dam cardude that is sweet!i wonder what it sounds like? the old saying is true there is no replacement for displacement!! i know that thing is gotta be nasty,the intake would have to go if it was mine! either custom sheetmetal or whipple,either way thats cool thats the 3rd v10 mustang i have seen

 

car-part.com for a block
MMR does farm out the machining (be glad for that)
They do their own assembly AFAIK
They assembled mine.
Their bargain shortblocks are filled with bargain parts. MMR rods appear to be 3D rods like those that TMD sells (same as in my engine). They use clevite tri-metal bearings which I hate. As an assembly service they were slow, and they left the reluctor wheel off my crankshaft. I give them a solid B

Balance shaft is less than ideal in a performance engine. otherwise, that's something you'll want a 9" ford rear end backing up. 8.8 will frag.

Sounds a bit like a viper. I almost did a v10 swap originally but the lack of cams, intake, heads, headers, etc... made the 5.4 an easier step to take.

 

K... got my CAI setup pretty much nailed and then found out I'm fucked again.

My new dog snuck into my garage, found the stock MAF I've been looking for for months and then chewed it to a ******* pulp. All I found was a bunch of pieces and a sensor block that looks like it was put through a super-blend-o-matic 4000.

Does anyone have a 6 wire maf sensor element (02-04gt's and cobras had them) I can buy off you?

in any case, I now have my 78mm TB plugged into an 88mm inlet pipe which plugs into my 90mm MAF. I figure easing up the inlet path should hopefully be worth a bit.

My old setup was a stock 80mm maf, plugged into a 76mm pipe and into a 75mm TB (which was truly 73mm at the narrowest). Dan already noted in his earliest experiments that 80mm MAF's have air moving through them at 100mph+ when a 5.4 is sucking on them. I'm hoping that the car was corked on inlet side during the last dyno run. It'd be really nice to see maybe 305rwhp... then at least I'd have more than 300 regardless of how much more. Also putting my nitrous kit on the car since nobody wants it. Going to set it up for 150hp. I'll have my 415rwhp/600+rwtq yet.

 

I found another intriguing option. SHM has a new 2010 Raptor 5.4 3v for sale as they dropped a GT500 setup into the truck. That would give me a brand new factory engine that would be here in a week or so... Might drop some FRPP Hot Rod cams on top but factory fresh and all sealed up is pretty attractive...

 

Howdy guys

I was referred by r3d to post up my swap ideas/thoughts.

I do want to build a motor as soon as I am set on what to build. Looking for a badass street car with visits to the track.

Anywho, looks like the 5.4 could be a very, very possible swap to put in the car, but I was concerned about using my vortech setup. I don't see a bracket anywhere that would work in my case, so I'm guessing a custom unit would be in order? or perhaps I could engineer some mods to my current bracket if I could see what issues it would have. What ideas do you guys have for me?

 

Dan: the 5.4 3v is just a stock replacement for your old motor right? Does that do what you wanted it to? With proper cams you can make really good power on even stock 3v heads.

 

When the 3v spun a bearing right away I had kinda decided to just drop a 2v back in the truck. I let it sit long enough to figure out since I've got the details all figured out the smartest thing to do is just keep it 3v. I had decided to sell the truck months ago and even bought a car, but have since changed my mind back to keeping the truck (and therefore have to sell and lose money on the car....ugh...). So, yes its a replacement for the 3v I just pulled out. I mainly just want something fresh and reliable for multiple years, so brand new factory built is perfect. Bone stock with all my supporting mods and the IMRC removed I would hope for ~285/340 at the wheels, with cams maybe 300/320 with a lot better pull up top. That'll do just fine, I don't want to make a ton more of I have to start worrying about my 4R70W.

 

given that, the SHM pulled 3v sounds like it's the perfect answer to an otherwise niggly problem.

 

I put a whipple on an 06 GT at work.............check it out............http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZhR3Y4gtQA

 

awesome!!!!

 

How is the engine management handled with the V10? Do you use the truck PCM or can you modify the Mustang PCM to run an additional 2 cylinders?

 

from what I recall (could be completely wrong since I never went very far toward the v10 route) the motor wire harness needs swapped but the stock ECU IIRC can handle 10 cyls. If nothing else a ford truck ECU or a standalone would also work.

 

Im going to have to keep my eyes out at the local yard this weekend for $300 bucks for a complete motor i might just have to open a hole nother can of worms and get stoopid with this car...

Bone stock v10 with 150 Kit would put that motor in the 460-480 HP Range and the 575-600 Ft-Lb Range...

Thats enough to put a car like mine into the 10.6-10.8 range at speeds up to 125+ in the 1320...

What can a STOCK bottom end of that motor take, its the same Bore X Stroke as a 5.4 motor.. So revving it to 5500 might be the limmit...

 

Swapping a V-10 sounds like an interesting project.

Back in 2000 I was in New Mexico and ran across a 1961 T-bird that was for sale. It had one of my all-time favorite Ford engines; the FE 390, but the factory compression was high back then and the eninge may not have lasted long on modern fuels with the softer valves/valve seats.

I considered swapping in a V-10 if I bought the car. The 39 year-old FE motor still purred like a little kitten and idled very smooth and still didn't have a lot of miles on it (I think the car had been a garage queen over the years). I had access to a V-10 and was willing to try it.

The V-10 would've fit perfectly (I mean PERFECTLY) in that engine bay and would've no doubt created one slick Bird indeed. I think it would've been the perfect project. The owner decided not to sell it at the last minute. Absolutely bummed me out !!!

 

watch this V-10 Mustang..........http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92qNG6syZkI

 

now if someone would make a v-10 4 valve head it would be a bad *** engine. im a 2v guy myself but if the pi's are killing our air flow then imagine what is does to that thing!

 

Anybody KNOW at what HP level Cobra pumps run out and/or max out the fuel line size etc. etc. I have a bad fuel pressure dropoff at WOT and I don't think I should be anywhere near maxing anything I have out. I have the stock L fuel rail, twin Cobra pump setup in a GT tank (it is NOT a fuel slosh problem) It is a 2000 GT and they have puny 5/16 fuel line, but I cant see that being the issue at my HP level. My FP drops off from 40 to 25-28 w/in 1 second of hitting WOT. Do I need a BAP?? HELP! getting frustrated here.................................

 

Did you upgrade the wiring to the FPDM and pumps? You should be good to just about 500rw with twin Termy pumps but that depends on a lot of things. Figure at 450rwhp you should really start thinking about more fuel supply or larger lines. I think larger lines from tank to rail will help you max out your fuel system as it stands.

 

[quote=horspla2000;459819]Anybody KNOW at what HP level Cobra pumps run out and/or max out the fuel line size etc. etc. I have a bad fuel pressure dropoff at WOT and I don't think I should be anywhere near maxing anything I have out. I have the stock L fuel rail, twin Cobra pump setup in a GT tank (it is NOT a fuel slosh problem) It is a 2000 GT and they have puny 5/16 fuel line, but I cant see that being the issue at my HP level. My FP drops off from 40 to 25-28 w/in 1 second of hitting WOT. Do I need a BAP?? HELP! getting frustrated here.................................[/quote

my friend has an 03 gt,i did a 03 cobra conversion swap on it changed motor transmission,ecm,gauge cluster,its a complete cobra conversion,except for the tank same as you gt tank and twin cobra pumps,took it to rick at amazon to get it tuned and pulley ,also has a ported steigmeier on it,no fuel pump driver or boost a pump on it,car made 478 rwhp,426 rwtrq and rick said the pumps were at 98%cycle duty,he said cobra or zone 5 fuel pump driver and boost a pump was needed if he wanted to make anymore power,im going with glenn's performance return style fuel system,to me a bap is a bandaid fix im want a system i will never out grow. heres a pic of the gt/cobra on the dyno

 

Cool, I am working with Rick on this tune and we are having headaches with a few things. I just got done doing some testing. I put a PVT (pressure and vacuum transducer) in at the outlet of the fuel filter and measured the pressure when I get on it. From the experience I have with this thing so far, I KNOW the FP drops off BAD at WOT at the rail, by watching the FRP. Well, I had 72 PSI at the outlet of the filter, meaning the driver module is doing its job, as are the pumps. SO, I traced the fuel line back to front to make sure there were no kinks etc. (this car has been wrecked before I got it) and I found nothing. Moral of the story, it must be a problem with my custom made fuel rail. I'll have to figure something out there.
Red, to answer your question, I have the stock FPDM (same part number as 03-04 Cobra) and stock wiring and I'm using Cobra twin pumps in a GT tank with no baffle. I have done all my testing with a full tank. I am using the SCT programmer with Livelink and I have made several datalogs. I have an Autometer wideband and I datalog that as well. I shouldn't even be close to maxing out anything with the setup I have, I now know that. I need to come up with a way to make a better fuel rail, returnless style that will fit on the L lower intake. Thanks for the help.

 

Hey 12fast, did that GT have the stock tank to rail fuel line and was it 5/16?? That is what I have and it seems small. but Rick said it shouldn't be an issue with where I'm at. Just curious cuz if he made that power with that puny 5?16 line, i have no worries!

 

im not sure what size his line is we didnt change them whatever the factory line measures is what his is

 

Cool, that should be the 5/16" then. Just trying to decide how to handle this and gather info. Thanks.

 

anytime

 

Heres what the TT kit with 5.4 plates looks like. I was worried about my FORE fuel rails fitting, but theres TONs of room for any fuel rail. Only problem I have is the water temp sensor needs to be moved so I have a little plugging and tapping to do.

 

that engine is looking nicer and nicer

 

That looks GREAT !!!

I love those valve covers. Are those aftermarket ... and if so which manufacturer ???

I need a set of those in Dark Highland Green ...

 

Their TrickFlow valve covers that started out bare AL then powercoated a chrome'ish color which was just a type of silver then two coats candy red.

 

post pic of fuel rails and the interface to the hardline. I didn't want to call your craftsmanship into question since it looked so purdy but maybe I'll see something I didn't see last time.


Speaking of fuel rails, here's my fuel rails with injectors and the fuel tap for the nitrous kit installed. You can see the solenoids and fogger nozzle in the background too. Crappy pic, I'll take a better one later. Flat black enamel so far. The feed line and the crossover line are -8. I have my hardline attached via -6 to a Trick Flow 10 micron inline filter that connects to the -8 feed line. Since the FRPS is at the end of the circuit and there's soooo much volume in the lines and rails I'm not really worried about pulsing pressure or low pressure at the end of the driver side rail.

 

here you go