down now?
WOW!
I just got my xcal2 tune from Tuners Inc here in florida. (SCT dealer/trainer) I have a 93 octane and a stock config. (both setup for the 5.4L) Im gonna try this out for a bit then take it back for some tweaking. Although my setup is as stock as can be!!!
Just curious as to where the complications came from in the tune... too much spark? not enough fuel? or undetermined?
Good luck with the rebuilds.
you guys both went with 5.4 SC setups from lightnings correct? obviously not untuned, but with bad tunes? and are both down now?
WOW!
I just got my xcal2 tune from Tuners Inc here in florida. (SCT dealer/trainer) I have a 93 octane and a stock config. (both setup for the 5.4L) Im gonna try this out for a bit then take it back for some tweaking. Although my setup is as stock as can be!!!
Just curious as to where the complications came from in the tune... too much spark? not enough fuel? or undetermined?
Good luck with the rebuilds.
I have 404$ to use at summit racing in returns from parts that i got that were defective or that I decided not to use. I can't get the money back in cash and use it at MHS or a similar place because some people bought the parts for me with their credit and debit cards so itd be an exchange. I want to put the money towards cams they have comp cams, trickflow, and crane cams. They have a small selection i wanted to know what cam would be the best grind. I would pay the difference of the money out of pocket for the difference of cams, valve springs, timing chain and degree kit, cam gears and all gaskets. Just looking for someone to point me in the right direction
Comp 102700's are the best cam that summit has but there are LOTS better cams out there that are less radical (Modularheadshop.com, cushman, hi-tech, etc...). You'll need new springs for sure with that comp, it's the xe278. I'd also get a new set of guides and chains if you didn't when you got the motor originally.
yes mine drove like stock until you went wot and it was insane,i had fuel system technical problems thats why mine checked out.but the tuner should and could have spotted the problem easy,as rick at amazon did for my friend with his car,not sure what went wrong on horses car but im not big on mailout tunes,my **** is gonna be strapped down and tailored for my car and its needs on the spot
Rick at Amazon did mine and it WAS ALL SCREWED UP from day one!! I have a problem on my end with fuel pressure BUT it is ONLY A PROBLEM AT WOT and I knew that, so I didn't go WOT. Mine blew at an astounding 2000 RPM due to a timing and a fuel problem. I bitched about this from day one and the issue was never addressed and BOOM. Gone now. Anybody thinking of dealing with an email tune, DON'T DO IT!! It is not worth it. I learned the hard way. I guess if you have a no-brainer VERY common and predictable combo, it may be ok, but stay away from custom tunes. Go to a chassis dyno where you can deal with problems on the spot and work through them and KNOW you've got it handled when you're done. Mine ran like crap from day one actually. Once it is sorted out, I think it will be good, but that seems a long way off right now.
On my front, i got my nitrous kit all mocked up, looks like I need a new tomahawk nozzle from dynotunenitrous.com. I'm putting the fogger nozzle where the IAT sensor is on 96-01 cars in the inlet pipe just after the MAF. It's a convenient spot and I don't want to have to weld on my new spectre pipe to seal the hole just to drill another one in a less convenient to reach spot. Starting with a 125 shot. I don't know if the car will even hold traction with that on the street.
Now, I could be convinced to make my prototype internal nitrous kit for the HPS intake IIIIIF someone can either make for me or help me find a pair of 9" long spray bars. In years of work on it I've never been able to source a spray bar that narrow or long with that many holes in it that are that small. It'll run the length of the HPS intake and spray upward. I've intended it to feed from the rear so if you place your solenoids carefully nobody would ever be able to tell you had juice.
Last edited by r3dn3ck; 06-17-2010 at 12:55 PM.
#9252
06-17-2010, 08:38 AM
that sounds badass red,i thought about something similar for the L intake,on the lower back where the hole is,nobody would ever know. i know a guy that could do it,but i need a pic of the design your looking for,so he knows exactly what you want
#9253
06-18-2010, 05:10 AM
It's really hard to tune a car with an exotic setup from remote. I only recommend mail order tunes as a crutch to get you to a dyno shop. Especially for those folks that had prior tunes that are just not compatible with their new setups. Horspla has some skills in the area and probably was trying to save the dyno cash which I might have done myself... it just didn't work out well for him. I don't know what went on between him and Rick but obviously quite a bit of back and forth failed to fix it.
TB, 75mm. Brand... meh. Pro-Prod sucks.
Comp 102700's are the best cam that summit has but there are LOTS better cams out there that are less radical (Modularheadshop.com, cushman, hi-tech, etc...). You'll need new springs for sure with that comp, it's the xe278. I'd also get a new set of guides and chains if you didn't when you got the motor originally.
ditto. I put a startup tune on the car, had Rick get me a driving tune, then got a dyno tune, then got a better dyno tune.
you're pretty hard on the man... there were 2 people involved. I'd thought you had no local dyno tuners.
On my front, i got my nitrous kit all mocked up, looks like I need a new tomahawk nozzle from dynotunenitrous.com. I'm putting the fogger nozzle where the IAT sensor is on 96-01 cars in the inlet pipe just after the MAF. It's a convenient spot and I don't want to have to weld on my new spectre pipe to seal the hole just to drill another one in a less convenient to reach spot. Starting with a 125 shot. I don't know if the car will even hold traction with that on the street.
Now, I could be convinced to make my prototype internal nitrous kit for the HPS intake IIIIIF someone can either make for me or help me find a pair of 9" long spray bars. In years of work on it I've never been able to source a spray bar that narrow or long with that many holes in it that are that small. It'll run the length of the HPS intake and spray upward. I've intended it to feed from the rear so if you place your solenoids carefully nobody would ever be able to tell you had juice.
TB, 75mm. Brand... meh. Pro-Prod sucks.
Comp 102700's are the best cam that summit has but there are LOTS better cams out there that are less radical (Modularheadshop.com, cushman, hi-tech, etc...). You'll need new springs for sure with that comp, it's the xe278. I'd also get a new set of guides and chains if you didn't when you got the motor originally.
ditto. I put a startup tune on the car, had Rick get me a driving tune, then got a dyno tune, then got a better dyno tune.
you're pretty hard on the man... there were 2 people involved. I'd thought you had no local dyno tuners.
On my front, i got my nitrous kit all mocked up, looks like I need a new tomahawk nozzle from dynotunenitrous.com. I'm putting the fogger nozzle where the IAT sensor is on 96-01 cars in the inlet pipe just after the MAF. It's a convenient spot and I don't want to have to weld on my new spectre pipe to seal the hole just to drill another one in a less convenient to reach spot. Starting with a 125 shot. I don't know if the car will even hold traction with that on the street.
Now, I could be convinced to make my prototype internal nitrous kit for the HPS intake IIIIIF someone can either make for me or help me find a pair of 9" long spray bars. In years of work on it I've never been able to source a spray bar that narrow or long with that many holes in it that are that small. It'll run the length of the HPS intake and spray upward. I've intended it to feed from the rear so if you place your solenoids carefully nobody would ever be able to tell you had juice.
Well, I am very frustrated bec. I called him back immediately and tried to address the TERRIBLE part throttle hesitation, which he never addressed. I made several datalogs and spent several hours jumping through hoops and red tape, just to try to get it resolved. I understand it is a process, but he kept ignoring the problem. I was trying my hardest to AVOID exactly what happened. I know these stock rods and pistons leave a lot to be desired as far as performance goes, but it cut loose at 2000 RPM!! Who blows an engine at 2000 RPM!!?? It was 100% the fault of the tune. After several calls/complaints and all of the above, and I still blew it, yes, you can say I'm not happy. Does that make you understand more?? You'd have to know all the details, but trust me, I went above and beyond to try to make this happen, and ended up junking it anyway. I even spend almost $300 on a wideband just to try to get that in the log, too. I now know, based on the experience that I now have, that I should have never done it. The real bitch is, there is a dyno shop less than 20 miles from my house, and they're an SCT dealer, which is what I have. Rick told me that I would be good to go, and this wouldn't be hard to do. SO I spent the $ and went with it....WRONG!! Oh well............upgrade coming soon (just a lot sooner than I wanted it to)
By the time that the writing was on the wall that this just wasn't gonna happen, I already had so much time and $$ invested that I couldn't back out. Needless to say, I will be going to the chassis dyno when I get it back together. Pics coming later today
#9254
06-18-2010, 05:56 AM
Tuners can't "tune away" mechanical issues. Not saying what your was, but if you had a bad maf, cam position sensor, etc.... complaining to the tuner isn't going to fix anything. Was the problem the tune? Certainly could have been but something would have to be really off like the wrong maf transfer function or wrong injector size to have such terrible part throttle response. Could also very well be a mechanical issue that a remote tuner can do nothing to diagnose....
#9255
06-18-2010, 06:07 AM
All the correct info was given on MAF and injector sizes etc. PLUS a good tuner could/should spot a problem in the datalog. Transfer function etc. should be setup by him as needed. Mechanical problem, no. I did have a fuel pressure problem at WOT and I knew it, so I was addressing that and did not go WOT. I was over it and over it and trust me, it was 100% the fault of the tune that this happened. Look at the circumstances. I ran this engine for 2 years, THEN added the supercharger and supporting mods. It ran real good before, now problems.
#9257
06-18-2010, 07:20 AM
Here's my plan as of now............New Ford Racing block (known good, no machine work needed, perfectly sized bores, line bore, new freeze plugs etc. etc and can't beat the price), hopefully one of my cranks at least is good and hopefully it is factory forged steel, machine crank if needed, TMD H-beam rods, probe pistons, ARP throughout and HOPE my heads are ok. Red, do you think Trick Flows on this would be worth the $$$?? It'll never see the high side of 6K. If my heads are hurt, I may think real hard about just getting them while I'm at it so I don't have to go back later. I have Patriot stage II's now.
Last edited by horspla2000; 06-18-2010 at 09:18 AM.
#9258
06-18-2010, 07:50 AM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 9,865
According to desktop dyno, a fat cam is worth more than an upgrade to the heads over your Patriot II's. My gut says that head flow matters a lot more than that on a blower motor but desktop dyno says about 50hp difference between your existing heads and TFS heads almost regardless of the cam, which you can easily make up with more boost or more efficient intercooling.
If you have stock PI cams, get as fat a cam as you can deal with. MHS stage 3 blower cam looks juicy.
If you have stock PI cams, get as fat a cam as you can deal with. MHS stage 3 blower cam looks juicy.
#9259
06-18-2010, 07:58 AM
I've got Comp cams 270's. Run some sims if you would. I have a Accufab SBTB and plenum, port matched L lower, L supercharger non-ported, JBA shorties and you should know the rest by now I'll bet. 12#'s of boost
Last edited by horspla2000; 06-18-2010 at 08:01 AM.
#9260
06-18-2010, 08:51 AM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 9,865
From what you have to a full house stage 3.5 MHS TFS cam + as-cast TFS heads, 8.7:1 compression and maintaining your 12psi (you'll need a bigger lower pulley) is worth about 60-80hp over what you have now.
Best advice from the simulator (keep in mind this is a sim) is: MHS 3.5 tfs cam set retarded 2 degrees, tfs heads, 8.7:1, 15-16psi. Should be good for 5500-6000rpm peak hp, peak tq is still at 3000 though. It's as far as I'd take a street car but damn you should see the BIG FAT curves. It crosses 500bhp at 3300rpm and tips over 700bhp at 5200. Peak engine tq over 800lbs flywheel at 3000rpm. You'll need the fuel system upgraded and you'll want to think about the tranny.
Best advice from the simulator (keep in mind this is a sim) is: MHS 3.5 tfs cam set retarded 2 degrees, tfs heads, 8.7:1, 15-16psi. Should be good for 5500-6000rpm peak hp, peak tq is still at 3000 though. It's as far as I'd take a street car but damn you should see the BIG FAT curves. It crosses 500bhp at 3300rpm and tips over 700bhp at 5200. Peak engine tq over 800lbs flywheel at 3000rpm. You'll need the fuel system upgraded and you'll want to think about the tranny.
#9261
06-18-2010, 09:12 AM
Yeah, that's way more than I want/need! It's a convertible, too, so that would be an issue. Actually, All I'm interested in doing is maxing out the Cobra pump/stock FPDM limit then calling it good. I don't really want to mess with the big fuel systems etc. I'm more interested in a daily driveable, reliable, make-the-most-power-I-can kinda thing and still use pump gas and be able to go anywhere with no worries. The only reason I even brought up the heads is bec. mine may be junktified and if I'm gonna buy some new heads, I may as well get TFS. I just thought that since I am peaking in the 5500-5700 RPM range, that the heads may not be worth the $$. I thought the TFs really shined in the upper RPM range, where I really won't be going. I'll get it apart and see what it looks like and go from there.
Last edited by horspla2000; 06-18-2010 at 09:16 AM.
#9262
06-18-2010, 04:46 PM
I'm in need of an oil filter mount from a 2v, anybody have an extra? My 3v had the p.s. pump mounted up on the cylinder head which caused all kinds of fitment problems. I found that an F250 3v had the p.s. pump mounted low like the 2v, so I ordered a new timing cover so I can move mine back down. Now I just need an oil filter mount. 
I've got a Ford reman shortblock on the way (only $1023 w/ core) and my heads are in transit to Kris Starnes Racing for a full port & polish. Hopefully I'll be putting it back together in about 3 weeks.
I've got a Ford reman shortblock on the way (only $1023 w/ core) and my heads are in transit to Kris Starnes Racing for a full port & polish. Hopefully I'll be putting it back together in about 3 weeks.
#9264
06-18-2010, 07:57 PM
I'm gonna be gone for a week on vacation, will arrange payment when I return.
#9265
06-18-2010, 11:44 PM
From what you have to a full house stage 3.5 MHS TFS cam + as-cast TFS heads, 8.7:1 compression and maintaining your 12psi (you'll need a bigger lower pulley) is worth about 60-80hp over what you have now.
Best advice from the simulator (keep in mind this is a sim) is: MHS 3.5 tfs cam set retarded 2 degrees, tfs heads, 8.7:1, 15-16psi. Should be good for 5500-6000rpm peak hp, peak tq is still at 3000 though. It's as far as I'd take a street car but damn you should see the BIG FAT curves. It crosses 500bhp at 3300rpm and tips over 700bhp at 5200. Peak engine tq over 800lbs flywheel at 3000rpm. You'll need the fuel system upgraded and you'll want to think about the tranny.
Best advice from the simulator (keep in mind this is a sim) is: MHS 3.5 tfs cam set retarded 2 degrees, tfs heads, 8.7:1, 15-16psi. Should be good for 5500-6000rpm peak hp, peak tq is still at 3000 though. It's as far as I'd take a street car but damn you should see the BIG FAT curves. It crosses 500bhp at 3300rpm and tips over 700bhp at 5200. Peak engine tq over 800lbs flywheel at 3000rpm. You'll need the fuel system upgraded and you'll want to think about the tranny.
so 700 hp and 800 tq with the eaton??? maybe the eaton is better than i thought! i was gonna upgrade to kenne bell but maybe i wont have to.
#9266
06-19-2010, 06:59 AM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 9,865
remember those are brake numbers not rear wheel numbers. Rear wheel is minus 18% as a rule of thumb for the roots blower. That would work out to 560ish rwhp and 6xx rwtq.
Note guys, I have a oil filter mount for 2v if anyone needs one, just like morgan, price is shipping.
I talked to bob. the foundry caused a little hiccup with the shipping of the intakes to the machine shop but they did arrive and are being machined. I get mine shipped out Monday.
BTW... may be making another run of oil air separator kits. Anyone want one? NA kits are 125-ish shipped, centri/turbo kits are 270 shipped. Roots/Twin-screw kits are the same as NA kits usually.
Note guys, I have a oil filter mount for 2v if anyone needs one, just like morgan, price is shipping.
I talked to bob. the foundry caused a little hiccup with the shipping of the intakes to the machine shop but they did arrive and are being machined. I get mine shipped out Monday.
BTW... may be making another run of oil air separator kits. Anyone want one? NA kits are 125-ish shipped, centri/turbo kits are 270 shipped. Roots/Twin-screw kits are the same as NA kits usually.
#9267
06-19-2010, 03:30 PM
Hey guys I'm trying to finish my swap up. Is it normal for me to have to grind away part of the pass side exhaust flange where the mid pipe bolts to the manifold? Its hitting the frame keeping me from slideing over the studs. Also it looks as if the manifolds flange on the pass side is touching the frame but I can't move the motor anymore to the drivers side. I am using solid motor mounts so if its touching will that be an issue with heat on the paint? Hope to have this thing fired up next weekend.
Also I'm using -8an and -6an braided nylon fuel line with fragola push-lite 3000 series fittings. Anyone have some helpful tips for pushing these bastards in? Because I can muscle them in till theres about 1/8" left to go. I'm sure it will hold with only 1/8" to go but it just doesn't look clean.
Also I'm using -8an and -6an braided nylon fuel line with fragola push-lite 3000 series fittings. Anyone have some helpful tips for pushing these bastards in? Because I can muscle them in till theres about 1/8" left to go. I'm sure it will hold with only 1/8" to go but it just doesn't look clean.
#9268
06-19-2010, 05:56 PM
yeah you have to grind on the manifold and I had to grind on the mid-pipe flange too.
I'm using stainless hose but try alittle vaseline.
I'm using stainless hose but try alittle vaseline.
Last edited by Morgan The Black; 06-19-2010 at 05:59 PM.
#9269
06-20-2010, 07:56 AM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 9,865
push lok fittings are a bitch... vaseline and elbow grease. You should also try dipping the end in very hot water prior to slipping it over the fitting barb. between the vaseline and the heat it should be a lot easier. I use all reusable fittings and teflon core hose anymore because it's so much easier to mess with the fittings. Even reusable fittnigs and rubber hose is easier than the push-lok type.
#9270
06-21-2010, 08:39 AM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Magrathea/California
Posts: 9,865
Talked to Bob. My intake should be done today. If you're needing an intake, give him a call this afternoon or tomorrow and you should be able to slap down the visa card.